How To Visit Lausanne, A Beautiful Lakeside City In French-Speaking Switzerland
Published December 7, 2023
One of the coolest things about Switzerland is that it’s incredibly multicultural and multilingual! The country has four national languages, and each one embodies its own region and heritage within Swiss society. I recently visited the French-speaking part of Switzerland for the first time. On this trip, my main destination was the city of Lausanne.
Travelers who are planning a getaway to Lausanne will find a serene city on the northern shore of Lake Geneva (also known as Lac Léman). Lausanne is about an hour away from Geneva by train, so it’s by no means remote. With that said, Lausanne is not extremely touristy. It offers the perfect balance between urban amenities and authentic local experiences.
What put Lausanne on my radar, you ask? Well, two friends from college moved to this area about a year ago. When I reached out to Wyatt and Abbey to ask if they wanted to get together for the week of Thanksgiving, they agreed! I’m so thankful to both of them for being amazing hosts and providing tons of great tips! Most of what’s featured below are things they recommended.
This blog post is broken down into the following topics. To skip down to any particular section, click or tap on the corresponding link!
Basic Information About Lausanne
Lausanne has a population of about 150,000 residents. This makes it either the fourth- or fifth-largest city in Switzerland (smaller than Zürich, Geneva, and Basel; roughly the same size as Bern, the country’s capital). It’s pretty quaint and compact, but there’s no shortage of things to see and do in town!
As mentioned above, Lausanne sits on the north side of the incredibly idyllic Lac Léman in southwest Switzerland. Geography is one of the city’s main draws. The lake’s clear blue water is absolutely gorgeous!
Lausanne is also known for its hills. Walking from the lakefront up to Cathédrale de Lausanne (Lausanne Cathedral) in the center of town is a bit of a workout. Luckily, a metro system runs right along this route! In fact, Lausanne is currently the smallest city in the world with a metro system! Take full advantage of Switzerland’s famous public transit infrastructure while you’re here.
In terms of language, French is what you’ll generally hear on the streets of Lausanne. However, I found that almost everyone I interacted with was proficient in English. Most signage and written text around the city is in French, but many restaurants had bilingual or trilingual menus. The museum I visited had bilingual placards. In short, I didn’t encounter any major struggles to communicate.
Things to Do in Lausanne
I’m happy to report that Lausanne is not a city where you have to rush from one attraction to another. It’s more atmospheric. My days here were spent leisurely exploring various neighborhoods on foot while admiring the sights and sounds. Since Lausanne is built on a hillside, there are lots of great places to enjoy panoramic views of Lake Geneva! With that in mind, below are some activities to do in town.
The Lakefront in Ouchy
This is Lausanne’s central waterfront district. In Ouchy (pronounced “oo-she”) you’ll find restaurants, fancy-looking hotels, and excellent views of the lake. The town’s main ferry terminal is also located in this area. It provides service to a few towns in France on the other side such as Évian-les-Bains and Thonon-les-Bains.
Église Saint-François and Place Saint-François
Address (of the church): Pl. Saint-François, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.sainf.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Sainf
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eglisesaintfrancois/
Lausanne has two major churches in the city center: Église Saint-François and Cathédrale de Lausanne. The former is closer to the lake than the latter. Église Saint-François has a distinctive pale-green spire surrounded by four smaller spikes of the same shade, so the church’s tower really stands out among the city’s rooftops.
When I entered the Saint-François Church to see the sanctuary, some musicians were rehearsing for a concert. The website also suggests that this is a popular venue for classical music performances.
In terms of the interior, the most noteworthy thing about the Église Saint-François is its ceiling. It’s got these incredibly intricate designs and patterns! This church’s original structure was built in the 13th century, but the inside was modernized in 2011. I’d say it was done in a really elegant and tasteful way that doesn’t feel at odds with the exterior.
After checking out the inside of Église Saint-François, hang out for a bit in “Place Saint-François,” the little plaza next to the church. It functions as one of Lausanne’s main town squares, and it’s surrounded by other interesting buildings.
Cathédrale de Lausanne
Address: Pl. de la Cathédrale 1, 1005 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cathedrale-lausanne.ch/accueil/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cathedrale.de.lausanne/
Located a little further up the hill, the Lausanne Cathedral is arguably the city’s architectural centerpiece. It towers over everything else and is visible from various neighborhoods. Cathédrale de Lausanne and Église Saint-François have similarly designed spires, but this one is red. One major difference between the two churches is that you can climb the tower at the Cathédrale de Lausanne.
I highly recommend you ascend the tower here for some fabulous 360-degree views of the city and the lake. Much of the viewing platform is open to the air, so the wind was howling fiercely when I went up. It was worth it though! Even with a freezing wind chill, I stayed up here for quite a while to appreciate Lausanne’s stunning cityscape with the lake in the background.
Tour de Sauvabelin (Sauvabelin Tower)
Address: Sauvabelin, 1018 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://tour-de-sauvabelin.ch/
Coming all the way out to this wooden tower with a helical staircase was a bit of an adventure. It’s on the far edge of town, even further inland than the Cathédrale de Lausanne. To get here, I took the Lausanne Metro to the “Sallaz” stop and then walked the rest of the way. I was able to navigate it on Google Maps. You should know that it’s basically a wooded trail with some stairs, not a city street you’ll be walking along.
The stroll through the forest was enchanting in the middle of November, with the autumn leaves ablaze in bright reds and oranges! This was the best spot I discovered in Lausanne for fall colors.
When I approached the actual tower, I was excited to climb it. Unfortunately, it was closed (I think for the winter season). There’s an automated turnstile that lets you in once you pay, and it was locked up. Luckily, the scenic hike here made up for that slight disappointment.
Even from the base of Tour de Sauvabelin, you’ll be treated to some views of the city below. I personally found Lausanne Cathedral’s tower to be more impressive than this area. That’s because the church is right in the middle of the historic center, and it’s closer to the lake. Since Tour de Sauvabelin is in the middle of the woods, the fall colors were the main attraction for me here.
Visit the "Collection de l'Art Brut"
Address: Av. Bergières 11, 1004 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CollectiondelArtBrutLausanne
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cablausanne/
Lausanne is home to a couple different museums, but without a doubt the most fascinating collection is the one featuring “art brut.” This is a term I had never heard of before coming to Lausanne, but it roughly translates to “raw art” or “rough art.” The English Wikipedia page calls it “outsider art.” All of these translations give some idea of what this genre is, but none of them really have that same bite to it as the original French term.
So, what is art brut? According to the museum website, “it is self-taught creators who produce Art Brut, people on the fringes of society who harbor a spirit of rebellion and tend to be impervious to collective standards and values.” You can read their entire definition here.
What stuck out to me as I was viewing the collection was this idea of artists on the fringes of society. Much of the work on display here was created by people who spent time in psychiatric hospitals and prisons. A lot of the art here was drawn or painted onto letters and envelopes. Perhaps that’s the only canvas some of these creators had access to while they were locked away.
Reading the bios in the museum will reveal that many of these artists faced significant trauma growing up. That pain and struggle is easy to see; grotesque and unsettling figures are common subjects in art brut. Most pieces here give a sense of unease and tension, even when they include bright colors or a smiling face.
The most impressive thing about the Collection de l’Art Brut is the fine, almost microscopic level of detail often present. This isn’t a massive, sprawling museum, so it’s possible to take a close look at the pieces that capture your attention without getting bogged down by the number of exhibits. Art brut represents raw, unfiltered human emotion. Its unconventional beauty is born out of incarceration, isolation, and ostracization. Don’t miss this incredible museum to see it for yourself!
Christmas Markets if You're Visiting in Winter!
Since I was in Lausanne in late November, Christmas markets were just getting started. They were set up in all of the town’s major public squares. I loved strolling through the rows of pop-up stores each day and buying a cup of “vin chaud” (hot wine) to sip on. These festive markets are also a great place to shop for gifts and souvenirs. They really put me in the holiday spirit!
Restaurants & Bars
I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised by Lausanne’s food scene. You won’t run out of local specialty dishes to try while you’re visiting! The city also has a nice selection of international cuisines to choose from.
Local Swiss Cuisine
Traditional plates in Vaud (the canton where Lausanne is located) seem to revolve around cheese, wine, seasonal produce, and meat. Two famous meals you won’t want to miss are raclette and fondue! Both are easy to find throughout this region. Below are some of the traditional Swiss restaurants I tried in Lausanne.
Vieil Ouchy
Address: Pl. du Port 3, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.vieilouchy.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vieilouchy
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vieilouchy/
Abbey and Wyatt recommended I try the fish at Vieil Ouchy. They serve perch directly from the lake (“filets de perches frais du lac Léman”). It’s a little pricey even by Swiss standards, but I felt like it was worth the splurge. The fish is cut up into small strips and served in a parsley cream sauce. It was light, fluffy, and easy to eat with no bones!
For dessert at Vieil Ouchy, I tried the “Meringues à la crème double de Gruyère.” A sign out front mentioned that this is one of their signature dishes, and it’s easy to see why! The crispness of the meringues complimented the richness of the Gruyère cream. It was also served with a few mixed berries on top, which provided just enough tartness to offset the sugar.
Café du Grütli
Address: Rue Mercerie 4, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cafedugruetli.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafegrutli
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafedugrutli_lausanne/
This is where we had our “Friendsgiving” dinner, and it was absolutely perfect! I’m going to be honest: fondue was such a better holiday meal than turkey. It’s a filling comfort food with a surprisingly complex flavor profile that is ideal for colder weather.
The interior of Café du Grütli feels like a ski lodge from another era. Pictured below is their second floor, which is where we were seated. The first floor dining room has a different theme, but it’s also quaint.
For those who’ve only had fondue in the US, the experience in Switzerland can be a little different. Authentic fondue here only entails a pot of melted cheese (not various courses of meat, soup, or chocolate). However, a plate of cured meat, pickles, and onions is served as an appetizer.
With the actual cheese pot, you get a basket of bread and a red and white bag of potatoes with a drawstring. It may not seem like much, but the cheese is so thick that it ends up being more than enough. Fondue is one of those meals where it’s almost impossible to stop eating, even as you can feel yourself getting increasingly full. It’s just that irresistible!
In terms of drinks, fondue goes well with white wine. And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can order a glass of kirsch! Also known as kirschwasser, this clear cherry brandy is often mixed in with the melted cheese (along with wine) to add additional flavors and aromas. If you order kirschwasser separately, it’ll come in a small glass. You can dip pieces of bread into the kirsch before soaking them in the cheese. This brandy is quite strong, so you only need a little bit! It’ll add a very distinct aftertaste to the bread that really warms the throat and chest.
Café de Grancy
Address: Av. du Rond-Point 1, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cafedegrancy.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CafedeGrancy
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafedegrancy_officiel/
Wyatt, Abbey, and I were lucky to be seated here for dinner on a Friday night without a reservation. That’s one thing to keep in mind for Lausanne, especially on the weekends. Popular restaurants fill up quickly, so a reservation a day in advance guarantees that you won’t be scrambling to find somewhere to eat.
At Café de Grancy, I ordered the “tartare de bœuf.” I am pretty sure this was the first time I’ve had steak tartare, and I generally liked it. It is raw minced beef, so I totally understand if that doesn’t appeal to you. I am a pretty adventurous eater, and Cafe de Grancy is known for their tartare. The flavor and texture of the beef reminded me of Hawaiian poke.
Pinte Besson
Address: Rue de l’Ale 4, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.pinte-besson.com/fr/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/PinteBesson
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/pintebesson/
This was a fun place to go for a traditional Swiss brunch of rösti. It’s similar to hash browns, but this potato-based dish is often served with egg, your choice of meat, and pickles. It definitely felt like a breakfast meal, but I’m told that Swiss people enjoy it throughout the day. Pinte Besson has an inviting patio outdoors and a low, curved ceiling inside, which makes it feel like a cozy little tavern.
Try Other "Cafés Historiques de Lausanne"
As it turns out, all four restaurants mentioned above are “cafés historiques de Lausanne.” This official designation given by the city recognizes these establishments as popular historic places to enjoy local flavors. If you’re looking for additional Swiss French dining options, check out the complete list of restaurants that have this distinction!
International Food
Lausanne’s international food scene consists mostly of cuisines from East Asia and other countries in Europe. The city seems to love ramen, hot pot, and other soup based dishes. In fact, hot pot is called “fondue chinoise,” so I think these dishes are popular because they’re similar to fondue and other Swiss meals.
Doki Doki
ドキドキ
Address: Av. du Tribunal-Fédéral 4, 1005 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://dokidoki-fc.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Doki-Doki/100051324954397/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dokidoki.ramen/
Abbey, Wyatt, and I all had our first dinner together at this ramen restaurant. I’m glad they recommended it! I wouldn’t call Doki Doki fusion, but I do feel like their menu offers a subtle Swiss-French twist on traditional Japanese cuisine. The ramen I ordered was spot on, with soft and tender chashu pork.
Be sure to save room for dessert at Doki Doki! The three of us split “cake maison au matcha” and a “boule de glace artisanale.” The matcha cake had chocolate chips in it, which is a winning combination I had never tried before. The ice cream was black sesame, and both treats had just enough sweetness to refresh my palate after a hot bowl of ramen.
Song Spécialités Chinois
宋
Address: CH, Rue du Petit-Chêne 22, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Towards the end of my trip, I was starting to crave some other cuisines besides Swiss. Song restaurant caught my eye, especially since their storefront had a sign that said “中国风味小馆.” I did a year of study abroad in China back in college, so I could tell that this place served authentic Chinese cuisine!
I’m glad I stepped in and tried their rice noodle soup. It was very satisfying! If you’ve had quite a bit of cheese-based Swiss cuisine and want to switch it up with something light and possibly spicy (you can add in chili oil to this soup if you want), Song is a great option!
Bar Gala
Address: Rue du Petit-Saint-Jean 7, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bar_gala_/
Bar Gala is a relatively new restaurant that specializes in top-notch Italian pasta and natural wine. Despite having a small menu (which might be rotating), all three of us couldn’t get over how delicious every appetizer and main plate was here. I got a putanesca dish that tasted like it came straight out of a nonna’s kitchen in Italy!
Even if you’re not familiar with natural wines, Bar Gala is a great place to try them for the first time. The service is excellent, and staff here should be able to help you pair wine offerings with food. Bar Gala is small, so a reservation beforehand is probably a good idea.
Coffee Options
Did I mention that Lausanne has a pretty vibrant coffee scene? I only got to try a few places, but I was pretty impressed with what I found!
Sleepy Bear Coffee Shop
Address: Rue du Simplon 3A, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://sleepybearcoffee.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Sleepybearcoffeelausanne/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sleepybearcoffee
You’ll find this cute little cafe close to the town’s main railway station, so it’s a perfect place to grab a coffee before going on a day trip by train. The oat milk latte I got at Sleepy Bear went well with a banana bread for a light breakfast.
Ça Passe Crème
Address: Bd de Grancy 49, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.capassecreme.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/capassecreme.ch
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/capassecreme.ch/
This popular spot has a name that references a colloquial French saying that means something like “to go smoothly.” I always love when coffee shops feel modern and bright but still draw from more traditional interior designs, and that was definitely the case at Ça Passe Crème. Even though it was a little busy, this was a comfortable and inviting place to sit and sip on a caffeinated beverage or two!
The baristas here did such a good job making my regular latte that I ended up ordering a second one! Since it was fall, I decided to try their take on pumpkin spice. It tasted like it was made with real pumpkin purée and was served with heavy cream on top.
Bars
Coffee Page
Address: Rue du Midi 20, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.coffee-page.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coffeepage_lausanne/
As its name suggests, Coffee Page serves coffee during the day. However, they also serve original and classic cocktails at night! We popped in one evening and tried a bunch of items from their drink menu. Everything was very tasty and easy to sip on, and the atmosphere in here was perfect for sitting and chatting without boisterous crowds or blasting music.
Bar Giraf
Address: Rue Pierre-Viret 6, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.vieux-lausanne.ch/bar-giraf
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BarGiraf/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/girafbar/
To mix things up a bit after a relaxing visit to Coffee Page, we walked over to Bar Giraf. Their motto is “Crowded Bar Since 1987.” I have to give them credit; it was indeed pretty crowded! Bar Giraf plays a lot of hits from the seventies and eighties, and the clientele here seemed a little older.
Snacks & Other Mentions
Hot Chocolate from Le Barbare
Address: Esc. du Marché 27, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.lebarbare.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeBarbareLausanne
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/le_barbare_lausanne/
If you’re looking to try one more “café historique,” Le Barbare is a great choice! They serve a lot of different food and drinks, but they’re known for their hot chocolate. It is fairly viscous with heavy cream on top. It’s honestly more of a dessert than anything else, perfect for mid-afternoon in between lunch and dinner. I had to share a table here because it was crowded when I went, but I didn’t mind at all. I was completely focused on how delectable this sweet treat was!
Swiss Chocolates from Blondel
Address: Rue de Bourg 5, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://blondel.ch/fr/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Blondel-Chocolaterie/100064374450659/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/blondel_chocolat/
Abbey recommended I do some souvenir shopping at Blondel, a Lausanne-based chocolate shop that isn’t a chain. Their store is busy and a little hectic, so I didn’t feel like I was able to really talk to the employees and get recommendations. With that said, I ordered two identical gift boxes: one for my dad for Christmas and one for myself.
I couldn’t see what was inside, but it ended up being a variety pack with a dozen different bonbons. Each one was phenomenal, and I’d say the assortment box is the way to go if you’re looking for a gift. Just beware that these high-end chocolates cost a pretty penny (or in this case, Franc). One box of a dozen cost over 30 USD as of November 2023!
Salée au Fromage from a Farmer's Market
One final food recommendation from Abbey and Wyatt that I never would’ve found on my own was a “salée au fromage.” We bought one of these savory cheese tarts at a weekend farmer’s market and split it because they’re very dense. It was a perfect little appetizer to enjoy before getting brunch. This might be a local Vaudoise pastry, but I’m not completely sure.
Day Trip Ideas
Switzerland’s phenomenal train system makes day trips from Lausanne very easy. I spent one day in Geneva at the beginning of my vacation and took one day to explore Château de Chillon, Montreux, and Vevey. Over the course of a week, I saw the entire north shore of Lac Léman from west to east.
Geneva
This historic city is famous for its massive Jet d’Eau fountain, ties to the United Nations, and financial sector. Geneva is absolutely worth visiting for a day, especially if you’re flying in or out of the airport here. Even if you’re not, Lausanne is only about an hour away by train.
I spent most of my time in Geneva walking around the waterfront, exploring the old town center, and admiring the flora at the Conservatoire et Jardin botaniques de Genève. This is also where I tried raclette!
Château de Chillon, Montreux, and Vevey
The stunning Château de Chillon is like something out of a dream or a watercolor painting! This castle is an incredible landmark that you must see if you’re staying in Lausanne. Like Geneva, Château de Chillon is also only about an hour away by train (but in the opposite direction). You can tour the interior and get lost in the labyrinth of different chambers, halls, and courtyards.
After visiting Château de Chillon, walk or take the train west to Montreux. It’s a summer resort destination with showy hotels on the water’s edge. And if you want to make one more detour on the way back to Lausanne, you can visit Vevey. This sleepy little town provides a better view of the mountains than Montreux does. I stopped here for a latte and a glass of wine right around sunset.
Other Day Trip Ideas
There are probably dozens of different day trips you could do while using Lausanne as a “home base.” In addition to the ones mentioned above, you could check out some other travel blogs that have written about:
- Cheesy Tips On Visiting Gruyères, Switzerland by Theresa at Hey, Traveler
- 10+ Things To Do In Evian-Les-Bains, France by Sonia at Happy Little Traveler
- 17 Top Sights & Best Things to Do in Bern, Switzerland by Jurga at Full Suitcase
Bon voyage à Lausanne !
Well, that’s about it from me! I hope that this blog post answered all your questions about visiting this gorgeous Swiss city. In some ways, Lausanne feels like a small town, especially along the lakefront and in parts of the historic center. Despite that, Lausanne offers amenities normally found in much larger cities. It really is a one-of-a-kind destination!
Do you have any questions or comments about this post? If you do, be sure to leave them for me below. Thanks for reading and see you next time!
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This post was published on Dec 7, 2023
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