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Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 03 Feb 2021 06:00:00 +0000

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro

Published February 3, 2021

Do you enjoy exploring cities beyond their tourist hotspots? If you do and you’re headed to Rio de Janeiro, you’ll want to make sure you spend some time on the shores of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas! This saltwater lagoon directly north of Ipanema is a safe, upscale part of the city that has lots to offer.

This post will feature the pedestrian path that goes all the way around Lagoa, a massive botanical garden on its northwest side, another nearby park that’s great for pictures, and some additional attractions (including restaurants). Let’s dive right in!

Walk Around the Lake

The easiest way to get a sense of Lagoa is to walk around it, and it’s a great way to spend a sunny afternoon in Rio de Janeiro.

Basic Info

A paved pedestrian and bike path goes all the way around the lake, and it’s pretty busy throughout the day. The total circumference is about nine kilometers. If you only want to walk a portion of it, I suggest the southeast quadrant. This part offers the best views of the city and the mountains.

One of my favorite things about walking around Lagoa is feeling like you’ve left the city. There is so much greenery surrounding the path, and there are lots of views of rugged, rocky cliffs and green mountain forests.

Birdwatching

Since Lagoa doesn’t attract the dense crowds that Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches do, birds tend to gather in this part of Rio. They aren’t very shy and you can often observe them up close!

Keep an eye out for the “common gallinule,” which might also be referred to as a moorhen or a “frango-d’água” in Portuguese. Although they can be found throughout wet climates in North and South America, Lagoa is full of them. They have these beautiful, distinctive red frontal shields that make them easy to identify.

I Spy... Cristo Redentor

Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) can be seen from various parts of Rio de Janeiro, but Lagoa is one of the best neighborhoods to get a pretty clear view of the iconic statue.

Dusk and Night

I’ve gone on little strolls in Lagoa during dusk and in the early evening a few of times. It’s a pretty place to watch the sunset with the light reflected on the water. Lagoa is generally a safe area, and the pedestrian and bike path is still pretty busy after dark. With that said, exercise caution and stay alert if you choose to go for a walk here at night. (The same can be said for basically all parts of Rio de Janeiro.)

Jardim Botânico

This massive botanical garden (location | website) is one of Rio’s top attractions beyond its beaches. Nature lovers won’t want to miss this impressive collection of tropical plants!

The row of super-tall palm trees along the garden’s front side is a great place to take pictures, although there are lots of interesting photo-ops throughout Jardim Botânico.

Be sure to keep your eye out for animals in the park as well! Based on a quick internet search, the creatures pictured below are black capuchins (but don’t quote me on that). When I photographed them, there was a huge group running around and exploring.

Parque Lage

This is another park on Lagoa’s northern side (location | website) not too far from Jardim Botânico. It’s much smaller, but there’s no entrance fee.

The most interesting landmark here is the Escola de Artes Visuais do Parque Lage (Parque Lage Visual Art School), a building with Roman elements set in front of the rocky façade of Corcovado Mountain.

Inside is a cafe with a reflecting pool and an open-air courtyard. It’s one of the city’s most popular Instagram spots. If you go, it’s free, but you will almost certainly have to wait in line to take a picture.

If you don’t have time to wait for a photo like the one above, you can also get a good picture in front of the school itself. If the side room is open, that’s another interesting spot.

There is a trail that goes from Parque Lage to Cristo Redentor, but I never attempted it. Lots of travelers actually recommend against it. That’s because it doesn’t seem to be adequately guarded and robberies are common along it. As such, I would suggest staying in the lower part of the park where the Visual Art School is.

Other Attractions in Lagoa

Mural Area

A beautiful collection of street art can be found on Rua Oliveira Rocha and on Rua Jardim Botânico between the entrance to Parque Lage and the Hospital Federal da Lagoa. There are lots of different styles represented, and it’s quite a cool find.

Like Parque Lage and Jardim Botânico, this little mural area is another great spot in Lagoa to take a picture or two.

The Best Places to Eat in Lagoa

Lagoa is home to some of Rio de Janeiro’s fanciest restaurants, including international options. While you can still find cheap and casual restaurants here, expect to pay more for meals here than in other parts of the city. Below are four of my favorite restaurants to consider in Lagoa.

Didier Restaurante

Address: Av. Alexandre Ferreira, 66 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-220, Brazil
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/didierrestaurante/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/didier_restaurante/

This French restaurant is one of the best places in Rio to splurge on top-quality dining and drinks!

Didier Restaurante does an excellent job with appetizers, so be sure to try at least one! Even their house bread, served with tapenade, butter, and cheese, is amazing. I recommend trying their cheese sampler (tábua de queijos) or the escargot.

In terms of main dishes, their duck (magred de canard) is my favorite. And for dessert, you absolutely have to try their île flottante (floating island). This French specialty is an absolute delight, and Didier is the perfect place to try one if you’ve never had it before!

Mr. Lam

Address: R. Maria Angélica, 21 – Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-202, Brazil
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mrlamrio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mrlamrj/

For Chinese fine dining, head straight to Mr. Lam. This was the only place I’ve found in Rio that served dim sum. The crispy duck and Mr. Lam’s Noodles are both delicious and filling main dishes, and they serve a wide variety of fancy cocktails. Expect to splurge here too, but it’s worth it!

Taj Mahal Restaurante

Address: Rua José Joaquim Seabra, 19 – Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-130, Brazil
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tajmahalrio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tajmahalrio/

The food at this Indian restaurant is incredible, and I can’t recommend it enough! I loved every dish I ordered here. Don’t get me wrong: Brazilian food is full of flavor, but sometimes I crave the spice and fragrance of good Indian food. Taj Mahal’s naan, curry, rice dishes, and lassi are all amazing.

Guacamole Cocina Mexicana

Address: R. Jardim Botânico, 129 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-050, Brazil
Website: https://www.guacamolemex.com.br/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/guacamolemex/

This restaurant probably serves the best Mexican food I found in Rio (Mexican food is not all that common in Brazil). Although Guacamole is technically a chain with locations in multiple Brazilian states, they have a large menu of options and a fun vibe. I recommend their tacos, especially the “ribs Tex-Mex” and the “camarão com cogumelos.” When I first went, I assumed the tacos would be small like they are in Mexico, and ended up ordering way too much food!

Go Visit Lagoa!

The neighborhoods that encircle Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, especially those on its northern side, are a relaxing and green part of the city. If you’re in Rio and want to explore beyond the beaches, this is an excellent area to check out!

Have you been to Rio de Janeiro before? If you have, did you walk or bike along the shores of Lagoa? Leave a comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Feb 3, 2021

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

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The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon”

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sun, 03 Jan 2021 18:00:00 +0000

The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon”

Published January 3, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Did you know that Rio de Janeiro has a little slice of Europe tucked away on one of its suburban hillsides? Santa Teresa is a beautiful area that will make you feel like you’re in Portugal until you come across one of its many scenic lookout spots, reminding you that you’re still in Brazil!

If you’ve already spent some time in Rio enjoying the beaches, visiting Christ the Redeemer, and riding the Pão de Açúcar cable car, you should check out some of the lesser-known parts of the city. Santa Teresa isn’t the only option, but it is a place you definitely won’t regret spending a sunny morning or afternoon. This post will explain how to get there and what to do when you arrive!

Where exactly is Santa Teresa?

This is a question worth asking, and the answer isn’t immediately obvious! Other travel blogs might recommend spending an afternoon in this hilly, upscale neighborhood without explaining where to go. Google Maps isn’t exactly helpful, either: it shows a miles-long, weirdly-shaped area stretching from northeast to southwest. Perhaps these are the official boundaries of Santa Teresa.

The answer is that Santa Teresa is centered at Largo do Guimarães (Guimarães Plaza), located here. Once you arrive, you can explore the surroundings at your own pace, and there is no shortage of interesting things to discover nearby. Listed below are three different ways to get there: on foot, by trolley, or using Uber.

Option 1: Walk from Escadaria Selarón

Escadaria Selarón is a famous alley that was transformed into a massive work of art by Chilean-Brazilian artist Jorge Selarón. It’s another must-see for any visitor to Rio, and will be covered in more depth in a future post about the area where it’s located, Lapa.

If you climb all the way to the top of the stairs, you’ll find yourself on a road called Ladeira de Santa Teresa. Turn left and continue up the hill, and when you come to the T-intersection, turn right. Follow Rua Dias de Barros, which turns into Rua Alm. Alexandrino, and you’ll find yourself at Largo do Guimarães.

Option 2: Take the tram

The old-fashioned yellow tram is a symbol of Santa Teresa and one of the reasons this neighborhood feels so much like Lisbon. Riding the tram is an easy way to get from Centro (Rio’s downtown) to Santa Teresa. It starts at the Estação de Bondes de Santa Teresa, passes over the Carioca Aqueduct, and runs along Rua Joaquim Murtinho, which merges into Rua Alm. Alexandrino at Largo do Curvelo.

The final stop of the tram line is here. After a brief stop, it turns around and goes back towards downtown. I have some more comments about the tram as a tourist attraction at the end of this post, but if you’re using it as a means of transportation, I recommend staying on until it reaches the terminal stop and turns around. You can get off at Largo do Guimarães on the return trip.

Option 3: Use Uber

Uber and other similar apps are the most straightforward way to make it to Largo do Guimarães. However, it’s the least scenic means of transportation.

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Points of Interest in Santa Teresa

Now that you know how to get there, let’s take a look at some of the things that make Santa Teresa such an interesting part of Rio de Janeiro.

Traditional Architecture

This area is reminiscent of Lisbon due to the traditional Portugese architecture and the winding cobblestone streets with trolley tracks. If you look at a map of Largo do Guimarães, the whole thing can end up looking pretty maze-like, so it’s best to just arrive and get a sense of the layout on foot.

In terms of architecture, Santa Teresa has a lot of bright colors, typical red tile rooftops, azulejos (Portuguese ceramic tiles that are often but not always blue and white), as well as the occasional castle motif.

It’s clear that at least in the vicinity of Largo do Guimarães, Santa Teresa is a pretty upscale residential area.

Bars and Restaurants

A quick walk around the neighborhood is all you need to know that a lot of trendy bars and restaurants are clustered near Largo do Guimarães. Here are three that I tried to give you an idea of what’s available.

Café do Alto

I will never turn down cuisine from the Brazilian northeast, so I had to get lunch at Café do Alto when I passed by it. The fish with farofa and mashed plantain I got was amazing! So was the roll cake (bolo de rolo) for dessert, which is a specialty from Pernambuco.

Térèze

This high-end restaurant connected to the MGallery Santa Teresa Hotel offers a creative, modern menu. I enjoyed the vegan moqeuca I ordered and the pavlova cake served with passion fruit and ice cream for dessert.

Explorer Bar

This bar with a large outdoor patio had a unique selection of cocktails inspired from Brazil and around the world. Their food menu includes some international dishes, so I’m hoping to go back and see if they make a good nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice) or satay chicken. The two drinks I tried were delicious, so I imagine the food would be good, too!

Scenic Viewpoints

Be sure to take some time while you’re in Santa Teresa to admire the panoramic views of Rio from the neighborhood’s many lookout spots. Here are four that I found, but I’m sure there are others as well.

Mirante do Rato Molhado

This one has a funny name that means “Wet Rat Lookout” in Portuguese, but the view of Niterói to the southeast is amazing, especially with the domestic airport and the area known as Glória in the foreground.

Rua Joaquim Murtinho

Follow the trolley tracks from Largo do Curvelo down the hill a bit to see a relatively close-up view of the city skyline, including a good view of the Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião (the cone-shaped cathedral) and the Edifício Sede da Petrobras (a corporate building that has a unique checkerboard design).

Rua Dias de Barros

This quiet little lookout that you’ll pass by if you’re walking up from Escadaria Selarón offers a unique perspective of Botafogo and Pão de Açucar looking directly south.

Rua Alm. Alexandrino

From Largo do Guimarães, this road snakes its way to the southwest along the crest of a hill ridge. It offers some incredible views of downtown Rio and Guanabara Bay to the north. It also will allow you to see some favelas without having to enter them.

I’ve been as far south as the final trolley stop (located here).Walking along this part of the road didn’t feel dangerous, but it was a pretty quiet street. Staying alert is never a bad idea. You could also ride the trolley down to this point and then walk back; below is a bit more information about that.

Review of the Santa Teresa Tram

As mentioned above, the tram is a quick and convenient way to get from Rio’s Centro district up to Santa Teresa. However, you should be aware that it’s not exactly the best tourist attraction, and here’s why. The trolley moves pretty quickly and whisks passengers through the center of Santa Teresa without giving them much time to take anything in. There’s also no tour or narration, so it’s not a great way to learn about anything you’re seeing.

Furthermore, the trolley route starts downtown, ends at a fairly random stop, then returns to the city center along the same route. If you’re not paying attention, you’ll end up exactly where you started! That’s why I recommend getting off at Largo do Guimarães on the return trip. Adventurous travelers who want to enjoy the views along Rua Alm. Alexandrino can alternatively get off at Dois Irmãos trolley stop and walk about half an hour back to Largo do Guimarães.

Is riding the tram a cool thing to do? Yes. Are you missing out on an integral experience if you don’t have time for it? No. From downtown, tickets can be purchased at the station here and cost 20 BRL for a round-trip.

Would you visit Santa Teresa?

Travelers who are only spending a couple days in Rio de Janeiro may not have time to check out Santa Teresa. But if you’re staying for a week or longer, you should absolutely spend an afternoon over there on a clear day. The views are stunning and the bohemian atmosphere is a nice change of pace from the crowded beaches.

What do you think? Does this lesser-known part of Rio interest you? Leave a comment below and let me know! If you are heading that way, enjoy your time at Largo do Guimarães! Thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Jan 3, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

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The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Fri, 01 Jan 2021 15:00:00 +0000

The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix

Published January 1, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

As a travel blogger, I’ve lived in both Vietnam and Brazil, the two largest coffee-producing countries in the world. While Vietnam has more coffee shops than you can ever dream of, they’re much harder to come by in Brazil. Luckily, this hasn’t stopped me from looking! After living in Rio de Janeiro for almost four months, I’ve found the city’s best places to get a latte, mocha, or espresso. This blog post will feature some of my top recommendations!

To skip down to any of the cafes on the list, click or tap the link below!

Tiny Cat Café
Confeitaria Colombo
Bendito Cookies Brownies Café
Mini Joe Café
Fika Cafés Especiais
Mô Café
Rishikesh Café (Govardhana Hari Restaurante)
Empório Jardim
Casa Cavé
Dark Coffee Centro Rio

Disclaimer For My Food Guides When patronizing restaurants, bars, and cafes for my food guide blog posts, I always pay full price. I never request discounts or free menu items in exchange for being featured here. As such, all opinions are completely my own!

1. Tiny Cat Café

Address: Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 308 – loja B – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22020-001
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafetinycat
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafetinycat/

Tiny Cat Café is at the top of the list because it’s my favorite coffeeshop in Rio. Their decor and branding are on point, and of course, they make a great cup of coffee! I’ve been a regular customer for months and tend to order their vanilla cold brew. They also make great lattes and other hot drinks.

The staff at Tiny Cat are also really friendly and welcoming. (Just be aware that this cafe doesn’t have actual cats roaming around, like some cat cafes in Asia do.) If you’re in Copacabana near the Cardeal Arcoverde metro station or Belmond Copacabana Palace hotel, be sure to check this place out!

2. Confeitaria Colombo

Address: R. Gonçalves Dias, 32 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20050-030
Website: http://www.confeitariacolombo.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ConfeitariaColombo/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/confeitariacolombo/

This massive, famous establishment in Centro (downtown) is an absolute must-visit for coffee and dessert lovers. Confeitaria Colombo has a gorgeous Portuguese dining room lined with huge mirrors, glass cupboards, and traditional floor tiles. If you’re a fan of egg tarts (pastéis de nata), this is a great place to get a few.

You can also order a full meal here, and it’s my understanding that the upper floor is reserved for customers dining in for lunch. During peak hours, you may have to wait a bit to be seated.

3. Bendito Cookies Brownies Café

Address: Condomínio do Edifício Pilar – Rua Hilário de Gouvêia, 88 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22040-020
Website: https://benditocookies.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/benditocookies/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/benditocookies/

I have to admit that Bendito Café is more of a cookie shop than a coffeehouse, but don’t let that stop you from visiting! Tucked away in the interior of Copacabana a few blocks in from the beach, this little store serves their cookies hot, and they truly melt in your mouth. I can’t remember the last time I had such amazing store-bought cookies!

If you’re going to get a cookie or two, be sure to order a latte or mocha to go with it! The coffee and sweets from Bendito go great together.

Bendito Cookies Brownies Café has a few other locations around Rio de Janeiro as well, but their website doesn’t list exact addresses as of January 2021.

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4. Mini Joe Café

Address: Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 300 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22020-001
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/minijoe.cafe/

This sleek, modern coffee shop is actually right next to Tiny Cat. If you’re staying in or near Copacabana, you might as well check out both! Mini Joe has a creative menu with unique offerings such as coffee infused with orange and cinnamon. They also make a good cold brew.

5. Fika Cafés Especiais

Address: R. do Carmo, 58 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20011-020
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fika%20Cafes%20Rj/233948600847463/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fikacafes/

I am actually not sure if the name “Fika” refers to Swedish coffee culture or is a reference to the very common and versatile Portuguese verb “ficar,” which means to stay. Either reference would be fitting, as Fika Cafés Especiais is an ideal place to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee for a while.

As you can see, they’ve got a very Instagrammable umbrella theme going on both inside and out, although I’m not sure if that’s permanent or seasonal. Fika is located in one of the narrow alleyways of Centro (downtown), so you could check it out after a visit to the nearby Museu do Amanhã or Ilha Fiscal.

The most notable thing about this place is its huge menu with pages and pages of coffee and tea selections. I just chose one of their menu iced latte options, and it was both smooth and rich.

6. Mô Café

Address: R. Santa Cristina, 181 – Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20241-250
Website: https://mocafesanta.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mocafesanta/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mocafesanta/

This is the perfect place to caffeinate if you’re visiting the beautiful neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Mô Café is small, but it’s got a wonderfully casual vibe. You can also check out the gift shop of the same name next door while you wait for your drink.

7. Rishikesh Café (Govardhana Hari Restaurante)

Address: R. Rodrigo Silva, 6 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20011-040
Website: http://rishikesh.com.br/about-us/ (or http://govardhana.com.br/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Govardhana-Har%C3%AD/690272131077964
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/govardhana.restaurante/

This cafe is actually the second floor of a vegetarian Indian restaurant that I will absolutely be featuring on my international cuisine and restaurant guide for Rio [coming soon]. The lunch combo they serve in the restaurant is amazing, but head on up to the second floor for a bright and open yet cozy cafe!

This is one of the only places I know in Rio that serves Indian chai, but they also do standard lattes. There are also some gifts and souvenirs for sale here, too.

Note that as of January 2021, Google Maps lists this restaurant’s name as “Veggie Govinda Sabor da Índia,” which is not accurate. Perhaps they renamed at some point, but don’t let this confuse you! The address and physical location on Google Maps is correct.

8. Empório Jardim

Address: R. Visc. da Graça, 51 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22461-010
Website: https://www.emporiojardimrio.com.br/en/home-2/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/emporiojardimrio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/emporiojardimrio/

This little cafe in the neighborhood of Jardim Botânico is well known for its breakfast, but it’s also perfect for an afternoon coffee break. Like most other cafes featured in this list, Empório Jardim has a meticulously designed interior; it feels sort of woodsy and outdoorsy.

When you see their pastries and cakes on display at the counter, it’ll be hard to resist one. The fruit tarts here go perfectly with their iced lattes.

If Jardim Botânico is a bit out of the way, Empório has a second location in Ipenema that’s easy to get to via the metro. That one is called Empório Jardim na Praia (Empório Jardim on the Beach).

9. Casa Cavé

Address: R. Sete de Setembro, 137/133 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20050-006
Website: http://www.casacave.com.br
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/confeitariacave
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/casa.cave

This one is actually more of a bake shop than a cafe, sort of like Confeitaria Colombo except that it’s a small fraction of the size. It’s housed in an elegant, eye-catching corner shop that is sure to pique your curiosity whether you know what it is or not when you walk by. What’s more, this happens to be the oldest bake shop in all of Rio de Janeiro, founded in 1860!

Walk inside and you’ll see a small dining room before turning left to order whatever sweets or coffee you may be craving. Confeitaria Colombo and Casa Cavé share a couple of interior design elements, including large mirrors on the walls and ornate floor tiles. If you’re interested in checking out a historic, culinary icon of the city, don’t miss this gem of a bakery!

10. Dark Coffee Centro Rio

Address: R. Beneditinos, 22 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20081-050
Website: https://www.darkcoffeebr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Darkcoffeerio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/darkcoffeerio/

This final recommendation on the list is a large cafe near the famous Museu do Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow) on Mauá Plaza. Housed in a long shop on one of the area’s quieter side streets, Dark Coffee isn’t a place you’re likely to find by accident. However, it’s definitely worth checking out if you’re spending the day in Downtown Rio!

They have a large menu of food and drinks, so I decided to try one of their cakes. I was also immediately intrigued by their cookie cup, so I decided to order that with a cappuccino inside it (shown in the photo below with the dollop of whipped cream on top). It was a very interesting, with the inside of the edible cup being glazed with a thin layer of chocolate to prevent the edible cup from crumbling and the coffee leaking out. I’ve never seen anything like that before, and I recommend trying it!

Well, that wraps up my list! Have you been to any of the cafes listed here? Do you have any other coffee recommendations in Rio? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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This post was published on Jan 1, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

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How To Visit Ilha Fiscal, Rio de Janeiro’s Fairytale Castle

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 22 Dec 2020 03:00:00 +0000

How To Visit Ilha Fiscal, Rio de Janeiro’s Fairytale Castle

Published December 22, 2020

The most famous attractions in Rio de Janeiro include Christ the Redeemer, the Pão de Açúcar cable car, Ipanema, and Copacabana. Visitors to the city will want to make sure they see these four things at a minimum. Beyond that, it’s really up to you how you want to spend the rest of your time here. There are so many breathtaking attractions that aren’t world-famous, and this post will focus on one of them: Ilha Fiscal.

Whether you’ve seen it from the waterfront in downtown Rio, passed by it while riding the ferry, or come across it while browsing a map of the city, the castle on Ilha Fiscal (which means Fiscal Island and is pronounced “IL-ya fis-COW”) is undoubtedly eye-catching. Its striking mint color is enough to pique anyone’s curiosity, and this post will explain how to visit.

There’s very little information in English online, so I’m hoping that this breakdown points you in the right direction! The castle tour only lasts about two hours, so it’s a great way to spend half of an afternoon and still have the rest of the day to see other things. I’ll start by explaining how and where to buy tickets, then give a short review of the tour, and end with some closing thoughts and comments.

How and Where to Buy Tickets

If you’ve already done a cursory Google search, you may have come across the official website for Ilha Fiscal, a bare-bones page that is only in Portuguese. If you can read the language or plug it into a translator, you may be able to navigate to an external portal that appears to offer online ticket sales, but I didn’t bother with this. It’s much more straightforward to purchase tickets in person on the day you want to do the tour.

A couple of useful pieces of information from the website include the scheduled tour times (12:30 p.m., 2:00 p.m., and 3:30 p.m.), their holiday schedule (under “Funcionamento”), prices (36 BRL per adult as of December 2020), and the fact that you’re supposed to check in twenty minutes before your tour is scheduled to start.

If you’d like to buy tickets in person, you’ll need to go to the Navy Cultural Space (Espaço Cultural da Marinha). I recommend going between 11:00 a.m. and noon for the best chance at getting the time slot you want. I would also recommend going on a weekday if you can to avoid crowds.

Paper tickets can be purchased at the booth at the entrance with cash or card. If you arrive a little early, you can wander around the Cultural Space, which has a couple of tanks, helicopters, and other things on display.

There is also a submarine that you can walk through if you have time.

Review of the Tour

Around twenty minutes before your tour begins, they’ll make an announcement over loudspeaker to line up at the main entrance. From here, they’ll bring you over as a group to this pier, where you’ll hand your ticket over and board an old-timey boat that will take you to Fiscal Island.

A look at the map shows that Ilha Fiscal is connected to Ilha das Cobras via a road, which in turn is connected to the mainland by a second bridge. However, visitors cannot access the castle this way as Ilha das Cobras is an active military area that isn’t open to tourists. This is why the only way to visit Ilha Fiscal is by guided tour.

The boat ride is short and sweet (about twenty minutes). There are some great views of the colonial architecture on Ilha das Cobras as well as a view of downtown Rio to the southwest. As you approach the castle and sail around it before docking, have your camera ready! After you disembark, it will be harder to capture the entire structure in one full shot.

Upon arrival, you’ll be split into groups and assigned a tour guide. He or she will show you various rooms inside the castle. The interior decor is elegant, and the stained glass windows are especially stunning.

As far as I’m aware, tours are only offered in Portuguese, not English or Spanish. My Portuguese was good enough to pick up that the island was given its name because it was a customs stop for boats coming into harbor before Brazil declared independence from Portugal. The Ilha Fiscal castle is also famous for the imperial grand balls that were held here.

One of the most stunning parts of the interior is the second floor, which you’ll climb a spiral staircase to get to.

There’s also a portion of the tour where you’ll get to wander outside on one of the balconies. During this time, keep an eye out for planes coming in! That’s because Rio’s domestic airport is a stone’s throw from Ilha Fiscal across a little section of the bay. Even with the pandemic, planes seemed to come in pretty frequently, and I managed to capture this video while we were out there on the roof.

After the organized part of the tour, you’ll be given about half an hour to wander the grounds on your own. This is when you can take pictures if you so choose.

Finally, the boat will bring you back to the same dock where you departed from downtown. From here, you’ll be free to go on your way directly (there’s no need to return to the Navy Cultural Space unless you want to).

Final Comments

I highly recommend this short tour if you have time during your visit to Rio. The fact that they don’t seem to offer English or Spanish tours suggests that Ilha Fiscal might be a better-kept secret than some of the other attractions mentioned at the beginning of this post. That’s all the more reason to go!

Some tourists might steer clear of downtown Rio (Centro) because there isn’t a sandy beach here and parts of it can feel a bit grungy, but I for one highly recommend checking out this part of the city. There are so many other interesting things to see near Ilha Fiscal and the Navy Cultural Space. I’ll be writing about some of them in an upcoming blog post, so keep an eye out for it!

Have you been to Ilha Fiscal before? Did this post help you figure out how to visit? Leave a comment below and let me know! I hope this post is a good resource for anyone interested in seeing this beautiful castle up close. If you’re in Rio right now, enjoy your time in one of the most stunning cities on Earth, and thanks for reading!

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This post was published on Dec 22, 2020

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A Walk Through Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sun, 20 Dec 2020 03:00:00 +0000

A Walk Through Ipanema,
Rio de Janeiro

A Walk Through Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro

Published December 20, 2020

Ipanema is Rio’s hottest beach in every sense of the word. Not only is it considered the most fashionable place in the city to be seen, but it’s also warmer than the city’s other beaches since there are very few shade trees and the sun shines down unobstructed until dusk. If beaches are your primary motivation for visiting Rio, Ipanema is one of the two major ones (the other being Copacabana).

Since visitors to Rio are likely to spend a lot of time in and around Ipanema, I’m writing this post as a guide and as a source of inspiration. Beaches are obviously pretty self-explanatory, but the adjacent neighborhood has a lot to see and do as well. This post will introduce the area, highlight some of my favorite things about the beach, and offer some tips and suggestions.

General Layout of Ipanema

As you can see from the map below, the neighborhood of Ipanema is a strip of land nestled between the Atlantic Ocean to the south and Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas to the north (Lagoa is worth exploring if you have time, this will be covered in a future blog post). To the west is an area called Leblon, and to the northeast is the equally famous waterfront neighborhood of Copacabana.

The beach in this part of Rio begins at Pedra do Arpoador in the east and ends at the far side of Leblon in the west. In total, it’s 4.0 kilometers. I’ve walked from one end to the other and back countless times, but I usually am ready to be off my feet and out of the sun by the time I’m finished.

Away from the shoreline, Ipanema is an upscale area with a suburban vibe. The main commercial street that runs right through its center parallel to the beach is called Rua Visconde de Pirajá (which turns into Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva in Leblon).

If you’re looking for a place to eat, drink, or have coffee, head over to this area. There are lots of casual options mixed in with some higher-end restaurants that I’ll be discussing in my upcoming restaurant guide to Rio post. Stay tuned! Leblon is also home to a lot of upscale dining and bars.

About the Beach

There are five things about Praia de Ipanema that make it such a unique urban beach. Check out my list below!

1. A Mountain With Two Peaks

Upon arrival, first-timers will find themselves captivated by the view of Two Brothers Mountain (Morro Dois Irmãos), which towers over the beach to the west. This rocky mountain is so distinctive because it’s got not one but two peaks, as the name implies. Although it looks pretty different when viewed from other vantage points in the city, it appears from Ipanema as if the mountain splits off into two pieces, almost like dorsal fins on a fish or shark. This makes it a very popular backdrop for photos taken on the beach.

If you’re at the far eastern end of Ipanema (Arpoador), you can even see a bit of the Pedra da Gávea, an even taller mountain peeking out from behind the Two Brothers peak. This stunning, almost otherworldly geography is my favorite thing about Rio. It’s what sets it apart from other great beach destinations around the world. I can’t think of another coastal city that has mountain views quite like this!

2. A Boardwalk Unlike Any Other

The other iconic thing about Ipanema is its boardwalk (calçadão). Running along the entire length of the beach, this unforgettable, mesmerizing pattern of black and white square tile appears to morph from a checkerboard style in the foreground to converging stripes at the vanishing point on the horizon.

Ipanema’s character and vibe are heavily influenced by the boardwalk, which is totally different from the wavy pattern that can be found on the much wider calçadão in neighboring Copacabana.

3. I Spy with My Little Eye... A Game of Futevôlei

This unique, challenging sport combines elements of football (soccer) and volleyball as the name suggests. It was actually invented in Rio de Janeiro in the 1960s. The concept is similar to beach volleyball and it’s played with a net, although you can’t use your arms or hands to get the ball over, and you can’t let the ball fall to the ground! Because that only leaves your head, feet, and chest to keep the ball in motion, futevôlei requires a lot of coordination and practice.

Cariocas (people from Rio) take the sport seriously, and if you see four people on the sand around a net in Ipanema, chances are that they’re playing futevôlei, not beach volleyball. You can watch matches in both Ipanema and Copacabana, and you’ll probably see a lot of beginners doing drills with coaches. But if you’re interested in really watching the game and seeing how it’s played, keep an eye out for experienced players who can keep the ball in play for multiple minutes.

4. Leblon Lookout (Mirante do Leblon)

This little lookout is technically farther than the edge of the beach, but it’s only about a two or three minute walk on the pedestrian path connecting them. It’ll allow you to see all the way down the beach on a clear day and offers a unique view of the Ipanema skyline.

5. Arpoador, Especially for Sunset

At the other end of the beach opposite Leblon is Arpoador. This massive rock formation sticking out of the water has a bit of a garden and pathway snaking through the bushes and cacti growing on it, but it’s not really handicap accessible. In certain places, it’s a bit steep. If you’re able to make it out to the far end, Arpoador offers a 360-degree view of the beach, Morro Dois Irmãos, the open ocean, and even Christ the Redeemer if there’s no cloud cover.

Arpoador is also one of the best places in Rio to watch the sunset. At least for the time of year I’ve lived here (September to January), the sun sets either behind Two Brothers or over the ocean. Whenever the weather is good, people come to sit on the rocks for a bit and watch the sun go down.

five Tips

As promised, here are some tips for a perfect visit to Ipanema! Click or tap a question below to skip down to it!

How should I explore Ipanema on foot?
What is the easiest way to get to Ipanema from other parts of Rio?
I’m looking for a panoramic view from above. Any suggestions?
Is Ipanema safe? What about at night?
Where should I stay?

1. How should I explore Ipanema on foot?

There are countless ways to walk Ipanema, and the most obvious would be to stroll up and down the beach. If you love to walk, I highly recommend exploring from one end of the beach to the other on foot. If you’d rather not retrace your steps, you can go back along the main street (Rua Visconde de Pirajá), especially if you want to browse for food and drink options on the way.

2. What is the easiest way to get to Ipanema from other parts of Rio?

Ipanema is very easy to get to via Rio’s metro system. Two stops serve Ipanema proper (General Osório and Nossa Senhora da Paz), and two are on opposite ends of Leblon (Jardim de Alah and Antero de Quental). The underground train system is safe, convenient, and easy to understand, with only one single line in this part of the city connecting Copacabana, Ipanema, and a couple smaller beaches further southwest.

3. I’m looking for a panoramic view from above. Any suggestions?

If you can find a place that offers a panoramic view of Ipanema from above, don’t miss it! One good option is Espaço 7zero6, a restaurant on the top floor of the Praia Ipanema Hotel. They have a pretty fancy menu in a casual space with floor-to-ceiling glass windows, so the view of the beach is amazing. You can also see Lagoa to the north.

The only odd thing about the lunch I had here was that the employees asked me not use my camera in the restaurant (which is by no means a big one with a huge lens, tripod, any other bulky accessories). The dining room was also almost completely empty, so it’s not like I was disrupting anyone’s meal. The other funny thing was that they told me this after I had very obviously taken dozens of photos with the camera, but just be aware of this before coming here.

4. Is Ipanema safe? What about at night?

As a touristy area, Ipanema is quite safe. This is not a beach where you need to worry about violent crime, and there is always a visible police presence throughout the day. As in most parts of Rio, the biggest risk by far is pickpocketing, so keep a close eye on your belongings.

Although I don’t consider Ipanema to be dangerous at night, people don’t tend to walk here after dark. In contrast, many more people seem to take their evening stroll in Copacabana. If you’re desperate to stretch your legs, this is where I recommend going. Copacabana is also better lit at night, and the beach bars tend to stay open later.

5. Where should I stay?

As a safe, relatively central neighborhood, Ipanema is where many visitors to Rio choose to book an accommodation. The other option for lodging I recommend is Copacabana (where I’ve lived the past three months). Both are beautiful, safe neighborhoods that are well connected to the rest of the city via the metro.

Both Ipanema and Copacabana offer great choices for any budget, although I’d imagine that Ipanema might be just a bit more expensive overall.

Are you ready for a walk?

I’ll admit that exploring Ipanema doesn’t require a ton of research beforehand. As a safe, upscale area and one of the most famous beaches in the world, it’s not too hard to figure out. However, I do hope this post provides some helpful insights and inspires some travelers to add Rio de Janeiro to their South America wish lists!

Do you have any remaining questions? Have you been to Ipanema before? Let me know by leaving a comment below! And if you’re curious about Copacabana, be sure to check out my comprehensive guide to that beach as well! Thanks for visiting Caffeinated Excursions!

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This post was published on Dec 20, 2020

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Things To Do In Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro: A World-Famous Beach

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 15 Dec 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Things To Do In
Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro:
A World-Famous Beach

Things To Do In Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro: A World-Famous Beach

Published December 15, 2020

Rio de Janeiro is synonymous with the beach, and for good reason! This gorgeous city is home to two of the most iconic urban beaches in the world: Copacabana and Ipanema. With a combined length of about 8 kilometers (5 miles), this stretch of coastline and the city streets adjacent to it offer an incredible variety of things to see, do, eat, and drink.

In this post, I’ll be discussing Copacabana (keep an eye out for another one featuring Ipanema soon). I’m writing this partly because I’ve seen some other bloggers complain that Copacabana is grungy and unsafe. Maybe that was true a couple years ago, but that hasn’t been my experience at all in 2020! I want to highlight the beauty of Copacabana and reassure anyone who might be on the fence! If you exercise normal precautions, a visit to Copa, as it’s sometimes abbreviated, is a can’t-miss part of your next trip to Rio!

I’ll start by discussing the beach itself, then talk about the area known as Leme on the far north end. After that is a short section on the interior (what you can expect a few blocks inland from the beach) as well as a couple safety tips.

Disclaimer Regarding Affiliate Links This blog post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase a product, book an accommodation, or schedule a tour mentioned on this post, I may earn a small commission (at no additional cost to you). If you choose to do so, thanks for your support!

Copacabana Beach

Praia de Copacabana is long (2.5 miles) and pretty wide. Its southern half boasts views of Pão de Açucar, Rio’s famous waterfront mountain. The most iconic part of Copa is its boardwalk (Calçadão de Copacabana). Made from black and white stones arranged into a mesmerizing wave pattern, this grand pedestrian sidewalk runs along the entire length of the beach.

Interestingly, Ipanema is paved in the same style but with a different pattern, so once you’ve seen both, it’s really easy to tell which neighborhood you’re in! These pavement patterns are defining features of both beaches. The unique mosaic style sets them apart from other top-notches urban beaches around the world like Cancún, South Beach, and Waikiki.

A Convenient "Post" System

Since Copacabana is so large, it’s divided into sections using a series of posts. These posts have a number of functions: they serve not only as landmarks, but also as lifeguard stations and bathrooms. “Posto 1” is on the north end in Leme, while Posto 6 is on the south end of Copa. Posts 7 through 12 continue along Ipanema, and the final one is at the far end of Leblon.

At some point, you might see people refer to general locations using these posts. They are often abbreviated simply as “p5” for Posto 5 or “P2” for Posto 2.

Sand Sculptures

Along the beach are a couple of large pieces of sand art that are maintained by local artists. Just be aware that if you want to take a photo of them, you need to leave a tip in the jars provided.

Other Landmarks

Most of the buildings across the street from the beach are pretty standard-looking apartments, hotels, and condos. They all have a certain minimalist uniformity to them, although I’m not sure exactly when they were built. You can tell that they’re not new brand new or centuries old.

The most notable landmark along the entire beach is the Belmond Copacabana Palace, a grand eye-catching hotel. Insider are a couple of highly-rated restaurants, which I might mention in a future blog post. If you’re looking for a truly luxurious place to stay in Rio, this is it!

The other main landmarks along the beach are a handful of life-size statues of famous Brazilians. You can find the one pictured below near Mureta do Leme.

Watch a Game of Futevôlei

Copacabana is known for its people watching, but you’ll definitely want to keep your eyes peeled for a game of futevôlei, especially if the players are good. As the name of the sport implies, it’s a mix of football (soccer) and volleyball, leaning more to the latter. Casual observers may actually mistake the sport for beach volleyball since it’s also played with a net on the sand. Watch for a minute and you’ll see the additional rule: using your arms and hands isn’t allowed! The only way to get the ball over the net is to use your head, feet, and chest.

This game is so popular here because it was actually invented in Copacabana in the 1960s. Locals take it seriously and there are lots of “schools” on the beach offering lessons. I would imagine that it’s a pretty difficult sport, but it’s fascinating to watch experienced players compete!

Beach Bars (Kiosks)

Walking along the boardwalk, you’ll pass by dozens of “quiosques” that serve fast food, snacks, and drinks. Some offer live music during dinner or on the weekends. Despite the pandemic, I’ve seen some of them get pretty crowded at night, but at least they’re fully outdoors.

Grabbing lunch or a drink at one of the kiosks is part of the Copacabana experience. With that said, don’t feel obligated to try them all. The food is usually fine but not extraordinary, and the service can be a bit slow if they’re busy. Once you’ve tried one or two, be sure to check out some of the other great restaurants in the area that aren’t on the boardwalk!

Other Restaurants

Copacabana is home to a lot of excellent places to eat and drink. Don’t just limit yourself to the kiosks if you’re looking for a traditional Brazilian meal! A lot of great choices are actually right across the street, on the opposite side of Avenida Atlântica. Many more are located a few blocks further away from the beach.

I’m planning on writing one or more future blog posts about my favorite restaurants in the city, so keep an eye out for that! I’ll link it here once it’s published.

Forte de Copacabana

The final attraction I’ll mention in Copacabana is this large naval fort situated at the south end of the beach. Check out the bunker area, wander through the attached naval history museum, and watch the changing of the guard ceremony at the front entrance. I’m not sure if entrance is free all the time, but it was when I visited.

Copacabana Fort offers a unique view of the beach since it’s built on a little rocky peninsula away from everything else. You’ll be able to see both the waterfront condos and hotels as well as some of the favelas on the hill further back.

Leme

This little stretch of beach to the northeast of Copacabana is technically its own neighborhood. There are a couple of unique things to see here, so schedule a bit of time to wander up this direction! (And if you need to mention the area in conversation, it’s pronounced “LEH-me.”)

Mureta do Leme

This short, concrete path is a popular fishing spot for locals and can be found at the end of the beach. It’s the place to go if you want to see an expansive view of Copacabana from one end to the other. On clear days, Mureta do Leme also offers a little peak at Cristo Redentor.

Forte Duque de Caxias

Copacabana is bookended by two military forts: Forte de Copacabana mentioned above, and Forte Duque de Caxias on the south end. If you want to see a panoramic view of the beach, this is where you need to go! A short hike brings you to the top of Ponta do Leme (Leme Point), a small hill. The view from the outdoor observatory is absolutely worth the effort!

If you look in the opposite direction (to the northeast), you’ll also get a pretty impressive view of Pão de Açucar and Niterói on the other side of the bay, as shown below.

Restaurants in Leme

Leme is home to a couple of higher-end restaurants with large outdoor seating areas and beach views. If you’re tired of fast food and in need of a nicer meal, this is a great place to browse.

La Fiorentina pictured here, for example, makes a great seafood pasta and they appear to have a long history of high-profile guests based on all the signatures and portraits on the walls.

Copacabana Interior

The city streets further inland from the beach are pretty nondescript. You’ll find restaurants, shopping centers, bars, and apartments, but there aren’t a ton tourist attractions. If you want to get a sense of what it’s like, you could go for a walk along the largest commercial street, Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, which runs parallel to the shore a few blocks in.

Especially if you’re pressed on time, there’s not much of a reason to spend an afternoon in the interior. With that said, many excellent restaurants aren’t directly on the water. In addition, you might want to be just a bit more aware of your surroundings the further away from the beach you wander. I’ll talk a bit more about that in the section below.

Safety Tips

A general theme of this blog ever since I came to Brazil in January of 2020 is that in my personal opinion, the country is just not the lawless danger zone that some believe it to be. This is also true of Copacabana. While Ipanema is slightly more upscale, Copa is in no way a slum. I’ve walked along its boardwalk almost every day for the past three months and have never felt unsafe or witnessed any crime.

Of course, I still recommend that you exercise caution and keep an eye on your personal items. Since there are always crowds of people plus a visible police presence, the chance of violent crime on the beach is not something you need to worry about. However, here are just a couple of the things I do to minimize the risk of the far more likely crime of pickpocketing. Click or tap on any suggestion to expand it!

#1 Visit on a weekday if you can!

I recommend this for a number of reasons. Copacabana is significantly more crowded on the weekend, which means there’s just more movement to keep track of in general. If a pickpocket was going to scour the beach for potential targets, they would almost certainly go on a weekend.

#2 Don't keep your things in your pockets.

This is crucial! Especially with so many people in swim shorts, baggy pockets are not something you want to have to worry about while you’re enjoying the beach. I always use my camera bag to hold my personal belongings because it goes over the shoulder and I can see it at a glance on my side. It would be much more difficult for a thief to unzip one of the pockets and grab something inside without me noticing.

#3 Stay along the beach after sundown.

Copacabana remains pretty crowded even after dark, so I’ve never felt unsafe walking on the well-lit boardwalk at night. With that said, the latest I’ve been out there is about 10:00 p.m., so I wouldn’t exactly recommend going on a post-midnight stroll.

Save any exploring of the Copacabana interior for daylight hours. That’s because the city streets tend to be a bit darker than the beach, and there won’t be as many people around. If I need to get from one part of the neighborhood to another and I’m in the mood to walk during the evening, I always stick to the boardwalk.

#4 Avoid the favelas.

Copacabana has a couple of different favelas nearby, including Cantagalo-Pavão-Pavãozinho in the south and the smaller Babilônia in the north. Favelas are almost always perched on the steep sides of hills and mountains, so you aren’t going to accidentally stumble into one, especially if you stay near the beach.

Having said that, I’ve never visited a favela in Rio and I don’t ever plan to. Favela tours do exist, and whether you go on one is a personal choice. To me, avoiding them just seems like an easy way to minimize risk.

Should you stay in Copacabana?

The answer to this question is yes! I’ve lived in Copacabana the past three months and loved it. Copa is well-connected via the metro to both Ipanema further south and the city center to the north. Whether you’re staying in Rio for a day or a month, it’s amazing to be such a short walk away from the beach!

Give Copa a Chance!

Well, that’s about it for this post! Copacabana may not be the most upscale neighborhood in Rio, but it’s such an integral part of the city that you simply can’t leave without at least spending an afternoon checking it out. I would even say it has a bit more of a local vibe than Ipanema, which is one of the main reasons I’m glad I chose to rent a room here instead of over there!

Have you been to Copacabana before? What are your thoughts? Leave a comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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This post was published on Dec 15, 2020

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How To Visit Rio’s Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain)

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sun, 29 Nov 2020 03:00:38 +0000

How To Visit Rio’s Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain)

Published November 29, 2020

If you’re planning a trip to Rio de Janeiro, you can’t miss a visit to the world famous Pão de Açúcar, or Sugarloaf Mountain. This huge, dome-shaped mountain right next to the ocean is the second-most famous attraction in the city (the first being Cristo Redentor, or Christ the Redeemer).

Pão de Açúcar is next to a shorter peak called Morro da Urca, and together, these two iconic mountains form not only a symbol of Rio, but a national symbol of Brazil. Although there are technically options to hike and climb up both, the vast majority of people visit both peaks via a cable car that connects them with street level. This blog post will focus on that, so let’s dive right in!

How to Get to Pão de Açúcar

Let’s start by answering the most common question visitors have: where do you need to go to visit Pão de Açúcar? The answer is the terminal station for the cable car, known in Portuguese as the “Bondinho” (pronounced ‘bon-JIN-yo’). This is located in the neighborhood of Urca, which happens to be my favorite neighborhood in Rio. If you have time, you should definitely explore the surrounding area. If you’re curious about that, check out my other blog post using the image link below!

You could walk to the Bondinho from the nearest metro station, Botafogo, but I imagine most tourists would probably prefer to take an Uber directly there. In my experience, using Uber in Brazil is easy and safe. You shouldn’t run into any problems as going from anywhere in the south side of the city where the main beaches are to Urca shouldn’t take you through any rough areas.

Once you arrive at the Bondinho station, you’ll find yourself next to a small beach called Praia Vermelha. This is a great place to check out before or after you visit Sugarloaf Mountain. Despite being small and quiet, it rivals some of the most famous beaches in the city like Copacabana and Ipanema.

What to Expect

The first thing you’ll need to do is purchase cable car tickets. As of November 2020, the price for the cable car is 120 BRL per adult (approx. 23 USD). I recommend going during the workweek to avoid larger crowds. Under normal circumstances, you shouldn’t need to book tickets in advance.

The cable car system consists of four separate rides: one trip up to Morro da Urca, a second leg from there up to the Sugarloaf peak, and two return trips. Each ride only lasts about two or three minutes. Needless to say, anyone with a strong fear of heights may want to reconsider visiting Pão de Açúcar. However, as far as cable cars go, this one is quick and smooth.

There is a fairly large outdoor observation area at the top of Morro da Urca. You have to disembark here and walk a short distance to get to the second cable car that goes to Pão de Açúcar. From this midpoint stop, the view of the city is already stunning.

Keep in mind that Morro da Urca is only about half the height of Sugarloaf, so there’s more to see! The second cable car will take you from one peak to the next. Don’t throw away your ticket, as you need to scan it for the second part of the trip as well as the rides back down!

If the views from Morro da Urca are impressive, what you can see from the top of Pão de Açúcar will leave you speechless. Not only can you see almost all of Rio, but you’ll also have a great view of Guanabara Bay to the north and parts of Niterói to the east.

As you might expect, I highly recommend visiting Sugarloaf Mountain on a clear day if possible. Because of all the mountains, Rio is often covered by low-lying clouds, and it probably wouldn’t be worth it to go up on an overcast day.

Both outdoor observation decks at Morro da Urca and Pão de Açúcar have restaurants and gift shops, but expect average food at inflated prices. I personally recommend eating before or after and only getting a drink or a snack at the top if you want to.

Go twice if you can!

Here’s a piece of advice if you’re going to be in Rio for more than a few days: try and visit Pão de Açúcar twice! That’s because the view during the day is totally different from what you’ll see at dusk, and you won’t want to miss watching the city slowly light up after the sun goes down!

A Note on COVID-19

As of right now (November 2020), the Bondinho is open, although it may not be open every day of the week. In terms of COVID-19, most of the time will be spent outdoors. Masks are required. The most densely-packed part of the trip is the cable car, although each of the four rides only lasts about three minutes. The cable car pod also has some windows that can be opened, so there’s somewhat of a breeze that goes through.

In my opinion, visiting the Pão de Açúcar should be a relatively low-risk activity. During my two visits, I never witnessed anyone violating the mask mandate, but I imagine that if someone did, especially inside the cable car, staff would intervene.

Where to Stay

If you’re curious about where to stay in Rio, a visit to Pão de Açúcar shouldn’t be the deciding factor. Despite being just a little bit out of the way, Sugarloaf Mountain is pretty centrally located. I personally recommend that visitors either stay in Copacabana or Ipanema, as these are the two largest beach areas. They are safe and well-connected to other parts of the city via the metro system and city buses, and both are a short (20-30 minute) drive to Pão de Açúcar.

Enjoy Your Visit!

I hope this blog post was helpful if you’re planning a visit to Pão de Açúcar! There’s a reason this attraction is world-famous, and I don’t think any other city in the world has panoramic views quite like this. Pão de Açúcar exemplifies what makes Rio such an amazing city: a stunning intersection of white-sand beaches, deep blue oceans, green and grey mountains, bustling cityscapes. At this point, I’ve already lived here for over two months and I’m still discovering new things every day!

Have you taken the Bondinho up to the Pão de Açúcar before? Do you have any questions I didn’t answer above? Leave a comment below and let me know! And if you want to stay up to date on blog posts, follow Caffeinated Excursions on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, or Pinterest! Cheers and have a great day!

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This post was published on Nov 29, 2020

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Why Urca Is My Favorite Neighborhood In Rio de Janeiro

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 18 Nov 2020 03:00:31 +0000

Why Urca Is My Favorite Neighborhood In Rio de Janeiro

Published November 18, 2020

Hi guys, and welcome to Caffeinated Excursions. As you can see, this blog post is dedicated to my loving grandma, Vicki, who passed away too soon due to COVID-19. She was a traveler and an adventurer who supported me and this blog so much. When I quit my 9-to-5 to become an ESL teacher in 2019, Grandma Vicki had my back and believed in me. She never minced words either and held each of her six grandkids to a high standard; our family is all the better for it. She truly made the world a better place and will be missed dearly.

With that in mind, I’d like to dedicate this post to my Grandma Vicki because it will cover my favorite neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro: Urca. Despite being so close to the center of the city, it’s a quiet and calm area. I think she would’ve loved the oceanfront walk, the cool breeze under the shade trees, and the European vibe.

Urca is also home to Rio’s world-famous Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain). This distinctive dome-shaped peak made entirely of rock towers over the city’s tallest skyscrapers. It’s so steep that the only way up is by cable car (there is technically a way to climb it, but this should only be attempted by very experienced climbers and the “trail” may not even be open right now due to the pandemic).

I’m writing a separate blog post about how to visit by cable car, since it’s one of Rio’s must-see attractions. This post will feature some of the other things to see and do in this quaint and calm part of an otherwise bustling city.

Highlights of Urca

Defining Features of the Area

Since Urca is located at the foot of a massive stone mountain, the most interesting thing about it is that if you look up, you’ll see these incredibly large walls of rock towering over the houses and apartments. It almost feels like being in a canyon, except there’s always a waterfront within a block or two.

In addition, Urca has a lot of traditional architecture. Although Rio’s downtown has even older colonial structures, this neighborhood appears to have been very upscale back in the day. Many of the houses are grand and regal, and most appear to be in good condition.

Finally, since Urca is surrounded on three sides by water, it’s home to some of my favorite beaches in Rio. They’re a little more out of the way than the more famous Copacabana and Ipanema, so they’re usually less crowded. The next section will highlight the two main beaches.

Beaches

Praia Vermelha

The larger of the two beaches is called Praia Vermelha, which means “Red Beach” and can be found here. What makes this one unique is that it’s surrounded by stone cliffs on both sides. On very clear days, you can even see all the way across the bay to Niterói.

To get to Praia Vermelha, you’ll have to walk through Praça General Tibúrcio (General Tibúrcio Plaza), which feels a lot like a public garden. It’s got a monument and a reflecting pool, and there are a couple of other marble statues nearby.

Praia Vermelha is also where the terminal station is for the cable car. If you want to go to the top of Pão de Açúcar, this is where you should head.

Praia da Urca

The other public beach in the area is Praia da Urca. This tiny white sand beach is only a ten or fifteen minute walk from Praia Vermelha, but it faces inland and offers a stunning view of downtown Rio as well as Christ the Redeemer on a clear day.

Behind Praia Urca are two historic buildings: the IED Rio, which I believe is home to a cafe, and Predio da antiga TV Tupi, which I think is an abandoned TV broadcasting station.

Mureta da Urca

The word “mureta” means little wall, and it refers to the waterfront pedestrian path that runs all the way along Urca’s shoreline. It is easy to walk and offers a view of both the Sugarloaf Mountain as well as the areas known as Botafogo and Flamengo on the other side of the water.

Like many other scenic walks in Brazil, Mureta da Urca is made of calçada portuguesa, or Portuguese pavement. This distinctive type of pavement is made of square-shaped stones that are often arranged in black and white mosaic patterns.

Street Art

Like many other parts of Rio, Urca and the main road connecting it to the rest of the city boast a lot of impressive street art and murals. Keep an eye out for them as you explore on foot!

Traditional Architecture

Compared to the slightly more modern areas further south, much of the architecture in Urca has been preserved and maintained. Perhaps this is because it’s not the most convenient place to live for people who work downtown. Maybe the steep cliffs make it difficult to developers to build high-rises here. Regardless of the reason, I love Urca’s historic vibe because it feels more European than many other parts of Rio.

Food Options

There are a couple of bars and restaurants near both beaches mentioned above. However, Urca doesn’t have a ton of restaurant options seeing as it’s mostly residential. I personally recommend eating before you visit Urca and then grabbing a snack or drink here if you want to.

Fortaleza de São João

If you walk all the way along the mureta, you’ll find yourself at Fortaleza de São João, a large fort occupying the furthest part of the peninsula. There’s a checkpoint to enter, and when I asked if foreigners could visit, they said it was only open to military personnel. There appear to be some extra beaches and a museum here, but they don’t appear to be accessible to tourists.

How to Get to Urca

Urca is a short Uber ride from most parts of Rio. If you want to take public transport, the closest metro stop is Botafogo. From there, you’ll walk about twenty minutes east along Avenida Pasteur. This involves crossing some major roads though, and although there are a series of crosswalks and underpasses, it can be a bit confusing. If you’d rather not deal with that, Uber is probably the easiest choice. You could call the car to bring you to Praia Vermelha and then easily walk to everything else mentioned in this post.

Please Stay Safe & Healthy, Friends

I hope you enjoyed reading about Urca and learning about my Grandma Vicki if you don’t know me or her personally. I want to end this post reminding everyone to stay as safe as possible, especially as COVID case numbers seem to be spiking in the Northern Hemisphere, perhaps due to the changing seasons. If you’ve also lost a loved one to this terrible pandemic, I feel your loss.

I want to thank you guys for reading! Be sure to check back soon for my next post, which will be all about the cable car up Sugarloaf Mountain. Have a great day, and be sure to remind the people in your life that you love and appreciate them! Until next time.

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This post was published on Nov 18, 2020

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The post Why Urca Is My Favorite Neighborhood In Rio de Janeiro appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

A Visit To Ilha de Paquetá, Rio’s Tranquil Island Getaway

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 31 Oct 2020 03:00:00 +0000

A Visit To Ilha de Paquetá, Rio’s Tranquil Island Getaway

Published October 31, 2020

Welcome to the blog’s very first installment of Rio de Janeiro 360! This weekly series will highlight all the best things to do during a visit to Rio. Future posts will cover the city’s most iconic attractions such as Christ the Redeemer and the Sugarloaf Cable Car, but I wanted to start off the series with a little corner of Rio that most people have probably never even heard of. In fact, this island is so calm that it’s hard to believe that it’s only an hour away from downtown Rio by ferry.

This blog post is all about Ilha de Paquetá, a small island located in the northeastern part of Rio’s Guanabara Bay. Because it’s so easy to get to, Paquetá is perfect for a day trip from the city. This post will explain exactly how to get there and what to expect when you arrive. Let’s dive right in!

How to Get There

Getting to Ilha de Paquetá from downtown Rio de Janeiro is straightforward and very affordable. First, you’ll want to head towards Praça XV (15) ferry terminal, which is a short walk away from the Carioca metro station. Be sure to check the times beforehand, but as of October 2020, boats leave at 9:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. on weekdays, in addition to some later and earlier times.

If you are arriving by metro, the walk from the station to the dock is quite a scenic one, and you’ll pass by quite a few impressive examples of colonial architecture. This area of Rio (downtown, or “Centro”) is by no means a favela, but you will want to keep a close eye on your personal belongings.

One of the things I love about this day trip is that it’s so affordable. The ferry only costs 6.50 BRL each direction (approx. 1.10 USD as of October 2020). The boat itself is basic but comfortable. Vendors on board do sell snacks, but there’s no canteen or cafeteria. I recommend eating before you embark and bringing water and anything else you may need.

Unfortunately, the ferry doesn’t have an open-air deck, so if you want a view of the bay, you’ll have to sit towards the front. Be sure to keep an eye out for Ilha Fiscal, a small island near the port that has an eye-catching green castle on the water. About halfway through the hour-long trip, you’ll pass under the large Rio-Niterói Bridge.

Beaches

Arriving on Ilha de Paquetá feels like going back in time. Most notably, the island has no cars, only golf carts and bikes. As soon as you leave the ferry terminal, you’ll notice how quiet and tranquil everything is. Some sources online claim that 4,500 people live here, but the population fluctuates greatly based on time of year. Walking around the island, even residential streets were really quiet, so I’d be surprised if more than 1,500 people were there when I visited.

The main feature of Paquetá is its beaches. It’s fairly easy to walk around the island while sticking to the shoreline. However, there’s no clearly designated path or trail for pedestrians. With that said, there are a couple of dead ends if you try to follow the roads along the coast. A loop all the way around the island is about 7 kilometers.

The beaches on Paquetá are incredibly varied. Many of them have views of large, smooth boulders sticking out of the water. Along the west coast, the white sandy shores are long, flat, and open.

Along the east coast, the beaches are much smaller and rockier. You’re probably more likely to run into some seabirds here than other people!

My personal favorite beach is this one here, which is so small and out of the way that it doesn’t even have a name! It was such a good place to take pictures because the water was so incredibly calm.

If you stay on the island late enough to catch the sunset, you’re in for a treat. In Rio, the sun sets behind the mountains, so the views usually aren’t anything special. In contrast, Paquetá offers a true sunset on the horizon. From Praia José Bonifácio, it was simply spectacular!

A Park with a Fort

On the island’s southwest corner is a park called Darke de Mattos. With wide open grass lawns, a couple of small sandy beaches on the southern side, and beautiful palm trees, this public park is the perfect place to relax, especially if you’re not in the mood to walk all over the island.

The one thing you won’t want to miss here is a fort built into a rocky hill that offers a panoramic view of the island. I’m not sure if “Mirante do Parque Darke de Mattos” was originally a military structure or not, but with winding pathways carved into the rock and little offshoots and tunnels, it’s definitely unique.

Although almost every beach on the island is picturesque, the view of Paquetá from the fort on the top of the hill can’t be beat! Since the bay is surrounded by mountains on all sides, this is the perfect place to capture some gorgeous shots with clearly defined layers of water, beaches, hills, mountains, and clouds. Darke de Mattos Park looks like it closes every day at 5:00 p.m., so be sure to visit before dark.

Interesting Architecture

In addition to the abundance of beaches, another fascinating thing about Ilha de Paquetá is its architecture. A lot of it looks colonial, but many of the houses look abandoned. Some roads on the island are surrounded by stretches of tall concrete walls, hinting that grand estates are hidden inside. Perhaps Paquetá was an exclusive getaway for aristocrats a century ago, but it seems like it went out of vogue and only those who made a modest living by fishing stayed after its heyday.

Tips

Restaurants

This is my biggest complaint about the island: there are very few food choices, and outside of the town center near the ferry terminal, there’s almost nothing. I decided to try one of the half-dozen sit-down restaurants for dinner, and the baked spaghetti I got there actually ended up being delicious. Nonetheless, more choices would’ve been nice.

Accommodations

As I mentioned earlier, everything about Ilha de Paquetá makes it perfect for a day trip. If you choose to spend one or more nights on Paquetá, I recommend checking out Airbnb, which has quite a few cozy looking options. I actually liked the island so much that I may go and spend a night there sometime!

Walking around the island, I passed by quite a few hotels. Almost all of them looked temporarily closed or permanently abandoned. I’m really curious if this is a result of COVID-19, or if it’s just the slow season. I visited Paquetá on a weekday, so perhaps they’re only open on weekends. Nonetheless, I found this odd, since hotels in Rio proper have reopened again after lockdown.

Safety

I’m not quite sure what to say about safety, to be honest. In general, I felt safe on the island. However, some areas were just so calm and quiet that I felt like I had to remain alert. As I’m sure most avid travelers know, it’s usually safer to be around people than to be completely alone.

Be aware that Ilha de Paquetá is not exclusively upscale. There are areas that look quite nice and areas that look more run-down. There is even a tiny favela right here (pictured below), but it shows up as a dead end on the map. I don’t think tourists would accidentally wander in.

Returning to Rio

Whether you decide to do a day trip or spend a couple nights on Paquetá, you’ll head back to Praça XV in Rio out of the same (and only) ferry terminal where you disembarked when you arrived. The price to go back is the same: 6.50 BRL.

Again, double check times just to be safe (so that you don’t find yourself stuck on the island overnight!), but it looks like return ferries depart at 5:20 p.m. and 7:40 p.m. on weekdays. Purchase tickets directly at the ferry terminal.

Ilha de Paquetá: A True Gem

Overall, Ilha de Paquetá is a fascinating little slice of Rio de Janeiro that I assume the vast majority of tourists don’t make it to while vacationing here. If you’re spending less than a week in the city, I’d say that you can skip it unless you’re really drawn to these empty beaches. However, if you’re going to be in Rio for two weeks or more, a day trip to Paquetá is a really interesting and memorable way to see some of the beauty of the greater metropolitan region!

Have you been to Rio or Ilha de Paquetá before? Are you planning a visit? Let me know in the comments below! If you liked this post, don’t forget to share it on social media! Thanks for reading and stay tuned for the next Rio de Janeiro 360 post, coming very soon!

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This post was published on Oct 31, 2020

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The post A Visit To Ilha de Paquetá, Rio’s Tranquil Island Getaway appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Rio de Janeiro 360 Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro

Walk Around the Lake

Basic Info

Birdwatching

I Spy... Cristo Redentor

Dusk and Night

Jardim Botânico

Parque Lage

Other Attractions in Lagoa

Mural Area

The Best Places to Eat in Lagoa

Didier Restaurante

Mr. Lam

Taj Mahal Restaurante

Guacamole Cocina Mexicana

Go Visit Lagoa!

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The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon”

Where exactly is Santa Teresa?

Option 1: Walk from Escadaria Selarón

Option 2: Take the tram

Option 3: Use Uber

Points of Interest in Santa Teresa

Traditional Architecture

Bars and Restaurants

Café do Alto

Térèze

Explorer Bar

Scenic Viewpoints

Mirante do Rato Molhado

Rua Joaquim Murtinho

Rua Dias de Barros

Rua Alm. Alexandrino

Review of the Santa Teresa Tram

Would you visit Santa Teresa?

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The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix

1. Tiny Cat Café

2. Confeitaria Colombo

3. Bendito Cookies Brownies Café

4. Mini Joe Café

5. Fika Cafés Especiais

6. Mô Café

7. Rishikesh Café (Govardhana Hari Restaurante)

8. Empório Jardim

9. Casa Cavé

10. Dark Coffee Centro Rio

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