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Exploring The Gothenburg Archipelago (Göteborgs Skärgård): A Visitor’s Guide

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Mon, 04 Aug 2025 17:00:00 +0000

Exploring The Gothenburg Archipelago (Göteborgs Skärgård): A Visitor’s Guide

Published August 4, 2025

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

On my recent trip to Sweden, I was blown away by the natural beauty of the Gothenburg Archipelago. It’s an idyllic island chain full of colorful fishing villages, beautiful rocky coastline, and short hikes that lead to breathtaking views. If you’re staying in the city of Gothenburg, taking a day trip to the archipelago is easy thanks to the metro area’s excellent public transit network. You can visit the Göteborgs Skärgård using a combination buses, trams, and ferries.

As shown in the map above, the Gothenburg Archipelago is located in the Kattegat (the small sea that separates Sweden from Denmark) directly west of Gothenburg city. The archipelago stretches from Björkö and Öckerö in the north down to Brännö and Vrångö in the south.

Because the Gothenburg Archipelago has two distinct sections, it’s often divided into a northern group (also called the Northern Gothenburg Archipelago, or “Göteborgs norra skärgård” in Swedish) and a southern group (also called the Southern Gothenburg Archipelago, or “Göteborgs södra skärgård”). This blog post will highlight most of the main islands in both groups.

To skip down to any particular topic in this post, click or tap the corresponding link below.

The Northern Group
The Southern Group

The Northern Group

Of the two island clusters that make up the Gothenburg Archipelago, the northern group is quieter and less touristy. On a map, it looks farther away from Gothenburg than the southern group. However, express buses allow travelers to get from the city center to the northern group in about an hour and a half.

One major difference between the two island clusters is that the Northern Gothenburg Archipelago allows cars, while the Southern Gothenburg Archipelago heavily restricts motor vehicle use. On the day that I visited the northern group, I explored the islands of Hönö, Fotö, and Öckerö entirely on foot. Needless to say, it was a lot of walking. For visitors who don’t want to be on their feet all day, a few local bus routes serve the Northern Gothenburg Archipelago. Read more about them here.

Hönö

Hönö is arguably the main island in the northern group, and it’s the first one you’ll step foot on if you take the ferry from Lilla Varholmen. The island of Hönö is mostly residential.

Klåvan

I spent much of my time on Hönö wandering from the ferry terminal in the northeast down to the village of Klåvan on the southwest shore. Klåvan is a bustling little hub for tourists that has numerous bars and restaurants, plus a local museum.

By this time, my stomach was rumbling, so I strolled up and down the main waterfront strip in Klåvan before settling on “Tullhuset Restaurang” for lunch.

Tullhuset Restaurang

Address: Västra Vägen 3, 475 42 Hönö, Sweden
Website: https://www.tullhuset.se/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Tullhuset/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/restaurang_tullhuset/

Lunch at this little bistro on Hönö was a culinary highlight of my entire Gothenburg trip! That’s because I got to try langoustines here. Also known as Norway lobsters, langoustines are a delicacy that I had never even heard of before visiting Sweden. They’re sort of like a mix between lobster and shrimp, but the shells are pretty tough.

I found the meat in the langoustines to be tender and not too fishy or salty. At least at Tullhuset Restaurang, they were served cold. The softest part of the langoustines is their claws, but because they’re so small, it’s difficult to get the meat out! The restaurant provided special utensils to break the shells and get the claw meat out, but it took some practice. Be careful as well of the sharp spines on the outside of the langoustines (especially on the underside). I accidentally pierced the skin on my thumb with one during this meal.

For my second course at Tullhuset, I ordered fish soup. Pairing this yellow stew with the langoustines as an appetizer made for a big meal, but I managed to finish all of it. The soup included white fish, crème fraîche, and saffron. It had a creamy texture and a pleasant, mild flavor.

Fotö

Fotö is the smallest island I visited in the northern group, and it’s located directly south of Hönö. The two are connected by a bridge that cars, pedestrians, and bikes can cross. As far as I can tell, the public ferry system does not have a terminal on Fotö, so the bridge is the only way to get there. One of the local bus routes also serves Fotö approximately once every half hour during the day.

This rocky island doesn’t have much vegetation. Although there are houses here, the island was very quiet while I was walking around. A few cafes can be found in the vicinity of Fotö’s small harbor, but there are significantly fewer dining options here compared to Klåvan on Hönö.

Öckerö

Öckerö appears to be the northern group’s second-most prominent island after Hönö. The ferry from Lilla Varholmen doesn’t travel directly to Öckerö, so I crossed the short bridge that connects Hönö to Öckerö on foot.

Since I visited the Northern Gothenburg Archipelago as a day trip from Gothenburg, I only had an hour or two to explore Öckerö’s southeast coastline. This area was somewhat industrial, but the views of colorful architecture and boats in the harbor are still picturesque.

The most noteworthy landmark I visited in Öckerö was the Björnhuvudets Naturstig, a small rocky hill close to the water that offers impressive views of Öckerö to the west and the small island of Kalvsund across the water to the east.

How to Visit the Northern Group

Getting from the center of Gothenburg to the Lilla Varholmen ferry terminal is pretty straightforward on the city’s public transit system. When I visited, I took the X6 bus. I would highly recommend using the Västtrafik mobile app to plan your trip (which looks like the screenshots shown below).

As of summer 2025, Google Maps navigation was often wrong about where bus and tram stations were located and what time they were scheduled to depart. The Västtrafik app was better. Once you arrive at Lilla Varholmen, you’ll be able to board the ferry. If you want to visit the islands featured so far on this blog post, make sure you get on the boat to Hönö, not Björkö.

The ferry I took from Lilla Varholmen to Hönö is shown in the two images above. The seating area for walk-on passengers is basically just a long bench, but it is sheltered from the elements. In contrast to the ferries that serve the southern group, these bulky yellow ones didn’t seem to have a cafe or lounge seating. Luckily, the ride from the mainland to Hönö was pretty quick, so these weren’t big issues.

The Southern Group

The Gothenburg Archipelago’s southern group seems to be more popular among tourists than its northern islands. That’s partly because they’re a little closer to Gothenburg city. In addition, a tram runs from Gothenburg to Saltholmen ferry terminal, which acts as a gateway to the southern group. In contrast, visiting the northern group from Gothenburg city involves taking a bus (albeit an express one).

For all intents and purposes, the southern group is car-free. That means to get around, you should expect to walk. Islands in the southern group are pretty compact, but they’re not tiny. As such, I suggest bringing comfortable shoes.

Brännö

I would say the island with the most tourism infrastructure in the Gothenburg Archipelago is Brännö. If you’re having a hard time deciding which island to visit first, this is a great option. It’s the closest major island to Saltholmen on the mainland, which makes it easy to get to.

Brännö Lookout Spot (Brännö Utkiken)

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

This panoramic viewpoint is only about a 15-minute hike from the Brännö Rödsten ferry terminal, so you shouldn’t miss it! The best view from up here is facing east, which allows you to overlook the town and see the neighboring island of Asperö.

Husvik

If you walk all the way to the south side of Brännö, you’ll find yourself in the village of Husvik. It’s home to a rocky beach, a small marina, and a ferry terminal. However, Brännö Husvik terminal seems to only have two or three services per day. In contrast, Brännö Rödsten has ferries scheduled hourly at the very least.

Le Shack Brännö

Address: Brygga, Husviksvägen, 430 85 Brännö, Sweden
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Le-Shack-Br%C3%A4nn%C3%B6-100092374238566/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/leshack_branno/

I ate lunch at Le Shack Brännö, a little food vendor with outdoor seating located on the pier in Husvik. They serve drinks, snacks, and chilled seafood on toast, a classic Swedish treat! I tried one with fish and one with shrimp, plus a white wine. It’s very refreshing in the summer heat, and I love that it’s served with dill on top! My only issue at Le Shack Brännö is that wasps started swarming my food as soon as I sat down.

Brännö Ramsdal

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

This beach area has a few sandy shores, but it’s mostly made up of giant boulders sticking out of the water. I was surprised how busy Brännö Ramsdal was! If you visit during a sunny summer day, expect to share the sand and water with quite a few other visitors.

Galterö

Galterö was probably the most unique island I saw while exploring the Gothenburg Archipelago! It has no towns or villages; in fact, there aren’t even any buildings on Galterö. The entire island is a nature preserve that feels otherworldly in the best way possible!

The only way to get here is a wooded, unpaved path called the Galterövägen on the island of Brännö. It’s a beautiful walk, especially towards the end as it hugs the rugged shoreline.

At the end of the Galterövägen, you’ll encounter a small stone bridge with a latched gate. Cross it, and you’ll finally be on Galterö! This island has some trails, but in order to get around, you’ll also have to walk across rocky terrain. Luckily, it’s generally flat and easy to navigate, but you’ll still want to exercise caution.

Galterö has a few sandy beaches, as well as some grassy meadow areas. When I was there, I only saw a few other people exploring, but the beaches were busier than other parts of the island.

Without a doubt, the best part of Galterö was the flock of sheep grazing in this general area. They were seriously so adorable! This grassy area was also such an idyllic spot to take photos. I don’t know if the sheep are there all the time, or if they roam the island, but keep an eye out for them if you hike around Galterö!

Styrsö

The island of Styrsö is located in the middle of the southern group between Brännö and Vrångö. The northern half of Styrsö is developed into a cluster of villages, while the southern half is mainly covered by woods.

Styrsö Lookout Spot (Stora Rös)

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

If you visit Styrsö, I highly recommend hiking up to Stora Rös. It was probably the longest uphill hike I did in the Gothenburg Archipelago, but the views from the top are also probably the most expansive. From the edge of town, the hike, which follows a wooded trail, takes about ten minutes. From the Styrsö Bratten ferry dock, it takes about twenty minutes.

From the top of Stora Rös, you’ll be able to look down on all of Styrsö. My favorite view from up here was facing east though, looking towards the neighboring island of Donsö.

Donsö

I only spent about an hour on Donsö in the late afternoon before boarding the ferry to return to Gothenburg. Donsö is connected to Styrsö by a small bridge, which I walked across before heading further south along Donsö’s western edge.

The island’s only ferry port is not nearly as busy as the terminals on Brännö or Styrsö, so if you plan to use it, make sure to check the schedule and be on time for your boat. Donsö is small enough that there’s really only one town that takes up most of the island’s area. If I had more time, I would’ve loved to try a restaurant here or done a bit more exploring.

Vrångö

As the southernmost major island in the Gothenburg Archipelago, Vrångö feels more remote than many of the other islands featured above, especially Brännö. However, it’s one of the most gorgeous destinations in the archipelago! If you only have time to visit two islands in the southern group, I’d suggest seeing Brännö and Vrångö.

Vrångö Lookout Spot (Lotsutkiken)

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

Out of all the panoramic viewpoints in the Southern Gothenburg Archipelago, this one on Vrångö is probably the easiest to hike to. You basically just have to climb an outdoor staircase that brings you to an overlook right above the village rooftops. With these views to the east and water views to the west, this easy-to-access lookout spot was more crowded than the ones on Brännö and Styrsö.

Nötholmen

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

This tiny peninsula on the south side of Vrångö makes for an excellent short hike through a little beachside meadow. It only takes about ten or fifteen minutes to walk here from the Vrångö ferry port, Nötholmen offers a glimpse of the island’s natural beauty.

Hamnkrogen Lotsen/Fiskeboa Vrångö

Address: Kattholmsvägen 31, 430 83 Vrångö, Sweden
Website: https://www.hamnkrogenlotsen.se/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/hamnkrogenlotsen/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hamnkrogenlotsen/

Vrångö doesn’t seem to have tons of options for restaurants, so no matter where you go, expect a bit of a crowd. That was the case at Hamnkrogen Lotsen/Fiskeboa, but the delicious fish and chips here were worth the modest wait! They also serve local beers, and their dining area is an open-air covered space with fun nautical decor.

How to Visit the Southern Group

Before embarking on a day trip to the Southern Gothenburg Archipelago, consider downloading the Västtrafik mobile app (see what it looks like in the screenshots below). As of summer 2025, Google Maps seemed to have many errors regarding Gothenburg’s tram lines, especially the locations of stops. The Västtrafik mobile app was much more accurate. Västtrafik also allows you to buy electronic day passes that work on trams, buses, and ferries.

Two different tram lines connect Gothenburg city center with Saltholmen ferry terminal: the 11 and the 9. Both run regularly throughout the day. Saltholmen is the end of the line for 11 and 9 trams heading westbound, so it’s unlikely you’d get lost along the way.

Once you get to the ferry terminal, you’ll have to decide whether you want to take ferry route 281, 282, or 283. Each one is labeled with its final destination, and most of them stop at other islands along the way. In my experience, ferry staff were approachable and helpful if you’re not sure which boat you need to board.

The ferries that travel around the southern group all look like the one shown in the picture below. Their white exterior and distinctive shape make them easy to spot even from a distance.

Onboard, most ferries have a cafe that sells snacks and drinks. The passenger seating areas are decently comfortable. Part of the fun of visiting the Gothenburg Archipelago is taking in the view from the ferry as you sail between ports! Be sure to spend some time on all the passenger decks (front, back, and upper level when applicable). The front of the ship was my favorite spot for photography.

Enjoy Your Swedish Island-Hopping Adventure!

A trip to Gothenburg is not complete without at least one day trip to the archipelago of the same name! In fact, on my five-day trip, I spent three of those days roaming the islands of the archipelago. That’s how stunning they are!

Although I visited most of the major islands in the Göteborgs Skärgård, I didn’t see them all. If I ever get a chance to go back, I’ll be sure to check out some of the islands I missed on this trip and update this post!

Are you heading to the Gothenburg Archipelago? If you’ve already been, which island was your favorite? Leave me a comment below to let me know, and thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Aug 4, 2025

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post Exploring The Gothenburg Archipelago (Göteborgs Skärgård): A Visitor’s Guide appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

How To Visit Lausanne, A Beautiful Lakeside City In French-Speaking Switzerland

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 07 Dec 2023 18:00:00 +0000

How To Visit Lausanne, A Beautiful Lakeside City In French-Speaking Switzerland

Published December 7, 2023

One of the coolest things about Switzerland is that it’s incredibly multicultural and multilingual! The country has four national languages, and each one embodies its own region and heritage within Swiss society. I recently visited the French-speaking part of Switzerland for the first time. On this trip, my main destination was the city of Lausanne.

Travelers who are planning a getaway to Lausanne will find a serene city on the northern shore of Lake Geneva (also known as Lac Léman). Lausanne is about an hour away from Geneva by train, so it’s by no means remote. With that said, Lausanne is not extremely touristy. It offers the perfect balance between urban amenities and authentic local experiences.

What put Lausanne on my radar, you ask? Well, two friends from college moved to this area about a year ago. When I reached out to Wyatt and Abbey to ask if they wanted to get together for the week of Thanksgiving, they agreed! I’m so thankful to both of them for being amazing hosts and providing tons of great tips! Most of what’s featured below are things they recommended.

This blog post is broken down into the following topics. To skip down to any particular section, click or tap on the corresponding link!

Basic Information About Lausanne
Things to Do in Lausanne
Restaurants & Bars
Day Trip Ideas

Basic Information About Lausanne

Lausanne has a population of about 150,000 residents. This makes it either the fourth- or fifth-largest city in Switzerland (smaller than Zürich, Geneva, and Basel; roughly the same size as Bern, the country’s capital). It’s pretty quaint and compact, but there’s no shortage of things to see and do in town!

As mentioned above, Lausanne sits on the north side of the incredibly idyllic Lac Léman in southwest Switzerland. Geography is one of the city’s main draws. The lake’s clear blue water is absolutely gorgeous!

Lausanne is also known for its hills. Walking from the lakefront up to Cathédrale de Lausanne (Lausanne Cathedral) in the center of town is a bit of a workout. Luckily, a metro system runs right along this route! In fact, Lausanne is currently the smallest city in the world with a metro system! Take full advantage of Switzerland’s famous public transit infrastructure while you’re here.

In terms of language, French is what you’ll generally hear on the streets of Lausanne. However, I found that almost everyone I interacted with was proficient in English. Most signage and written text around the city is in French, but many restaurants had bilingual or trilingual menus. The museum I visited had bilingual placards. In short, I didn’t encounter any major struggles to communicate.

Things to Do in Lausanne

I’m happy to report that Lausanne is not a city where you have to rush from one attraction to another. It’s more atmospheric. My days here were spent leisurely exploring various neighborhoods on foot while admiring the sights and sounds. Since Lausanne is built on a hillside, there are lots of great places to enjoy panoramic views of Lake Geneva! With that in mind, below are some activities to do in town.

The Lakefront in Ouchy

This is Lausanne’s central waterfront district. In Ouchy (pronounced “oo-she”) you’ll find restaurants, fancy-looking hotels, and excellent views of the lake. The town’s main ferry terminal is also located in this area. It provides service to a few towns in France on the other side such as Évian-les-Bains and Thonon-les-Bains.

One thing I recommend doing in Ouchy is walking east along the water to Parc du Denantou (website | location). This park is home to an ornate golden “Pavillon Thaïlandais,” which was gifted from Thailand to Switzerland in 2007 to celebrate the 75th anniversary of diplomatic relations.

Église Saint-François and Place Saint-François

Address (of the church): Pl. Saint-François, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.sainf.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Sainf
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eglisesaintfrancois/

Lausanne has two major churches in the city center: Église Saint-François and Cathédrale de Lausanne. The former is closer to the lake than the latter. Église Saint-François has a distinctive pale-green spire surrounded by four smaller spikes of the same shade, so the church’s tower really stands out among the city’s rooftops.

When I entered the Saint-François Church to see the sanctuary, some musicians were rehearsing for a concert. The website also suggests that this is a popular venue for classical music performances.

In terms of the interior, the most noteworthy thing about the Église Saint-François is its ceiling. It’s got these incredibly intricate designs and patterns! This church’s original structure was built in the 13th century, but the inside was modernized in 2011. I’d say it was done in a really elegant and tasteful way that doesn’t feel at odds with the exterior.

After checking out the inside of Église Saint-François, hang out for a bit in “Place Saint-François,” the little plaza next to the church. It functions as one of Lausanne’s main town squares, and it’s surrounded by other interesting buildings.

Cathédrale de Lausanne

Address: Pl. de la Cathédrale 1, 1005 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cathedrale-lausanne.ch/accueil/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cathedrale.de.lausanne/

Located a little further up the hill, the Lausanne Cathedral is arguably the city’s architectural centerpiece. It towers over everything else and is visible from various neighborhoods. Cathédrale de Lausanne and Église Saint-François have similarly designed spires, but this one is red. One major difference between the two churches is that you can climb the tower at the Cathédrale de Lausanne.

I highly recommend you ascend the tower here for some fabulous 360-degree views of the city and the lake. Much of the viewing platform is open to the air, so the wind was howling fiercely when I went up. It was worth it though! Even with a freezing wind chill, I stayed up here for quite a while to appreciate Lausanne’s stunning cityscape with the lake in the background.

Tour de Sauvabelin (Sauvabelin Tower)

Address: Sauvabelin, 1018 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://tour-de-sauvabelin.ch/

Coming all the way out to this wooden tower with a helical staircase was a bit of an adventure. It’s on the far edge of town, even further inland than the Cathédrale de Lausanne. To get here, I took the Lausanne Metro to the “Sallaz” stop and then walked the rest of the way. I was able to navigate it on Google Maps. You should know that it’s basically a wooded trail with some stairs, not a city street you’ll be walking along.

The stroll through the forest was enchanting in the middle of November, with the autumn leaves ablaze in bright reds and oranges! This was the best spot I discovered in Lausanne for fall colors.

When I approached the actual tower, I was excited to climb it. Unfortunately, it was closed (I think for the winter season). There’s an automated turnstile that lets you in once you pay, and it was locked up. Luckily, the scenic hike here made up for that slight disappointment.

Even from the base of Tour de Sauvabelin, you’ll be treated to some views of the city below. I personally found Lausanne Cathedral’s tower to be more impressive than this area. That’s because the church is right in the middle of the historic center, and it’s closer to the lake. Since Tour de Sauvabelin is in the middle of the woods, the fall colors were the main attraction for me here.

Visit the "Collection de l'Art Brut"

Address: Av. Bergières 11, 1004 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CollectiondelArtBrutLausanne
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cablausanne/

Lausanne is home to a couple different museums, but without a doubt the most fascinating collection is the one featuring “art brut.” This is a term I had never heard of before coming to Lausanne, but it roughly translates to “raw art” or “rough art.” The English Wikipedia page calls it “outsider art.” All of these translations give some idea of what this genre is, but none of them really have that same bite to it as the original French term.

So, what is art brut? According to the museum website, “it is self-taught creators who produce Art Brut, people on the fringes of society who harbor a spirit of rebellion and tend to be impervious to collective standards and values.” You can read their entire definition here.

What stuck out to me as I was viewing the collection was this idea of artists on the fringes of society. Much of the work on display here was created by people who spent time in psychiatric hospitals and prisons. A lot of the art here was drawn or painted onto letters and envelopes. Perhaps that’s the only canvas some of these creators had access to while they were locked away.

Reading the bios in the museum will reveal that many of these artists faced significant trauma growing up. That pain and struggle is easy to see; grotesque and unsettling figures are common subjects in art brut. Most pieces here give a sense of unease and tension, even when they include bright colors or a smiling face.

The most impressive thing about the Collection de l’Art Brut is the fine, almost microscopic level of detail often present. This isn’t a massive, sprawling museum, so it’s possible to take a close look at the pieces that capture your attention without getting bogged down by the number of exhibits. Art brut represents raw, unfiltered human emotion. Its unconventional beauty is born out of incarceration, isolation, and ostracization. Don’t miss this incredible museum to see it for yourself!

Christmas Markets if You're Visiting in Winter!

Since I was in Lausanne in late November, Christmas markets were just getting started. They were set up in all of the town’s major public squares. I loved strolling through the rows of pop-up stores each day and buying a cup of “vin chaud” (hot wine) to sip on. These festive markets are also a great place to shop for gifts and souvenirs. They really put me in the holiday spirit!

Restaurants & Bars

I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised by Lausanne’s food scene. You won’t run out of local specialty dishes to try while you’re visiting! The city also has a nice selection of international cuisines to choose from.

Local Swiss Cuisine

Traditional plates in Vaud (the canton where Lausanne is located) seem to revolve around cheese, wine, seasonal produce, and meat. Two famous meals you won’t want to miss are raclette and fondue! Both are easy to find throughout this region. Below are some of the traditional Swiss restaurants I tried in Lausanne.

Vieil Ouchy

Address: Pl. du Port 3, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.vieilouchy.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vieilouchy
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vieilouchy/

Abbey and Wyatt recommended I try the fish at Vieil Ouchy. They serve perch directly from the lake (“filets de perches frais du lac Léman”). It’s a little pricey even by Swiss standards, but I felt like it was worth the splurge. The fish is cut up into small strips and served in a parsley cream sauce. It was light, fluffy, and easy to eat with no bones!

For dessert at Vieil Ouchy, I tried the “Meringues à la crème double de Gruyère.” A sign out front mentioned that this is one of their signature dishes, and it’s easy to see why! The crispness of the meringues complimented the richness of the Gruyère cream. It was also served with a few mixed berries on top, which provided just enough tartness to offset the sugar.

Café du Grütli

Address: Rue Mercerie 4, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cafedugruetli.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafegrutli
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafedugrutli_lausanne/

This is where we had our “Friendsgiving” dinner, and it was absolutely perfect! I’m going to be honest: fondue was such a better holiday meal than turkey. It’s a filling comfort food with a surprisingly complex flavor profile that is ideal for colder weather.

The interior of Café du Grütli feels like a ski lodge from another era. Pictured below is their second floor, which is where we were seated. The first floor dining room has a different theme, but it’s also quaint.

For those who’ve only had fondue in the US, the experience in Switzerland can be a little different. Authentic fondue here only entails a pot of melted cheese (not various courses of meat, soup, or chocolate). However, a plate of cured meat, pickles, and onions is served as an appetizer.

With the actual cheese pot, you get a basket of bread and a red and white bag of potatoes with a drawstring. It may not seem like much, but the cheese is so thick that it ends up being more than enough. Fondue is one of those meals where it’s almost impossible to stop eating, even as you can feel yourself getting increasingly full. It’s just that irresistible!

In terms of drinks, fondue goes well with white wine. And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can order a glass of kirsch! Also known as kirschwasser, this clear cherry brandy is often mixed in with the melted cheese (along with wine) to add additional flavors and aromas. If you order kirschwasser separately, it’ll come in a small glass. You can dip pieces of bread into the kirsch before soaking them in the cheese. This brandy is quite strong, so you only need a little bit! It’ll add a very distinct aftertaste to the bread that really warms the throat and chest.

Café de Grancy

Address: Av. du Rond-Point 1, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cafedegrancy.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CafedeGrancy
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafedegrancy_officiel/

Wyatt, Abbey, and I were lucky to be seated here for dinner on a Friday night without a reservation. That’s one thing to keep in mind for Lausanne, especially on the weekends. Popular restaurants fill up quickly, so a reservation a day in advance guarantees that you won’t be scrambling to find somewhere to eat.

At Café de Grancy, I ordered the “tartare de bœuf.” I am pretty sure this was the first time I’ve had steak tartare, and I generally liked it. It is raw minced beef, so I totally understand if that doesn’t appeal to you. I am a pretty adventurous eater, and Cafe de Grancy is known for their tartare. The flavor and texture of the beef reminded me of Hawaiian poke.

Pinte Besson

Address: Rue de l’Ale 4, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.pinte-besson.com/fr/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/PinteBesson
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/pintebesson/

This was a fun place to go for a traditional Swiss brunch of rösti. It’s similar to hash browns, but this potato-based dish is often served with egg, your choice of meat, and pickles. It definitely felt like a breakfast meal, but I’m told that Swiss people enjoy it throughout the day. Pinte Besson has an inviting patio outdoors and a low, curved ceiling inside, which makes it feel like a cozy little tavern.

Try Other "Cafés Historiques de Lausanne"

As it turns out, all four restaurants mentioned above are “cafés historiques de Lausanne.” This official designation given by the city recognizes these establishments as popular historic places to enjoy local flavors. If you’re looking for additional Swiss French dining options, check out the complete list of restaurants that have this distinction!

International Food

Lausanne’s international food scene consists mostly of cuisines from East Asia and other countries in Europe. The city seems to love ramen, hot pot, and other soup based dishes. In fact, hot pot is called “fondue chinoise,” so I think these dishes are popular because they’re similar to fondue and other Swiss meals.

Doki Doki
ドキドキ

Address: Av. du Tribunal-Fédéral 4, 1005 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://dokidoki-fc.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Doki-Doki/100051324954397/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dokidoki.ramen/

Abbey, Wyatt, and I all had our first dinner together at this ramen restaurant. I’m glad they recommended it! I wouldn’t call Doki Doki fusion, but I do feel like their menu offers a subtle Swiss-French twist on traditional Japanese cuisine. The ramen I ordered was spot on, with soft and tender chashu pork.

Be sure to save room for dessert at Doki Doki! The three of us split “cake maison au matcha” and a “boule de glace artisanale.” The matcha cake had chocolate chips in it, which is a winning combination I had never tried before. The ice cream was black sesame, and both treats had just enough sweetness to refresh my palate after a hot bowl of ramen.

Song Spécialités Chinois
宋

Address: CH, Rue du Petit-Chêne 22, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland

Towards the end of my trip, I was starting to crave some other cuisines besides Swiss. Song restaurant caught my eye, especially since their storefront had a sign that said “中国风味小馆.” I did a year of study abroad in China back in college, so I could tell that this place served authentic Chinese cuisine!

I’m glad I stepped in and tried their rice noodle soup. It was very satisfying! If you’ve had quite a bit of cheese-based Swiss cuisine and want to switch it up with something light and possibly spicy (you can add in chili oil to this soup if you want), Song is a great option!

Bar Gala

Address: Rue du Petit-Saint-Jean 7, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bar_gala_/

Bar Gala is a relatively new restaurant that specializes in top-notch Italian pasta and natural wine. Despite having a small menu (which might be rotating), all three of us couldn’t get over how delicious every appetizer and main plate was here. I got a putanesca dish that tasted like it came straight out of a nonna’s kitchen in Italy!

Even if you’re not familiar with natural wines, Bar Gala is a great place to try them for the first time. The service is excellent, and staff here should be able to help you pair wine offerings with food. Bar Gala is small, so a reservation beforehand is probably a good idea.

Coffee Options

Did I mention that Lausanne has a pretty vibrant coffee scene? I only got to try a few places, but I was pretty impressed with what I found!

Sleepy Bear Coffee Shop

Address: Rue du Simplon 3A, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://sleepybearcoffee.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Sleepybearcoffeelausanne/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sleepybearcoffee

You’ll find this cute little cafe close to the town’s main railway station, so it’s a perfect place to grab a coffee before going on a day trip by train. The oat milk latte I got at Sleepy Bear went well with a banana bread for a light breakfast.

Ça Passe Crème

Address: Bd de Grancy 49, 1006 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.capassecreme.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/capassecreme.ch
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/capassecreme.ch/

This popular spot has a name that references a colloquial French saying that means something like “to go smoothly.” I always love when coffee shops feel modern and bright but still draw from more traditional interior designs, and that was definitely the case at Ça Passe Crème. Even though it was a little busy, this was a comfortable and inviting place to sit and sip on a caffeinated beverage or two!

The baristas here did such a good job making my regular latte that I ended up ordering a second one! Since it was fall, I decided to try their take on pumpkin spice. It tasted like it was made with real pumpkin purée and was served with heavy cream on top.

Bars

Coffee Page

Address: Rue du Midi 20, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.coffee-page.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coffeepage_lausanne/

As its name suggests, Coffee Page serves coffee during the day. However, they also serve original and classic cocktails at night! We popped in one evening and tried a bunch of items from their drink menu. Everything was very tasty and easy to sip on, and the atmosphere in here was perfect for sitting and chatting without boisterous crowds or blasting music.

Bar Giraf

Address: Rue Pierre-Viret 6, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.vieux-lausanne.ch/bar-giraf
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BarGiraf/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/girafbar/

To mix things up a bit after a relaxing visit to Coffee Page, we walked over to Bar Giraf. Their motto is “Crowded Bar Since 1987.” I have to give them credit; it was indeed pretty crowded! Bar Giraf plays a lot of hits from the seventies and eighties, and the clientele here seemed a little older.

Snacks & Other Mentions

Hot Chocolate from Le Barbare

Address: Esc. du Marché 27, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://www.lebarbare.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeBarbareLausanne
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/le_barbare_lausanne/

If you’re looking to try one more “café historique,” Le Barbare is a great choice! They serve a lot of different food and drinks, but they’re known for their hot chocolate. It is fairly viscous with heavy cream on top. It’s honestly more of a dessert than anything else, perfect for mid-afternoon in between lunch and dinner. I had to share a table here because it was crowded when I went, but I didn’t mind at all. I was completely focused on how delectable this sweet treat was!

Swiss Chocolates from Blondel

Address: Rue de Bourg 5, 1003 Lausanne, Switzerland
Website: https://blondel.ch/fr/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Blondel-Chocolaterie/100064374450659/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/blondel_chocolat/

Abbey recommended I do some souvenir shopping at Blondel, a Lausanne-based chocolate shop that isn’t a chain. Their store is busy and a little hectic, so I didn’t feel like I was able to really talk to the employees and get recommendations. With that said, I ordered two identical gift boxes: one for my dad for Christmas and one for myself.

I couldn’t see what was inside, but it ended up being a variety pack with a dozen different bonbons. Each one was phenomenal, and I’d say the assortment box is the way to go if you’re looking for a gift. Just beware that these high-end chocolates cost a pretty penny (or in this case, Franc). One box of a dozen cost over 30 USD as of November 2023!

Salée au Fromage from a Farmer's Market

One final food recommendation from Abbey and Wyatt that I never would’ve found on my own was a “salée au fromage.” We bought one of these savory cheese tarts at a weekend farmer’s market and split it because they’re very dense. It was a perfect little appetizer to enjoy before getting brunch. This might be a local Vaudoise pastry, but I’m not completely sure.

Day Trip Ideas

Switzerland’s phenomenal train system makes day trips from Lausanne very easy. I spent one day in Geneva at the beginning of my vacation and took one day to explore Château de Chillon, Montreux, and Vevey. Over the course of a week, I saw the entire north shore of Lac Léman from west to east.

Geneva

This historic city is famous for its massive Jet d’Eau fountain, ties to the United Nations, and financial sector. Geneva is absolutely worth visiting for a day, especially if you’re flying in or out of the airport here. Even if you’re not, Lausanne is only about an hour away by train.

I spent most of my time in Geneva walking around the waterfront, exploring the old town center, and admiring the flora at the Conservatoire et Jardin botaniques de Genève. This is also where I tried raclette!

Château de Chillon, Montreux, and Vevey

The stunning Château de Chillon is like something out of a dream or a watercolor painting! This castle is an incredible landmark that you must see if you’re staying in Lausanne. Like Geneva, Château de Chillon is also only about an hour away by train (but in the opposite direction). You can tour the interior and get lost in the labyrinth of different chambers, halls, and courtyards.

After visiting Château de Chillon, walk or take the train west to Montreux. It’s a summer resort destination with showy hotels on the water’s edge. And if you want to make one more detour on the way back to Lausanne, you can visit Vevey. This sleepy little town provides a better view of the mountains than Montreux does. I stopped here for a latte and a glass of wine right around sunset.

Other Day Trip Ideas

There are probably dozens of different day trips you could do while using Lausanne as a “home base.” In addition to the ones mentioned above, you could check out some other travel blogs that have written about:

Cheesy Tips On Visiting Gruyères, Switzerland by Theresa at Hey, Traveler
10+ Things To Do In Evian-Les-Bains, France by Sonia at Happy Little Traveler
17 Top Sights & Best Things to Do in Bern, Switzerland by Jurga at Full Suitcase

Bon voyage à Lausanne !

Well, that’s about it from me! I hope that this blog post answered all your questions about visiting this gorgeous Swiss city. In some ways, Lausanne feels like a small town, especially along the lakefront and in parts of the historic center. Despite that, Lausanne offers amenities normally found in much larger cities. It really is a one-of-a-kind destination!

Do you have any questions or comments about this post? If you do, be sure to leave them for me below. Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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This post was published on Dec 7, 2023

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The post How To Visit Lausanne, A Beautiful Lakeside City In French-Speaking Switzerland appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

One Day In Geneva, Switzerland: Main Attractions, Food Ideas, And More

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 30 Nov 2023 18:00:00 +0000

One Day In Geneva, Switzerland: Main Attractions, Food Ideas, And More

Published November 30, 2023

The city of Geneva in western Switzerland is a place that many travelers pass through. It’s the country’s second-largest city, which is home to the country’s second-busiest airport. If you’re heading anywhere within the French-speaking part of Switzerland, you’ll probably be flying in or out of “Genève Aéroport.”

What brought me to Geneva for a day? Well, I came to Switzerland to visit friends living in nearby Lausanne. They told me to book a flight to Geneva and then take the train to their place. I knew I would be exhausted after flying across the Atlantic from the US, so I spent the first night of my vacation in Geneva. I set aside one full day to explore this historic city before venturing over to Lausanne.

This post will highlight what I was able to see and do in Geneva in one day. Click or tap any of the links below to jump down to the corresponding section!

24 Hours in Geneva: Things to See and Do
Foods to Try
- Local Swiss Delicacies
- International Cuisine

24 Hours in Geneva: Things to See and Do

One full day in Geneva is enough time to get a good sense of the town and see all its main attractions. The most central neighborhoods are compact and walkable. Geneva is famous for its finance sector, banking, diplomacy, and ties to the United Nations, so it has an undeniable cosmopolitan vibe. With that said, Geneva is not as hectic as other cities known for similar things, such as New York.

Explore the Lakefront

I’d argue that Geneva’s number one attraction is its waterfront. The city is situated at the far western edge of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman in French). The downtown area wraps around a little bay, so you’ll never be far from the edge of the lake.

I stayed in an Airbnb on the north side of town (in Sécheron), so I worked my way down and around the lakeshore. I started my walk at Quai Wilson and ended at the iconic Jet d’Eau, a massive fountain that towers over the entire city.

Quai Wilson & Quai du Mont-Blanc

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

These streets run right along the lakeshore between Sécheron and the Rhône River crossing. Quai Wilson turns into Quai du Mont-Blanc as you approach Geneva’s historic center. While you’re here, take your first glimpse of the Jet d’Eau from a far. On a clear day, you can also see the dramatic rocky cliffs that surround the city.

Bains des Pâquis & Phare des Pâquis

Address: Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, 1201 Genève, Switzerland
Website: https://www.bains-des-paquis.ch/en
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bainsdespaquis/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bainsdespaquis/

Look at a map of Geneva, and you’ll notice a little piece of land sticking out into the lake from Quai du Mont-Blanc. Not only does this place offer good photo ops, but there are also two noteworthy landmarks here: Bains des Pâquis and Phare des Pâquis. The former is a popular local sauna with access to the lake. There’s also a restaurant here, which is one of the places I ate lunch (more on that below). You don’t have to purchase a day pass to the sauna in order to eat there.

The second landmark, Phare des Pâquis, is a picturesque lighthouse at the end of this little strip of land. You can walk all the way up to it, but just beware that the ground might be wet and slippery. Visit during the day or take a stroll out here in the evening to see it lit up after dark.

Cross the Rhône River

Location: Click or tap for Google Maps link

The Rhône River (not to be confused with the Rhine) is a waterway that begins in the Swiss Alps and empties into the Mediterranean sea in France near Marseille. The river feeds into Lac Léman on its far eastern side near Port-Valais, and the lake turns back into the Rhône River in the heart of Geneva.

In order to get from Pâquis to the historic center of town, you have to cross the Rhône. There are about a half-dozen bridges to do so, and the two most convenient ones for pedestrians are Pont du Mont-Blanc and Pont des Bergues.

Pont des Bergues provides access to Île Rousseau, a tiny island in the middle of the river. It’s got a little park on it, which had trees decorated with festive lights (at least during my visit). Île Rousseau seemed like a place where commuters would stop to rest for a few minutes and enjoy the view.

Jardin Anglais

Address: Quai du Général-Guisan 34, 1204 Genève, Switzerland
Website: https://www.geneve.ch/en/jardin-anglais
See also: https://www.geneve.com/en/attractions/detail/english-garden

The next major point of interest along Geneva’s waterfront after you cross the Rhône River is Jardin Anglais (English Garden). It’s a lush park with bright colors even in late fall. This is the only large green space on the waterfront near the city center.

Jet d'Eau

Address: Quai Gustave-Ador, 1207 Genève, Switzerland
Website: https://www.geneve.ch/en/jet-eau
See also: https://www.geneve.com/en/explore-the-city/geneva-sights-and-stories/the-jet-d-eau-the-star-of-geneva-harbour

From Jardin Anglais, Geneva’s most recognizable symbol is not far away. According to the websites listed above, the fountain sprays 140 meters (460 feet) into the air at a speed of 200 kilometers per hour (124 miles per hour). It’s stunning to see up close, but it’s also incredibly cool to see peeking over buildings and rooftops from various parts of Geneva.

The other aspect of the Jet d’Eau I find so fascinating is that it’s not a static structure. Depending on the wind and your proximity, the flow of water can have a distinct arch shape. From other vantage points (or if the wind is blowing in your direction), it just looks like a blurry column of water and mist. Where the water lands on the lake is also dependent on the wind.

You can approach the Jet d’Eau by walking down the pier it’s built next to. For obvious safety reasons, there’s a barrier that prevents anyone from getting too close to the base of the fountain. If you want a close-up view of the Jet d’Eau, prepare to be sprayed with at least a little bit of mist!

At the far end of the pier, past the Jet d’Eau is a small lighthouse called Phare des Eaux-Vives. It’s not as picturesque as Phare des Pâquis, but they’re actually close enough together that you can see both at the same time. The pathway from the Jet d’Eau to this lighthouse is narrow and wet. There aren’t any guardrails, so exercise caution while coming out here.

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève

Address: Cr de Saint-Pierre, 1204 Genève, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cathedrale-geneve.ch/en/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cathedralegeneve/

Geneva’s most famous cathedral is worth visiting for a number of reasons. Right off the bat, its exterior looks like an amalgamation of styles and architectural periods. The columns in front of the main entrance look pretty different from the rest of the building. That’s because the church was constructed starting in the 12th century; however, those Neoclassical, Greek-inspired columns were added much more recently in the 1700s.

The main sanctuary of this cathedral is pretty standard in my opinion. With that in mind, the number one reason to visit this church is its bell tower. Pay a small fee, and you can climb the tower for panoramic views of the city. On one side you’ll be able to see Lac Léman and the Jet d’Eau. All other directions offer views of rooftops in the historic center.

Musée Ariana

Address: Av. de la Paix 10, 1202 Genève, Switzerland
Website: https://www.musee-ariana.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/museearianageneve/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/museearianageneve

I only visited one museum during my 24 hours in Geneva, but I’m glad it was this one! It features mostly glass and ceramics, and the collection is housed in the beautiful building shown below. It doesn’t take too long to see everything, and the pieces on display were produced all over the world throughout the last 1,200 years. As such, the Musée Ariana boasts a wide breadth of styles without being overwhelming.

If you’re interested in touring the United Nations next door to the Musée Ariana, you need to make arrangements beforehand. I didn’t do this, nor did I have a particularly strong interest in visiting. According to their website, it’s recommended that you book three months in advance! The good news is, Geneva’s international vibe is ubiquitous throughout the city. You don’t have to visit the actual UN to experience it.

Conservatoire et Jardin botaniques de Genève

Address: Chem. de l’Impératrice 1, 1292 Pregny-Chambésy, Switzerland
Website: https://www.cjbg.ch/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cjbgeneve

This huge botanical garden is the best place in Geneva to see autumn leaves! I’m sure it’s just as impressive in spring and summer when everything is bright green. Even in November, there were some pretty flowers in bloom at the Conservatoire et Jardin botaniques.

Be sure to check out the greenhouses here as well. They form a labyrinth of rooms where tons of tropical and desert plants are able to thrive. There were so many little nooks and crannies to discover here!

Christmas Markets in Winter

If you visit Geneva in late fall or early winter, you may not be blessed with great weather the entire time. Luckily, one thing is guaranteed if you visit in late November or December: Christmas markets! The one I visited was set up along Quai du Mont-Blanc.

They had lots of vendors, festive lights, food stalls, alcoholic beverages, seating areas, and more. I enjoyed strolling through, and it was a great place to sip on a coffee while enjoying the holiday ambiance.

Foods to Try

One day in Geneva will allow you to try two or three meals here. I ate at two local Swiss places and one international restaurant. Read on to see what I found!

Local Swiss Delicacies

Food in this part of Switzerland feels very wholesome to me as an American. As you might already know, cheese is one of the main highlights. However, cuisine from Geneva and Vaud (the neighboring canton) also features lots of veggies both fresh and cooked, local meat, and fish from the lake. Meals here are filling and satisfying, but never excessively heavy.

Raclette

I’ve had this famous dish before in the US, so I was excited to see what it would be like in Switzerland! It’s basically melted cheese served with boiled potatoes, bread, pickles, and cured meats.

I tried this classic dish at Auberge de Savièse (website | location). It’s a Swiss restaurant not far from Quai du Mont-Blanc, and the interior is designed to look like a cozy mountain lodge. I think this is a touristy place, but I didn’t mind that at all. The raclette was amazing regardless!

Fondue

Okay, so I didn’t technically have fondue in Geneva. Instead, I tried it a few days later in Lausanne. I think eating both raclette and fondue on the same day would be an overload of melted cheese, so I don’t really recommend it. If you’re spending additional time in another part of Romandy (this region of Switzerland), you might want to space these two meals out.

For travelers who do want to experience fondue in Geneva, there are lots of restaurants around town that serve it, including Auberge de Savièse. One thing to note is that restaurants often require a party of two or more for fondue. That’s why I tried raclette in Geneva by myself, and waited to have fondue in Lausanne with friends.

La Buvette des Bains

Address: Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, 1201 Genève, Switzerland
Website: https://www.bains-des-paquis.ch/en/restaurant
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/buvette_des_bains_des_paquis/

The host of my Airbnb recommended I try this restaurant located at the Bains des Pâquis. He said it was a good way to experience authentic local food that isn’t overpriced. I think they have a rotating menu, so on the day I went they were serving a spaghetti shrimp dish.

The pasta was honestly phenomenal! It came with dried tomatoes, arugula, lemon, cheese, and a slightly spicy oil-based sauce drizzled on top. What an amazing combination! It felt like a summer dish, but was still so satisfying in November.

International Cuisine

Because diplomats and representatives from all over the world come to Geneva, the city’s food scene is pretty international. When I saw “Ulaanbaatar,” a Mongolian restaurant located here, I knew I had to try it. That’s because I went to Ulaanbaatar (the capital of Mongolia) back in 2016! I don’t think I’ve ever seen an exclusively Mongolian restaurant in the US, so I didn’t want to pass up this opportunity.

I ordered a plate of dumplings with pickled veggies. They were a little bit different from the ones I remember eating in Mongolia, but these were still delicious!

You might be able to find other niche international cuisines in Geneva. If there’s a dish you’re craving that you don’t have access to in your home city, do a quick online search! Geneva may have just what you’re looking for.

Have an Amazing One-Day Adventure in Geneva!

I hope this blog post sets you up for success for a one-day visit to Switzerland’s second-largest city! Even if you don’t prioritize these exact museums, restaurants, and attractions, you should still be able to get a good sense of what this city on the lake is all about.

Travelers who are visiting other parts of Lac Léman should also check out my blog posts featuring Lausanne and Vevey [Vevey post coming soon!]. Both cities are gorgeous, and they’re accessible from Geneva via Switzerland’s world-renowned “SBB CFF FFS” train system.

Do you have any feedback about this post? Be sure to leave a comment below if you do! I love hearing from all of you, and I’m constantly aiming to make my blog even more helpful for like-minded adventurers. Thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Nov 30, 2023

Bangkok (Sept)
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The post One Day In Geneva, Switzerland: Main Attractions, Food Ideas, And More appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

How Long Should You Spend In Lisbon? A Few Itineraries For Portugal’s Capital

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 03 Nov 2022 17:00:00 +0000

How Long Should You Spend In Lisbon? A Few Itineraries For Portugal’s Capital

Published November 3, 2022

Lisbon is one of Europe’s most charming and iconic urban destinations. The capital of Portugal offers stunning natural beauty and an incredible cityscape made up of pastel colors, ornate tiles, and striking red clay rooftops as far as the eye can see. Should you visit Lisbon? Without a doubt, the answer is yes. But how long should you spend there? Read on to find out!

Lisbon was actually one of my very first cities I blogged about back in spring of 2018. Caffeinated Excursions has come a long way since then, but if you’d like to see what I thought of Lisbon years ago, be sure to check out that separate blog post!

This post will briefly introduce neighborhoods of Lisbon you can’t miss, then present a few different itineraries for visiting the capital city of Portugal. To skip down to any particular section, click or tap the corresponding link below!

Neighborhoods of Lisbon
Lisbon Food & Drink
Three or Four Day Itinerary
Five or Six Day Itinerary
Longer than Five or Six Days

Neighborhoods of Lisbon

Whether you stay in Lisbon for three days or multiple weeks, you’ll almost certainly be visiting the following five neighborhoods. They’re all centrally located except for one (Belém), and it’s easy to walk between them.

1. Baixa de Lisboa

Downtown Lisbon, known as Baixa de Lisboa, is the historic heart of the city. Its two main focal points are the wide and open Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) and Rua Augusta, a pedestrian street that connects the waterfront and the rest of the city further inland.

2. Alfama

The neighborhood of Alfama is directly east of Baixa de Lisboa. However, the vibe here is completely different. Unlike the grand avenues and plazas of downtown, Alfama’s streets are steep and narrow. Get lost in a hillside labyrinth of cobblestone alleys that make up the oldest part of the city.

3. Graça

Graça is a quaint area north of Alfama and one of my favorite parts of Lisbon. That’s because it has two panoramic lookout spots that are open to the public! Graça is artsy and trendy, but it feels a little more local than Alfama.

4. Belém

This is the one neighborhood all visitors to Lisbon should check out that isn’t within walking distance to downtown. Take a train or Uber to see the famous Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) and Padrão dos Descobrimentos, both on the waterfront.

5. Bairro Alto

Bairro Alto is a densely packed part of town west of Baixa de Lisboa. Prepare to climb quite a few flights of stairs or steep streets to get from downtown to this area known for its nightlife! Of all the popular areas of Lisbon I visited, this is the one that impressed me the least. If you are only staying for three days and don’t have time, I’d say it’s fine to skip Bairro Alto.

Lisbon Food & Drink

One of the main highlights of Lisbon is undoubtedly the food! Portuguese cuisine intrigues me because it is defined by relatively simple recipes that don’t use a ton of spice or garnish, yet still manage to be so tasty and satisfying.

If you’re going to spend more than three or four days in Lisbon, use the extra time to try as many local restaurants and bars as you can! To learn more about Lisbon’s food scene and my favorite restaurants there, check out my Lisbon Food Guide [coming soon].

Three or Four Day Itinerary

In my honest opinion, I recommend that travelers plan four full days in Lisbon, especially for a first visit. The city may look vast on a map, but because it’s so old, it’s very walkable. Attractions further away from the city center can be reached via affordable, generally straightforward public transport. Here are some Lisbon essentials for a three or four day itinerary!

Praça do Comércio & Rua Augusta

Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) is a great place to start any Lisbon itinerary because it’s the geographic center of the city. Located right on the waterfront in Baixa de Lisboa, all major streets radiate out from this point.

Take a good look at the Dom José I Equestrian Statue at the center of the square, which includes a beautiful sculpture of an elephant on its eastern side. Then, check out the regal white Arco da Rua Augusta (Augusta Street Arch) on the north side of the plaza.

After you’re done admiring Praça do Comércio, head north on Rua Augusta. This bustling street only allows pedestrians. However, cars and trams still cross Rua Augusta perpendicularly, so pay attention at the crosswalks that intersect it.

Elevador de Santa Justa

If you happen to walk by this outdoor elevator while exploring Baixa de Lisboa on foot, it’ll almost certainly capture your attention. Its gray iron structure with gothic elements and a top-heavy design is eye-catching, and it stands out amongst the surrounding buildings.

The Elevador de Santa Justa connects Baixa de Lisboa with Bairro Alto directly to the west. Although the two neighborhoods are right next to each other, Bairro Alto sits at a much higher elevation.

In all honesty, I’d recommend visiting the Santa Just Lift but not riding it. That’s because the line for tickets moves slowly, plus the upper platform is accessible as long as you’re willing to walk up a few steep city blocks to get there.

What’s more, you can even enter part of the upper deck and enjoy the panoramic view without buying a ticket and waiting in line. The skyline looking east is especially awesome! Be sure to also face north to spot the amazing black and white tiles on Praça Dom Pedro IV.

Museu Arqueológico do Carmo

Since the Museu Arqueológico do Carmo, or Carmo Convent, is located right next to the Santa Justa Elevator, you can visit both attractions on the same day. Although this cathedral-turned-museum is missing its roof, the arches are still intact. The result is a stunning open-air structure that is absolutely worth seeing.

On the far end of the church is a section that still has its roof. Inside this portion of the museum, you’ll find ornately carved tombs, azulejos (Portuguese tiles), and other artifacts.

Rossio

If you walk north on Rua Augusta, you’ll eventually find yourself at Rossio. This part of Baixa de Lisboa is home to two beautiful public squares: Praça da Figueira (Fig Tree Plaza, although it currently houses no fig tree) and Praça Dom Pedro IV. Both are pretty, but I really love the fountain and the calçada portuguesa (Portuguese black-and-white pavement) in the latter.

Castelo de São Jorge

I can’t believe I missed this attraction on my first visit to Lisbon! This stone castle overlooks the entire city from the highest point in Alfama. In addition to offering amazing views of the city, the São Jorge Castle is an architectural marvel in and of itself. Dating back to the 11th century, the Moorish design is incredible to see in person.

I actually visited Castelo de São Jorge twice during this trip and never experienced an unreasonably long wait time to get in. However, I found that the physical barriers on the castle walls were pretty low – they only came up to knee-level in many places. Needless to say, exercise caution!

Miradouros of Graça

“Miradouro” is the Portuguese word for “panoramic lookout,” and the neighborhood of Graça has two of the best in the city. The first is the Miradouro da Graça, and the second is Miradouro da Senhora do Monte.

Miradouro da Graça

This panoramic balcony looks to the west and offers views of Lisbon’s rooftops and the bay. Miradouro da Graça is located next to a church (Igreja Paroquial da Graça), which is worth visiting if it happens to be open while you’re there.

Be sure to also check out graffiti in the Caracol da Graça, a zigzag outdoor staircase and alleyway that connects Miradouro da Graça with Rua dos Lagares below. There is also a cozy plaza nearby the lookout called Jardim da Graça.

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

Since Lisbon is incredibly hilly, there are dozens of amazing places to see the cityscape. Fortunately, almost none of them involve a touristy observation deck. However, I think Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is my favorite. Even though it’s only a short walk uphill from Miradouro da Graça, this open-air lookout point offers a much wider field of vision, including unobstructed views looking north. The Senhora do Monte lookout is also larger and feels less crowded.

The neighborhood of Graça has much more to offer than these two miradouros, such as street art and a cool bar scene. However, if you are pressed for time, the viewpoints should not be missed. I found myself coming back to them day after day just to enjoy the amazing views!

Alfama: Alleys and Miradouro de Santa Luzia

The oldest part of Lisbon might very well be the area with the most character. Alfama’s steep streets and narrow alleyways set it apart from other neighborhoods. Explore Alfama in depth, then try a restaurant or bar here. In all honesty, it seems like dining options here offer a cozier experience than the crowded avenues and noisy patios of Baixa de Lisboa.

In addition, Alfama’s Miradouro de Santa Luzia offers a unique view of the Tagus River. That’s because it faces east, unlike the miradouros in Graça that look west. From Santa Luzia Lookout, you’ll be able to see any cruise ships that are docked in Lisbon during your visit.

Belém

To get to the neighborhood of Belém, you’ll have to take a train or an Uber, but it is worth the short journey out here. That’s because this area is home to two landmarks you won’t want to miss: the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) and Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Discoveries Monument).

Torre de Belém

This waterfront castle is an iconic symbol of Lisbon. Its unique design consists of a wide lower base and a tall tower, and its rounded domes give it a nautical vibe. Built in the early 1500s, the Torre de Belém functioned as a defensive fort and a place from which Portuguese explorers would set sail.

You can actually visit the interior of the castle, and I highly recommend doing so if it’s open. The rooms inside the main tower have beautiful checkerboard floors and stunning arched ceilings. The view looking out across the river is also pretty incredible.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos

This massive monument was built in the 1960s to commemorate Portuguese explorers. A smaller version was originally built in the 1940s as a temporary exhibit. It was destroyed after three years, but rebuilt on a larger scale two decades later.

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos also offers entry to visitors. If you look closely at the top of the monument, you’ll see people walking around. I skipped this one since it’s basically next to the Torre de Belém and would offer a similar view looking out over the river. However, Discoveries Monument is significantly taller than Belém Tower, so you’ll probably be able to see a lot further if you decide to go to the viewing deck here.

Other Attractions in Belém

The one thing I skipped in Belém was the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery). That’s because the line to get in was so long: by far the longest line I saw on this entire trip. Reviews online claimed that it moves quickly, but that just didn’t appear to be the case. The monastery is one of Lisbon’s famous sites, but it didn’t look like it was worth waiting an hour or more in line.

Another famous place to stop by is Pastéis de Belém. Founded in 1837, this bakery is known for its Portuguese egg tarts. This is another place where you’re likely to encounter a line out the door, but it does move quickly since the pastries are cooked in huge batches and are easy to serve.

I visited Pastéis de Belém on my previous trip to Lisbon four years ago, and I had already had my fill of egg tarts by the time I made it over to Belém, so I skipped it this trip.

Go on a Day Trip

The main difference between a three-day and four-day trip to Lisbon would be leaving the city on one of the four days. There are many day trip options from Lisbon, and the most common one by far is Sintra. This village to the west of Lisbon is easy to get to by train, and it’s home to Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena), a gorgeous red, yellow, and purple castle built in the Romantic style.

I visited Sintra on my last trip to Lisbon in 2018, but didn’t return on this trip in part because the weather wasn’t amazing. Sintra offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills and the Atlantic Ocean. These are most impressive on a clear, sunny day.

I also remember that I didn’t have to wait very long to get into Palácio da Pena, but things may have changed since then. To read more specific and recent tips on visiting Sintra, check out one of the following blog posts:

A Sintra town guide by Linda and David at RetiredAndTravelling
Avoiding the crowds during a day trip to Sintra by Maggie from Pink Caddy Travelogue
Tips for visiting Pena Palace by Linda and David at RetiredAndTravelling

Five or Six Day Itinerary

Although I think four days is ideal for a visit to Lisbon, the main benefit to staying longer is additional time to explore the city’s food scene. However, the following three attractions can be included on a five or six day trip to the city.

Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral)

Head to Alfama if you’d like to visit Lisbon’s oldest church with twin bell towers. Entrance tickets will allow you to see the sanctuary, the loft, and some additional rooms on the upper floors that house relics and artifacts.

Panteão Nacional (National Pantheon)

The National Pantheon was originally built as a church, but now functions as a mausoleum for famous Portuguese explorers and other influential historical figures. Both the interior and exterior of this building are incredible, and the Panteão’s dome stands out among the red clay rooftops that most buildings in Lisbon have.

A visit to the Panteão Nacional will allow you to explore the various levels of the building, including the roof. I wouldn’t say the Pantheon is a must-see in Lisbon, but it is a good option if you find yourself with an extra hour or two and happen to be near the eastern end of Alfama.

Bairro Alto - Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara

As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I don’t find Bairro Alto as charming as the other centrally-located neighborhoods of Lisbon. However, if you’re going to be spending more than three or four days in the city, you might as well go check it out, at least for a little while. There are restaurants and bars here, but nothing stood out to me as I was walking along the main roads here.

One interesting thing to check out in Bairro Alto if you do head over this way is the Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara. This lookout is a little different from the ones mentioned earlier because it faces east (the ones in Alfama and Graça face west).

Longer than Five or Six Days

I personally don’t recommend staying longer than six days in Lisbon. If you’re spending more than one week in Portugal, you should definitely split your time between Lisbon and another part of the country. With that said, the main thing to do on an extended stay in the capital would be exploring some of the city’s museums. Below are two options to consider.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo

This museum explains the historical significance of azulejos, or Portuguese tiles. These glazed ceramic tiles are typically (but not always) white and blue and are extremely prevalent throughout Lisbon. The museum is very impressive, especially its cathedral (it’s housed in a converted convent). The one thing I didn’t love about the museum is that it’s not very close to anything else featured on this post, and it’s not that easy to get to on foot.

MAAT

The acronym MAAT stands for “Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia,” which happens to also match the English translation (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology). Located in Belém, the MAAT is housed in a stunning white structure that resembles a wave about to crash into Tagus River. Small panels form a sort of hexagonal pattern on the building’s exterior that compliments the calçada portuguesa (tile pavement) on the adjacent sidewalk.

The roof of the MAAT is also a balcony that is open to the public. It offers a nice view of the Ponte 25 de Abril (April 25th Bridge), which resembles the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

Inside the museum are modern exhibits that I think most people will find thought-provoking and engaging. The MAAT is not a huge museum, so it won’t take hours and hours to explore.

Additional Day Trips

The last thing I’d recommend for a long visit to Lisbon is going on additional day trips. There are many great options beyond Sintra, including the seaside town of Cascais, which can be reached by train via Cais do Sodré Train Station. Another town to consider is Évora, inland from Lisbon about halfway between the coast and the border with Spain.

In Conclusion

Having been to Lisbon twice and having spent a week there this second time, I can say with confidence that I’ve seen more of the city than the average tourist. I think four days is perfect for most visitors. That can be extended to five or possibly six days for travelers who love food, museums, or simply want to take things a little slower.

Would I visit Lisbon a third time? Maybe in a decade or so. But after two visits, I would much rather check out another part of the country, such as Porto in the north, Albufeira in the south, or the Açores off the coast. In fact, I probably want to prioritize a trip to Spain before returning to Portugal for a third time, seeing as I’ve still never been!

Have you spent time in Lisbon before? Are you headed there soon? Leave a comment and let me know! I hope this guide was helpful if you’re planning a trip, and thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Nov 3, 2022

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Treviso, Italy: A Visitor’s Guide For Mindful Travelers

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 09 Aug 2022 17:00:00 +0000

Treviso, Italy: A Visitor’s Guide
For Mindful Travelers

Treviso, Italy:
A Visitor’s Guide For Mindful Travelers

Published August 9, 2020

Are you interested in an Italian getaway, but not sure which part of the country to visit? Travel enthusiasts should consider Treviso, a small city not far from Venice in the region of Veneto. Treviso’s most striking feature is its canals, and the city is sometimes dubbed “The Other Venice.” In this post, I’ll explain whether or not I agree with that label, plus showcase what I found in Treviso during my five-day stay there!

Italy holds a special place in this traveler’s heart: it was my very first European vacation destination way back in 2014. Since then, I’ve spent time in Rome and Milan. It’s also one of the few countries I’ve been to for business. On this trip, I wanted to explore Italy beyond its largest cities. Treviso ended up being the obvious choice since a friend from college currently lives there. One other friend joined us, and I’m so glad we had a little reunion in such a beautiful town!

Why is this guide intended for “mindful travelers,” you ask? Well, Treviso is great for anyone who’s already been to Italy a few times. It’s perfect for visitors who are mindful of (and wary of) overtourism in nearby Venice. If you consider yourself an “off-the-beaten-path” traveler, this quaint town will probably be right up your alley.

To skip down to any section of this travel guide, click or tap the corresponding link below.

Is Treviso a “Mini Venice”?
- Similarities Between Them
- Differences Between Them
Restaurants in Treviso
Museums
- Museo Luigi Bailo
- Musei Civici di Treviso
Other Attractions
Day Trips to Venice

Is Treviso a “Mini Venice”?

Here’s my short answer: no. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing! Potential visitors should understand that Treviso is not really a small Venice without the crowds. Instead, it has its own unique flair that is worth experiencing regardless of its proximity to Venice.

Similarities Between Treviso and Venice

Both Treviso and Venice have canals. That’s the main similarity. Even then, Venice’s waterways share little in common with those in Treviso. In Venice, the canals are wide and deep. They carve the city up into little islands that are connected by hundreds of bridges. Boats and gondolas dominate these passageways, and major thoroughfares in Venice run parallel to the canals.

In contrast, most of Treviso’s canals run perpendicular to streets. They’re much shallower. As such, they don’t support gondolas or other boat traffic. Finally, Treviso’s canals look very clean and clear. Entire aquatic ecosystems seem to thrive here, from an abundance of plant life to waterfowl to majestic swans. Treviso’s canals are so full of plants, in fact, that many of them have a distinctive glassy, emerald look to them. Their bright green color is something you won’t find in Venice’s murkier waters.

Differences Between Treviso and Venice

Look at the geography of both cities to see how little they have in common. Venice is composed of over 100 different islands clustered in the middle of a lagoon. Meanwhile, Treviso is located much further inland, surrounded by countryside.

Most of Venice does not allow cars or bikes (there are only pedestrian pathways). Since this major tourist destination has no vehicular roads, the city is extremely dense. Treviso, on the other hand, has regular roads that pedestrians must share with cars, bikes, and buses. Treviso feels about as spread out as your average small or mid-sized European city.

A proper vacation in Venice would probably involve running around to various cathedrals, piazzas, and other attractions. In short, you’d be checking off boxes on a list. Treviso is more of a place to try mom-and-pop restaurants, meander through side alleys, and take it easy.

Restaurants in Treviso

Are you a foodie on a budget? If so, you’ve come to the right place! There are so many cozy trattorie and osterie in Treviso offering local flavors at reasonable prices. Here are some of the places I recommend.

Osteria Alla Grotta

Address: Via Cornarotta, 10, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy

This was my favorite meal in Treviso, so it’s at the top of my list. I ordered a plate of spaghetti that came in an interesting, slightly spicy black sauce with moscardini (tiny octopus). I also got their tripe in a tomato sauce, which was equally flavorful!

The dining room at Osteria Alla Grotta is small, so I recommend making a reservation beforehand.

Osteria ai Filodrammatici

Address: Via Filodrammatici, 5, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/OsteriaAiFilodrammatici/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/osteriaaifilodrammatici/

Filodrammatici is a cute little restaurant that has outdoor seating and an upstairs dining room. I decided to try their duck ragù gnocchi. It was wonderfully rich!

La Proseccheria ai Soffioni

Address: P.za dei Signori, 26, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.soffioni.it/it/home
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/proseccheriaaisoffioni
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/proseccheria_aisoffioni/

This bar and restaurant is located on Treviso’s main square. I tried something new and ordered bigoli, pictured below. It’s now one of my favorite kinds of pastas, and I’ll be on the lookout for it whenever I’m at an authentic Italian restaurant! It’s thick, filling, and absorbs sauce and flavor really well.

Did you notice that this restaurant isn’t an osteria or a trattoria, but instead a proseccheria? That’s because prosecco is a local specialty in Treviso! If you try this place, be sure to order a glass with your meal!

Trattoria All'Oca Bianca

Address: Vicolo della Torre, 7, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy

Oca Bianca (which means “White Goose”) is tucked away on a side alley. We split an appetizer of polenta nera (black polenta, not pictured), which I thought was a little underwhelming. However, the cheese ravioli I got for my dinner here was delicious!

Trattoria Toni Del Spin

Address: Via Inferiore, 7, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.ristorantetonidelspin.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tonidelspin/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/trattoriatonidelspin/

I loved bigoli so much that I had to order it a second time at Trattoria Toni Del Spin. This one came in a very interesting and tasty sardine-based sauce.

Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti

Address: Vicolo Broli, 2, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/VeciaHostariaDaiNaneti
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/veciahostariadainaneti/

Don’t leave Treviso without trying a sandwich from Dai Naneti! You build your own by choosing from a selection of deli meats, cheeses, and veggies. The staff here can even help you pair meats and cheeses if you need suggestions. I really liked the creamy cheese spread I got, not to mention their amazing seasoned tomatoes and eggplant slices.

Pizzaria da Fausta

Address: Via Portico Oscuro, 10, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dafausta/

Pizzaria da Fausta serves good pizza for low prices in a casual setting. I ordered something I discovered on my previous trip to Italy: a quatro stagioni (four seasons). I like it because it’s divided into quadrants that each have their own toppings.

Le Beccherie

Address: P.za G. Ancilotto, 9, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.lebeccherie.it/it/home
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BeccherieTrevisoRistorante/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lebeccherie/

One thing I learned in Treviso is that tiramisù was apparently invented here! Lots of restaurants serve it, but one in particular is famous for it: Le Beccherie. This is definitely the most upscale restaurant I saw in town, and they offer a very fancy-looking tasting menu. However, you can also go and just order a slice of their famous cake.

The menu includes suggested wine pairings, so I splurged and ordered a port to go with my tiramisù. The cake was so soft and rich without being heavy, and the sweet red wine really complemented the chocolate.

Taste Coffee & More

Address: Vicolo Trevisi, 16/21, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.tastecoffee.it/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tastecoffeemore/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tastecoffeemore/

Typical Italian espresso drinks are available all around town, but Taste Coffee & More is a must-visit for anyone like me who needs more than a small cappuccino in the morning. They offer single origin coffees and also serve iced coffee, which is not nearly as common in Europe as it is in the US.

Hanoi Quan

Address: Viale IV Novembre, 9a, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.ristorantehanoi.it/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063930257875
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ristorantevietnamhanoitv/

This was the only non-Italian meal I had during my time in Treviso! If you need a break from pasta, Hanoi Quan is an excellent option. The Vietnamese lunch I ordered there was fresh, filling, and authentic!

Museums

Treviso is a city of art, and there’s no better place to learn about it than the two largest museums in town. Both the Luigi Bailo Museum and the Civic Museums of Treviso house incredible collections of art spanning multiple centuries. In addition, there’s a good chance you’ll get to enjoy the art in peace and at your own pace. When I went, there were only a few other guests. If you want to visit both, you can purchase a combo ticket for thirteen euro (as of August 2022).

Museo Luigi Bailo (Galleria del Novecento)

Address: Borgo Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 24, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.museicivicitreviso.it/en/our-collections/luigi-bailo-museo/luigi-bailo-museum
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MuseiCiviciTreviso/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/museicivicitreviso/

Named after a local art collector, this museum on the northwest side of town features works from the twentieth century. The main hall had some amazing marble statues on display when I went, but this might be a temporary exhibit.

Upstairs, you’ll find some incredibly realistic paintings of battle scenes and other portrayals of life in Italy. There is an eclectic mix of traditional and more modern sculptures on the upper level.

Musei Civici di Treviso (Museo di Santa Caterina)

Address: Piazzetta Botter Mario, 1, 31100 Treviso TV, Italy
Website: https://www.museicivicitreviso.it/en/our-collections/museo-santa-caterina-en/museo-santa-caterina-en
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MuseiCiviciTreviso/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/museicivicitreviso/

If you visit both of these museums, you might notice some architectural similarities, including open-air courtyards. That’s because they were both originally monasteries!

This campus has older works than the Luigi Bailo Museum, including some ancient mosaics and frescoes that are only partially intact. The basement has exhibits on archaeological artifacts, including things like spearheads.

Other Attractions

Beyond its museums, Treviso doesn’t have a ton of activities to do. Nonetheless, the following landmarks can serve as a guide for exploring the rest of town on foot.

Piazza dei Signori

Treviso’s historic center has multiple public squares, but Piazza dei Signori is the most prominent. It’s home to a large building that has elements reminiscent of a castle, which actually serves as city hall. There are also shops and restaurants on all sides of the plaza.

Fontana Delle Tette

Are you curious what this fountain’s name means in English? Once you see it, I think you’ll be able to figure it out! She is tucked away in a shady alcove not far from Piazza dei Signori, and you can actually drink this water if you’re thirsty.

Sile River

The Sile River is Treviso’s largest waterway. It runs along the south edge of the walled city, and it’s just as pretty and green as Treviso’s smaller canals.

City Gates

Treviso’s fortified old town is surrounded by a moat (and in some places, a wall). In order to enter or leave the city center, you might pass through a bridged gate such as Porta San Tomaso or Porta Santi Quaranta. They have intricate designs on them and are worth checking out.

Day Trips to Venice

Since I had never been to Northeast Italy before, I wanted to take the opportunity to see Venice. I was concerned that the island city known for its canals would be chaotic, especially in August. That ended up being sort of true, but I’m still glad I went. However, I don’t feel like I need to go back to Venice anytime soon.

It’s easy to take the train between Treviso and Venice, plus it runs all day. The Treviso Centrale station is located here on the south side of town. To get to Venice, disembark at Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia.

Things I Liked About Venice

First and foremost, the urban layout and architecture of Venice are breathtaking. I have never seen any other city like it in all my travels. The canals are gorgeous too, especially with all of the gondolas traversing them. In fact, we were even able to experience the gondolas without spending a fortune by taking the traghetto, a gondola ferry service that crosses the Grand Canal at various points. As of August 2022, it only costs two euro.

We also happened to stumble upon the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, an upscale mall located here. They have a rooftop terrace that allowed us to enter for free (although it looked like it’s often closed for private events). In any case, the panoramic view of Venice from above blew me away. If you have time, you should absolutely try to find an observation deck.

Venice has some neighborhoods that aren’t overrun by tourists, such as parts of Cannaregio. But unfortunately, most of the city seemed pretty crowded. Which brings me to…

Things I Did Not Like About Venice

Signs of overtourism in Venice are blaring, and for my first hour or two there, I tuned them out. But after that, I couldn’t ignore them any longer. Venice is so crowded. It may not necessarily be shoulder to shoulder, but it’s still pretty bad. It almost feels like being in the busiest parts of Manhattan, minus the skyscrapers. The sea of tourists in Venice is one of the city’s defining features.

On top of that, the food scene here didn’t impress me. We went for Japanese food one night, and it ended up being tiny portions for high prices. The service was slow. At another restaurant, I ordered spaghetti with clams that were full of sand. I know shellfish can have a few grains of sand in them, but this was a little excessive. In addition, a lot of restaurants in Venice proudly advertise their “menù turistico.” Isn’t that kind of saying the quiet part out loud?

Lastly, Venice was so hot in August. The city is a mass of built structures that provide relatively little shade during the day. There are almost no trees anywhere, and I never felt much of a breeze. In my opinion, Venice was noticeably hotter than Treviso.

Should you just skip Venice entirely?

This is ultimately a personal decision that you are going to have to make for yourself. There’s an argument to be made that day trippers are the primary cause of overtourism in Venice. It makes sense: day trippers come in, don’t contribute as much to the city’s economy, but still use and erode all of the aging infrastructure. To help offset this, the local government plans to start taxing them in early 2023.

For what it’s worth, I feel like I mitigated my own impact and footprint by spending less time in Venice (about one day in total) and more time in Treviso (about four days). Ultimately, I do think the beauty of Venice is worth seeing. With that said, I can see why the majority of tourists stay for less than 24 hours.

Back to Treviso!

A visit to Treviso is relaxing and refreshing. It’s the perfect place to acquaint oneself with Italian life away from the big cities. I highly recommend it for mindful travelers looking for authentic experiences!

Have you been to Treviso before? Are you interested in checking it out? Leave a comment and let me know! I always love to hear from my readers!

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This post was published on Aug 9, 2020

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Is Amsterdam Worth Visiting? 10 Reasons For And Against

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 02 Aug 2022 17:00:00 +0000

Is Amsterdam Worth Visiting? 10 Reasons For And Against

Published August 2, 2022

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Amsterdam is a city that I have many conflicting feelings about (as you might have guessed from the title of this post). My extended family and I recently spent five days in Amsterdam on the tail end of a Viking River Cruise along the Rhine. It was great opportunity to get to know this bustling city famous for its canals, Red Light District, and progressive social policies.

This post will highlight six reasons in favor of visiting Amsterdam, then present four reasons against visiting. In the end, I’ll reveal whether I think this city is worth visiting or not. To skip down to any of those sections, click or tap the corresponding link below!

Six Reasons For Visiting Amsterdam
Four Reasons Against Visiting Amsterdam
Final Verdict: Is Amsterdam Worth Visiting?

Six Reasons For Visiting Amsterdam

1. The city center is truly beautiful.

Let’s set my mixed feelings on Amsterdam aside for a second and agree that the heart of Amsterdam, or Centrum, is uniquely pretty. The stunning architecture here is a product of Amsterdam’s former status as the economic center of Europe during the colonial period. We learned on one of our tours that the Dutch taxation system historically incentivized townhomes and warehouses to become narrower and narrower, which is why buildings here are so characteristically thin.

In addition, the canals keep the main roads feeling wide, open, and sunny despite the densely packed homes. The water also reflects the pretty colors of various façades, which make it easy to take great pictures.

Amsterdam also has a few iconic churches worth checking out, including De Oude Kerk, Westerkerk, and Basilica van de Heilige Nicolaas. The Amsterdam Centraal Station is also architecturally stunning.

2. Bike tours here are lots of fun!

Did you know the Netherlands has more bikes than people? That lifestyle stands in stark contrast to the car-centric urban sprawl that many Americans are used to, and I frankly think it’s worth experiencing first-hand. We booked a group bicycle tour (“Bill’s Bike Tour”) with a company called Tours & Travels Amsterdam, and it ended up being one of the highlights of our time here.

Our guide did an excellent job of showing us parts of the city that are off the beaten path. This was great because we avoided both tourist crowds and other cyclists.

The tour was centered around Westerpark, a large green space on the city’s northern side. We also took our bikes on a free ferry up to Amsterdam-Noord. This is an industrial and artsy part of town across the IJ (the city’s widest river running west to east). While there, we got to see a ton of graffiti and learned about how the area is quickly gentrifying and pushing artists further away from the city center.

Our tour ended with a visit to the Tony Chocoloney Home (flagship) Store. For those unfamiliar, this chocolate company’s goal is to shine a light on corporate giants in the industry for their use of slave and child labor. They do this by vocally advertising their own (more) ethical supply chains. It’s a fascinating and innovative way to pressure multinational food conglomerates to do better.

As someone who hasn’t ridden a bike in years, I had no issues in terms of stamina or difficulty on this tour. It should also be noted that the tour did not provide helmets. In fact, no bikers in Amsterdam wear helmets! According to our guide, there is an anti-helmet sentiment in the city because of the message it sends (that bikes are dangerous). This was a really interesting insight into the local mindset and culture around bicycles.

I think the main reason this tour was so good was that our guide didn’t attempt to bring us to the very center of the city (the vicinity of Amsterdam Centraal Station). That would’ve been so crazy and chaotic! The neighborhoods we biked through near Westerpark were still lovely, but had much calmer and quieter streets.

3. The Anne Frank House can't be missed.

Whether you’ve read Anne Frank’s “The Diary of a Young Girl” recently, many years ago, or not at all, I highly recommend you visit the Anne Frank House while in Amsterdam. Tickets must be booked online for a timed entrance, but it is worth planning for.

The visit begins with a walk at your own pace through a museum that was built next to the home. Exhibits introduce you to the lives of the Frank family and the historical context for their going into hiding. As you learn more, you eventually enter the hidden annex where Anne Frank stayed for over two years. It’s a visceral and emotional experience that can’t be put into words.

There is no photography allowed inside the museum or the house. I think this really adds to the experience. We all put our phones away, and everyone was fully present during our visit. The most shocking thing for me was the speed at which discrimination and oppression turned into full-scale genocide in Nazi-occupied Europe. It’s a warning to the world, and one that humanity hasn’t always done a great job of heeding after World War II.

The Anne Frank House may make visitors uncomfortable, but that’s kind of the point. Book your tickets early and be sure not to miss the opportunity to learn about this integral part of Dutch history.

4. You can cruise the canals on a boat tour.

Amsterdam’s canals are pretty enough that they’re worth seeing both on foot and by boat. Many canal cruises are only an hour, which means you don’t have to dedicate an entire day to this fun outing. The one we went on offered beer, wine, and soft drinks plus some narration about what we were seeing. However, our guide didn’t have a microphone, so she was at times hard to hear over the engine of the boat or other background noise.

5. Public transportation is excellent.

Getting around Amsterdam is pretty straightforward. First off, the city is incredibly dense, which means walking from one destination to the next is usually possible. If you need to go a little further, there are metros, trams, buses, and “Sprinter” trains. In general, Google Maps seems pretty integrated with all of the various systems.

6. Day trips from Amsterdam make it easy to see the rural side of the Netherlands.

The Netherlands is a small country, so Amsterdam is pretty close to lots of small towns in all directions. We booked a day trip to the historic village of Zaanse Schans, had lunch in Volendam, and then took the ferry to Marken. Even though it rained all day, I’m so glad I got to see these rural areas north of the Dutch capital.

Zaanse Schans is a town where visitors can see authentic old Dutch architecture, including both the interior and exterior of windmills. We also witnessed an impressive wooden clog manufacturing demonstration. Some might call Zaanse Schans a tourist trap (and maybe it is), but I still liked it.

After that, we stopped at the Henri Willig cheese farm. Employees gave a short presentation about how they raise their cows and how they age the cheese. The visit culminated in a visit to their large gift shop, where they sell dozens of different flavors of cheese and offer lots and lots of free samples.

For lunch, our group was driven further north to the seaside town of Volendam. This area is famous for its locally sourced eel, so I had to try it at Smit-Bokkum restaurant. It was very tasty but not overly fishy!

To end the day, we took a slow ferry from Volendam to Marken. This tiny settlement of only about 2,000 residents is connected to the mainland via a manmade dyke, so our driver met us there and brought us back into Amsterdam.

If Zaanse Schans and Volendam don’t interest you, there are many other places you could spend a day instead. My point here is, the Dutch countryside is a totally different world than the city streets of Amsterdam, and it’s worth seeing if you can.

Four Reasons Against Visiting Amsterdam

1. The city center is crowded and hectic.

I’m going to be blunt: Amsterdam is crowded. All of those beautiful canals and narrow homes (and the drinking and partying scene) draw massive crowds from all over the world. Given that this is the first year that things are genuinely almost “back to normal” after the pandemic, I can only imagine that the crowding here is going to get worse as the decade goes on.

In addition, the number of cyclists can be a little overwhelming, at least for your first day or two. You really have to be careful and alert at all times. Bikes functionally have the right of way over pedestrians, so I don’t recommend walk around with your nose buried in your phone. You also have to watch out for tram lanes in addition to bike and car lanes.

Now, don’t get me wrong: I think it’s amazing that Amsterdam is a city that doesn’t require residents and visitors to have a car! In fact, even though foot traffic and bicycle traffic can be overwhelming, there are relatively few motor vehicles on the road. It’s one thing you won’t have to worry about (as much). But bikes are quiet and can sneak up on you, so the flow of traffic takes some getting used to.

2. Some parts of town aren't very picturesque.

Amsterdam is not a city of skyscrapers, but it is incredibly dense. It’s so dense, in fact, that there is literally no space between buildings. In some districts, this adds to the beauty of the homes and streets. However, in other areas, simplistic architectural designs appear to be repeated over and over again, spanning entire city blocks.

This is obviously a matter of opinion, and most cities have sections that aren’t so quaint. With that said, some outskirts of the city were surprisingly drab and dull.

3. The food scene here wasn't my favorite.

The first thing I noticed about Amsterdam’s restaurant scene is how international it is. There are lots of options and offerings from all over the world. Despite this, the food in Amsterdam just wasn’t my favorite. Every meal I had was good, but none of them really stood out as fantastic.

In terms of local food, the most prominent specialty is Dutch pancakes. There are so many pancake houses around town, so I suggest you try at least one. We had brunch one day at De Carrousel Pannenkoeken, a fun restaurant with a circus-themed interior. We tried poffertjes, which are a traditional Dutch plate of mini pancake bites. They’re delicious but very sweet, so an English breakfast split among four of us was perfect for offsetting some of the powdered sugar on the poffertjes.

4. Amsterdam is expensive.

There’s no getting around this one. Amsterdam is expensive. Everything from food and drink to metro tickets is more expensive here than in many other parts of Europe. If you’re looking to stretch your dollar or euro as far as it’ll go, the Netherlands is probably not the best place to do that.

Final Verdict: Is Amsterdam Worth Visiting?

You’ve seen the good, you’ve seen the bad. So is Amsterdam worth visiting at least once? I’d say yes. It still offers a unique travel experience, and all of the organized tours we went on surpassed my expectations. However, I think you’ll enjoy your trip a bit more if you know what to expect and what to watch out for.

Would I go back?

I’m not opposed to returning to Amsterdam someday, but I’m going to prioritize other capitals of Europe first. With that said, I am still intrigued by the country of the Netherlands. I’d be much more interested in checking out some of the other towns, cities, villages, and coastal areas there than returning to Amsterdam.

Have you been to Amsterdam or any other part of the Netherlands? Did you love it, hate it, or fall somewhere in between? Are you headed to this city of canals soon? Leave a comment and let me know! Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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This post was published on Aug 2, 2022

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post Is Amsterdam Worth Visiting? 10 Reasons For And Against appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

One Day In Strasbourg, France: My Favorite Rhine River Cruise Stop

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Fri, 29 Jul 2022 17:00:00 +0000

One Day In
Strasbourg,
France:
My Favorite Rhine River Cruise Stop

One Day In Strasbourg, France: My Favorite Rhine River Cruise Stop

Published July 29, 2022

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

A Rhine River cruise between Switzerland and the Netherlands is one of the most enchanting ways to explore a large section of Western Europe. The cities and towns along the Rhine are all so quaint, with rich histories shaped by the river. You can tell that many of these cities were centers of cultural exchange, influenced by military struggles to control the strategic waterway.

All of these things are especially true of Strasbourg, a French city with a German-sounding name. Strasbourg sits almost on the border of the two countries in the region of Alsace. Today, it is one of the Europe’s most important cities. That’s because many European governmental institutions are based in Strasbourg.

I recently went on a Viking Rhine River Cruise, and we docked in many beautiful places in France and Germany. However, Strasbourg was probably my favorite stop. If you’re planning on spending a day in this fascinating city, this post will explain what you’ll have time to see and do! Below is a list of the different attractions I found noteworthy.

Petite France
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg
Neustadt
Krutenau
Food in Strasbourg

Petite France

This beautiful district is the perfect place to start exploring Strasbourg in the morning. It’s quieter than the area surrounding the Notre Dame Cathedral, but it’s just as quaint. Petite France is known for its idyllic canals and half-timbered buildings. That’s the name for the distinctive German architectural style that has wooden support beams on the exterior of buildings, as shown in the photos below.

We were briefly introduced to Petite France during our walking tour of Strasbourg led by Viking Cruises. However, I’m glad I came back later in the day to spend a bit more time here. The waterways and the colorful homes make Petite France such a picturesque area!

On the west end of Petite France, you’ll encounter the Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg, a series of old brick towers and bridges that cross the canals. This happened to be where our guided tour of the city began.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s Notre-Dame Cathedral is the city’s most famous landmark. Like the majority of things featured in this post, this massive church is located on Grande Île, an island that comprises the historic center of town. As you can see on the map below, various bridges connect Grande Île to the rest of the city.

The massive Notre-Dame Cathedral dominates the city’s skyline. That’s because at 466 feet tall (142 meters), it is one of the tallest churches in the world. That height may not sound extremely impressive compared to today’s modern skyscrapers, but the following facts from the church’s Wikipedia page give a better sense of just how exceptional it is.

This was the tallest building in the world from 1647 to 1874 (over 200 years).
It is the sixth-tallest church in the world at the time of writing.
The Strasbourg Cathedral took over 400 years to be built, and was completed in 1439.
It is the tallest still-standing structure built entirely during the Middle Ages.

Pictures of the cathedral don’t do it justice, either. In person, its intricate brown sandstone exterior and somewhat asymmetric design (with only one spire that’s not centered) make it one of the most memorable churches I’ve ever visited.

If you’re visiting Strasbourg on a guided tour organized by a cruise, they will probably bring you inside the church. The interior is absolutely worth seeing, especially the astronomical clock that can be found towards the front of the sanctuary.

Finally, I highly recommend climbing the spiral staircase to see the surrounding cityscape from the top of the church. This was not included on our Viking River Cruise excursion, but I’m glad I did it on my own.

A long winding staircase can be a little disorienting and tiring, but there are little platforms to step to the side and catch your breath if you need to. At the very least, this cathedral had one-way foot traffic on two separate staircases (one for going up, one for coming down). That isn’t always the case!

On a nice sunny day, the view from up above really is spectacular. Strasbourg is a beautiful city, including its rooftops!

Neustadt

Located directly northeast of Grande Île, this neighborhood has a German name that means “New Town.” As that name suggests, the architecture here does generally look newer than in the historic center, but it’s still impressive. The Jardin de la Place de la République is a nice area to walk around, and the Église réformée Saint-Paul is another beautiful church to see on the Ill River.

Krutenau

Krutenau is the lively area southeast of Grande Île. I only had a brief walk through, but the riverfront walk is quaint. It offers views of the Palais Rohan and the Église réformée Saint-Paul in Neustadt.

Food in Strasbourg

The most famous dish in Strasbourg is sauerkraut, so some family members and I definitely wanted to try it. After some browsing, we ended up at Aux Armes de Strasbourg, a local restaurant on Gutenberg Square. We got two appetizers: escargot, plus a plate that had shredded veggies, a small salad, and a breaded cold meat item that I don’t know the name of. I liked the escargot, and the fresh veggies were fine, but that bread and meat thing was a little odd to me.

For my main dish, I got “choucroute des Armes 6 garnitures, pommes nature” which was translated into English as “sauerkraut with 6 trimmings, steamed potatoes.” I don’t know exactly what I was expecting, but I think the word ‘garnitures’ made me think of ‘garnishes.’ I was probably expecting the dish to come with sauerkraut and six small sides, maybe some veggies, maybe some small meat portions. Instead, it came with a mountain of meat! There was so much that it completely covered the sauerkraut, and it just ended up being a ton of food. However, all those sausages, potatoes, and other bits didn’t have a ton of flavor.

If I’m being honest, this wasn’t my favorite meal during our time in France and Germany. I’m glad we tried to find local food and didn’t just settle for a burger or pizza in Strasbourg, but the sauerkraut plate wasn’t amazing. You might want to research food options a little more in depth before arriving. Or if you’re coming in on a cruise, ask the program director for lunch recommendations in town!

Make the Most of a Day in Strasbourg!

Other than our underwhelming lunch, Strasbourg really impressed me. I wish I had more time to explore, but short visits are what you get when you’re traveling by cruise!

If you’re about to embark on a day trip to Strasbourg, I hope this blog post has been helpful for planning purposes! Are you headed that way soon? Will you be visiting as part of a Rhine River cruise? Leave a comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading, and enjoy your time in this historic city!

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This post was published on July 29, 2022

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post One Day In Strasbourg, France: My Favorite Rhine River Cruise Stop appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

A Viking Rhine River Cruise Review: Basel To Amsterdam

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 23 Jul 2022 17:00:00 +0000

A Viking Rhine River Cruise Review: Basel To Amsterdam

Published July 23, 2022

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

After two long years of pandemic restrictions, Europe is fully open again! I’m lucky to have an extended family of fellow travel enthusiasts, and we’ve all been looking forward to a reunion vacation in Western Europe for a while now! A Viking River cruise seemed like the perfect offering for a group of eight people spanning three generations. This post is a review of my time on the Viking Hermod as it sailed down the Rhine.

Viking offers various Rhine River cruise itineraries, and the one we booked was called the “Rhine Getaway.” As of summer 2022, this cruise is eight days long and spans four countries: Switzerland, Germany, France, and the Netherlands. We traveled from Basel to Amsterdam, but it can be booked in the opposite direction as well.

This post is a review of this particular Rhine River cruise. But on a side note, this was also my first time cruising! If you’re interested in learning about what it was like to experience Viking River Cruises as a first-time cruise passenger, check out my separate post [coming soon]!

Day Trip Itinerary
Cruise Review
Final Thoughts

Day Trip Itinerary

The first half of this post is a review of the Rhine Getaway ports of call. I liked all of the cities we stopped in, but some were more impressive than others. To learn more, read on! To skip down to the second half of this post (a review of the ship and its amenities), click here.

Day 1: Boarding in Basel

This cruise began in Basel, a quaint little town in Switzerland right on the border of both Germany and France. If you can spend a day or two in Basel before your cruise, I highly recommend it. We booked a walking tour with a local guide (independent of Viking), and I’m really glad we did.

Viking allowed us to board the Hermod in the early afternoon, which gave us plenty of time to get acquainted with the layout of the ship. Our first dinner was served, and finally we were off in the early evening. We passed through our first of many river locks on this night, which is one of the most noteworthy aspects of a Rhine River cruise.

If you’re wondering how we made it to Basel, we flew from Chicago into Zürich and then booked a private car transfer. Zürich Airport is the nearest major international airport to Basel, and the drive is about an hour. There are also frequent trains that run between Switzerland’s largest city and its gateway to the Rhine.

Day 2: Breisach

The Hermod pulled into its first port of call very early in the morning, which meant we had a full day to explore Breisach, a small village in Germany. I actually decided to skip the included tour (a bus trip to the Black Forest) in the morning and walk across the French border to the village of Neuf-Brisach. I did this completely on my own; it wasn’t a part of the Viking itinerary at all.

Neuf-Brisach is a sleepy little French town that is surrounded on all sides by a visually stunning series of fortified walls. These walls were designed by French architect Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban to help protect border outposts from invasion. You can’t make out the geometry of the walled city from the ground level, but you can explore the city streets and get some sense of their architecture.

In the afternoon, I went back to Breisach and explored its most famous landmark: the Breisacher Münster St. Stephan, a beautiful brown church that towers over the rest of the town.

The interior of the Breisacher Münster is interesting, but my favorite part of this cathedral is its view from the top of the hill overlooking the village.

Apart from the church, Breisach feels pretty touristy. If you have extra time and want to walk around the town, feel free to. But if you don’t have time or want to rest on the ship instead, you probably won’t miss out on too much.

Day 3: Strasbourg

Strasbourg is a fascinating city that’s much larger than Breisach. Due to its location on the Rhine, Strasbourg has a unique mix of French and German cultural elements. It’s also home to a number of European Union institutions, although the Viking itinerary doesn’t include any tours to these government offices. They are clustered in an outlying district of the city.

Instead, we explored Strasbourg’s historic center, based mostly on Grande Île. Here you’ll find the famous Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, a staggering gothic cathedral that was actually the tallest building in the world from 1647 to 1874!

The other area I really liked in Strasbourg was Petite-France. This tiny neighborhood is split up by canals that are lined with gorgeous half-timbered homes (the iconic style of German architecture with wood beams on the exterior). We walked through here on our guided tour, and I came back afterwards to enjoy the views for a bit longer.

Strasbourg was probably my favorite day trip on our cruise, so I’ve written a separate blog post about the city. Check it out using the image link below!

Day 4: Speyer and Rüdesheim am Rhein

This was my least favorite day of the cruise, mainly because we only had a few hours in both Speyer and Rüdesheim. I feel like we did get to see slightly more of the former than the latter, but both stops were rushed.

Speyer

Speyer is a small city on the western bank of the Rhine. Some notable landmarks include the Dom zu Speyer (Speyer Cathedral) and the Altpörtel (Old Gate) directly west of there. The two are connected by the short Maximilianstraße, which serves as the main street in the historic district.

Viking offered a short included tour, then we had about an hour or so to explore on our own. There are some other interesting churches a little further inland, or you could check out the many side alleys that branch off of the Maximilianstraße.

Speyer seemed like an interesting town. I would’ve enjoyed spending more time there. However, as I mentioned above, this is only a half-day stop. Before lunch, we met in the Domplatz and boarded buses that brought us back to the ship. We sailed for a couple hours before making our second stop of the day in…

Rüdesheim am Rhein

At this point in the cruise, the Rhine starts to become much more scenic. Beautiful villages and vineyards can be seen in all directions. Rüdesheim is a touristy town known for its wineries and historic center, called the Drosselgasse. Viking doesn’t offer an included tour here, so I explored on my own. However, since we docked in the late afternoon, time felt even more limited here than in Speyer.

I took a short walk through the Drosselgasse, but I was much more intrigued by all the hilly vineyards overlooking the town. There’s even a chairlift that goes up, hinting that the views up there would be good! I walked up the Oberstraße, which turns into the Germaniastraße. Finally, I turned left onto this paved trail. The panoramic views were indeed incredible!

Day 5: Cruise through the Rhine Gorge; Stop in Koblenz

As you leave Rüdesheim, the Rhine River goes from picturesque to spectacular. This day of voyaging through the Rhine Valley is the centerpiece of the entire trip. The surrounding landscape becomes more dramatic. I loved seeing the patchwork of vineyards on the steep mountainsides, but the coolest part of the day is seeing all the castles.

There are so many of them! You truly pass one castle every few minutes once you enter the Rhine Gorge. Our cruise Program Director also provided a running commentary on all of the things we were seeing as we sailed by. There’s something incredible about seeing these archaic stone structures from various angles as you move along the water.

Since we spent the first half of Day 5 cruising, the city of Koblenz was another half-day stop. However, our time here didn’t feel as rushed as the whirlwind tours on Day 4. Koblenz is a tourist hub that’s noticeably bigger than Speyer and Rüdesheim. I walked all over the Altstadt (Old Town), which is right next to the Viking River Cruises Dock.

The other main activity in Koblenz is taking the cable car to the other side of the river. Here you’ll find Festung Ehrenbreitstein, a sprawling nineteenth century fortress that overlooks the town. Visiting the fortress was interesting, but there didn’t seem to be much signage in English, so I don’t feel like I learned a lot about its history while I was there.

One other noteworthy attraction on the southern edge of the Altstadt is Kurfürstliches Schloss Koblenz. This ornate white palace is surrounded by impeccably maintained gardens that seem to serve as a public square for the city.

Day 6: Cologne (Köln)

Cologne is the largest city this cruise stops in, so there wasn’t enough time to explore all that I wanted to. With that said, we at least had a full day docked here. The included Viking tour served as a brief introduction to the riverfront and Kölner Dom, the city’s massive iconic cathedral. After that, we had the rest of the day to explore on our own.

I thought the main sanctuary of the cathedral was stunning, but I actually didn’t really like climbing the church tower. The views from the top were fine but not as stunning as some of the other panoramic views I saw on this cruise (e.g. in Breisach or Strasbourg). More importantly, the climb is essentially one long spiral staircase – with visitors going both directions on it! It felt kind of dangerous. Frankly, being on a spiral staircase for that long with only the occasional narrow gothic window was disorienting and dizzying. If you want to climb a church tower, I suggest going up to the top of the Notre-Dame in Strasbourg instead.

After visiting the cathedral, I walked across the Hohenzollernbrücke, which is one of the most notable “love lock” bridges in Europe. Yes, I know this is a trend that’s swept almost the entire world, but the number of locks on the Hohenzollern Bridge is still a sight to behold.

The last thing I did in Cologne was visit the Museum Ludwig. It was hosting a fascinating temporary exhibit featuring the works of Isamu Noguchi. I’m not the biggest museum enthusiast, but the Ludwig ended up being very captivating.

Day 7: Cruise through the Dutch Countryside; Stop in Kinderdijk

In all honesty, the Rhine (which turns into the Waal) is less scenic in the Netherlands than it is in Germany. You’re no longer surrounded by hills, vineyards, and castles. Instead, the riverbanks are flat and sandy here.

Our final shore excursion ended up being a really fascinating one: a guided tour of Kinderdijk, a ‎UNESCO World Heritage Site on the outskirts of Rotterdam famous for its windmills. Our tour guide did an excellent job of introducing us to the history and purpose of mills in the Netherlands.

The landscape here is so pretty, and one of the highlights of this visit was being able to see the inside of a mill. All in all, a short visit to Kinderdijk was a great way to wrap up our final full day on the Viking Hermod.

Day 8: Disembark in Amsterdam

The Netherlands is a small country, and Kinderdijk is only about 95 kilometers (59 miles) away from Amsterdam. As such, the Hermod was already passing through Utrecht by bedtime. We docked at Amsterdam very early in the morning on our final day.

There were no day tours of Amsterdam organized by Viking on Day 8, but we were allowed to stay on the boat until the late afternoon (with lunch included). However, we did have to vacate our staterooms by 8:00 a.m. so that the cleaning crew could start preparing for the next cruise.

After checking out, guests are free to go on their way. I assume that most people flew out of Amsterdam within a day or two of ending the cruise. However, we stayed for five extra days in Amsterdam and met up with a few more family members there! I had mixed feelings about this bustling Dutch metropolis, which I’ve written about in a separate blog post.

Cruise Review

Now that you’ve seen the itinerary for the Rhine Getaway, the second half of this post will include some information about the actual cruising experience on Viking.

Impressions of the Rhine River

If you’re considering booking this cruise for yourself, you might be wondering: what is the Rhine River actually like between Basel and Amsterdam? Well, in my opinion it seemed to have three distinct sections. From Basel until Speyer (Day 1 to Day 4), the Rhine feels very industrial. It’s lined by factories, and to be honest, the river is not amazing here (although the cities along it are). Luckily, the boat sailed at night through the Upper Rhine, so it’s not like we really missed out on much.

From Speyer to Cologne (Day 4 to Day 6), the Rhine River is incredibly scenic. Viking did a great job of scheduling so that passengers could enjoy the view from the boat during the day on this portion of the trip. The vineyards, villages, and castles of the Middle Rhine are undoubtedly the river’s most unique offerings.

In the Netherlands, the Rhine (or Waal) has a rural vibe to it. We passed cows cooling off in the shallow riverbanks, a few small Dutch villages, and not much else until we approached Amsterdam. The Lower Rhine is not as industrial as the Upper Rhine, and it’s not as picturesque as the Middle Rhine.

The Viking Cruise Ship

The most noteworthy thing about this cruise ship is its capacity: only about 200 passengers. There are four levels, and each room has a window. The ship has one single dining room that can accommodate all passengers at one time, an indoor lounge, a terrace, plus an open-air deck on top that runs the length of the ship.

Food and Drink

The meals on our Viking Cruise were consistently amazing! I really looked forward to coming back on board after each excursion or tour to enjoy whatever was being served that day.

What’s more, Viking offered specialties from each region we were passing through. I loved the fact that I got to try Swiss, German, French, and Dutch food all onboard! They also have a permanent menu that includes classics like Caesar salad, steak, and burgers, but I ordered most of my meals from their rotating menu.

The Viking breakfast buffet is also excellent! The omelette station is absolutely worth waiting in line for, plus it moves along fairly quickly.

Of course, you could always eat at local restaurants while you’re exploring the cities along the Rhine. We did that once or twice, but the food on the ship was so delicious that I rarely wanted to pass it up.

Should you get the drink package?

You’ll have to make this decision for yourself, but beer and wine are included with each meal even if you don’t purchase the unlimited drink package. I did the math, and you’d basically have to drink two additional cocktails each day (outside of lunch and dinner) to make the package worthwhile. I enjoy drinking to be sure, but I would typically have wine with my meals and limit myself to one cocktail per day. My total bar tab came out to be about 90 euro for the entire trip.

Like the food, all of the alcoholic drinks on this cruise were expertly crafted. Everything tasted great, and they were never watered down or too strong. They even made a great White Russian, which is one of my favorite cocktails!

Shore Excursions

At every port of call, Viking offered one included (free) tour. These tended to be walking tours that lasted about two hours and introduced guests to the various cities. In general, I’d say these tours were pretty good. However, if you’d rather explore one of the stops on your own (or even stay on the ship), you are more than welcome to skip any of the tours.

You can also pre-book one of many “Optional Excursions,” which are tours that you’ll have to pay extra for. I never did any of the Optional Excursions, so I can’t say if they were better or worse than the included tours.

Amenities Onboard

The Viking Hermod was not a massive vessel. As such, it didn’t have all of the amenities that some other cruise ships might. There was no pool, casino, food court, gym, bowling alley, nightclub, etc. Part of this is because Viking’s clientele seems to skew older: my cousin, my brother, and I (in our twenties or late teens) were the youngest passengers on board. Viking River Cruises does not allow minors, so there are no amenities specifically aimed at kids.

Despite this, the Viking Hermod had a beautifully designed interior. The atrium and dining room were both warm and inviting spaces. The lounge and front terraces were comfortable places to sit, relax, or sip a drink. The ship’s common spaces never felt cramped, even when all the passengers were gathered together (e.g. during dinnertime).

I also found the stateroom to be comfortably sized. There is lots of space to store your luggage, and I found that the bathroom and shower weren’t too small.

Entertainment and Activities

One thing I really loved about this cruise was that there were lots of fun optional activities onboard the ship in the afternoons and evenings. Our family group enjoyed game nights and musical performances, but you could also attend things like a glassblowing demonstration or a Q&A session with the captains of the ship.

Final Thoughts

Longtime readers of my blog will know that I don’t shy away from giving my honest opinion when it comes to travel. If an attraction is overrated, I will tell you that. If a tour is underwhelming, I will tell you that. With that in mind, I’m happy to report that this Viking River Cruise was an outstanding experience! I’ll cherish the memory of going down the Rhine with my extended family for the rest of my life.

Was the cruise perfect? No. I really would’ve preferred a little more time in fewer stops. If I could offer one suggestion to Viking, I’d say either choose Speyer or Rüdesheim am Rhein, and spend the entire day there. However, cruising through the Rhine Gorge the next day made up for it. Sailing past all those castles was the highlight of this cruise.

If you’re looking for an upscale travel experience in Western Europe, consider Viking’s Rhine Getaway. I had never been to Switzerland, Germany, France, or the Netherlands before this trip. Now, I can’t wait to go back and explore all four of those countries in greater depth! It’s safe to say this cruise inspired even more wanderlust in me. By that metric, I’d say it was a resounding success!

Have you ever been on a Viking River Cruise before? Are you about to embark on one? Leave a comment below and let me know! I’m curious if other travelers loved this cruise as much as I do!

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This post was published on July 23, 2022

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Bangkok (Sept)
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Exploring Switzerland Before Or After A Rhine River Cruise

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:00:00 +0000

Exploring Switzerland Before Or After A Rhine River Cruise

Published July 15, 2022

If you’re about to embark on a Rhine River cruise, there’s a good chance that you’ll be starting or ending your journey in Switzerland! That’s because the Rhine River begins in the Swiss Alps and flows towards the Netherlands. This blog post will explain how you can make the most of a few days in Switzerland before or after a cruise!

My extended family flew from Chicago to Zürich, where we spent one full day touring. The next morning, we took a private van transfer to the smaller city of Basel located on the Rhine. We did some sightseeing there, then boarded our Viking Cruise ship the following afternoon. To skip down to any individual attraction listed below, click or tap on the corresponding link!

Exploring Zürich For a Day or Two
Exploring Basel For a Day or Two
First Impressions of Switzerland

Exploring Zürich For a Day or Two

As Switzerland’s largest city, Zürich certainly feels like a bustling urban center. However, with a metropolitan population of only about two million, it’s not exactly sprawling or chaotic. Zürich’s skyline is also defined by church spires and clock towers instead of modern skyscrapers, giving it a distinctly older vibe.

Zürich Hauptbahnhof (HB)

This massive train station serves as the very heart of the city center. It may not be the most picturesque place, but we used Zürich HB to orient ourselves on our first day since our hotel was only a block or two away.

The station has a large underground mall attached to it with shops and restaurants. The area directly south of Zürich HB is also a busy pedestrian district with more dining and retail options.

Walk Along the Limmat River

After a midmorning snack and a brief visit to the train station, we wandered north. We walked by the grand Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum (Swiss National Museum). Then we meandered through the Platzspitz, a small park situated at the meeting point of the Sihl and Limmat Rivers. Continuing north, there is a path on the eastern bank of the Limmat where locals seemed to enjoy sunbathing and jumping into the water.

The riverfront is a quaint area that offers some good views of the city. There are also vendors selling refreshments nearby.

Altstadt (Old Town)

Zürich’s Old Town is not far from the train station, located just across the Limmat River to the east. We visited this area on a guided tour, so we only had time to take a quick look around. Nonetheless, the Altstadt is home to some of the city’s most famous structures, including the iconic twin domes of the Grossmünster.

Take the Ferry Across Zürichsee

This beautiful lake was definitely my favorite part of the city! It’s long and narrow, stretching many miles south of Zürich into the rolling green hills of the nearby countryside. However, you don’t need to leave the city to see the lake. A great place to walk along its shores is the Rentenwiese, a popular park in the neighborhood of Enge. There’s a nice view of the Springbrunnen Aquaretum, a picturesque fountain a few hundred feet offshore.

After a quick stop at Rentenwiese, our tour driver brought us down the eastern side of the lake to Meilen. Not only is the drive really pretty, but this is also where you can take the ferry across the lake to the western side! The boat ride only takes a few minutes, but I loved the views as we crossed the bright blue water.

Ride the Cable Car at Felsenegg

Since we were now on the western bank of Zürichsee, our tour guides drove us up to Felsenegg, a scenic viewpoint outside of the village of Adliswil. There’s also a restaurant up here, so we ordered a quick dinner. After that, we took the cable car from the top to the bottom of the mountain. The views of the city, the lake, and the villages were amazing!

Exploring Basel For a Day or Two

I honestly liked Basel more than Zürich. It’s much smaller, and Basel feels like a quirkier town (in a good way)! An amazing local guide brought us on a walking tour and introduced us to the main sites. Then, we explored a bit on our own. Here are some of the things we saw.

Tinguely Fountain

Perhaps my favorite landmark in Basel is this whimsical fountain located here. It was created in the late 1970s by Swiss artist Jean Tinguely. Apparently, a theater used to stand in this spot, so Tinguely incorporated old stage props into his fountain.

The fountain contains multiple characters that each have their own unique motions involving streams and flows of water. All of the movements are very fluid and natural, giving the fountain an almost lifelike feel. Since all of the motions are on a loop, the Tinguely Fountain is a mesmerizing piece of dynamic art!

Basler Münster

Basel’s most prominent cathedral should not be missed. Its distinctive brown sandstone exterior and green patterned roof are some of the things that make it unique. We learned about the church’s exterior and history on our walking tour, but sadly we didn’t have time to check out the inside for more than a minute or two. I would’ve also loved to climb this cathedral’s tower! I bet the view from up there can’t be beat.

In front of the Basler Münster is a large public square. It seemed pretty and empty and quiet while we were there, but we enjoyed trying the fresh mountain water from one of the city’s many public drinking fountains.

Be sure to also go around to the back of the Basler Münster. You’ll find an open-air balcony here that offers truly views of the Rhine River!

Explore Altstadt Grossbasel

The Old Town in Basel is a fascinating part of the city with a variety of architectural styles, bars and restaurants, and access to the Rhine. One of the most eye-catching buildings is the Basler Rathaus, or town hall. It has a deep red exterior that stands out among the other buildings on the Marktplatz.

The Alstadt is also only a block away from the Rhine River, and two bridges cross from Grossbasel on the west to Kleinbasel on the east. I walked briefly through Kleinbasel, but I wish I had more time to explore that newer, up-and-coming part of the city in more depth.

Visit a Museum

Did you know that Basel is famous for its world-class museums? There are so many of them throughout the city, so you should check out at least one or two while you’re here!

I decided to visit the Kunstmuseum (Fine Arts Museum). It houses a massive collection of fine art that spans the centuries, but I was really impressed with some of the landscape paintings on display. There is also a lot of old religious art here.

One other important note: be sure to utilize your BaselCard if you’re spending the night in a local hotel! The card is included with your stay, and it offers tons of benefits, including free public transportation and major discounts on local museums and other attractions. I was able to get half off at the Kunstmuseum by presenting my BaselCard!

Rhine River Cruise Boarding

On our second afternoon in Basel, we boarded our Viking ship at this location. It’s an industrial riverfront area near the border with both Germany and France. After getting settled on the ship, I walked further north and found the Dreiländereck, a modern-looking monument marking the border.

Once we started sailing, it only took a few minutes to leave Swiss waters. If you’re curious about what our Viking Cruise was like as we sailed down the Rhine towards Amsterdam, be sure to check out the separate blog post I wrote about that!

First Impressions of Switzerland

After scratching the surface of both Zürich and Basel on my first trip to Switzerland, I must say the country left a very favorable first impression on me. I’m already aiming to go back within the next year or two! However, there were just a few points I think are worth mentioning to anyone who’s headed here as part of a Rhine River cruise.

One thing that stood out to me was just how expensive Switzerland is! Prices generally seemed higher than they are in the US, which is saying a lot given recent inflation. I don’t think there’s any way to avoid spending a lot of money in Switzerland. The best thing you can do is simply be prepared.

Another thing I noticed is that the food here was a little underwhelming. Now, the good news is that Switzerland seems to have a pretty international dining scene. With that said, most meals we had were only good, not great. And as you probably guessed, all the food we bought here was pretty expensive.

Have you been to Switzerland before? Have you ever done a Rhine River cruise? Are you headed that way soon? Leave a comment and let me know! I’m glad to finally get more Europe content on the blog after multiple years of travel restrictions. If you’re headed to Switzerland, have an amazing time; I think you’re going to love it!

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This post was published on July 15, 2022

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

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Beyond The Photo Ops In Santorini, Greece

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 25 Oct 2018 17:00:00 +0000

Beyond the Photo Ops in Santorini,
Greece

Published October 25, 2018

As part of my recent week-long vacation in Greece, I visited Santorini with a friend from high school, Ismael (who, by the way, has made some guest appearances on Caffeinated Excursions in my Philly, Miami, and Nashville posts).

We knew that Santorini would be picturesque, but the beauty of its less-Instagram’ed spots is as stunning as its blue-domed churches and pastel-colored villages. There were also so many different activities to do and things to explore that we roamed the island from morning to night each day.

Before planning a trip, you’ll want to take a look at the geography of the island:

The most famous and popular town for tourism is Oia (pronounced EE-uh), located on the very northern tip of the main island. Another beautiful town called Thira is centrally located, and both have amazing sea views as well as stunning architecture. We stayed in Oia and went to Thira for dinner one night, which is what I’d recommend doing unless you have more than a few days in Santorini.

The highlights of our trip were the amazing views, the locally-made white wine, the delicious cuisine, and the beautiful beaches. This is everything you need to know for a perfect few days in Santorini:

The town of Oia
Day-trip ideas (wine, sailing, and Thira)
Restaurant ideas in Oia
Lodging and transportation

The Town of Oia

The most striking thing about Oia is the labyrinth of stairs and footpaths that run through the village up and down the mountainside. In fact, most houses and buildings in town are only accessible via these paths, and there are no actual roads except for one that runs adjacent to the edge of town. This is why Oia is so iconic and the houses look so densely packed in pictures.

If you stay here, I recommend booking one of Oia’s traditional cave homes which have been carved into the hillside. Read more about it and see what one of them looks like in the section on lodging below.

Amoudi Bay

If you’re willing to climb down a steep trail to get to it, Amoudi Bay is a beautiful part of Oia worth checking out. The bay is surrounded by unusual red rock cliffs and once you get to the water, there are about half a dozen different restaurants that all serve seafood. Read about one of the restaurants right on the water that we ended up trying here.

This is also a great place to catch the sunset if you visit during dusk.

Ideas for Tours and Day Trips

Oia is undoubtedly amazing and beautiful, but you’ll want to be sure to check out other parts of Santorini as well. One way to do this is to rent a car (more on that below), but another good option is to book a tour or two. We did a sailing tour and a wine tour; although both were pricey, they gave us a chance to see the island’s coastline and interior. Plus, our tour guides were excellent!

Boat Tour

For our first full day, we booked a sunset sailing tour, which left from Amoudi Bay (but included hotel pick-up) and then navigated south between the various small islands to the west. The trip stopped at the south end of the island, where we saw a few different beaches before heading back north to catch the sunset.

This cruise was a great introduction to the geography of the island. Our guide told us about the volcanic history of the area as well as how all of the little islands used to be a single, large one a few thousand years ago. You’ll get the chance to swim in a hot spring if you want, and I really enjoyed seeing the vivid stratified layers of rock along Santorini’s shore.

This cruise also included a dinner that the crew cooks on board, as well as bottomless wine!

We booked the tour through Sunset Oia Sailing Cruises which seemed to be one of the most popular day-cruise companies on the island. They have a number of different options for different prices, but the one we booked cost $220 (190 €) per person.

Wine Tour

What better way to see the island than with a glass of wine in hand? This tour was another highlight of our trip because it brought us to three different wineries located in different parts of Santorini. Our guide did an amazing job of introducing us to wine production as well as how to taste and pair them with hors d’oeuvres.

If you are only spending a few days in Santorini, booking both a wine tour and a sailing tour is a great way to see a lot of the island in a short amount of time. Stunning cliffs will surround you on the boat, and you’ll get a glimpse of some of the smaller villages south of Oia that are home to the wineries you’ll visit.

There are a number of companies offering wine tours, but we booked with Santorini Day Tours and were very impressed with them. The three wineries we visited on the tour were Boutari Winery, Gavalas Winery, and Estate Argyros, and if you like anything you try, you can purchase a bottle to bring back home.

This tour lasted about five hours and included hotel pick-up and drop-off. We paid $120 per person, which obviously isn’t very cheap, but I’d say the experience was worth the price.

Dinner in Thira

If you’re going to stay in Oia, consider going to Thira for dinner and drinks one night. Thira is the capital of the island and has a little more to offer than Oia in the way of nightlife. Located about a twenty-five-minute drive south of Oia, it’s also an amazing place to see the sunset.

We ended up trying a nice restaurant called Argo, which specialized in seafood and had an enormous outdoor seating area overlooking the bay to the west. If you’re a fan of escargot, order the snails here as an appetizer; they were delicious!

After dinner, we wandered the town and stopped at a few places for drinks. Two Brothers was definitely the loudest and most rowdy one and felt like a college bar with strong drinks.

A couple on our boat tour recommended PK Cocktail Bar, so we headed there afterwards. They have a heated outdoor terrace and the cocktails were top notch. If you only want to do one bar in Thira, this is the one to go to!

Restaurants in Oia

Thira isn’t the only place with good food options; Oia also has a bunch of excellent restaurants. Because our wine and boat tours included meals and snacks, we only got a chance to try two places in Oia, but everything we had was delicious.

For dinner on our first night, we tried Sunset Ammoudi. It ended up being a bit overpriced, but they have a bunch of tables that are so close to the water that you could fall in if you’ve had a few too many glasses of wine! This made it a great place to watch the sunset while eating.

As you might guess, they mainly have seafood on the menu.

For lunch the next day day, we tried Nikos Place Gril House, which had excellent souvlaki and gyros.

Their sampler appetizer was also great for tasting a variety of Greek flavors.

If you’re looking for a good cup of coffee in the morning, try Meteor Cafe. It’s a cute and cozy little place with a great view. It appeared to also be a bar, but it was my favorite place to get coffee first thing in the morning.

Another good place for drinks in Oia is called Marykay’s Bar. It’s also pretty cozy, but they have a huge list of original cocktails and the ones we tried there were delicious.

Additional Info

Airbnb

It’s probably not going to be cheap, but if you can find one within your budget, consider staying in one of Oia’s traditional cave houses. We stayed at this home and our host was so nice and hospitable that she spent a good half hour at check-in telling us her favorite spots around Santorini.

It’s incredible that these cave homes are built into the rocky hillside, and this one even had a cellar that was used to collect rainwater in days past.

Transportation

Getting to Santorini by Plane

Flying to Santorini from Athens was easy and the journey only took an hour. We booked on Expedia with Sky Express. A one-way ticket from Athens cost 100 Euro.

Leaving by Ferry

Instead of flying, we left Santorini by passenger ferry, although I’m sure a round-trip flight from Athens to Santorini would be as straightforward as a one-way. However, the ferry was an interesting experience that you should consider too.

We booked our tickets through Direct Ferries, but by October, the boats weren’t departing from Santorini every day. Book in advance and don’t miss your boarding, because there may not be another one for a while! Our tickets cost $40 per person.

If you’re curious about the ferry experience, read about it on my other blog post here [coming soon]!

Getting Around on the Island

In order to move around the island, you can either hire taxis or rent a car. In most cases, I think it would be more economical to rent the car, which for us cost 40 Euro per day, while a taxi between Oia and Thira (about a 25-minute ride) cost 30 Euro. We rented a car for one day from Drossos Car Rental and ran into no problems.

On to the Next Island...

By the time we had boarded our ferry and were waving goodbye to Oia, it was clear that Santorini is as magical as we hoped it would be. However, the island is home to so many more beautiful places than the few famous spots that have taken Instagram by storm in recent years. Early autumn proved to be the perfect time to avoid the summer crowds without having to give up the sun and warmth. Personally, I can’t wait to go back to Santorini one day!

After staying in Oia, we headed off to the much quieter island of Milos, which was a completely different experience. Read about it here, or check out my general overview of Greece here [coming soon]! Thanks for checking out my post on Santorini!

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This post was published on Oct 25, 2018

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post Beyond The Photo Ops In Santorini, Greece appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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Exploring The Gothenburg Archipelago (Göteborgs Skärgård): A Visitor’s Guide

The Northern Group

Hönö

Klåvan

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The Southern Group

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Vrångö Lookout Spot (Lotsutkiken)

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Hamnkrogen Lotsen/Fiskeboa Vrångö

How to Visit the Southern Group

Enjoy Your Swedish Island-Hopping Adventure!

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