Mexico Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/category/mexico/ Blog of a Traveling Coffee Addict Tue, 23 Dec 2025 08:53:34 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://i0.wp.com/caffeinatedexcursions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/wp-1555570621336.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Mexico Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/category/mexico/ 32 32 141833777 A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review: Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel And Bimini) https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/a-virgin-voyages-cruise-review-riviera-maya-miami-to-cozumel-and-bimini/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/a-virgin-voyages-cruise-review-riviera-maya-miami-to-cozumel-and-bimini/#respond Sat, 18 May 2024 17:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=36078 My friend Ismael and I recently booked a five-night cruise on Virgin Voyages out of Miami. Since this was our very first ocean cruise, neither of us knew exactly what to expect. But once we boarded the Scarlet Lady, saw our cabin, and had our first drink, we knew...

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A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review:
Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel & Bimini)

A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review: Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel And Bimini)

Published May 18, 2024

My friend Ismael and I recently booked a five-night cruise on Virgin Voyages out of Miami. Since this was our very first ocean cruise, neither of us knew exactly what to expect. But once we boarded the Scarlet Lady, saw our cabin, and had our first drink, we knew it would be an amazing time! From start to finish, Virgin Voyages’ Riviera Maya cruise was an absolute blast!

Ismael (left) and me (Kevin, right) in front of The Beach Club at Bimini, Bahamas

Why Did We Choose Virgin Voyages?

We took this cruise at the end of March, which coincided with my spring break. I work in education, so I didn’t have a ton of flexibility with my time off. With that in mind, we basically had two cruise options: this one with Virgin Voyages (VV), or a Royal Caribbean cruise leaving Port Canaveral that went to CocoCay and Nassau in The Bahamas.

Nassau, Bahamas

A couple of logistical details pushed us towards VV. First and foremost, the Riviera Maya cruise was one night longer than the Royal Caribbean one. In addition, neither of us had been to Cozumel or Bimini, but I had been to Nassau before. Finally, the VV cruise visited two countries, while the Royal Caribbean cruise only visited one. All of these factors convinced us to go with Virgin.

Sunset photo from my 2017 trip to Nassau, Bahamas
Paradise Island near Nassau, Bahamas. Photo from my 2017 trip

On top of that, Virgin Voyages is a newer company that markets itself as an innovator in the cruise industry. Eventually, I do want to try (and blog about) cruising with one of the big three cruise lines. However, Virgin Voyages seemed like a good fit for us this time.

Ismael and I are both avid travelers who lean towards off-the-beaten-path destinations. We also love amazing food from all over the world! Virgin generally gets high marks for cuisine offerings on board, so that enticed us as well. As a brand, VV seemed more aligned with our style of travel than Royal Caribbean.

What’s important to know about Virgin Voyages? First and foremost, their cruises are only for adults. As such, there are no venues or amenities on board the ship aimed at kids. Secondly, almost all food is included in the voyage cost. Finally, there are no gratuities that you are required to pay on board.

Beyond that, we were impressed by the stylish spaces on the Scarlet Lady. Each restaurant, bar, and entertainment venue was beautifully designed. It made exploring the ship so much fun!

The Cruise Itinerary

Below, you’ll find the daily itinerary for Virgin Voyages’ Riviera Maya cruise. It includes information about the port stops, “Shore Things” (excursions), and what we did during our days at sea.

Day 1: Boarding in Miami 🇺🇸

The first day of our cruise was all about checking in on the Scarlet Lady and getting settled. I flew from Chicago to Miami the night before embarkation, and we stayed at a budget hotel by the airport. The next morning, we woke up, did some last-minute shopping, and got lunch at a Peruvian restaurant. After that, we took an Uber to Port of Miami.

Peruvian food for lunch at El Pollo Inka, Miami

To board a Virgin Voyages cruise leaving out of Miami, passengers have to head to Terminal V (located here). Setting this as the destination for our Uber worked for us; we were dropped off in the right place.

Our designated check-in time was 4:30 pm, and Virgin requests that Sailors (their term for passengers) don’t arrive early to avoid crowding. To be honest, we disobeyed and arrived around 3:00 pm. That’s because I can’t stand the stress of running late! On top of that, we weren’t familiar with the layout of the cruise terminal, nor did we know how long the check-in process would take. I figured at worst, we might have to hang out and wait for an hour or so.

Luckily, staff at the terminal let us check in about an hour early. I think their advice not to arrive before your designated time is meant for folks who plan to show up, like, six hours before their assigned embarkation slot.

Checking in was straightforward. It took about fifteen minutes for the two of us. Terminal V is also a gorgeous, spacious building! It made a very positive first impression on me and served as a preview of Virgin Voyages’ focus on beautiful design.

Terminal V as viewed from the ship during departure. I wanted to take some pictures inside, but check-in was so quick that I didn't really get a chance to!

Stepping foot onto the Scarlet Lady was such a cool experience for me as a first-time ocean cruiser! There are so many bright, modern spaces on board, and the boat felt larger than life. Keep in mind, the Scarlet Lady has a capacity of 2,770 passengers, making it a very average-sized cruise ship. But to me, it still felt absolutely massive, especially on the first day of our trip!

The gangway between Terminal V (on the right) and the Scarlet Lady (on the left)

We found our cabin, dropped off our belongings, then headed to the top deck for some champagne during the ship’s sail away party. The open-air deck is one of my favorite parts of the Scarlet Lady! It was an excellent place to relax, sip our drinks, and enjoy the views of the Miami skyline before dinner.

After dinner, we attended a drag show, got a midnight snack at the ship’s pizzeria, walked around the top deck, and finally called it a night. If you’re curious about food on the ship or the ship’s entertainment offerings, click the corresponding link to skip down to those sections of this post!

A drag show we saw on the first night of our cruise

Day 2: At Sea 🌊

The second day of this cruise was entirely at sea. We spent hours exploring the ship, eating, drinking, lounging at the pool, and hanging out! Throughout Days 1 and 2, the Scarlet Lady sailed away from Miami, alongside the Florida Keys, and then alongside Cuba as it made its way towards Cozumel in Mexico. For a few hours in the afternoon, we were actually close enough to Cuba to see the island off in the distance.

During our days at sea, we participated in a number of organized events and activities. For example, we took part in things like coffee tastings, bracelet making, a cocktail mixing competition, and more. Some of these activities were free, and others required us to pay extra to participate. Some required reservations on the Virgin Voyages app, and others were first come first served.

A cocktail mixing competition on board the Scarlet Lady

Since these activities (or at least, other similar ones) should be offered on every Virgin Voyages cruise, I won’t be detailing all of them here. If you want to learn more about the ship and its offerings, skip down to that section of this post below!

Day 3: Cozumel, Mexico 🇲🇽

On the morning of our voyage’s third day, we docked in Cozumel. This Mexican island is part of the state of Quintana Roo. This state is home to famous tourist destinations such as Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum. By the way, the name “Riviera Maya” refers to Mexico’s Caribbean coastline between Puerto Morelos and Punta Allen (plus the island of Cozumel).

Before disembarking the Scarlet Lady, I went up to the top deck to check the weather, and unfortunately, skies were completely overcast. This would last the entire day, but at least it wasn’t chilly. In fact, even with cloudy skies, Cozumel was noticeably hotter and more humid than Miami and the Caribbean Sea during Days 1 and 2.

Virgin Voyages uses the Punta Langosta Cruise Terminal (at least, they did on our sailing). The island has between three and five main piers depending on what source you’re looking at, and Punta Langosta is right in the center of San Miguel de Cozumel, the island’s main city.

The very first view we had after leaving the Scarlet Lady. We were docked next to the Celebrity Reflection. It almost felt like being between two giant buildings.

A Review of Our Sailing and Snorkeling Excursions

We booked a Shore Thing in Cozumel about four months before the cruise, which meant we had a planned outing for Day 3. It was called “Sail, Snorkel, & Hidden Beach Escape” and cost $120 per person. This excursion included a catamaran ride to a snorkeling spot, followed by a visit to a private beach club near San José.

Checking in for our Shore Thing was easy, and it didn’t require us to leave the Punta Langosta pier. We were grouped together with people from other cruises on the catamaran. After everyone found a spot to sit, we took off. Our captain navigated around the Scarlet Lady, which provided an awesome 360-degree view of the ship.

A view of the Scarlet Lady you don't normally get as a Sailor

As we approached our snorkeling stop, Ismael got his gear on and prepared to dive into the water. I decided to just hang out on the catamaran and try to get some pictures. Unfortunately, with the weather still pretty grey, the Caribbean waters here weren’t particularly impressive.

Ismael said the snorkeling was fine, and some fish were visible. However, it wasn’t the best snorkeling he’s ever done. The captains also warned all of us that you need to be a decent swimmer to participate. In spite of that, some people jumped in and basically needed to be rescued right away. Everyone is required to wear a life vest, but don’t try to snorkel here if you can’t at least tread water!

One of my biggest complaints about this Shore Thing is that the drinks sucked. The description provided by Virgin Voyages says adult beverages are included in the price. The catamaran had unlimited beer and margaritas, but both of those drinks deserve very emphatic air quotes around them. The so-called margarita was extremely watered down; it tasted like lemonade. I don’t even think it had the slightest hint of tequila in it, to be honest.

The beer was better than the margarita, but that’s not saying much. It was either the lightest beer I’ve ever tasted, or it was diluted with carbonated water. Now, I understand where they’re coming from: the tour company doesn’t want passengers to become extremely drunk or unruly during the excursion. However, I’d much rather have a two- or three-drink limit on real margaritas and bottled beer versus an unlimited supply of very low quality drinks.

With the snorkeling portion of our excursion complete, we sailed for a little longer and then anchored at the private beach club. This area was decent, but not spectacular. I ordered a fish sandwich for lunch but immediately regretted it. Their burgers fresh off the grill looked a lot more enticing. We ate, strolled along the water for a while, and relaxed. Finally, we got back on the catamaran, which returned directly to Punta Langosta.

My overall feelings about this Shore Thing were mixed, if I’m being generous. I don’t think it was worth anywhere near the 120 USD per person we paid. Especially in Mexico, an excursion like this is worth at most 50 USD. Unless you’re willing to book your own activities, you’re going to pay a premium for booking through your cruise line. Even with that in mind, I don’t feel like the experience was worth such a high price.

Maybe I would’ve felt differently if we had nicer weather. Nonetheless, I will probably skip booking Virgin Voyages Shore Things on any future trip I do with this cruise line. I’ll admit, it takes more work to research activities at ports of call with independent third parties. There’s also an increased risk of not being dropped off at the boat in time. But we spoke with other Sailors who booked activities externally, and they seemed extremely satisfied with their outings. I can’t necessarily say the same for ours.

Exploring San Miguel de Cozumel

After being dropped off at Punta Langosta, Ismael and I had a few free hours. We decided to walk around San Miguel de Cozumel for a little bit to see what the town was like. It was nice, but I wouldn’t call it especially charming. Maybe I’m being uppity, but I lived in Mexico in 2018, so I’ve traveled to some of the country’s best beach towns. I would not consider Cozumel to be one of them.

I’m not trying to be disparaging, but I think this sentiment is commonly shared among cruise enthusiasts. I distinctly remember overhearing an avid cruiser say that they never get off any cruise ship when it’s stopped in Cozumel because they just don’t like it that much. Now that I’ve seen Cozumel for myself, I don’t need to go back.

We wanted to try one local restaurant before getting back on the Scarlet Lady, so we got snacks and drinks at Cocomama Tiki Room (address | Instagram). My steak tacos here were good, but the highlight here was the rum cocktails! They were amazing, especially compared to the bad drinks we had during our Shore Thing. When we were done eating and drinking, we headed back to the cruise ship to rest a bit.

The Best Part of Day 3: Scarlet Night!

Even though Cozumel was a little underwhelming, our evening on the Scarlet Lady made up for it. That’s because we celebrated Scarlet Night on our third evening! In case you didn’t know, every Virgin Voyages cruise has one night where the entire ship becomes a party. Sailors are asked to dress in red, and for multiple hours after dinner, there are events, shows, dance parties, photo booths, and performances throughout all common areas.

I’ll write up a more thorough review of Scarlet Night in my ship overview blog post [coming soon]! But until then, know that this is the biggest event on board the ship. Be sure not to miss it or forget your scarlet attire!

Day 4: At Sea 🌊

On this day, the Scarlet Lady turned around and sailed north from Cozumel to The Bahamas. We spent Day 4 very similarly to how we spent Day 2. After having overcast weather in Cozumel, it was nice to have clear skies again out on the open water.

Day 5: Beach Club at Bimini, Bahamas 🇧🇸

Our final full day on this cruise was spent in Bimini, a tiny archipelago in The Bahamas. This is the closest part of the country to Miami at a distance of only about 55 miles. I’ve wanted to visit Bimini for years, so I was very excited to finally do so with Virgin Voyages!

From what I can tell, almost every Virgin Voyages cruise based out of Miami stops at Bimini. I could be wrong about this, so double check your cruise itinerary if visiting this Bahamian island chain is a priority for you. VV owns and operates their very own private beach club in Bimini, which is probably why most (if not all) of their Miami-based cruises spend a day there.

Virgin Voyages' private beach club in Bimini

On a side note, I’m a huge fan of The Bahamas in general! If I had unlimited time and money, I’d spend months exploring the country’s more remote islands. With that said, I had high expectations for Bimini, and this gorgeous destination was everything I had hoped for!

Virgin Voyages docks at the Bimini Cruise Port, which is located here on the island of North Bimini. The cruise terminal provides free shuttles that make a loop between the cruise pier and The Beach Club. The shuttle takes about ten minutes each way, while walking takes about 25 minutes. Shuttles run roughly once every ten or fifteen minutes.

The free shuttle in Bimini

Exploring Bimini on Foot

Since we didn’t book any Shore Things in Bimini, we had the entire day to explore on our own terms. I really wanted to see the local towns: Bailey Town in the north and Alice Town in the south. Ismael and I decided to walk the entire length of the developed portion of North Bimini, which is a narrow strip of land. It takes about an hour each way.

As soon as you leave Resorts World Bimini (where the Virgin Voyages beach club is located), you’ll find yourself in the “real” Bahamas. If you want to spend your entire day in Bimini relaxing on the beach at the club, that’s totally fine. But I would say adventurous travelers should explore further south. Golf cart rentals are available on the island, but I’m not sure how much they cost. Walking is an option, but give yourself about two or two-and-a-half hours to go all the way to the end and back.

Bailey Town and Alice Town are both quiet, residential areas. I enjoyed leisurely walking through these communities to see local homes, businesses, and street art. When Ismael and I got to Radio Beach, we stopped for a few rum cocktails at an outdoor bar stand with a view of the water. Then we began heading back north. The ocean side of the island (the west) is much prettier than the marsh-facing side (the east).

Radio Beach, Bimini, Bahamas

Eat a Conch Feast

One of my favorite things about The Bahamas is the national dish: conch! It’s a chewy type of seafood, somewhat reminiscent of calamari. However, the flavor is very light (and in my opinion, not fishy at all). This makes it easy to prepare in myriad ways, which is why you can enjoy it as a salad, in a burger, as a stew, and in many other ways.

While walking in Bimini, we passed by mountains of conch shells on certain parts of the coast (shown above). It’s an integral part of Bahamian culture. In fact, sale and trade is strictly limited in the US. Some sources online say that conch meat can be sold in the US, but that it must be imported. I’ve never seen it on a menu anywhere in Florida, which is why I savor it in the Bahamas, where it is very common and readily available.

Fried conch with fries from Joe's Conch Shack

Bimini has no shortage of conch stands, and each one specializes in different conch-based dishes. After comparing reviews and menus, we decided to get lunch at Joe’s Conch Shack. We went all out and ordered fried conch with fries, conch stew with rice and beans, conch fritters, and conch salad. We also ordered two rum punches that really packed a punch! Since we were walking and not driving a golf cart, it wasn’t an issue.

Conch stew (left), conch salad (right), and conch fritters (background) from Joe's Conch Shack

Every dish we got at Joe’s tasted amazing! The fried conch really stood out, especially with a pink sweet and savory sauce to dip them in. I also loved the conch fritters, and the conch salad was similar to ceviche.

In addition to great food, Joe’s Conch Shack has such a fun atmosphere. It’s decorated with dollar bills, plus there’s a pile of conch shells right next to the picnic tables you can eat at. If you are looking to try conch on Bimini, this is a great place to do it. Just be aware that Joe’s takes cash only (I’m pretty sure).

Despite an overload of conch for lunch, I still wanted more. Specifically, I craved a conch burger, which was not on the menu at Joe’s. We stopped one more time down the road at Bowleg’s Food Truck (location | Facebook), where I was able to order one. It came out piping hot! Conch burgers are a little tough to eat since the meat is so chewy, but that’s part of this unique experience!

The Beach Club at Bimini

Even after walking the entire length of the island and back, we still had a few hours to relax at Virgin Voyages’ private beach club. This venue is absolutely beautiful! This spacious club has pools, lounge chairs, bar service, and a pristine stretch of sand with clear blue water. It’s owned and operated directly by Virgin, not a third party partner. I consider that a good thing!

The Beach Club also serves lunch, and I’ve heard many people say it’s amazing. However, as far as I could tell, Virgin Voyages does not serve conch here. That’s why we left Resorts World Bimini and had lunch further south. If you want to try conch but don’t want to leave the beach club, check with VV staff to make sure. If they aren’t offering it at the beach club, the closest local restaurant that serves conch appears to be Smitty’s Beach Bar & Restaurant.

Our Day 5 began with partly cloudy skies. By mid-afternoon, however, the sun was shining brilliantly. This made the glistening blue sea even more spectacular!

After a refreshing swim in the ocean, it was time to head back to the Scarlet Lady. Setting sail and watching Bimini slowly disappear over the horizon was the perfect end to my favorite day on this itinerary. We were also treated to the most impressive sunset of our cruise right before dinner.

Day 6: Return to Miami 🇺🇸

By the time we woke up on Day 6, we had already arrived in Miami. It was bittersweet for our cruise to come to an end! We finished packing, went to The Galley for coffee and breakfast, and I did one final walkthrough of the upper deck to admire the Miami skyline.

About a day or so before arrival, the Virgin Voyages app prompted us to pick a disembarkation time, so we chose the last one (which I believe was 10:30 am). This allowed us to sleep in a little bit and have a leisurely breakfast. If I remember correctly, the earliest you can leave the ship on Day 6 is 7:00 am or 7:30 am.

Disembarking was generally self-explanatory. Ismael and I just went to Deck 7 and left through the same door we boarded through back on Day 1. There was a line to leave that snaked through the lobby, but it never stopped moving. After a short and simple immigration procedure in the terminal building, we were free to go.

Since we didn’t have a rental car, Ismael and I called an Uber from Terminal V. We encountered a bit of a bottleneck with so many people trying to catch a ride at the same time. Luckily, we eventually found the right vehicle, and then we were off.

Port of Miami

Our Day 6 on this cruise fell on a Friday, so Ismael and I spent the weekend in Miami before flying back home. If you’re also planning to check out the Miami metro area before or after your cruise, be sure to consult my separate blog post about things to do there!

Miami Beach, FL
Ocean Drive in Miami Beach, FL

Food & Restaurants on the Ship

As I’ve mentioned above, Virgin Voyages does a phenomenal job with dining on board the ship! It’s one of the top reasons to book a cruise with this company. There are some important details to know when it comes to VV restaurants. For example, food is almost always all-inclusive, but alcoholic beverages are extra.

Lamb shank from Razzle Dazzle, one of the restaurants on the ship

Fortunately, I’ve written a separate comprehensive Virgin Voyages food review! It includes information on all the restaurants we ate at, all the meals we enjoyed, snacks, beverages, and more!

All About the Scarlet Lady

I wrote this blog post for travelers who want to know all about Virgin Voyages’ Riviera Maya itinerary. If you’re curious to learn more about the Scarlet Lady, check out my separate blog post [coming soon]! It will include the following:

  • Review of our stateroom
  • Common areas on the ship
  • Entertainment and activities

Final Verdict on Virgin Voyages Riviera Maya Cruise

Here’s my short answer: I wholeheartedly recommend this cruise, and I love what VV is all about! As a travel enthusiast in my late twenties who’s a newcomer to ocean cruises, I can say that Virgin Voyages was a great fit. I think Ismael really enjoyed it too, and I will admit I’ve routinely been browsing VV’s upcoming sailings and daydreaming about booking another one!

Here’s my longer answer: the reason I liked this cruise so much was because of what Virgin Voyages did, not because of Cozumel. This Mexican island is a hub for cruise ships. I found it to be a pretty unexceptional place to spend a day. Maybe it’s much prettier when the sun is out? If you’ve been to Cozumel on a sunny day, leave a comment below and let me know how it is!

Parque Benito Juárez, Cozumel

In contrast to Cozumel, Bimini was stunning. Luckily, most Virgin Voyages cruises stop here, so you’ll probably get to see this amazing Bahamian island if you’re booking a VV cruise out of Miami.

View of Bimini from the top deck of the Scarlet Lady

I would gladly book another cruise on Virgin Voyages (and probably will someday within the next few years). For my next one, I have my eye on Roatán, an island in Honduras. I’d also be open to stopping in places such as Puerto Rico or Grand Turk.

Have you been on a Virgin Voyages cruise before? Are you considering booking one? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading, and have an amazing cruise if you’re about to embark!

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This post was published on May 18, 2024

The post A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review: Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel And Bimini) appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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Where To Eat In Guadalajara: My Top Restaurant And Bar Recommendations https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/where-to-eat-in-guadalajara-my-top-restaurant-and-bar-recommendations/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/where-to-eat-in-guadalajara-my-top-restaurant-and-bar-recommendations/#respond Thu, 11 Jan 2024 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=33869 It’s been a while since I’ve published a restaurant guide on my travel blog, but I simply had to make one for Guadalajara! During my week-long stay here, I fell in love with the city’s food scene. Guadalajara’s delicious, down-to-earth Mexican cuisine...

The post Where To Eat In Guadalajara: My Top Restaurant And Bar Recommendations appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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Where To Eat In Guadalajara: My Top Restaurant And Bar Recommendations

Published January 11, 2024

It’s been a while since I’ve published a restaurant guide on my travel blog, but I simply had to make one for Guadalajara! During my week-long stay here, I fell in love with the city’s food scene. Guadalajara’s delicious, down-to-earth Mexican cuisine is one of the top reasons to visit!

Chips, salsas, and a Corona from "Birriería Las 9 Esquinas," one of the restaurants featured on this post

Restaurants to Try in Guadalajara

On this trip, I made an effort to patronize local, affordable restaurants. Recommendations came from various sources, including online lists, Google reviews, and my Airbnb hosts. For the rest of this post, any business that has a star next to its name (⭐) was so phenomenal that I had to visit multiple times!

Breakfast

Breakfast in Mexico is always such a treat. Typical breakfast dishes here are filling and packed with flavor. Even if you typically skip breakfast at home, you won’t want to miss ‘the most important meal of the day’ in Guadalajara!

Restaurante y Menudería Lidia ⭐

Address: C. Joaquin Angulo 272, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Restaurante-y-Menuderia-Lidia-100057126563096/

At first glance, this restaurant doesn’t really stand out as you’re approaching it on the street. There’s no patio out front, so it almost resembles a private residence. Luckily, there is a sign painted on the building. After you go inside, you’ll see multiple large dining rooms in a surprisingly open and airy space.

Menudo from Restaurante y Menudería Lidia

“Menudería” refers to their specialty dish, menudo. I ordered it for breakfast on my first visit to this establishment. Menudo is a savory soup made with tripe and lots of other spices. It was served with onions, limes, and tortillas on the side. My Airbnb host recommended I ask for an avocado (“aguacate” in Spanish) as an extra, and I’m glad he did! It absorbed the soup and added an additional layer of texture to the meal.

Chicharrón with chilaquiles from Restaurante y Menudería Lidia

Since the menudo here was so delicious, I came back another day to try something else! I got chicharrón and chilaquiles. With meat, chips, cheese, beans, and multiple red sauces, this combo plate had so many different flavors and textures. In addition, Lidia also serves a great cup of coffee! It comes with piloncillo, an unprocessed form of pure cane sugar molded into the shape of a little cone. You can drop one piece in your cup, let it dissolve, and enjoy the fragrant sweetness it adds to the coffee.

El Terrible Juan Café

Address: C. Colonias 440, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Website: https://www.elterriblejuancafe.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/elterriblejuancafe/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/elterriblejuancafe/

If you’re looking for a trendy brunch spot in a trendy neighborhood, head over to El Terrible Juan Café in Colonia Americana! Their covered, semi-outdoor seating area was the perfect place to enjoy a nice, smooth “latte mazapán” and some molletes.

If you’ve never had molletes before, I’d recommend trying them on a visit to Guadalajara! They’re a popular breakfast throughout Mexico consisting of toasted bread topped with beans and melted cheese. At El Terrible Juan Café, you have the option to add meat on top as well. It’s sort of like a bagel, but the beans and salsa give this breakfast dish a distinctly Mexican flavor!

Mexican Food for Lunch and Dinner

Food in Guadalajara is reminiscent of what you’ll find at Mexican restaurants in the US, but there are a few popular meals here that are exclusive to this region. I used to live in Mexico City back in 2018, so it was cool to discover some new dishes here that aren’t staples in the country’s capital.

La Chata ⭐

Address: Av. Ramón Corona 126, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Website: http://lachata.com.mx/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LaChataCentro/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lachatamexicana/

How do you know if a restaurant is worth trying when you’re traveling? If they always have a line out the door, that’s generally a good indication! And that was the case for La Chata. I ate here twice, but I passed by on foot a few more times. Every time, people were queued up, waiting their turn to go in. You’ll have to join them, but the line moves somewhat quickly. You can minimize your wait time by avoiding peak hours (lunch in Mexico is usually an hour or two later than it is in the US).

La Chata has a pretty extensive menu, so I found that it’s best to order one of their combo plates. On my first visit, I got the “platillo jalisciense” which came with chicken, a sope, an enchilada, a flauta, and potatoes. The second time I went, I ordered the “plato combinado,” which included chicken with mole, a chile relleno, and rice and beans.

Platillo Jalisciense from La Chata
Plato Combinado from La Chata

As you can see, these plates contain a lot of variety. La Chata is an ideal place to become acquainted with comida tapatía (food from Guadalajara). This restaurant is popular enough that they receive some foreign visitors, but most diners appeared to be local when I went. That’s how you know it’s the real deal and not a tourist trap!

Restaurantes La Gorda ⭐

Address: Av. Ramón Corona 181, Centro, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico (see website below for other locations)
Website: https://lagorda.com.mx/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Restauranteslagorda/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/restauranteslagorda/

La Gorda is right down the street from La Chata, and I’d say both offer similar cuisine. There’s sometimes a line at La Gorda, but not always. La Gorda’s dining area is also a little less hectic. Because of the constant line outside La Chata, the interior dining room there has quite a buzz, with customers constantly shuffling in and out. La Chata is more or less always at capacity, while La Gorda might not be.

Platillo de la Abuela from La Gorda: puntas de filete (beef filet), chicharrón, chilaquiles, and beans
Enchiladas Gordas Mixtas from La Gorda: chicken enchiladas in mole and pepián plus rice and beans

I enjoyed one breakfast (Platillo de la Abuela) and one dinner (Enchiladas Gordas Mixtas) at this location of La Gorda on separate days. I liked the breakfast a little more, especially since it came with aromatic coffee and freshly toasted bread with salsa! If you’ve never experienced bread with salsa before, be sure to seek it out while you’re in Mexico! Sometimes the simple pleasures in life really are the best!

Kamilos 333

Address: C. José Clemente Orozco 333, Santa Teresita, 44200 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Website: https://www.kamilos333.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kamilos333/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kamilos333/

This festive restaurant serves a special dish that’s native to the state of Jalisco: carne en su jugo (meat in its juice). It might sound a little weird in English, but it is an awesome meal to try if you’re really hungry and looking for something with a soup base.

Since the beef is cut up into small pieces, it ends up being very tender and easy to eat. This dish also contains beans, and the soup itself is pretty light in flavor. It’s not not super spicy or thick, and a little bit of lime squeezed in adds just a hint of acidity.

Birriería Las 9 Esquinas

Address: C. Colón 384, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lamejorbirriagdl/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/birrialas9esquinas/

Birria has become very popular in recent years in the US, but for whatever reason it’s not something I’ve really gotten into. I figured I should give it a chance while in Guadalajara. Birriería Las 9 Esquinas was a great place to try the real thing!

Located on the beautiful Plaza de las 9 Esquinas (Nine Corners Plaza), this restaurant’s striking storefront is beautiful day and night. They also sometimes have mariachi bands serenading diners, so it’s hard to miss!

I know birria tacos are all the rage these days, but I ordered it here as a stew. (You do get tortillas on the side, so you can make your own tacos using the meat if you want.) According to Wikipedia, birria can be made with goat, beef, lamb, mutton, or chicken. I’m not sure which meat was used in this plate, but I did have a gamier flavor and aroma to it. As you can see below, the soup is dark and a little cloudy. It’s more interesting and complex than carne en su jugo, and I would absolutely get it again!

El Pilón de los Arrieros

Address: C. Galeana 388, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Website: https://www.elpilondelosarrieros.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ElPilondelosArrieros/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/elpilondelosarrieros/

This establishment is also located on Plaza de las 9 Esquinas, right next to the birria restaurant mentioned directly above. They have a diverse menu, so I asked for the spicy shrimp platter. Guadalajara is not directly on the ocean, but the Pacific coast is not too far away. Because of that, seafood is pretty popular here.

The diabla sauce was legitimately spicy, which is always a plus in my book! It was also nice to have a lighter meal that wasn’t based on red meat. El Pilón de los Arrieros seems a little touristy, but I still liked the food and the vibe. If anything, they might cater more to domestic tourists than international tourists.

Súper Tortas Ahogadas El Pique

Address: C. Jesús González Ortega 169, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Website: https://ahogadaselpique.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Tortas-Ahogadas-El-Pique-100050299963534/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tortas_ahogadas_el_pique/

Anyone who is familiar with Mexican food has probably heard of a torta before. This sandwich is available at many Mexican restaurants throughout the US, but Guadalajara has its own unique twist on this plate. Ahogada means “drowned,” so a torta ahogada is a sandwich drenched in a red sauce made from tomatoes and chilis.

If the sandwich sounds messy and soggy, it is. That’s part of the experience, though! I tried one at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant called Súper Tortas Ahogadas El Pique, which had good reviews and wasn’t too far from my Airbnb. I don’t really know what cuts of meat went on this torta, but I do know that with onion and lime juice squeezed on top, it was a pretty memorable, scrumptious meal.

There are so many signs around Guadalajara for tortas ahogadas that you will probably never be more than a block away from a store that sells them. I don’t think any one place can legitimately claim to offer the very best in the city. With that in mind, don’t feel like you have to get one at El Pique. Any place that specializes in them with decent reviews should serve a mouthwatering torta ahogada that won’t disappoint.

Taquería Los Faroles

Address: Av. Ramón Corona 250, Zona Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/people/Los-Faroles-Centro/100088711217063/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/losfaroles_centro/

If you’re looking for authentic, neighborhood tacos in a no-frills environment, try Taquería Los Faroles. The tacos are small, and served only with meat. If you want to add cilantro, onions, lime, or salsa, you have to use the sauce tower they bring to your table at the beginning of the meal.

I ordered about half a dozen different tacos here. They came out in a heap on a pretty small plate. Would I be able to identify each type of meat I ordered? No, and I had no problem with that. Taquería Los Faroles isn’t exactly a hole in the wall, but it does sort of have that vibe.

Quelite

Address: C. Pedro Moreno 1078A, Col Americana, Americana, 44200 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Website: https://restaurante.covermanager.com/reservas-en-quelite/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/quelite.gdl/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/quelite.gdl/

I think this was the fanciest restaurant I visited in Guadalajara. I tried Quelite for dinner one night towards the end of my trip. My goal was to mix things up a little bit after eating a lot of meat-heavy dishes for most meals. The pulpo zarandeado, grilled octopus over avocado salad, sounded intriguing and fresh, so I ordered that.

With a fruity cocktail and a complimentary amuse-bouche to start, this meal felt light and refined. I’m glad I focused most of my efforts in Guadalajara on trying mom-and-pop restaurants, but it was nice to splurge a little bit and experience more luxurious dining here as well.

International Options & Others

El Habanero Negro

Address: C. Manuel López Cotilla 1228-a, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/elhabaneronegro/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/elhabaneronegro/

This Cuban gastropub serves rum-based classic cocktails like mojitos, as well as a bunch of creative tacos. Try their “taco Lyn Mei” with pork belly and chicharrón or their “taco Mongol” with Mongolian beef! Those two were both so good that I had to get a third one (battered shrimp, not pictured here).

After downing my mojito, I ordered a “dragón de jade.” This was like a green variation of a michelada with a tomatillo base. It had a pretty bold, herbal flavor to it, and I really liked it!

Restaurante La Roma (Food Hall)

Address: C. Juan N. Cumplido 123, Americana, 44200 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/restaurantelaroma/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/laromagdl/

As far as food halls go, this one is pretty cozy and laid back. There aren’t giant crowds or dozens of vendors. Instead, you just take a seat and get to see all the different menus, then choose items from whichever one(s) you want. I was craving a burger at the very end of my trip, so that’s what I asked for.

Burgers in Mexico sometimes taste a little bit different than they do in the US, and that was true at La Roma. It wasn’t bad though! I always love trying typical American food abroad and seeing if it’s slightly different. I appreciated that this one came with a bunch of different ingredients, including bacon and a side of guacamole.

Mercado de San Juan de Dios (Mercado Libertad)

Address: C. Dionisio Rodríguez 52, San Juan de Dios, 44360 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico

I hesitated to include this market on my Guadalajara food guide, but ultimately decided I should. You’ll understand why once you read this section. Mercado Libertad is one of the most noteworthy places to see in Guadalajara. That’s because it is the largest indoor market in all of Latin America! I have been from Mexico to Central America, down to Brazil and Argentina, and no other market I’ve ever seen can compare. This place really is mind-bogglingly big.

Even from a few blocks away, you’ll start to see vendors on the streets lined up selling everything from cloth to snacks, souvenirs to antiques. As you enter the actual market building, there’s a palpable hustle and bustle all around you. You’ll eventually approach one atrium and think you’ve reached the center, until you realize that this giant structure consists of multiple massive rooms just like this.

So, Mercado de San Juan de Dios is very cool. (It’s also a pickpocketer’s paradise, so watch your belongings really carefully.) There are dozens if not hundreds of restaurants and food stalls inside, so what was my experience eating there, you ask?

I walked around the market for quite a while because the sheer number of choices was pretty overwhelming. I sat down at one, but felt like I regretted it pretty quickly. The main issue was that I was asked if I wanted water, to which I said yes. I was expecting a bottle of water as is standard in Mexico.

Instead, the server brought over a giant cup of fresh pineapple juice. Since I am pretty well traveled, I don’t worry too much about stomach bugs abroad, and I don’t go out of my way to avoid certain things, including ice or fresh produce. However, something about this juice just made me so nervous, and I was too self conscious to tell him to take it back. I also felt bad leaving this huge cup of juice full on the table, so I reluctantly drank about one-third of it.

Now, I don’t know why I got so freaked out about the pineapple juice here. But it might’ve been that the market, despite being impressive for its size, was generally not very clean. Dust and dirt was everywhere. I got the sense that some food vendors here probably play fast and loose with sanitation standards. There’s a risk no matter where you go, but it just seemed more likely to be an issue here.

I would recommend travelers visit Mercado de San Juan de Dios, but don’t feel obligated to eat here if you’re not comfortable with it. The average meal I had wasn’t worth an entire afternoon of worry.

Bar Recommendations

Pulque Degollado ⭐

Address: C. Liceo 176-planta alta, Centro, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pulquedegollado/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/pulquedegollado/

I’m so glad I found this place, because I had never heard of pulque before trying it here! It’s a low-ABV beverage made from fermented agave sap. It’s got an opaque white appearance and a tart taste. It honestly reminded me of a pisco sour. 

If this beverage sounds interesting to you, make your way to Pulque Degollado. The bar is located up a set of stairs in a quaint little loft at the address listed above. Their bright, comfortable seating area is very inviting, and the bartenders are friendly and willing to explain what pulque is and how it’s best enjoyed.

At Pulque Degollado, you can try pulque with various different fruit blends, or (I think) as a distillation. They also offer mezcal, a few classic cocktails, and more.

Vietnam Bar

Address: C. Pedro Moreno 1296, Col Americana, Americana, 44600 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vietnambargdl/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vietnambargdl/

I mentioned earlier that I used to live in Mexico City in 2018. But did you know that I also lived in Vietnam in 2019? It should come as no surprise that I felt a deep sense of obligation to visit a place called Vietnam Bar in Mexico. I am a huge fan of doing “crossover” activities that incorporate multiple places I used to live!

I immediately loved Vietnam Bar’s sunny patio, green retro design scheme, folding chairs, and bold red label. My first impression was overwhelmingly positive, and the beer was cold and refreshing.

If you come over here, make sure to try their pork belly tacos. They are so succulent, with a sweet and tangy glaze. That plate really embodied the Mexico-Vietnam fusion I was hoping for when I first heard of this place! Even if you have no past connection to Vietnam, this bar is totally awesome and worth visiting for food, beer, or both.

Amargo Cervecería

Address: Calle Prisciliano Sánchez 807, Col Americana, Americana, 44160 Guadalajara, Jal., Mexico
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amargobar/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/amargocerveceria/

You can find Amargo a block away from the picturesque Parque Expiatorio, but it’s kind of tucked away on a side street. It wasn’t very busy when I went to try a few beers here one night, but I didn’t mind having the place almost to myself. I also went early (before dinner), so maybe they get more crowded later in the evening.

The cool thing about this bar is that they have a bunch of beers on tap, and (at least when I went) almost all of them were brewed locally. Their menu board states the origin of each one, so you can be sure you’re ordering something produced in Guadalajara. I’m no beer expert, but I can tell you I enjoyed the two local brews I tried here!

Coffee

To be perfectly honest, Guadalajara’s cafe scene is a little lackluster. The good news is, I was able to order coffee at many of the restaurants mentioned above, and it was generally good. However, I didn’t see a lot of family-owned coffee shops around the “Centro Histórico.” Maybe I wasn’t looking in the right places or looking hard enough.

There are two main chains you’ll find in Guadalajara beyond the typical international brands. They are Café La Flor de Córdoba and Café San Pedro. Both are local-ish, with stores mainly in the state of Jalisco. I used to live in Mexico City in 2018, and I never came across either of these coffeeshops over there.

Café La Flor de Córdoba

Locations: various (click here to see full list)
Website: https://www.cafelaflordecordoba.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LaFlordeCordoba/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/laflordecordoba/

Of the two chains mentioned above, Café La Flor de Córdoba is the larger one. As of January 2024, they have over 100 branches spread out across Jalisco, plus one in Sinaloa. I stopped in for a mocha and a fruit tart one morning. It was a fine way to start the day, but I wouldn’t say the beverage was exceptional.

Café San Pedro

Address: various (click Linktree below to see full list)
Website: https://linktr.ee/cafesanpedro
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafesanpedromx/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafesanpedro/

Unlike La Flor de Córdoba, San Pedro only has about half a dozen stores at the time of writing. They are basically clustered in the greater Guadalajara metro region, so you won’t find this chain in other parts of Jalisco or beyond. I honestly liked Café San Pedro more than La Flor de Córdoba. Their stores look more upscale, and the one I went to was a comfortable place to sit and relax. The French press I got here was excellent!

Enjoy Your Culinary Journey Through Guadalajara!

I hope this blog post provides a roadmap as you embark on a culinary adventure through this amazing city in Mexico! The restaurant and bar scene in Guadalajara is underrated and worth exploring in depth. The food here is unpretentious yet so delicious, and it’ll feel pretty familiar to most Americans.

Beer, tortilla chips, a bean dip, onions, and salsa from Kamilos 333

Keep in mind that Guadalajara is a giant city of over a million residents, so this food guide is by no means exhaustive. I tried to keep my restaurant and bar recommendations centrally located, since most visitors will probably stay in Centro Histórico or Colonia Americana.

Cocktail from Quelite

Have you tried any of the places I featured in this post? Did you discover one that I should try next time I’m in Guadalajara? Leave a comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading and buen provecho!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Jan 11, 2024

The post Where To Eat In Guadalajara: My Top Restaurant And Bar Recommendations appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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The Ultimate Mexico City Food Guide: A Farewell Commemoration https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-ultimate-mexico-city-food-guide-a-farewell-commemoration/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-ultimate-mexico-city-food-guide-a-farewell-commemoration/#comments Thu, 07 Mar 2019 17:00:28 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4847 This post is a comprehensive list of all my top restaurant recommendations for Mexico City! Whether you're in the city for 48 hours, multiple weeks, or longer, this list is the perfect guide for finding exactly what you're craving!

The post The Ultimate Mexico City Food Guide: A Farewell Commemoration appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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The Ultimate
                Mexico City
      Food Guide: A Farewell
        Commemoration

Published March 8, 2019

As some readers may know, I recently moved away from Mexico City after an exhilarating and eye-opening eight months there. This was a truly bittersweet transition in my life because Mexico City has so much to offer both vacationers and temporary residents. Gorgeous beaches, world-class cuisine, and some of the most friendly and welcoming people I’ve ever met are the main reasons why Mexico will always be one of my all-time favorite countries. So it’s fair to ask the obvious: with so many things going for it, why would I leave?

Long story short, I quit my desk job in Mexico City to take a year-long English teaching contract in Vietnam, which is where I’m already based! I was looking for a bit more adventure, and I’m currently back at the beginning of yet another process of learning a new language, a new culture, and a new city.

Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam

After I departed from Mexico City, I wanted to write a post commemorating the city in a fun way that would be useful to other travelers. After living there for almost a year, I think I introduced some of the city’s most famous attractions in my post announcing my move from the US to Mexico, so in this post I’m going to focus on something else: food!

Yum!

Mexico City has one of the world’s most vibrant culinary scenes, and this becomes apparent after spending just one or two days in this massive metropolis. There are delicious and satisfying flavors that can fit any traveler’s budget, and I can honestly say I think it would be hard to find food that isn’t delicious!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BeJmXyHhw4a/

With that said, in this post I’ll introduce about 20 different options which range in price from a dollar or two to multiple hundreds of dollars (in case you REALLY want to treat yourself!). Don’t read this post on an empty stomach, or you might end up at the nearest Mexican restaurant attempting to satisfy a craving for tacos!

Here’s a small note. I lived in the neighborhood of La Condesa, worked in Polanco, and spent most of my time between those two areas or within the vicinity of La Reforma, Mexico City’s biggest and most important avenue. The restaurants I recommend are clustered in this part of the city, although I’m sure there are equally amazing options in other neighborhoods. If you have a favorite restaurant in a different area that I didn’t mention, let me know in the comments below!

Without further ado, here’s my list! It’s loosely organized by type of cuisine, so click any of the links below to skip to a certain section.

I. Mexican Classics
      1. El Fogoncito
      2. El Farolito
      3. La Casa de Toño
      4. Restaurante Fisher’s
      5. Los Arbolitos de Cajeme
      6. Cafebrería El Péndulo
      7. Street Food!
      8. Vips
II. For the Fanciest of Foodies
   
  9. Pujol
      10. Quintonil
III. Other Latin Options
      11. Venezuelan: Órale Arepa
      12. Peruvian: Asia Perú
      13. Cuban: Casa Habana
      14. Latin Food Court: Comedor de los Milagros
      15. Argentinian: Patagonia
IV. Miscellaneous
      16. Tapas: Guria Tapas y Cocina Ibérica
      17. Chinese: Yi Pin Ju
      18. Eat in a Cave: La Gruta Teotihuacán
      19. Try Mezcal
V. Cafes
      20. Blend Station
      21. Punta del Cielo
      22. Tierra Garat
      23. Cielito Querido

I. Mexican Classics

If you’re visiting Mexico for the first time, I bet you’re excited to try some authentic cuisine. And yes, it is pretty different from Mexican food that you’ll find in the States! Below are eight different options to try, and what’s great is that all of them are relatively cheap. A quick guide on pricing I’m using in this guide:

  • $ means a meal should cost only a few dollars per person
  • $$ means a meal should cost no more than 10 to 12 USD per person
  • $$$ means a meal should cost no more than 20 to 30 USD per person, depends largely on if you get drinks or not
  • $$$$ means a meal could be upwards of 100 USD per person (this only applies to two restaurants on the list, see more below)

1. El Fogoncito

Locations: Multiple (the one I’ve been to: Leibnitz 54, Anzures, 11590 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $$
Website: http://www.fogoncito.com/

First on the list is one of my favorite go-to places after a long day: El Fogoncito! This taco joint is affordable and casual with a large menu and friendly staff. I definitely recommend the parrillada Fogoncito, which is their taco sampler. As you can see in the picture below, it comes with 5 different tacos and a small quesadilla as well as a dollop of guacamole. They also have a bunch of salsas which are served with every dish. If you want to experience a bunch of different flavors all in one meal, this is the place to go!

2. El Farolito

Location: Multiple (ones I’ve been to: Altata 19, Hipódromo Condesa, 06100 Ciudad de México, CDMX or Av. Isaac Newton 130, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11570 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $ or $$
Website: http://www.taqueriaselfarolito.com.mx/

It’s got a similar name to El Fogoncito, so be sure not to get them confused! El Farolito is a just a tad more casual, and they specialize in tacos al pastor (pictured first below), a must-try dish in Mexico City! However, my favorite thing to get here are costras (pictured second below). A costra is basically a large amount of grilled cheese with your choice of meat inside that’s served with guacamole and a soft tortilla. If you love cheese, be sure to try a one of these! As soon as you’re seated at this restaurant, a tray will be brought out with three or four different salsas. They’re all delicious and add a bit of spice and flavor to anything you order!

3. La Casa de Toño

Location: Multiple (ones I’ve been to: Londres, 127 Loc. 30 Col., Juárez Ciudad de Mexico, Juárez 06600 Zona Rosa, Juárez, 06600 Ciudad de México, CDMX [located in Plaza La Rosa] or Londres, 127 Loc. 30 Col., Juárez Ciudad de Mexico, Juárez 06600 Zona Rosa, Juárez, 06600 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $ or $$
Website: http://m.lacasadetono.com.mx/

This is one of Mexico City’s most popular eateries for locals and tourists alike! It can get really crowded during peak hours, so consider going for an early dinner to avoid long waits. Note that the two locations listed above are extremely close to one another (like, less than one block away). If you arrive at one and the wait is really long, go check the other one!

Their menu has many different options, but they specialize in pozole, which is a spicy hominy soup. It’s good, but I prefer their other dishes, such as tacos or sopes (pronounced “so-pes”), which are open faced tortillas topped with bean paste, your choice of meat, lettuce, cheese, and sour cream.

As you can see in the picture above, they (like many of the other restaurants on this list) have a bunch of different salsas that they bring to every table no matter what you order. They are good, but be careful: these salsas are some of the spiciest I’ve had in Mexico!

4. Restaurante Fisher's

Location: Multiple (the one I’ve been to: Avenida Horacio 232, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11570 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $$ or $$$
Website: https://www.fishers.com.mx/#home

As the name suggests, this chain restaurant specializes in seafood. They have a truly massive menu, but I’ve always gotten one fish taco (taco de pescado Simon’s) and one spicy shrimp taco (taco de camarón a la diabla) whenever I eat here. They may not look very big, but they end up being surprisingly filling! Each of those go for about 4 USD, which is a bit expensive. They really are excellent tacos though, so I’d say it’s worth a try at least once.

Fisher’s also has a pretty extensive cocktail list, and I really liked the random dessert I ordered on a whim shown in the Instagram post below. This place can also get crowded especially on weekends, so maybe visit during a weekday if you want to minimize your chances of having to wait for a table.

5. Los Arbolitos de Cajeme

Location: Multiple (the one I’ve been to: Euler 17, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico)
Price: $$
Website: https://www.facebook.com/losarbolitos.decajeme.2/

This is another chain (with locations throughout Mexico) that specializes in seafood, but I’d say it’s a little bit more authentic than Fisher’s. The name, which means “The Trees of Cajeme,” references a coastal area in the state of Sonora, so they’re at least implying that their dishes hail from that region of Mexico. I can’t verify if that’s actually the case or not, but I like their food regardless. The serve a lot of soups and stews, shrimp dishes, and more. Pictured below is a plate of grilled octopus served with onion, tomato, and a huge green chili pepper stuffed with cheese.

6. Cafebrería El Péndulo

Location: Multiple (the one I’ve been to: Av Nuevo León 115, Condesa, 06140 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $$
Website: https://pendulo.com/

Even if you don’t eat here, El Péndulo is still a fun place to pop into because it’s a bookstore, restaurant, and cafe all in one! I had visited a number of times to browse books and to buy coffee on my way to work, but I finally got a chance to try a meal here in my final few weeks in Mexico City. The food ended up being really good, and I’ve often seen their dining area full for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, so it appears to be a really popular place throughout the day.

They also have a small stage where I believe they have live music on the weekends. Whether you want to have a meal, order a coffee, hear some music, or buy some books, El Péndulo felt like a place where the community came together to relax and socialize.

7. Street Food!

Location: Everywhere
Price: $
Website: N/A

Unlike in the US, street food is an integral part of life in Mexico City! It’s common to see dozens of office workers crowding around food carts or taco stands on the side of the ride during lunchtime. If you see one that catches your eye or that looks popular with locals, just go for it! No tour of Mexico is complete without at least a taste of food sold on the street.

I have no idea what these are called, but I really liked this stand pictured above that set up shop not far from where I lived and sold these black tortillas. In a stall like this, you tell the cook what meat you want as well as any additional toppings. They usually have a bunch of sauces to choose from, and in some cases they have additional toppings. It can also be fascinating to watch them cook your food right in front of you!

While places like this may or may not be adhering to health and safety standards, my personal philosophy after living abroad is to just throw caution to the wind and try the foods I want to eat. If this is your first trip to Mexico, it might be wise to bring some medicine for an upset stomach, but don’t let fear of getting sick prevent you from enjoying one of the city’s best culinary experiences!

8. Vips

Location: Nationwide chain (the one I’ve been to: Av. Pdte. Masaryk 29, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11571 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $ or $
Website: https://vips.com.mx/

Vips may not have gourmet meals, but it is what I would consider a “cultural experience.” I think the best way to describe Vips is as a Mexican Denny’s (but better). They have a large menu of reasonably-priced American classics (like burgers) as well as Mexican entrées. They also have some seasonal specials that rotate every month or so. After you order, they’ll bring free bread and chips, and many of the meals come in combos that include your choice of soup and a cup of coffee or other beverage.

Enchiladas (or something like that) from Vips

Don’t expect a stunning meal that’ll look great on your Instagram story. It’s also not going to be the most succulent lunch you’ve ever had. But after living in Mexico for many months, I can say with certainty that there are locals who absolutely love Vips and go there for lunch multiple times a week. It’s the kind of place where a line goes out the door during lunch hour, and waiters and waitresses recognize regular customers and vice versa. This isn’t going to be a place you need to go if you’re only in Mexico City for a few days, but if you’re here for longer than a week, I’d say go and get the experience just once.

II. For The Fanciest of Foodies

The following two restaurants consistently rank in the top fifty restaurants in the world, and in 2018, they held 11th and 13th place. Both cost roughly $200 per person for their multi-course tasting menus with wine pairings. You can also order the tasting menus without drinks, but I’d say it’s worth it to try the pairings; they have a lot of interesting and unusual wines from many different countries! 

For both restaurants, make reservations as early as possible. They could potentially be completely booked months in advance. If you’re curious what a meal at one of the world’s best restaurants looks like, read on!

9. Pujol

Location: Only one
Address: Tennyson 133, Polanco, Polanco IV Secc, 11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $$$$
Website: https://pujol.com.mx/en/

I’ve been to Pujol once with my friend Ismael last fall, and it is one dining experience that I’ll probably remember for the rest of my life. As a top-ranked restaurant in the world, Pujol serves a multi-course dinner with flavors and dishes inspired from various parts of Mexico. Below are some of the many things we got to try during our dinner here, and some of my favorites were the baby corn dipped in a smoky sauce (third image and ninth image), the grilled octopus (fourth image), and the soft-shell crab (fifth image).

What made Pujol such a memorable dining experience though was their main course, pictured below. Do you know what it is? It almost doesn’t even look like food, right? And it certainly doesn’t look like a course of a meal.

This is a plate of mole (pronounced “moh-ley”), which is a sauce from Oaxaca. Normally, it’s poured over something else as a topping (for example chicken and rice). But here, because it’s some of the best mole produced in all of Mexico, they serve it alone so that diners can experience the flavor all by itself. In other words, you just use a spoon and eat the sauce directly! The two different colors indicate that one sauce has been aged longer than the other, and they do indeed have different flavors. If you want to eat it with something else, special leaf-based tortillas are served on the side, but be sure to at least just try a spoonful or two of each sauce individually!

If this all sounds a bit confusing, waiters and waitresses at Pujol are experts and do an amazing job of explaining each dish they bring you as well as how to eat it. They’re also all fluent in Spanish and English, and some may even know other languages! In addition to world-class food and delicious wine and cocktails, Pujol also has some truly phenomenal service.

10. Quintonil

Location: Only one
Address: Av. Isaac Newton 55, Polanco, Polanco IV Secc, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $$$$
Website: http://www.quintonil.com/en/

Quintonil is also a restaurant I’ve only been to once, except this time I went with my cousin Kailyn and her boyfriend Andrew in February of this year. Like Pujol, it was a really memorable dinner that was served by incredibly friendly and attentive waitstaff.

Although I really enjoyed each course and wine pours were really generous here, I think the meal at Pujol was just a tiny bit more cohesive. The flavors of each dish at Pujol seemed to have a bit more continuity as well as an overarching theme, which didn’t seem to be the case as much at Quintonil. With that said, Quintonil was still undoubtedly a really fun and exciting fine dining experience! Below are some of the things we were served.

The most memorable and unique course at Quintonil is shown below. Can you guess what it is?

These are escamoles, which are ant larvae (the white parts that look a little like grains of rice). This dish is a delicacy that comes from Central Mexico, and it really is better than it sounds. All three of us tried it, and I for one ended up really liking it! I do think it’s funny (and telling) that our waitress only identified escamoles as “the caviar of Mexico,” instead of “ant larvae,” but give it a try if you decide to come to Quintonil!

III. Other Latin Options

One of my favorite things about Mexico City’s food scene is the abundance of restaurants specializing in dishes from all over Latin America. If you’ve had a lot of Mexican food but aren’t to the point where you’re craving pizza and burgers, consider one of the following Venezuelan, Peruvian, Cuban, or Argentinian restaurants!

11. Venezuelan: Órale Arepa

Location: Only one (second location coming soon, I think) 
Address: Schiller 330, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $$ or $$$
Website: http://oralearepa.com/

This restaurant may honestly be my favorite in all of Mexico City. You’ll be forgiven if you’ve never had Venezuelan food before, but don’t pass up this opportunity to experience it! It is so incredibly rich and full of flavor! It obviously shares some characteristics with cuisine from neighboring countries (e.g. the use of plantains, etc.) but it really can’t be compared to anything else.

Órale Arepa’s head chef is from Venezuela, and the restaurant is actually located right next to the Venezuelan embassy in Mexico City. I suspect that a large portion of their clientele is Venezuelans who are living in or visiting Mexico, but don’t quote me on that. One dish I really like here is patacones, pictured below. It’s formed like a sandwich, except the buns are made out of fried plantains! At least at Órale Arepa, it’s way too big to eat by hand, so you’ll need to use a fork and knife. Some of the ingredients inside include beans, cheese, meat, and cabbage.

However, my absolute favorite thing to get here is called pabellón criollo (pronounced “pa-beh-YON cri-O-yo”). As you can see in the picture below, it’s basically a dish served with rice, shredded beef, plantains, cheese, and beans. It may not sound like much, but this combination of simple ingredients together is unbelievably delicious and will get you hooked on Venezuelan cuisine for sure!

Each meal here is also served with a set of four different sauces, including a chipotle sauce, a garlic sauce that tastes a bit like mayo (but is way better), and two green salsas, one mild and one spicy. On top of all this, they have some really great cocktails! If you’re looking for something other than Mexican food, this is absolutely the place to go!

12. Peruvian: Asia Perú

Location: Only one
Address: 
Price: $ or $$
Website: http://asiaperu.com.mx/

I discovered this place with the help of a friend named Richard who had also been to Perú and was craving some cuisine. Both of us agreed that this was a good place to have some ceviche, Peruvian-style fried rice, or BBQ-style meat skewers. They also have a nice little covered patio area with lots of seating.

13. Cuban: Casa Habana

Location: Only one
Address: Lope de Vega 341, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $$
Website: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Casa-Habana-Polanco/324305187656756

For whatever reason, Casa Habana was always pretty empty whenever I went, but that always surprised me because the dishes here are so flavorful! The owner is from Cuba but has lived in Mexico for a while, and they write their menu each day on a chalkboard. They’re really friendly and can help you decide what you want.

Most dishes here seem to come with a choice of meat with rice and a bean soup, which they’ll tell you should be poured over the rice and eaten together. Also, don’t forget to order a mojito before the meal!

14. Latin Food Court: Comedor de los Milagros

Location: Only one
Address: Medellín 221, Roma Sur, 06760 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $$ or $$$
Website: https://www.facebook.com/comedordelosmilagros/

This is probably the most “fun” eatery on the list. It’s technically a sit-down restaurant, but it’s really casual and they have such festive decor. It’s also technically open air, but they have a retractable roof to let sunlight in when it’s nice or keep rain out if it’s not.

What makes Comedor de Los Milagros such a unique place is that their huge menu has dishes from all over Latin America. I would usually get bandeja paisa, which is a Colombian dish served with rice, beans, and a variety of different meats. I’d say the food here may not be the most authentic (since they aren’t specializing in dishes from a single country), but everything I’ve had has been tasty and filling. They also have an extensive drink menu with a lot of delicious rum-based cocktails.

15. Argentinian: Patagonia

Location: Only one
Address: Campeche 345, Condesa, 06140 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX
Price: $$$
Website: https://www.facebook.com/PatagoniaParrillaDeCampo/

This restaurant specializes in steaks and wine, but they also serve other Argentinian classics like empanadas. It’s a nice, cozy environment with a large covered patio where you can sit outside if you like.

I always found myself bringing visitors to Patagonia, partly because it was basically across the street from my apartment. Regardless, it’s a nice place to have a filling meal and a glass of wine. If you sit outside, be ready to be serenaded by street musicians (who will ask for a tip after they’re done)!

IV. Miscellaneous

16. Tapas: Guria Tapas y Cocina Ibérica (Inside El Palacio de Hierro Mall in Polanco)

Location: Multiple mall locations, however not sure if all of them have this particular restaurant. The restaurant is on the second food court level of the Polanco location of El Palacio de Hierro.
Address: Av Moliere 222, Polanco, Polanco II Secc, 11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $$ or $$$
Website: https://www.elpalaciodehierro.com/restaurantes/laterraza or click here for menu (pages 16 to 20)

It may look casual when you first approach it because they only have counter seating, but Guria Tapas always has people from all over the world enjoying their delicious tapas. Since I haven’t been to Spain (yet!), I can’t confirm if they’re authentic or not, but I can say that they’re delicious! I especially like their bacalao (cod), which is served on a little slice of multigrain bread with pickled vegetables on top.

If you’re a fan of seafood, ask if they have any paella valenciana, which only costs about 7 USD per serving. It’s my favorite thing here, but in my experience, it doesn’t last all day: I’ve asked for the paella for dinner here and been told that they’ve run out, so I suspect they make a large batch each morning and serve it until it’s gone. If you really want to try it, you might want to visit Guria Tapas for lunch instead of dinner.

17. Chinese: Yi Pin Ju

Location: Only one
Address: Londres 114, Juárez, 06600 Juárez, CDMX
Price: $$
Website: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Yi-Pin-Ju/154601108395223

Why did a Chinese restaurant make the list, you ask? Well, mainly because the dinner I had at Yi Pin Ju was one of the most authentic Chinese meals I’ve had outside of China. It’ll give your favorite Chinatown restaurant a run for its money, and the ingredients and spices in the two massive dishes I had here tasted like they had been imported straight from Asia.

The Zona Rosa, which is where this restaurant is located, has a bunch of Japanese, Korean, and Chinese restaurants, but many of them just aren’t that great. If you happen to be craving really excellent Asian cuisine while in Mexico City, head on over to Yi Pin Ju!

18. La Gruta

Location: Only one
Address: Circuito Arqueologico, Avenida del Puente S/N, 55820 San Francisco Mazapa, Méx.
Price: $$ or $$$
Website: https://www.facebook.com/LaGrutaMexico/

La Gruta technically isn’t in Mexico City, but if you head over to the pyramids at Teotihuacán (which are right outside city limits), this is the most interesting place to eat lunch in that area. It’s also where the cover photo for this post was taken. The main reason I recommend La Gruta is that the dining room is situated in a cave! Although the food is a bit overpriced in my opinion, I’d say it’s still worth it for the experience. Wait times can get really crazy on weekends, so either arrive right when they open if you’re eating lunch there or just go on a weekday.

Another noteworthy thing about La Gruta is that they have a couple of insect appetizers on the menu! They’re not cheap, but if you’re a really adventurous eater like I am, I think you should go for it. The caterpillars I tried here were served with guacamole and tortillas, and were better than they probably look in the pictures below!

To read a bit more about La Gruta, check out my post explaining how to take a day trip to the pyramids at Teotihuacán!

19. Try Mezcal Anywhere

Location: N/A (You can get mezcal at almost any bar in Mexico City)
Price: $
Website: N/A

Everyone has heard of (and probably remembers a time they had too much) tequila, but if you haven’t had mezcal, especially in while in Mexico, give it a try! Like tequila, mezcal is also made from the agave plant, but it tastes a bit more spicy and smoky. When served as a shot, it’s often accompanied by slices of citrus fruit and chili pepper flakes. However, I think it’s best served in fruity mixed drinks like the ones pictured below. Whether you like it or not, I think most people would agree that mezcal has a very distinct flavor unlike any other distilled spirit.

V. Cafes

What’s an excursion without caffeination? Mexico’s coffee culture is huge, and there are a countless unique cafes as well as local chains. Below are some of the best places to get caffeinated!

20. Blend Station

Location: Only one
Address: Av. Tamaulipas 60, Hipódromo, 06100 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Price: $
Website: https://blendstation.com.mx/

This relatively large coffee shop with an undeniable hipster vibe is the only one on my list that isn’t a chain. They make good-quality drinks and also serve a number of pastries (and meals, I believe).

Blend Station is also a comfortable, well-lit place to sit and work, so if you need to catch up on emails or do a bit of studying while you’re in Mexico City, this is a great place to be productive and focused.

21. Punta Del Cielo

Location: Multiple (ones I’ve been to: Calle Arquímedes 69, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11580 Ciudad de México, CDMX and Calz. Gral. Mariano Escobedo 543-D, Rincón del Bosque, Bosque de Chapultepec I Secc, 11580 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $
Website: https://puntadelcielo.com.mx/en/

This coffee chain with locations throughout Mexico is one of the first ones I discovered on my very first trip to Mexico in the fall of 2017. Although everything on their menu is good, my favorite thing to get here is an iced mocha.

Punta del Cielo shops have a sleek and modern interior. They also sell bags of grounds or whole beans, so if you know any coffee lovers who would appreciate single-origin coffee, this is a good place to pick some up for gifts to bring back home.

22. Tierra Garat

Location: Multiple (ones I’ve been to: Av. Pdte. Masaryk 86, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11570 Ciudad de México, CDMX and Av. Nuevo León 122, Hipódromo, 06100 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $
Website: http://www.tierragarat.mx/

This coffee shop, which has a number of locations throughout Mexico City, has a slogan which means “Mexico is Coffee and Chocolate.” They specialize in both, and their menu is divided into three main sections: coffee, chocolate (i.e. hot chocolates), and coffee with chocolate (mochas, etc). Each section then has only a handful of choices, but I really liked every beverage I’ve tried here. Some of their specialties include variations on lattes that include ingredients like vanilla or spicy peppers. If you want a cafe with truly unique local flavors, this is the one to try!

In addition to great coffee, Tierra Garat stores also have a really cool interior design that makes you feel like you’ve ventured into an archaeological zone. Their baristas even wear these fancy leather aprons, so it’s a memorable experience even if you only get a latte or hot chocolate to go.

23. Cielito Querido

Location: Multiple (ones I’ve been to: Av. Pdte. Masaryk 25, Polanco, Polanco V Secc, 11560 Ciudad de México, CDMX and Fernando Montes de Oca 17, Hipódromo, 06140 Ciudad de México, CDMX)
Price: $
Website: http://cielitoquerido.com.mx/informacion/

Last on the last is Cielito (not to be confused with Punta del Cielo). It’s a pretty standard coffee chain, but they source locally from Mexico and also offer a number of unique snack options. I don’t have pictures, but this was my place of choice to get coffee during the workweek. On top of all that, they have really friendly staff who know regulars by name. To read more about Cielito, click here.

Which Restaurant Will You Try?

Writing this blog while sitting at a coffee shop in Vietnam made me feel really nostalgic for Mexico City, even though I only left a couple of weeks ago! I’m already dreaming about visiting again, although it’ll probably be a well over a year before I’m back in that part of the world! If you’re headed there and plan to try one of these restaurants (or you’ve been to one and love it or hate it), let me know in the comments below! I’ll live vicariously through readers who visit until I’m able to go back!

Thanks for reading and being a part of my commemoration of Mexico City! Stay tuned for upcoming excursions in Southeast Asia and beyond!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Mar 8, 2019

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Holbox: Mexico’s Most Stunning Beach You’ve (Probably) Never Heard Of https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/holbox-mexicos-most-stunning-beach-youve-probably-never-heard-of/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/holbox-mexicos-most-stunning-beach-youve-probably-never-heard-of/#comments Sat, 09 Feb 2019 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=5015 In this post, I’m going to share with you one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets: the island of Holbox! Located off the northern coast of Quintana Roo, Holbox is fairly large island with an absolutely breathtaking beach that even most avid travelers and Mexico enthusiasts haven’t yet heard of...

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Holbox: Mexico’s Most Stunning Beach You’ve (Probably) Never Heard Of

Published February 9, 2019

In this post, I’m going to share with you one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets: the island of Holbox! Located off the northern coast of Quintana Roo (the same state in Mexico that’s home to famous destinations like Cancún and Playa del Carmen), Holbox, pronounced “hol-bosh,” is home to a breathtaking beach that many avid travelers and Mexico enthusiasts haven’t yet heard of.

From Cancún, Holbox is about a two-hour bus or shuttle ride away, but it’s well worth the effort to visit. In addition to its unbelievably beautiful beach, Holbox has a little town that’s cozy and welcoming. There are a couple of activities you can do here if you like, but in general, this island is the perfect place to slow down, read a book, and relax on the beach.

At least for now, Holbox seems to attract mostly small groups of French and German travelers, but I suspect that the island is likely to be discovered by Americans and other tourists in the next five or ten years. There’s already a lot of development taking place here, which made me really question whether the island will remain as beautiful and unspoiled as it is now. At the end of this post, I discuss those thoughts in more depth.

For now, let’s dive into what makes Holbox such a wonderful and idyllic place to visit! This is a longer post since I took so many pictures here, so feel free to skip to any of the sections below that pique your interest!

  1. The World-Class Beach
  2. Activity Ideas
  3. Places to Eat
  4. Logistical Hints (How to Get Here)
  5. Thoughts on Development on Holbox

Holbox's World-Class Beach

The main beach on Holbox, which runs all the way along its northern shore, is probably the best beach in Mexico, and quite possibly the best beach in the greater Caribbean. The beauty of it is absolutely unreal; it’s like something out of a dream. What makes a beach unique to me are the combination and gradient of colors in the water, and the shallow water here has some unmistakable greens and turquoises that I don’t think can be found anywhere else in the region, for example in the Bahamas or the Greater Antilles.

Another fascinating thing about the Playa de Holbox is how shallow it is. There are dozens or hundreds of acres of sand right off the shore that are covered in water that only goes up to your ankles. This means you can wade out to sea for multiple minutes and still only have the water come up to your knees.

Because the beach is so shallow, there are also a bunch of expansive sandbars, especially if you head east past the last resort in the Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone).

It’s no wonder that with relatively few beachgoers and white, puffy clouds above, the beach at Holbox ends up looking and feeling so atmospheric.

Activity Ideas

As I mention at the beginning of this post, Holbox isn’t exactly the kind of place where you’ll be booking a bunch of activities. I wholeheartedly recommend leaving noon to 6:00 p.m. each day totally unscheduled to relax on the beach, rest, or sip some beachy cocktails! However, there are at least two guided tours that you might consider doing at some point during your time here: the bioluminescence tour and the “three islands” (tres islas) tour.

Bioluminescent Plankton at Punta Cocos

This is a totally unique natural phenomenon that you really must see if you’ve already made your way to Holbox. While you technically don’t need a tour to see this, I recommend that you book one, and I explain why below.

What is it?

I’m in no way qualified to explain what’s going on here, but simply speaking, there is a large concentration of bioluminescent plankton living in the water surrounding Punta Cocos (you can see it on the open ocean side, but it’s supposed to be better on the lagoon side, located here). If the water is disturbed, for example by your hand or foot, by a swimming fish, or by a big enough wave, these plankton emit a momentary bit of light that collectively look like a bunch of dim sparks in the water.

Do you really need the tour?

The short answer is no, but I recommend it anyways. I didn’t book the tour, and I still got to see them (for free), but the roads on the western side of the island were really muddy, and in many areas were totally flooded. There are also almost no street lights here, so biking or walking from town to Punta Cocos in the dark is kind of a struggle. While safety didn’t appear to be an issue on Holbox, it may not be the wisest decision to walk all the way out to the beach (especially alone).

Now just imagine this with only starlight (ok, and a phone flashlight) to guide your way.

For these reasons, I’d recommend booking the tour, if only because they can provide a ride from the center of town all the way out to the beach and back. I’m sure the guides would also be able to explain what’s going on scientifically, but if you’re curious and want to read more on your own, you can check out this blog here. I think you should expect to pay about 200 pesos per person, but I’m not completely sure.

Unfortunately, it’s not “Instagrammable.”

I have to admit that one thing that disappointed me a little bit about this experience is that it was totally impossible to capture with a camera or video recorder. I think I just assumed it would be the perfect spot for an amazing photo since many of the booths advertising bioluminescence tours have pictures of people swimming in brightly lit water. Those Photoshopped signs are simply not what the actual experience is.

In order to see the water light up, you have to disturb it (i.e., splash in it with your hand or foot), and it only remains lit for a fraction of a second. Trying to record this as a photo or video would be ten times harder than trying to capture a field full of lightning bugs. The truth is that it needs to be pretty dark for you to see the dim flashes of light in the water, and since the illumination isn’t sustained, there’s just not enough light to take any meaningful photo.

However, don’t let that stop you from going to see these incredible microscopic organisms! Unless you’re a marine biologist, this is probably unlike anything you’ve ever seen before, and you’re definitely going to remember it even if you can’t capture a shot of it.

On a side note, it’s recommended that you do this visit on a night with no moon (because the darker it is, the easier you can see the bioluminescence). I happened to do just that, and another really amazing thing about this outing is that you’ll be able to see the stars in the sky incredibly clearly.

Three Islands (Tres Islas) Tour

In contrast to the bioluminescence, the three islands featured on this boat tour are only accessible with the help of a guide and a captain, so if you want to see the attractions featured below, you’ll have to book this tour. My boat departed around 9:00 a.m. and returned to town at noon, so it’s a great way to start the day and still have the full afternoon to enjoy at the beach.

Like most other tours offered on the island, the three islands tour is advertised in literally hundreds of places around town, so just find a tour booth with someone working and ask for a ticket for the following day. I was told to try and get a price around 300 to 350 pesos per person, but was charged 500 and didn’t bother to try and bargain it down.

First Stop: Punta Mosquito

This is the first stop on the tour, which is basically the northernmost point of Holbox Island. It’s a quick stop where you won’t disembark, but the tour guide will briefly explain how this point got its name and says that visitors shouldn’t be walking this far down the beach because it’s a protected wildlife area.

Second Stop: Yalahau

The second stop is a bit more interesting, and it’s actually on the mainland (so it’s not really an island). You’ll get off the boat once it docks at Yalahau, then have a bit of time to explore the nearby “ojo de aqua,” which is small, bubbling spring surrounded by woods. If you want, you can swim here, but everyone who got in looked like they were freezing.

There’s also a little cafe here, which sold various snacks and drinks, including shark and manta ray empanadas. I tried one of each, and both just ended up tasting fishy, so who knows if that’s actually what they had inside!

Third Stop: Isla Pájaros (Bird Island)

The third stop on the tour is the tiny Isla Pájaros. It’s aptly named, because this piece of land is home to an insane number of marine fowl! Since it’s a protected space, you’ll pull up to a dock which is connected by wooden planks to two elevated lookout towers that are offshore. This way, you can still see the birds without disturbing them. Holbox in general is a sanctuary for seabirds, which thrive on the eastern part of the island that isn’t inhabited by humans.

Fourth Stop: Isla de la Pasión (Passion Island)

Last on the list is Isla de la Pasión, another small piece of land that’s much closer to the town of Holbox than Isla Pájaros. There’s not really anything too special about this one, but your tour guides will give you about half an hour to explore this island on foot.

Bioluminescence and Tres Islas are the two tours I recommend considering for a trip to Holbox. There were also a number of signs for horseback riding tours, and in the summer months, you can take a tour to see the whale sharks that pass through this part of the Caribbean. All this activity will probably you pretty hungry, so read on to learn about the dining options once you get back to town!

Culinary Options

I’ll be the first to admit that Holbox’s main attraction is its beach, and the food simply didn’t compare to the culinary experience I had on my recent trip to Oaxaca. With that said, there are still a bunch of interesting places to try in town, and most of the seafood I had here ended up being pretty good. Food prices here seemed to be a bit higher in general than in other places in Mexico, but that’s not too surprising since most ingredients probably have to be be brought to the island via truck and ferry.

Beachfront Bars

The easiest and most touristy option for meals is to eat (and drink) at one of the many bars or restaurants along Holbox’s beach. It’s pretty much what you’d expect: sort of expensive but well-made drinks along with burgers, wings, and standard seafood offerings. I’d say try one or two of these establishments, but remember that there are also a lot of restaurants near the main square!

My Favorite Beach Bar: El Sabor de las Nubes

My favorite beachfront restaurant was El Sabor. I just had a couple of mojitos followed by a burger here, but I really liked their outdoor seating with a great view of the water as well as overall vibe. Give it a try if you can’t decide on a place!

Lobster Pizza

This is Holbox’s signature dish, which is served by a bunch of different restaurants on the island. I tried it at Edylyn’s Restaurant, which claims to be the original creator of the dish. A glass of white wine went perfectly with this simple yet satisfying pizza!

Eateries in Town

The other area to look for food besides the beach is the center of town. Holbox is centered around an outdoor performing arts stage, a basketball court, and a park; the town is small enough that you really can’t miss it. If you’re looking for a place to have a sit-down meal, consider some of the following.

Viva Zapata for a Casual Dinner

This large restaurant with tons of seating seemed to attract a lot of families. I ended up trying a shrimp dish with chaya, a local leafy vegetable that is native to the Yucatán Peninsula. If you’re looking for a simple, straightforward dining experience, this is the place to go.

El Cafecito or Básico for Breakfast

Básico is a chic little restaurant that offers an extensive breakfast menu complete with tons of fresh-squeezed juice options, coffee, and food. I ended up trying a pesto egg toast with egg, which was pretty tasty.

Another breakfast option is El Cafecito, which I liked more as a cafe than a place to eat, but they do have a food menu. I didn’t really see any other coffee places on the island, so if you want a latte or cappuccino at any point in the day, head over here.

El Chapulim: A bit overpriced, but still good

This restaurant received mixed reviews online, and perhaps that makes sense: they boast not having a fixed menu and only using whatever seafood and ingredients are available fresh that day. The restaurant definitely looks interesting from the outside and will attract the attention of anyone walking by, so I decided to take a risk and try it.

After I was seated, I tried both of their house cocktails: a rum-based mango flavored drink and a mezcal-based one. I liked both, although the mango one was really unique and refreshing. For dinner, they had four different options: shrimp, lobster, fish, or steak. I went with the spicy shrimp and thought it was pretty flavorful. It was served with some fruit that were marinated in a spicy sauce mix that was also very good.

It ended up costing a lot (even by Holbox standards), but if you’re willing to splurge a bit, I’d say give this place a try!

Logistical Hints

1. Getting Here

The best way to get to Holbox is by shuttle van or bus. If you’re coming from Cancún International Airport, you have a couple of options, but most tend to depart in the morning. I used this list of buses and booked a 5:30 p.m. shuttle from downtown Cancún and took it without problem. Note that the shuttles and buses will drop you off near the ferry port in Chiquilá, so you’ll have to take a ferry to get to the island (more on that below). To return from Chiquilá, simply book a return shuttle at one of the many tour or information booths on Holbox, ideally the day or two before you leave. One-way tickets between Cancún and Holbox seemed to be 350 pesos regardless of which company you book with.

On Holbox, they’re going to tell you to take the ferry thirty minutes before your shuttle departs, which only arrives into port a couple of minutes before your bus or van takes off. Because there are a number of companies offering shuttle services, be sure to find the correct one! When asking for help locating your ride, show the ticket that your received when you purchased it; otherwise, you could be directed to the wrong bus. If you want to be extra safe, take the ferry from Holbox to Chiquilá one hour before your ride, that way you won’t be in a rush to find the vehicle you’re looking for.

2. Taking the Ferry

The ferry to and from Holbox is pretty straightforward. You’ll have to pay 150 pesos for a one-way ticket, and the ride lasts about 25 minutes. They depart from both Holbox and Chiquilá every half hour, and run from early in the morning until 9:30 p.m. (I think). This appears to be the only ferry route in the area, so you shouldn’t have to worry about specifying where you’re headed.

3. Taxis & Golf Carts

Once you arrive to Holbox, most things will be within walking distance. If you’re carrying a lot of luggage or are staying at one of the hotels or guesthouses that’s farther away from port, hire one of the many golf cart taxis cruising around the island! Like many small islands in the Caribbean, Holbox’s main mode of transportation is golf cart, so you’re going to see many more of them than actual cars.

4. Don't Miss the Sunset!

This isn’t much of a hint for how to make your way around Holbox, but be sure to catch the sunset while you’re here! At least in February, the sun set over the ocean in the west, so crowds gathered on the docks each night to watch. It was a great way to end each day, and it’s finally a chance to cool down.

In spite of all its natural beauty, Holbox has an undeniable sense that it is developing and commercializing – fast. Throughout the center of town, there’s a lot of construction, and if you walk just a few blocks, you’re bound to see bulldozers and construction workers diligently building countless new structures. Most look like new hotels or luxury condos.

Nowhere is this rapid growth more obvious than on western part of the island, where dozens of tall, white boutique hotels tower over the dense, green vegetation and often-flooded dirt roads below. Despite their thicket roofs and attempts to seem “tropical,” these ostentatious, shabbily-styled McMansions (or condos, or hotels) look wholly out of place, since this part of the island has almost no homes or other businesses.

So many questions swirl in my mind. Who is paying to build these hotels? Are locals being hired to construct them, or were contract workers brought in from other parts of the country who will take their earnings back home once the buildings are complete? Will the hotels hire local residents as receptionists, chefs, and housekeepers, or will outsiders move to the island to fill these positions? What effect will it have on locals if Holbox becomes a playground for wealthy vacationers and retirees who drive up prices of everything from food to rent?

Holbox has already undergone one transformation, from a fishing village to a small but growing center for tourism. I can’t say for sure, but I don’t think that this has totally destroyed the local culture of the island. Residents may now guide boat tours instead of fishing for lobster or shark in order to make a living. And in some ways, economic changes can be beneficial, e.g., environmentally. I’m not sure if this is true, but one person here said that the shift from fishing to tourism has actually been good for the local shark population, which now is a major attraction for visitors in late summer and early fall.

Another obvious question is: what role do travel bloggers play in publicizing lesser-known places such as Holbox? What about the average traveler, who is bound to show off how beautiful the beach is on Facebook or Instagram? Of course, bloggers want to expose our readers to stunning new places and inspire them to visit. But once we publish a post, we can’t control how many people it influences, or whether the people we encourage to visit end up being conscientious visitors that support local businesses and respect the local wildlife.

So what does it all mean? It’s simplistic to say that things like development, growth, and tourism are either good or bad, but it does make me a bit melancholy to think that in 10 years, Isla Holbox may not be the lush, green and blue paradise that it is today. Would these beaches be just as gorgeous if they were crowded with ten times as many people as there are today? What about a hundred times? It’s hard to say.

Even though development on Holbox may result in the western half of the island eventually looking like a miniature version of Cancún, I’m hopeful that as long as the beach is maintained and properly cared for, it will remain a beautiful and breathtaking place for many generations to come. Visitors to this small community should aim to support the families that call Holbox home and be mindful of the impact our presence has here.

Holbox was undoubtedly one of my favorite beach destinations in Mexico (the other would probably be the lagoon at Bacalar). If a trip defined by huge tourist crowds, nightclubs, and all-inclusive resorts sounds like a drag to you, then Holbox should absolutely be your next tropical destination!

For my next post, I’ll be discussing what it was like to go from this sleepy beach town to one of South America’s biggest and most dynamic megacities: Buenos Aires! Keep an eye out for that, and until then, stay warm, friends!

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This post was published on Feb 9, 2019

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Stunning Cenotes and Underwhelming Cuisine: The Real Deal on Mérida https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/stunning-cenotes-and-underwhelming-cuisine-the-real-deal-on-merida/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/stunning-cenotes-and-underwhelming-cuisine-the-real-deal-on-merida/#comments Wed, 06 Feb 2019 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=5606 Greetings, friends! Have you heard much about the city of Mérida? Are you curious about the Yucatán Peninsula’s “second city” after Cancún? I spent about three days there with my cousin Kailyn and her boyfriend Andrew, and as you can probably guess by the title of this post, Mérida is one city I have a few opinions on...

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Stunning Cenotes and Underwhelming Cuisine: The Real Deal on Mérida

Published February 6, 2019

Greetings, friends! Have you heard much about the city of Mérida? Are you curious about the Yucatán Peninsula’s “second city” after Cancún? I spent about three days there with my cousin Kailyn and her boyfriend Andrew, and as you can probably guess by the title of this post, Mérida is one city I have a few opinions on! Kailyn (author of the travel blog Kailyn Travels) has appeared on Caffeinated Excursions a couple of times already since we went to Mexico City together in January of 2018. She was also the writer of a guest post featuring Puerto Rico, which you can check out here!

I first met up with Kailyn and Andrew in Mexico City, where we tried Quintonil, a top-rated restaurant in the world (you can read more about that experience here). The next day, we flew to Mérida. Kailyn was inspired to visit Mérida by the blog Hippie in Heels, whose author has lived there and published a lot of information about the city. After a few days, we rented a car and drove from Mérida to Cancún, where I bid them a safe journey back to Chicago before taking a bus to the beautiful island of Holbox.

Mérida was an interesting destination because it had a ton of beautiful, colorful buildings. There were definitely a lot of tourists there, but the atmosphere of the city wasn’t dominated by that. In fact, the city felt much quieter than neighboring Cancún. Perhaps this is because Mérida doesn’t have a beach (although the coast is only about a half hour away by car).

My favorite part of this trip was our visit to two cenotes outside of the city, which I discuss below. However, Mérida wasn’t a perfect destination. There were a few things about the trip that I didn’t totally love, including some of restaurants and bars we tried. However, I think Mérida is still worth a visit for anyone who is looking to experience the culture of the Yucatán Peninsula. Read on to learn more about:

One of the cenotes we visited

Within City Limits

The city’s most prominent feature is its unique architecture. As someone who appreciates architectural styles but has no formal training in it, I really enjoyed exploring Mérida on foot. The city’s most distinctive style is ornate and colonial, as illustrated in the façade below. However, Mérida is a town where old and new stand side by side. There’s also a really good mix of these traditional colonial buildings as well as more typical Mexican styles.

If you walk around and keep your eyes open, you’ll probably see a number of homes that appear to be in disrepair, and some of them look like they were really spectacular before they were abandoned. It’s unfortunate, but this also adds to Mérida’s own unique character. I haven’t seen mansions like the ones here anywhere else in Mexico.

Many buildings here have beautiful exteriors for everyone to see. But you should also try to see their interiors! This best way to do it is to stay in one of the traditional colonial houses. The one we booked on Airbnb had a pretty nondescript streetfront exterior, but inside was a massive home with an eye-catching checkerboard floor, period fixtures, and a small backyard with a pool. It went for about 150 USD per night, but it really wasn’t too bad since we split among three people.

My favorite attraction within the city (which also happens to have a beautiful exterior) is Palacio Cantón. This beautiful structure houses an anthropology museum that has a ton of artifacts and interesting relics from pre-colonial societies. Be sure to check it out!

Cenotes: The Best Part of Our Trip

The vibe of Mérida is clearly nice, but every visitor to the city should book at least one day trip out of town to see some cenotes. Swimming in these natural cave-like pools was undoubtedly the most amazing part of our trip and shouldn’t be missed! Since there are an estimated 6000 cenotes in Yucatán alone, some of them are very easily accessed (but I would imagine also quite touristy). We booked our tour on Airbnb Experiences, and I’m so glad we did because our awesome guide brought our group to two extremely remote cenotes, and we basically had them all to ourselves!

I had never done an Airbnb Experience before this, partly because I prefer exploring on my own, but also because many of them appear to be glorified selfie sticks (i.e., you pay someone upwards of 70 dollars to take your photo in a city’s most popular tourist area. And based on the number of reviews, tons of people actually pay for that!). However, in this case, an Airbnb Experience was probably the best (if not the only) way to visit the cenotes we saw.

Our guide brought us to two cenotes outside of a small Mayan village, which itself was about an hour’s drive southeast of Mérida. In order to get to the cenotes, we had to have a local resident of the village open a series of gates for our van while inching along at a painfully slow pace on one of the most rough and bumpy dirt roads I’ve ever been on. Because of that, it took over half an hour for us to travel about 2.5 miles from the village to the first cenote.

I won’t reveal where our guide took us, but even if you figure it out, I highly recommend against trying to go on your own! Even with an exact GPS location or turn-by-turn instructions, it’s very likely that you could:

  • get hopelessly lost,
  • trespass onto private property by accident, or
  • end up stranding a rental car in an area without cell service.

Book this experience (or a similar highly rated tour) to see some incredible, remote cenotes without having to worry about making it there and back in one piece! You could also visit a more popular one, but I think the experience would’ve been less magical if we had to share the water with tons of other tourists.

So, what is a cenote?

A cenote basically a huge hole in the ground that is filled with freshwater. Many of them are very deep, and they’re formed by erosion of underground limestone. It’s believed that the crater that caused the dinosaurs to go extinct resulted in unique geographical conditions that allowed so many cenotes to form in this part of the world. To read more about what cenotes are, click here or here.

The First Cenote

Pictured below was the first stop on our tour. This cenote had a large, circular dome and a rickety wooden staircase down to the water. The best part of a cenote is when sunlight beams down through the hole in the top, lighting up the water below. For that reason, cenotes are probably best visited around noon on a sunny day.

The Second Cenote

The second cenote we visited was about a twenty-minute drive from the first, although most of that drive was slower than a crawl thanks to the bumpy road. I personally liked the first cenote a bit more, although our guide got some really spectacular underwater shots of Kailyn and Andrew on his GoPro!

I think almost everyone would agree that cenotes are awesome. However, opinions on dining experiences in Mérida ended up being a little less unanimous. We really liked some of the places we ate and drank here; others, not so much. Read on to learn why!

Dining in Mérida

In all honesty, the dining experience in Mérida was a mixed bag. Some of the restaurants and bars we tried were great. However, many of the places we tried either had dishes without much flavor, pretty poor service, or a combination of both.

Some Places We Didn't Love

One example: La Chaya Maya. This popular restaurant was really full when we went for dinner, and we were excited to try some Mayan dishes. When this sampler plate we ordered came to the table, we figured the brightly colored soups and stews would be full of flavor and spice. Unfortunately, all four dishes ended up being really bland. The service and atmosphere here were good, but the food was a bit of a letdown.

Another place where we didn’t have a very good experience was El Cardenal Cantina. We had seen good reviews online and read that they provide free snacks, so we were a bit taken aback when we asked about it only to be told that they were out. This was only moments after we saw another table next to us receive plates of what looked like free snacks that they didn’t particularly want.

When the drinks came, we were ready to enjoy some large margaritas. Look how excited Kailyn and Andrew were! But when we tried them, they tasted like sugary water. How do you ruin a margarita, especially in Mexico? When we tried to express that fact to our waiter, he basically shrugged his shoulders and walked away. We asked for the check without ordering a second round, but to top off this whole experience, they took about fifteen minutes to finally bring it to the table. This was one bar where the atmosphere was good, but the drinks and service were pretty disappointing.

Another bar that was even worse was La Negrita Cantina. Not only was this bar way too noisy and crowded, but it took many, many attempts to have a menu even brought to the table. After we finally managed to put in an order for three drinks, we were browsing the food menu when another waiter grabbed it off the table without even asking if we were finished looking at it. I stood up and walked over to him to tell him we weren’t done looking at it, and he gave me a snarky response. We were so fed up that we just left.

But it wasn't all bad...!

Even though we had our share of food struggles, we still managed to find some really good dishes (including one amazing home-cooked meal)! For some delicious cuisine and good service, check out one of the following restaurants.

1. Katun for Lunch

We happened to be near Katun right around lunchtime, and we were unsure what to expect. It had a simple but modern interior and a large dining room. The steak I ordered here ended up being good, but the best part of the meal was those rolled-up sausages (which I know, probably don’t look too appetizing). They’re called “longaniza de Valladolid,” are made of pork, and are very flavorful!

2. El Dzalbay Cantina for Drinks

This was definitely the best bar we went to. They had great service, a really fun atmosphere, a good mix of tourists and locals, and a live dance performance when we were there! If you go to just one bar in Mérida, this is the one I recommend.

3. Cafetería Impala for Breakfast

We had breakfast at this diner with a 1950s vibe, and it was a simple but enjoyable dining experience. I don’t remember what this dish was called, but it was a good way to start the day.

The only funny thing that happened here was that I ordered an iced coffee, and I think there was a little bit of confusion because they ended up bringing basically an Oreo milkshake. It was still good; just a bit too much sugar for 9:00 a.m.!

4. Homemade Lunch

Our favorite meal by far though was the home-cooked lunch we had as a part of our Airbnb Experience. After we visited the cenotes, our host brought us to the home of a family he knew in the nearby village. He introduced us them, and they gave us a short tour of the crops they were growing and animals they were raising in their backyard. We were then seated at two big picnic-style tables and served a lunch of rice, meat, veggies, and tortillas.

It may look relatively simple, but this was definitely the most flavorful meal we had here! The family was so incredibly welcoming and hospitable; I’m sure this is one dining experience that Kailyn, Andrew, and I will remember for years to come!

Looking back, Mérida was a really unique and insightful place to visit for a few days. I think at this point I’d consider myself a foodie, which is probably why I focused so much on the dishes we tried here that didn’t live up to my expectations! However, our day trip to the cenotes and the village where we had lunch were two of the most memorable experiences I’ve had in Mexico.

The fun didn’t stop after I parted ways with Kailyn and Andrew! From Mérida, I headed directly to the island of Holbox in the state of Quintana Roo, which is one of Mexico’s best beaches. To read about that, click here, or to check out other destinations in Mexico, click here. Have you been to Mérida? Do you agree with me about the city, the cenotes, and the food? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Feb 6, 2019

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How To Plan a Day Trip To The Pyramids At Teotihuacán From Mexico City https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-plan-a-day-trip-to-the-pyramids-at-teotihuacan-from-mexico-city/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-plan-a-day-trip-to-the-pyramids-at-teotihuacan-from-mexico-city/#comments Wed, 30 Jan 2019 00:00:14 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4857 Every visitor to Mexico City should take a day trip to the famous pyramids at Teotihuacan, and in this post I’ll share how you can do it affordably without any confusion or stress! The process hasn’t changed since my first journey there in 2018, so I’m hoping that this guide will remain accurate and relevant throughout 2019...

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How To Plan a Day Trip To The Pyramids

Published January 30, 2019

Every visitor to Mexico City should take a day trip to the famous Pyramids of Teotihuacán, and in this post I’ll share how you can do it affordably without any confusion or stress! I just visited the pyramids for the third time, and the process hasn’t changed since my first journey there in January of 2018, so I’m hoping that this guide will remain accurate and relevant throughout 2019 and beyond!

What are the pyramids, and why should you visit them?

The pyramids are a large archaeological site located on the northeastern outskirts of Mexico City. Surprisingly, archeologists aren’t sure who built these incredible structures, but some think they were built by the Toltecs. They were built somewhere between 100 and 500 CE, although they were discovered by the Aztecs some hundreds of years later. Read more about their history here.

The most prominent structures are the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, both of which can be climbed by visitors in the current day. There are also a bunch of other smaller pyramids which line a huge central road running north to south, and the site is also home to a museum.

Since it only requires a day trip, every visitor to Mexico City should go check out this incredible ancient wonder. Regrettably, I missed the pyramids on my first trip to Mexico in the fall of 2017, so I came back in January of 2018 to see them before moving here in July of the same year. The sheer size of these pyramids will leave you in awe, and the view from the top is pretty incredible!

Getting to the pyramids by bus

The easiest and most affordable way to visit the pyramids is by coach bus. The bus station you’ll be departing from and returning to is called Autobuses del Norte and is located on the northern side of Mexico City, here. Take an Uber to the bus station, and once you enter the terminal, walk all the way down the main hall to the left, where you’ll see Sala (Gate) No. 8. The booth you’re looking for looks like this:

As of January 2019, round trip tickets cost 104 pesos (about 5 USD). Be sure to specify “ida y vuelta” (round trip) and bring cash. Once you pay, hold on to each ticket stub you get until they are collected by an employee, because you’ll need them to board.

Pass the security checkpoint and confirm with an employee which bus you’ll be taking. The return tickets are considered open, which means you can take any bus back that’s run by this company after you’re done seeing the pyramids. However, the departure is scheduled for a specific time (the next scheduled bus), so be sure not to dilly-dally after purchasing the tickets!

Buses leave both the station and the pyramids about once every fifteen minutes, and the ride can be anywhere between one and two hours depending on traffic. The coaches don’t have bathrooms on board, so go before getting on the bus!

On the day you want to go…

Be sure to get up early! The pyramids are open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. every day, and if you sleep in, you may not have the time to explore as much as you want. Plan to be out and about for about seven hours, depending on how quickly you want to explore and how long of a lunch break you want.

What to Bring

In addition to the standard phone, wallet, and camera, at least one person in your party may want to bring a backpack. I would recommend bringing water, sunscreen, cash (about 1000 pesos per person would be more than enough), and snacks if you want. Tickets to enter the park itself cost 75 pesos per person, and I don’t think they take card. Once you enter, you can leave and come back (e.g., for lunch), just be sure to hold on to your punched ticket. You will also want to wear comfortable shoes; the steps of the pyramids are pretty steep, so climbing them in sandals wouldn’t be fun, and climbing them in heels would probably be dangerous.

You may not feel like you’re getting burned while walking around the site, but the sun is really strong here and we’ve come back with bad sunburns! As you can see from the pictures in this post, there’s almost no shade, and it’s rarely overcast here.

Water is also very important! You’re going to be walking around and climbing two pyramids, so hydration is important and water isn’t really sold inside the gates. On my second visit, I forgot to bring some and ended up feeling pretty light-headed after climbing the huge Pyramid of the Sun. Don’t make this mistake!

When is the best time to go?

I’ve been to the pyramids twice in winter and once in early fall, and I’ve had good weather for each visit. With that said, I think you could visit any time of year and still enjoy the experience, although it will be hot in the summer. Since you don’t need to book anything in advance, you can always reschedule if you wake up to rain on the day you intended to go (although rain in the Mexico City area is pretty rare).

If you can, try to plan your day trip on a weekday. The pyramids are packed on weekends, and they’re harder to enjoy and appreciate with such dense crowds. However, they are open seven days per week, so if the weekend is the only time you can go, you’re not out of luck.

An Adventurous Lunch Idea

Although there are a bunch of restaurant options (most of which are clustered in this area and offer standard Mexican fare), a really unique experience is going to La Gruta, a restaurant with a massive cave as the dining room! Just look at this incredible space!

Food near the pyramids tends to be a bit overpriced, and that’s especially true at La Gruta. However, it’s really not outrageous by American standards (maybe 15 to 20 USD per entrée).

Although the cave atmosphere is reason enough to check this place out, if you’re feeling really adventurous, you can also order some of their speciality insects on the menu! They’re served as appetizers and are also pretty expensive (about 20 USD per option), but it’s quite an experience, and plus you’ll be able to tell a fun story if you do it!

We ordered one of the caterpillar dishes, which came out in a bowl and appeared to be fried. They also brought tortillas so you could make some caterpillar tacos if you wanted to! There wasn’t actually much flavor, but the texture was definitely unusual to say the least.

Be warned: the wait for this place can get really crazy on the weekends, so this is a good option if you visit the pyramids on a weekday. I originally tried to go with Ismael on a Saturday, and the wait was 2.5 hours, so we ended up not doing it. They open at 11:00 a.m. seven days a week and I don’t think they take reservations, so if you want to give it a try on a Saturday or Sunday, I would try to arrive right at opening.

Other Hints

1. Tours

Once you enter the gates, employees will offer guided tours. I’ve never done one, because I think it’s better to be able to explore the grounds freely. However, I’m sure that the tour guides would be able to provide a lot more information and answer any questions you may have.

2. Getting Picked Up

Once you disembark the bus, you may want to mark that location on your phone; you’ll want to return to that exact spot to get picked up. There are tons of different entrances, and as you’ll find out upon arrival, the pyramid grounds are huge.

3. The View from the Bus

On the bus to the pyramids, sit on the left-hand side and get a window seat if you can! The view looking left features some mountains that are packed with colorful homes, and it’s a great way to see just how dense and extensive the Mexico City metropolitan area really is.

4. Safety

As always, exercise caution while visiting the pyramids. Since it’s a tourist site, there will always be other people around as well as security personnel, which make it a pretty safe place to visit. However, you don’t want to invite pickpockets or other trouble by being careless or unaware.

Have you ever been to the pyramids before? What about some of the other archeological sites throughout Mexico? If you have, did you have an incident-free journey? Let me know by leaving a comment below! I’m hoping this post will help future travelers have a fun, memorable time while visiting the pyramids! Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for my next post featuring Oaxaca!

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This post was published on Jan 30, 2019

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Why Puerto Vallarta Is Worth Visiting More Than Once https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/why-puerto-vallarta-is-worth-visiting-more-than-once/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/why-puerto-vallarta-is-worth-visiting-more-than-once/#comments Wed, 16 Jan 2019 00:00:41 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4746 Just as the title of this post suggests, Puerto Vallarta is the first destination in Mexico that I’ve visited twice. This beach town on Mexico’s Pacific Coast in the state of Jalisco has everything you could want in a getaway: amazingly warm weather, beautiful blue skies and beaches, great food and drinks, and wonderfully “chill” west coast vibe...

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Why Puerto Vallarta Is Worth Visiting More Than Once

Published January 16, 2019

Just as the title of this post suggests, Puerto Vallarta is the first destination in Mexico that I’ve visited twice. This beach town on Mexico’s Pacific Coast in the state of Jalisco has everything you could want in a getaway: amazingly warm weather, beautiful blue skies and beaches, great food and drinks, and wonderfully “chill” west coast vibe.

I ended up booking two weekends in Puerto Vallarta, one in December 2018 and another in January 2019. It was so nice to be familiar with the town and be able to explore even more during my second trip!

So what distinguishes Puerto Vallarta from other beach destinations in Mexico like Cancún or Los Cabos? Well, although Puerto Vallarta is definitely a well-known destination, it’s just not as saturated with resorts or chain restaurants and hotels. To me, it felt like the perfect balance of tourist infrastructure and authentic Mexican culture.

Those of you who’ve read my post on Los Cabos can probably already guess that I’d recommend Puerto Vallarta if I had to choose. Comparing Cancún and PV is a bit harder; the two towns have pretty different atmospheres. To be honest, the waters of the Mexican Caribbean are some of the most stunning I’ve ever seen, and Isla Mujeres deserves a spot on everyone’s bucket list. With that said, Puerto Vallarta’s beauty lies in the lush green hills further inland from the beach and the quaint cobblestone streets lined with traditional architecture.

Where to Stay - Zona Romántica

The part of Puerto Vallarta where you’ll most likely stay is called the Zona Romántica. Although the city is much bigger than this small district, the “Romantic Zone” is where most of the things you’ll need are located. Restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs, the beach, and shops are all within a few minutes’ walk no matter where you wander in the neighborhood. It’s also safe because of the crowds meandering through it all day long.

Playa de los Muertos

The most prominent part of the Romantic Zone is the huge Playa de los Muertos on its western side. This beach is fully public access, and although there are a number of private clubs along its shores, none of them reserve the beach exclusively for their patrons. This means everyone can fully enjoy it without having to pay a single peso!

You may have seen pictures of the famous Muelle de Playa Los Muertos (Los Muertos Beach Dock), which takes the shape of a sailboat and looks a little bit like the Burj Al Arab in Dubai. Although it does serve as a dock for small fishing boats and water taxis, the Muelle also has a 360-degree boardwalk which is a great place to watch the sunset or sit and relax.

Be sure to check out the very south end of the beach as well! Climb up onto the rocks to get the best view this beach has to offer.

Lastly, the northern half of Playa De Los Muertos has a walkway (El Malecón) which extends beyond the Zona Romántica. Be sure to take an hour or so to check out the interesting pieces of art along the waterfront.

The Town

The town adjacent to Los Muertos Beach is pretty standard as far as seaside tourist towns go, but it has a nice mix of new luxury condos and traditional architecture. My favorite part is definitely the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, a prominent church with a fascinating tower that almost looks Russian. The back of the church also has yellow spires, which makes it one of the most unique works of architecture in the entire city.

If you are looking for the best scenic view in the city, take a walk (hike) up Calle Hortensias in the Alta Vista neighborhood. This area is a bit more adventurous as there aren’t really hotels or restaurants up here, but it’s well worth the effort to make the climb!

As you can probably guess, the city blocks of the Zona Romántica are also home to dozens if not hundreds of restaurants. Continue reading to learn more…

Eatery Ideas

One of the reasons I really like Puerto Vallarta is the perfect mix of Mexican cuisine as well as high-quality international restaurants. Restaurants, especially the ones close to the water, obviously cater to tourists and are expensive (by local standards), but in general the food is very flavorful, fresh, and enjoyable.

Vallarta Factory

This restaurant located here had great Mexican food if you find yourself on the north side of the Zona Romántica. I especially liked the spiced coffee they served.

Daiquiri Dick's

This one is pretty standard tourist restaurant with balcony seating and ocean views. The breakfast I had here was simple but good. They also had a live band playing reggae in the morning which was a nice touch.

Fredy's Tucan

This popular brunch spot isn’t on the beach, but the almost retro diner vibe still makes it a fun place to eat. They had a two-for-one mimosa deal going on when I visited, and the steak breakfast I had was as filling as it was tasty.

La Palapa Restaurant

This upscale restaurant with a view of the beach was one of the touristy ones, but I really enjoyed both the view as well the food. Just look at how fancy that fruit plate looks!

For my main course, I had softshell crab eggs benedict, which ended up being a fraction of the cost that a dish like that would cost anywhere in the US (about 7 USD). If you’re looking for a classy brunch with good mimosas, this is the place for you!

Kaiser Maximilian Restaurant & Café

You’re likely to pass Kaiser Maximilian since it’s located on the main street in the Zona Romántica. It claims to be an Austrian restaurant, and although I can’t say whether the food I had here was authentically Austrian, it was delicious nonetheless.

I ordered a duck breast and lobster bisque and enjoyed both very much.

Sapori Di Sicilia

This fancy Italian place is the one restaurant I returned to on my second trip because it was just that good! Normally, Italian food in Mexico tastes pretty Americanized (at best), so I was pleasantly surprised by how deliciously authentic the food was here. If you’re in the mood for pasta and a glass or two of wine, this is the place to go!

In Conclusion...

If I had to summarize this post in one sentence, it would be: the Zona Romántica has enough to do that you’ll want to come back for a second (or third) visit! You won’t ever need to take a taxi or Uber unless you want to venture further away for a day trip or other excursion.

Even though the city is easy to explore over the course of a few days, it’s clear that PV would also be perfect for anyone looking for a weeklong vacation. The fact that there’s something here for everyone is evident by the diverse crowds of tourists, which include people from all over Mexico, young crowds, as well as families and older couples.

In terms of upcoming plans, I have half a dozen trips planned over the next few months! It’s a great mix of places including at least one or two more beach destinations, namely Isla Holbox in the state of Quintana Roo. I am so excited to discover the beauty of this relatively unheard-of island.

But for next week: Dallas! I can’t wait to try the BBQ, indulge in Tex-Mex again, and explore a little piece of Northern Texas! Until then, have a good one!

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This post was published on Jan 16, 2019

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7 Reasons Guanajuato Is The Perfect Cultural Destination In Mexico https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/7-reasons-guanajuato-is-the-perfect-cultural-destination-in-mexico/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/7-reasons-guanajuato-is-the-perfect-cultural-destination-in-mexico/#comments Wed, 09 Jan 2019 00:00:50 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4568 After visiting a number of beach destinations in and around Mexico at the end of 2018, I was ready for a change of pace. While searching for cool places to visit that aren't on the coast, I came across the city of Guanajuato! It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, and for good reason...

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7 Reasons Guanajuato Is The Perfect Cultural Destination In Mexico

Published January 9, 2019

After visiting a number of beach destinations in and around Mexico at the end of 2018, I was ready for a change of pace. While searching for cool places to visit that aren’t on the coast, I came across the city of Guanajuato! It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, and for good reason: Guanajuato is absolutely packed with historical attractions dating back to the earliest days of Spanish colonization.

As a former mining town, Guanajuato was extremely wealthy and of strategic importance to Spain hundreds of years ago. This is obvious as soon as you arrive. The dozens of ornate churches throughout the city evoke images of European royalty both inside and out. In fact, this city feels so European that it’s perfect for any American craving a trip to Spain, but without the expensive plane ticket or jet lag!

It may not have the name recognition of places like Cancún or Mexico City, but I would be willing to bet that Guanajuato may become a household name in a couple of years. The historical center feels like another time and place, it’s compact enough that you can explore on foot, and it felt safe due to the large number of tourists on the streets from morning until late into the night.

Guanajuato is great, but don’t just take my word for it! Check out the seven reasons below and see for yourself why this town should absolutely be on your next trip itinerary!

1. You can see the entire city from el Pípila.

The very first thing you should do after getting settled in is go climb the hill where el Pípila is. If you start at the centrally located Teatro Juárez, you could take this route to see one of the typical alleyways of Guanajuato as you go up (more on that below).

Once you arrive, you’ll come to the stunning view shown below! The walk up the hill is certainly a mini-workout, but the reason I recommend doing this first is that it’s a great way to mentally orient yourself in the city. If you clicked on that link above, you’ll see that Guanajuato looks like an absolute mess of streets, so viewing the most prominent attractions in person is actually a more effective way to get a sense of the urban layout.

There is also a massive monument here (El Pípila) which can be seen from many parts of the city. For a small fee (10 pesos), you can go up to the observation “deck” (box?), but it doesn’t really offer a better view than the base of the statue.

2. You’ve heard of island hopping, but in Guanajuato you’ll be cathedral hopping.

After you’ve finished admiring the view, head back down towards Teatro Juárez and start exploring. Guanajuato, which was founded in 1548, is definitely not organized into city blocks, so be prepared to get lost (at least a little) and explore some of the alleys and streets that look interesting to you.

You’ll undoubtedly encounter at least half a dozen churches, many of which you’ll recognize from el Pípila. Most of the time, they will have open doors, and the public is welcome to come in and enjoy their elaborate interiors. I assume that the different churches I saw were built over the centuries because they are all quite distinct stylistically.

3. The callejones will make you feel like you’re in Iberia.

Guanajuato is filled with alleyways (callejones), and if you don’t take some time to explore some of them, you’re missing out! The old architecture and bright colors made me feel like I was walking through a city in Europe; in particular, they reminded me of the neighborhood of Alfama in Lisbon.

4. The network of tunnels is fascinating to explore.

Another thing that gives Guanajuato such a European vibe are the network of tunnels and streets that run below the city. Originally, these were designed for water, but eventually they were converted into roads that function as the most important avenues in the area. Because the town is so old, most surface streets are too narrow for cars, so the tunnels provide a way for traffic to move efficiently.

You’ll almost certainly pass through some of these tunnels on your car or bus ride into the historic center, but they are also fascinating to explore on foot. Some of them are very long, though, so it may be a good rule of thumb to only enter one if you see sunlight at the other end of the tunnel!

Some of the prettiest parts of this network of roads are the portions which are not covered, but lined on both sides by tall, stone buildings that look almost ancient.

The tunnels are safe to walk in, but keep an eye on your surroundings because the sidewalks can be narrow and cars tend to zoom by.

5. Check out the Mummy Museum if you want to be creeped out.

This museum isn’t strictly in the historic center, so it’s probably better to take a cab or Uber. It should be about a 15-minute drive. Note that the museum is located here; originally Google Maps suggested this location, which is clearly much more remote. Technically you can see mummies at both (they are part of the same overall collection), but why not go to the closer and more convenient location?

The exhibit is basically a large collection (maybe 50 to 100) of mummies which were preserved by the unique climate and soil composition of Guanajuato. It definitely is a bit strange, especially because these people were mummified within the last 150 years. Go if you think it would be interesting, but you’re not missing out too much if this isn’t the museum for you.

6. Las callejoneadas will be your vocal instructors for an hour or so.

Spend even a few minutes in Guanajuato and you’ll be sure to notice the young men and women standing around in Spanish clothing from centuries ago. They’re not just there to take pictures with; they’re actually musical performers who put on shows every night. If you want to go on the tour, just ask any one of them for a ticket and be sure to confirm when and where it starts.

Remember the Spanish word for an alleyway? Callejón! Well, these performers are called callejoneadas, which means something like a street performer. The show I attended started right in front of the church next to Teatro Juarez. Their opening act is free to the public, but after that, the band of musicians moves into the narrow alleyways, and you’ll need a ticket to follow them and watch the rest of the show. I paid about 120 pesos (6 USD) for mine, and I’m glad I did it.

The show is interactive, and they invite everyone to participate. It’s also only in Spanish, and while they did have one employee translating to a small group of English-speaking audience members, I just decided to pick up what I could and not worry about having everything translated. There’s jokes and comedy that may go over your head if you’re not fluent, but it’s still fun nonetheless.

The tour ends at a famous spot called the Callejón del Beso (Alley of the Kiss). This was probably my favorite part of the show, because the musicians enlist members of the audience to help reenact the legend that goes along with this famous little spot in Guanajuato. I won’t spoil it for you, but even if you don’t speak a word of Spanish, you’ll get the general idea as long as you know that the story is very similar to Romeo and Juliet.

The reason the alley is so famous is that it is so narrow that its said that lovers can share a kiss from two adjacent balconies. I thought that was just part of the story, but was surprised to learn the next day that it’s actually, verifiably true!

7. There’s an international food scene where you can find almost anything you want to eat.

So here’s the good news: being a tourist town, Guanajuato has a ton of restaurant options including international choices. Here’s the bad news: It wasn’t the easiest to find amazing local food, but in all honesty, I didn’t try as hard as I should’ve.

I ate at two of the restaurants on the square (here) that clearly catered to tourists and they were just so-so. The dishes may look good, but they just didn’t have that full range of flavor that good Mexican food does.

One place in this area I did like was called La Erre Cocina Creativa. The steak dish I had there was actually quite tasty.

Although the area surrounding Teatro Juárez has everything you need, the one thing it seemed to be lacking was simple, family-owned restaurants. I guess that’s not that surprising, but I would recommend that visitors to Mexico who are intent on trying more local cuisine should venture a little ways away from the public square to look for some more authentic (and probably cheaper) places to eat.

8. Bonus reason: Teatro Juárez is absolutely breathtaking, inside and out.

Visiting Guanajauto’s most extravagant theater is a simple activity that only takes about half an hour, and the interior is something you’ll have to see to believe. The exterior evokes images of Ancient Greece and Rome, as you can see below.

However, the performance hall has a distinctly local design with all its bright colors and geometric patterns. The theater is open for self-guided tours throughout the day, although they appear to close for a few hours during the afternoon, as long as there isn’t an event. A ticket and a “camera pass” needed to take photos cost less than 10 USD per person.

Hints and Tips

You have a few options to get from Guanajuato from Mexico City. You can either take a bus (read more here, but I can’t verify if it’s accurate), or you can fly like I did. Flying domestically in Mexico can be hit-or-miss, but this time I had no issues. I flew with InterJet and it took less than an hour each way from takeoff to touchdown.

The airport serving Guanajuato is called Del Bajío International Airport (BJX), but is also known as Guanajuato International. It’s about a forty-minute car ride into the historic center of town from this small yet modern airport, which also serves passengers heading into surrounding cities such as León or Silao.

Uber does operate in this area, but I had a problematic ride when I requested one from the airport to town. You may be better off requesting an official taxi at the desk at the airport, but otherwise Uber is an option, especially within the town of Guanajuato itself.

In terms of where to stay, I’d recommend trying to find a hotel or homestay within walking distance of the Teatro Juárez. This is the heart of the historic center, and everything you need will be nearby. I stayed at a lovely home in one of the callejones, but you could certainly stay at a larger establishment located on one of the town’s main roads as well.

Guanajuato was one of my favorite cultural experiences of Mexico so far. As more American millennials discover the joys of traveling in Mexico, I think this city has the potential to become one of the country’s next hottest destinations.

I’d also like to give credit where credit is due: these two blogs, Amaixico’s guide to Guanajuato and The Wandering Daughter’s extensive list of family-friendly things to do were all I needed to have an amazing trip, even as a solo traveler just spending 48 hours here! They both have more activity ideas for visitors who plan to stay longer than a few days. Thanks Luisa and Astrid for your suggestions!

Not sure what Vincent van Gogh has to do with Guanajuato, but I really liked this guy's setup on the main square nonetheless!

This weekend I’ll be heading to Puerto Vallarta (for the second time since the first was so much fun), so keep an eye out for that post! Afterwards, I’ll be heading to Dallas, and I’ve got a number of other Latin America trips scheduled after that.

Later this year, I’m planning some trips in Asia, which will be so exciting to finally be able to add that as a category on Caffeinated Excursions! So stay tuned, 2019 is looking like it’s going to be a great year for the blog!

Have you ever been to Guanajuato or a nearby city? Have any additional recommendations or thoughts about this beautiful town? Let me know in the comments below! I love feedback from my readers. Thanks and check back next week for the inside scoop on Puerto Vallarta!

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This post was published on Jan 9, 2019

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How To Cross The Mexico-Belize Border By Land: December 2018 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-cross-the-mexico-belize-border-december-2018/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-cross-the-mexico-belize-border-december-2018/#comments Wed, 12 Dec 2018 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4236 Crossing international borders on foot is always an unusual experience, and even avid travelers rarely get the chance to do so. In the case of Mexico and Belize, information published online in 2017 was already out-of-date...

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How To Cross The Mexico-Belize Border By Land: December 2018

Published December 12, 2018

Crossing international borders on foot is always an unusual experience, and even avid travelers rarely get the chance to do so. This was especially true at the border between Mexico and Belize; I did my research on how to best handle it, and information published online in 2017 was already out-of-date. In this post, I’ll explain how I crossed both ways in December 2018. There are a couple of things you can do to make sure it’s a smooth process.

Who might be interested in coming to Belize this way, and what lies on the other side? Well, I wanted to add a new country to my list (I’m currently at 24) and get a dose of Belizean culture without taking a day off from work. The first town you’ll encounter after crossing into Belize (Corozal) is beautiful, relaxing, and the perfect tropical getaway you’ve almost certainly never heard of. The process of crossing the border is different depending on which way you’re going, so I’ll start by sharing how to cross from Mexico to Belize, then explain how to cross the opposite direction.

Before you go, you’ll want to quickly familiarize yourself with the geography of the region. On the Mexican side is the city of Chetumal, which happens to be the state capital of Quintana Roo. The actual border crossing itself is a few miles west of here, and on the Belizean side is the town of Corozal, about a 15-minute drive further south.

The town square in Corozal, Belize

For whatever reason, flights between Mexico City and Belize City are always very expensive, whereas flights from Mexico City to Chetumal are usually between 100 and 200 USD roundtrip. For any travelers wanting to go between the two countries (especially to/from Mexico City or other major metropolitan areas), crossing this border by land may be your most economical option.

Part I. Mexico to Belize

You’ll want to start your border-crossing journey in Chetumal. Since I only gave myself one weekend for my trip, I flew to Chetumal airport on Friday night, stayed in an Airbnb there, then crossed the border on Saturday morning.

To get to the border, simply hail one of the city’s official cabs and ask for “la frontera.” From most parts of the city, the taxi should charge 100 pesos. They should drop you off at the location below (the Secretaría de Gobernación Instituto Nacional de Migración), and you will be able to approach the immigration kiosk on foot. Note that you should be crossing via Avenida México, not the adjacent highway shown in yellow on the map below.

Some resources online mention a 533 peso “exit tax” which I did see the officer charge French and Swiss tourists. Mexican citizens did not seem to have to pay the tax, and as a “residente temporal,” I wasn’t asked to pay it either. If you’re a tourist in Mexico though, be prepared to pay it in cash (pesos).

Once you’ve officially cleared immigration, you can proceed forward, where you’ll cross the Hondo River using a pedestrian and vehicle bridge. This river functions as the border between the two countries, so once you reach the other side, congratulations, you’re officially in Belize!

After you arrive, you’ll find the option to enter the “Belize Free Zone” to the left which appears to be a fenced-in duty-free shopping area (with a few sketchy looking casinos thrown in for good measure). It’s my understanding that if you don’t leave the Free Zone, you won’t be required to go through Belize immigration, but I’m not completely sure.

It's a kind of bizarre area...

I assume most travelers intend to continue on, in which case you will need to go through immigration. Unlike on the Mexican side, you need to cross in a vehicle and not on foot. Keep an eye out for cab drivers right after crossing the Hondo River. I was charged 500 pesos (approx. 25 USD) by the driver, who drove me to the immigration checkpoint located here, dropped me off, and waited for me pass through before taking me into Corozal. If that seems too expensive, you could try bargaining it down, but I didn’t see a ton of taxis to choose from.

Getting my passport stamped was fairly routine, although the Belizean immigration officer questioned why I was only going to Corozal for two days. After getting my passport stamped, I found my taxi driver waiting for me on the other side. We drove into Corozal, where he dropped me off at my hotel.

The guesthouse where I stayed in Corozal, which was lovely.

WARNING: There are resources online claiming that travelers can get on buses in Chetumal that will cross into Belize and go all the way to Belize City and beyond. I tried to find a bus, but there didn’t appear to be any options (at either the new or old ADO bus terminal in Chetumal). My taxi driver in Belize seemed to believe that the information in this blog was correct, namely that there have been diplomatic problems and arrests of bus drivers, causing bus companies to stop offering service between Chetumal and Belize.

In order to continue traveling further south of Corozal, my taxi driver recommended going to Corozal’s bus terminal. I did see some buses near the Free Zone with signs claiming they were going to Orange Walk, but I didn’t see anyone necessarily boarding them. Corozal to Belize City looks to be about a two-hour ride, but in order to find out the schedule you’d have to inquire in person at the Corozal bus terminal. Know that bus transport within Belize is likely to be in school buses, not Greyhound-style coaches.

UPDATE: According to a reader who commented on this post, one might also consider Marlin Espadas private bus tours, especially for crossing the border without so much hassle. I can’t comment on the experience since I didn’t travel with them, but it could potentially save some time if you’re in more of a rush.

Part II. Belize to Mexico

This border crossing was much more straightforward, mainly because the guesthouse I stayed in (The Waterfront SeaBreeze Guesthouse) had a driver I was able to hire to take me back and across the border on my return trip to Mexico. He charged 25 BZD (13 USD, see more on currency below), which was about half the cost of my first taxi driver in Belize. Talk with your hotel or Airbnb about arranging a driver if you need one.

Immigration was exactly the same in reverse, except there was a 40 BZD exit tax which had to be paid in cash and in Belizean dollars. There are a couple of ATMs in Corozal, so be sure to withdraw that before heading to the border.

Once you’ve crossed over the river and cleared Mexican customs, you’ll end up at the exact same place you started (if you are making a return trip like I did). Taxi drivers will be waiting there to take you to the airport or wherever you’re headed in Chetumal.

Other Information

Currency and Money

Belize uses the Belize dollar (BZD). One BZD is equal to 0.50 USD, so just divide the prices you see here in half to see their American equivalents. If you’ve never seen them before, you’ll enjoy the wild animals and scenes printed on their back sides.

If you’re headed to Corozal, there are at least three or four 24-hour ATMs where you can withdraw BZDs. Although a taxi driver waiting on the Belize side of the border is probably going to accept pesos, be sure to ask and confirm the price before getting in. As I mention above, you need to have 40 BZDs in hand to leave the country, so be sure to obtain that in town.

Taxis (They Can't Cross the Border)

No matter which way you’re going, taxi drivers don’t appear to be able to cross the border with you. You’ll need to hire two separate taxis: one in Mexico and one in Belize. My first taxi driver in Belize accepted payment in pesos, but I would guess that taxi drivers in Mexico wouldn’t accept Belize dollars. Try to obtain some pesos before crossing into Mexico if possible.

In Conclusion

A Calm Border With Little to No Up-to-date Info Online

I was surprised by how calm and quick the border crossing was in both directions. Officers were polite and relaxed, there were no lines to wait in, and immigration forms were straightforward. It was a nice change from the ridiculously long customs lines and frustration that you are likely to encounter in major airports.

Now that you’re an expert in how to cross from Mexico to Belize or vice versa, you’re probably wondering what can be found in the surrounding areas. For one, Chetumal appears to be a fairly standard mid-sized city in Mexico, but the relatively close village and lagoon of Bacalar is absolutely worth a visit if you have the time.

Bacalar, one of my favorite places in Mexico

On the Belizean side, Corozal is a laid-back and quiet town that reminded me of some of the small settlements I encountered in the Bahamas. The food is delicious, the locals are friendly, and the water here is a very unique shade of green. To read all about it in my next blog post, click here! If you have any questions about the border crossing, please leave a comment below!

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This post was published on Dec 12, 2018

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Why I Liked (But Didn’t Love) Los Cabos https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/why-i-liked-but-didnt-love-los-cabos/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/why-i-liked-but-didnt-love-los-cabos/#comments Tue, 13 Nov 2018 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4080 Have you ever been to a place that everyone rants and raves about, but you just didn’t feel the magic? That was Los Cabos for me. I enjoyed my time there, but I didn’t fall in love with it the way I did with many of my other recent destinations...

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Why I Liked (But Didn’t Love) Los Cabos

Published November 13, 2018

Have you ever been to a place that everyone rants and raves about, but you just didn’t feel the magic? That was Los Cabos for me. I enjoyed my time there, but I didn’t fall in love with it the way I did with many of my other recent destinations.

Los Cabos is an area with two main towns located on the southern tip of Baja California Sur: the famous party destination of Cabo San Lucas (Cabo) and the smaller, laid-back town of San José del Cabo (San José). I spent Friday night in San José and then spent Saturday night and Sunday in Cabo San Lucas. The two towns are quite different, and if you’re going to visit the area I would suggest at least spending a few hours in the less-frequently-visited San José.

Below are some of the things I liked followed by some of the things I didn’t.

Things I Liked

1. Amazing Food

One of the main highlights of the trip was definitely the dining. With good seafood, beachfront restaurants, and ample alcohol, the culinary scene in Los Cabos is great. However, this isn’t unique to Baja California; delicious cuisine can be found almost anywhere in Mexico.

Burrito
Lobster tacos
Breakfast crepe

With that said, there were a few places that I particularly liked. My favorite was probably Hacienda Cocina y Cantina, which is located right on Medano Beach. There are tons of reviews online that say you have to try this place, and I was skeptical because it is connected to one of the many beachfront resorts. But the reviews were right; it was amazing!

I tried their chiles rellenos, which were so satisfying. It ended up being a very expensive meal by Mexican standards at about 60 USD including drinks, but the view and the atmosphere are great for anyone looking to splurge a bit.

For my first breakfast in San José, I tried Chula Vegan Café which I also really liked. I got a bowl which kind of reminded me of Chipotle except that under the rice, beans, and avocado was a bed of salad. I forget what kind of latte I got, but it was something I had never heard of before and ended up being delicious too!

2. Cabo San Lucas Water Taxi

Another really fun thing to do is take a boat tour on a water taxi in Cabo San Lucas. There are tons of different options, including fancy tours with buffets and open bars, but for budget travelers you can ask for just a quick tour of the famous arch (El Arco) at Land’s End. All you have to do is head to the marina area and ask around (more likely, someone will approach you asking if you want a boat tour).

The guy I ended up going with was more than willing to take just me, so you don’t need to wait for more people to arrive. He asked for 360 pesos, which I’m sure I could’ve bargained down, but I was fine paying that for basically a private tour that lasted about 45 minutes or so. He stopped when I wanted to take pictures and navigated around both sides of the arch.

The other reason you should take a boat tour in Cabo is that the arch doesn’t appear to be accessible by land. For one, the waves are really rough out here, but there also aren’t any roads that seem to go out there.

3. Interesting Plant Life

This is a kind of random point, but Los Cabos are filled with unique flowers as well as palm trees and cacti. The fact that the climate seems dry and arid but is near the ocean makes for some unique landscapes with a diversity of plant species.

4. Historic Center of San José

Last but definitely not least, I really enjoyed walking around downtown San José. It’s small, compact, and has a uniquely Mexican feel. When I went on Saturday morning, it also wasn’t very crowded. The area is centered around the Plaza Mijares and is home to interesting stores, restaurants, and bars.

I even happened upon this little farmers market where vendors were selling crafts, honey, and other produce.

As you can see, Los Cabos has a number of things going for it, and it’s certainly a unique part of Mexico. I wouldn’t say it was perfect, though. Keep reading to learn why…

Things I Didn't Like

1. The Vibe of Cabo San Lucas

In contrast to San José del Cabo, Cabo San Lucas is super touristy. The main road, which is home to tons of bars, restaurants, clubs, casinos, strip clubs, and more just doesn’t have that old-town vibe that San Jose does. You’ve got locals yelling out at tourists walking by, trying to sell everything from knick-knacks and souvenirs to camel rides and whale-watching tours. None of that is particularly surprising, but it does make it harder to relax.

2. Cloudy Weather

The weather here also left a little to be desired. Both times I’ve been to Mexico’s Caribbean coast, I’ve had great weather. In contrast, both days here ended up being partly cloudy. I think I was expecting more of a tropical getaway, but it really wasn’t particularly hot either.

3. Transportation Struggles

One other thing I didn’t love about this area is the lack of transportation options. This is also an issue in Cancún, but it seemed to be a little bit more of a hassle here. For one, there are a bunch of stories online of taxis costing upwards of 60 or 70 dollars for a half-hour ride, partly because of high taxes and licensing fees to pick passengers up from the airport, but also just because drivers tend to rip off tourists.

Uber doesn’t exist here (there seems to be a history of drama and even sabotage such as slashed tires between Uber and taxi drivers, so Uber pulled out of the area).

There are multiple other sources online saying your best option is to book shared, private vans or shuttles in advance. As it turns out, I was able to hop on one without a reservation from the airport (SJD on the outskirts of San José) to the beachfront area of San José where my Airbnb was for 150 pesos.

The other option is to take the public buses. Stops are along the main roads, and at least one route runs between Cabo and the airport. One-way fares were about 40 pesos, or 2 USD. Ask your Airbnb host or the reception desk at your hotel about this option to potentially save yourself a lot of money!

Cabo or Cancún?

Despite my complaints, I’m glad that I took this trip and made it to Los Cabos. However, I feel like a weekend was enough time to get a sense of the area and see most of the main attractions.

It’s a matter of personal preference, but I think the beaches in Quintana Roo just can’t be beat. I want to go back to Cancún and even Bacalar, and I hope to visit places like Playa del Carmen, Cozumel, and Tulum in the near future.

Do you love Los Cabos? Did I miss something this trip that will make me change my mind next time? Let me know in the comments below! And be sure to stay turned for my next post: Lima, Peru!

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This post was published on Nov 13, 2018

The post Why I Liked (But Didn’t Love) Los Cabos appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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