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Should You Visit República, São Paulo’s Rough-And-Tumble City Center?

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 11 Mar 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Should You Visit República, São Paulo’s Rough-And-Tumble City Center?

Published March 11, 2020

The answer is yes, and this post will tell you how. República is one of three neighborhoods that make up the core of São Paulo (the other two being Sé and Centro Histórico). It’s home to some of the city’s most famous architectural attractions that you simply shouldn’t miss. At the same time, it may not necessarily feel as safe as most of the areas I’ve written about so far in São Paulo 360, a blog series about neighborhoods in the city.

In fact, República is a striking mix of incredibly ornate architecture and modern-day poverty. Homelessness and substance abuse are problems that affect many parts of São Paulo, but the former is especially visible in República. However, this shouldn’t scare you away from visiting the area as long as you exercise common sense.

I’ve divided this post into three main parts. If you consider yourself a novice traveler, you’ll want to read part one. Travelers who think they’d be comfortable exploring a bit more of República are addressed in part two. And if you’re a truly adventurous traveler, check out part three. Further suggestions and safety tips can be found after that (including one no-go zone). So without further ado…

Disclaimer Regarding Affiliate Links This blog post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase a product, book an accommodation, or schedule a tour mentioned on this post, I may earn a small commission (at no additional cost to you). If you choose to do so, thanks for your support!

Part I

For Novice Travelers

If what you’ve read about República so far is a bit of a turn-off, I totally get it. However, the neighborhood is home to one landmark that every visitor to São Paulo should see before leaving: Edifício Copan (The Copan Building). Located on Avenida Ipiranga, it’s very easy to Uber to and from if you’re concerned about safety.

Designed by famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer in the 1950s, this gargantuan S-shaped residential building is possibly the most famous structure in the city (if not the entire country). Edifício Copan has appeared in billion-plus views music videos and the popular Netflix series Black Mirror. Its ground floor is a modest shopping center open to the public, but the most impressive thing about it is its unique design and size.

At the time of writing (March 2020), rooftop tours of Copan are currently suspended to prevent possible spread of coronavirus (according to one unofficial source). Luckily, there’s another observation deck that’s open on a neighboring skyscraper: the Edifício Itália, shown in the two pictures below.

Admittedly, the view of Copan from the Edifício Itália observation deck isn’t amazing. There are large glass panes which prevent visitors from seeing the curvy building in its entirety.

Nonetheless, I highly recommend visiting because the views of the rest of the city from Edifício Itália are amazing. It’s impossible to comprehend how insanely big São Paulo is without seeing the skyline from an observation deck like this. An endless sea of white concrete skyscrapers extends as far as the eye can see in every direction.

In order to go up to the Terraço Itália on the 41st floor of Edifício Itália, you can eat in the restaurant (which looks quite expensive) or pay 35 BRL to visit the bar and order a drink (which are quite expensive in the neighborhood of 45 BRL per, so a minimum per person of 70 BRL). The cheapest and easiest way to visit is to pay 30 BRL to visit the outdoor terrace, which includes a free glass of wine.

As I mentioned earlier, you can easily take an Uber to and from the Edifício Itália (which has a ground-floor lobby with attendants where you can wait indoors). This is a great way to visit the observation deck especially at night, which is open until 11:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. depending on the day of the week. If you’re interested in seeing what else República has to offer and don’t mind exploring its biggest avenues on foot, read on!

Part II

For Middle-of-the-road Travelers
(Be sure to check out Part I as well!)

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Consolação

This massive stone church is located just a short walk down Avenida Ipiranga from Edifício Copan. It has both an incredible exterior and a beautiful interior with a stunning painting on the ceiling depicting angels in heaven.

Theatro Municipal de São Paulo

Built in 1911, the stunning Theatro Municipal is both a historical relic and an architectural icon of the city. It currently houses São Paulo’s symphony orchestra and is located here.

I’ve yet to take a tour, but a sign in the lobby indicated that tours are offered at 11:00, 16:00, and 17:00 on Tuesdays and 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:00, and 17:00 on Wednesdays and Fridays. The lobby also has a fancy-looking restaurant that offers a (fairly expensive) lunch buffet Mondays to Fridays.

República’s Nicest Avenues

The triangle formed by Avenida Ipiranga, Rua da Consolação, and Avenida São Luís is arguably the most upscale part of República. If you choose to walk this short loop, you’ll see beautiful green trees as well as a lot of calçada portuguesa (Portuguese pavement), a specific type of distinctive white and black stones that can be found in former colonies of Portugal around the world (as well as in Portugal itself).

Most of the area’s most impressive architecture is also located within and around this small triangle.

Eat

República is home to many typical Brazilian restaurants, but there are also a couple of interesting ones. My favorite burger place in the city is located here. The offerings at Holy Burger are delicious, and the decor inside is unique as well.

I also found the fanciest hot dog I’ve ever seen at Hot Pork, located almost across the street from Edifício Copan. The view of Copan from the restaurant is more panoramic than what you’ll see if you try to look straight up at it from the street it’s on.

I also like Modernista Coffee Stories, which has an especially chic and green dining area.

Part III

For Adventurous Travelers
(Be sure to check out Part I & II as well!)

Visit an art and antique market in Praça da República on Sunday

Praça da República (República Plaza) is one part of the neighborhood that isn’t super nice. This green space has a fair number of loiterers, and I would say there’s not anything too special about it on most days of the week.

However, on Sundays the plaza hosts an art and antique market that was interesting to wander through. There was an incredible variety of artwork for sale with a lot of vibrant colors. For whatever reason, many of the stalls selling antiques seemed to specialize in rare coins and bills (presumably Brazilian).

The adjacent Antiga Escola Normal Caetano de Campos also had some public performances as well as multiple street food vendors, so I picked up a delicious lunch of noodles and tempura.

You might be wondering: what’s so adventurous about an art market? Well, República is pretty quiet on Sundays. It’s not a complete ghost town, but most businesses will be closed and the streets will have fewer people. In my opinion, crowds are generally safer in Brazil than the lack thereof.

If you want to visit the Sunday art market without walking all over the neighborhood, the metro will drop you off right on Praça da República.

The Gallery of Rock and surrounding alleys

The most grungy part of República is the series of pedestrian walkways centered at the intersection of Rua Barão de Itapetininga and Rua Dom José de Barros. It’s not an unsafe area during the day and in fact is home to many shops and restaurants. Since it can get fairly crowded though, you’ll definitely want to keep track of your phone, wallet, and other personal belongings here.

The most notable shopping center here is the Galeria do Rock, which is home to multiple floors of rock- and grunge-themed stores. Home to record stores, eateries, tattoo and piercing parlors, and (for some reason) a lot of tee shirt printing shops, the unique theme of the Gallery of Rock matches its urban surroundings almost perfectly.

From street level, the unique design of the building is eye-catching even if you aren’t sure what it is. Its upper levels also offer great views, especially of the yellow church (Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Homens Pretos) pictured below located in the adjacent Largo do Paiçandu plaza.

And while you’re here, you might as well go check out the interior of the church if it’s open. The pastel blues, yellows, and pinks adorning the sanctuary of this historically black church give it a more inviting vibe than the city’s more massive cathedrals.

Go hunting for pixação

Pixação (also known as pixo) is a unique type of graffiti that is specifically Brazilian. Inspired by heavy metal album art from the 1980s, pixo almost looks like a foreign language. Its historical ties to socioeconomic inequality are fascinating (read more here).

As a form of protest, pixadores (pixo artists who are often from poor, distant suburbs) have targeted buildings in the center of the city that were traditionally occupied by the wealthy and powerful. That’s why pixação is so common in República, the part of the city center that used to be home to the elite.

Pixo is often scrawled onto seemingly impossible surfaces, like flat sides of tall buildings. Can you imagine how someone physically made it up there to paint, presumably under the cover of darkness because the act is a criminal offense?

Even though these are the most impressive examples of pixo, it can be found on surfaces high and low throughout República (in addition to other graffiti and street art). I recommend keeping an eye out for it!

Additional Tips

No-Go Zones

República is unfortunately next to São Paulo’s infamous ‘Cracolândia.’ As the name suggests, this part of the city is known for rampant drug use. It’s safe to say that you shouldn’t wander over, day or night. According to this website, ‘Crackland’ is roughly defined by “R. Mauá in the north, Av. São João in the south, Av. Dq. de Caxias in the west and Av. Ipiranga in the east.” In terms of neighborhoods defined by Google Maps, this corresponds with the two areas known as Campos Elíseos and Santa Efigênia.

The most important thing to remember if you’re visiting República is to stay south of Avenida São João. No attraction mentioned in this post is north of this major road.

Other Tips

As I’ve suggested earlier, São Paulo is best explored during the day. This doesn’t mean you can’t ever go out at night, but it does mean that you’ll need to exercise additional caution after dark. República is an area I personally wouldn’t walk in at night. Uber fares are quite cheap in Brazil so there’s no reason to risk your safety just to save a few dollars.

In addition to staying alert and watching out for your personal belongings, I would say it might be better to leave your camera at your hotel or Airbnb on the day you visit República. I haven’t tried to bring mine here, but I think that a large camera would attract a lot of attention that a smartphone wouldn’t.

In fact, every photo on this post was shot on my Google Pixel 3, which has a truly amazing camera. As a full-time traveler, the Pixel 3 is an amazing choice for getting crystal clear shots without having to risk having my nice camera snatched. If you’re interested in purchasing a Pixel 3 via Amazon, click here.

Conclusion

All travelers have a certain tolerance for risk, which is why I wanted to write this post with three different types of travelers in mind. As someone who has been forcibly robbed while traveling, I know what it’s like to be afraid of an unfamiliar place. I’m also always prepared for the chance of being pickpocketed (for example, by only carrying one or two bank cards and a small amount of cash).

In the end, República really isn’t that scary of a place. It’s seen better days, but it’s also seen worse days. As long as you stay alert and use common sense, a visit to this unique part of São Paulo should be an enjoyable part of your trip. Have you been to República? If not, how much exploring would you be willing to do? Let me know in the comments below!

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This post was published on Mar 11, 2020

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

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Tips For Visiting Vila Madalena, Home Of São Paulo’s ‘Batman Alley’

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 04 Mar 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Tips For Visiting Vila Madalena, Home Of São Paulo’s ‘Batman Alley’

Published March 4, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

If you’re planning a trip to São Paulo, you’ll definitely want to check out Beco do Batman (Batman Alley), one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. The alley was named after a single mural of the famous DC Comics character that was painted onto one of its walls back in the 1980s. That, in turn, prompted other artists to paint nearby surfaces, and now the entire area is one of the most colorful, decorated areas in the city.

Beco do Batman actually sits at the intersection of multiple neighborhoods including Pinheiros, Vila Madalena, and the smaller residential area known as Jardim das Bandeiras. Since Pinheiros and Vila Madalena are fairly large areas, this post will focus on a three or four block radius surrounding the famous alley.

This post is a part of São Paulo 360, a blog series dedicated to sharing the city’s best neighborhoods with adventurous travelers such as yourself! To read about some other interesting areas to explore in the city, click here!

Points of Interest

Beco do Batman

This is the main attraction in Vila Madalena! Batman Alley is a short pedestrian walkway that starts here on Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque and ends here on Rua Harmonia. The narrow cobblestone alleyway is home to some of the city’s best street art. I’m not sure if this is the original Batman that inspired everything else, but the most prominent one today is located here and shown in the picture below.

One of the best things about Beco do Batman is the incredible variety of styles and topics. However, many of the murals here have an undeniable Batman theme.

Another thing to know is that none of the art here is guaranteed to be permanent. Since there’s a limited amount of space, artists and locals have agreed to allow Batman Alley to constantly be updated with new creations. In fact, I visited Beco do Batman three times to research and photograph for this post, and some of the artwork featured here is already painted over.

Most of what’s on display is fun and light, but other murals are quite complex or heavy. Since Beco do Batman is so small, it only takes a couple minutes to explore, even at a leisurely pace. I recommend taking some time to really think about what each artist was trying to say. For example, the piece below delivers a critical message. What might it be about?

Restaurants and Bars

As a popular tourist area that reminds me a little bit of El Caminito in Buenos Aires, Beco do Batman and the surrounding areas have a nearly endless supply of bars and restaurants to choose from. If you’re having trouble choosing one, consider Café Madeira located right on the intersection of the alley and Rua Harmonia.

I especially recommend Café Madeira if you haven’t had a chance to try a Brazilian per-kilo restaurant. You’ll find a large buffet-style area with dozens of dishes where you can pile on as much or as little as you want. You then weigh your plate at the cashier and pay per kilogram of food. It’s one of my favorite ways to eat in Brazil because you can get so much variety in one meal! Plus, as long as you’re careful, you can get just as much food as you want without having to throw any leftovers away.

Cafes

One thing I don’t love about São Paulo is its relative lack of cafes. Luckily, Vila Madalena is home to a couple of unique ones. The first one I’ll mention is located at the intersection of Batman Alley and Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque. RomeoRomeo Cafe is the kind of place that reminds me of my favorite coffee houses in caffeine-loving cities such as Seattle and Saigon.

When I went, I just had to try their coffee with orange juice because of how unique that concoction was. It actually wasn’t bad! I’d say it tasted like a watered-down cold brew with a subtle orange flavor.

The other cafe in the area I like is a bit of a walk from Beco do Batman. Coffee Lab has an inviting yet industrial vibe, and this is the kind of place that attracts both tourists and expats as well as locals. If you need help ordering, staff here speak English. It’s also a good place to sit down and login to a laptop as long as it’s not too crowded.

Cemitério São Paulo

This is the least touristy thing on my list, but I’m still including it here because I found it completely fascinating. This massive cemetery only one block south of Beco do Batman has tons of graves dating back to the 1800s, and many of them are incredibly ornate. It was also interesting to see a lot of Japanese surnames on the engravings, which is a testament to how long immigrants from Japan have lived in the city.

Despite being very close to one of the most touristy areas in the city, the Cemitério São Paulo was almost completely empty when I went. It’s open to the public, but it was devoid of Instagrammers and the like. If you decide to visit, keep a low profile and know that the few other visitors may be there to pay their respects to deceased loved ones.

Pinheiros and Vila Madalena

Outside of Beco do Batman, these two areas are upscale, residential neighborhoods. There are tons of restaurants and bars, especially in the few blocks to the southwest of Batman Alley. I plan to go back and try a few more, and if any of them are noteworthy I’ll come back and update this post!

tips

When should you visit?

The best time to visit Beco do Batman is on a weekday afternoon! As you might guess, the alley can get pretty crowded on weekends. If your aim is to check out the art and take pictures, then you’ll want to go when no one else is there, which is on weekdays during typical working hours. If you’re more interested in bar hopping, then the weekend or happy hour might be a better choice.

How to Get to Beco do Batman

Batman Alley is conveniently located a short (ten or fifteen minute) walk from the Santuário N.Sra. de Fátima – Sumaré metro station. It’s a slightly farther distance from the Vila Madalena metro stop, or if you’re arriving via the yellow line, you could get off at Fradique Coutinho and walk north for about twenty minutes. Uber is another option.

Are you ready to meet Batman?

As a very walkable, safe, and colorful area, Beco do Batman (and Vila Madalena in general) is the perfect place to spend a sunny afternoon in São Paulo! Since street art is one of the city’s most important highlights, you’ll definitely want to go hunting for it, and Beco do Batman is a great place to start! To learn about another part of São Paulo that has a lot of street art, click here.

I’m still deciding what to write about next for São Paulo 360, but I’m leaning towards the neighborhood of República. As the historical center of the city, this neighborhood offers incredible, almost ostentatious colonial architecture that can’t be found elsewhere. However, it’s not the safest place to explore (especially at night), so you may want to spend a few days getting familiar with the city before heading to República.

If you’re interested in learning more, check back in a week or two for the next post in the series! And if you have any questions and comments about Beco do Batman, be sure to leave a comment below! Enjoy your time exploring Vila Madalena!

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This post was published on Mar 4, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

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Everything You Need To Know About Liberdade, São Paulo’s Bustling Japantown

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 19 Feb 2020 18:00:00 +0000

Everything You Need To Know About Liberdade, São Paulo’s Bustling Japantown

Published February 19, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

In major cities around the world, Chinatowns and Japantowns are popular tourist destinations, and I think that’s because each one is unique. That’s especially true of Liberdade, the centrally located neighborhood in São Paulo that’s home to many of the city’s residents with Japanese (and to a lesser extent, Chinese) heritage. If you’re visiting São Paulo and want to make the most of a morning or afternoon in Liberdade, then read on!

This blog post is part of a series called São Paulo 360, which aims to highlight different areas worth visiting in Brazil’s biggest city. To learn about some other great neighborhoods, click here!

What You Need to Know

Where is Liberdade?

According to Google Maps, Liberdade is a large area which is surrounded by the neighborhoods of Sé, Cambuci, and Aclimação. Its western border is the Avenida 23 de Maio and Corredor Norte-Sul highway. Luckily, everything of interest is concentrated within the space of just a few city blocks in the northwest corner of Liberdade.

For visitors, the most important street worth exploring is Rua Galvão Bueno. On its northern side is Praça da Liberdade (Liberdade Plaza). South of the Rua Fagundes cross street, there aren’t as many restaurants and shops, which means the heart of Liberdade is basically only three or four city blocks. Almost everything mentioned in this post is contained within the triangle formed by the following three streets: Avenida da Liberdade, Rua Barão de Iguape, and Rua da Glória.

Praça da Liberdade

This plaza is fairly modest and small, but be sure to check it out if you’re visiting Liberdade on the weekend. That’s when a bunch of vendors set up tents and sell snacks and souvenirs.

Praça da Liberdade is also home to a small church called Igreja Santa Cruz das Almas dos Enforcados. It’s not always open for visitors, but if it is when you’re there, be sure to take a peek inside! It’s over 100 years old, and there’s a stunning mural on the ceiling.

Rua Galvão Bueno

This main thoroughfare of Liberdade is like an open-air market every day of the week. Lined with Asian grocers, Japanese bookstores, antique shops, and an entire mall dedicated to anime and manga memorabilia, Rua Galvão Bueno is busy from morning until sundown. There are also a ton of street vendors selling knick-knacks and art; they’re easy to recognize by the brightly-colored umbrellas they use to shield themselves from the sun.

Rua Galvão Bueno also crosses over the Viaduto do Glicério (a large highway) in Liberdade. This pedestrian bridge offers an interesting photo opportunity, and while it’s not a fully panoramic view, it is a small glimpse into just how vast the city of São Paulo is.

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Have a Meal in Liberdade

As you might expect, one of the main things to do in Liberdade is to eat. If you’re having a hard time deciding, consider checking out Rua Thomaz Gonzaga, a street with quite a few options.

When I’m in Liberdade, my personal go-to is ramen. I need to check out a few more sushi places, and if I find any that are really outstanding, I’ll come back and update this post with suggestions! In general, any restaurant in Liberdade with a crowd during lunch or dinner is bound to be good.

In addition to good Japanese food, Liberdade is also the best place to find other Asian cuisine, including Chinese and Thai. Unfortunately, São Paulo doesn’t have as international of a food scene as other cities of similar size. So if you’re craving any kind of Asian food, Liberdade is probably your best bet. (And for those wondering, I don’t think Liberdade has any Vietnamese restaurants as of February 2020. What a shame!)

As a final note, I’ll mention a massive cafe and bakery located on Praça da Liberdade called 89ºC Coffee Station. Despite the name being an almost laughable ripoff of the famous Taiwanese chain, 85°C Bakery Cafe (which has locations throughout the world), 89ºC Coffee Station actually does make a good latte, and their pastries look tempting too.

Street Art

Like most neighborhoods in São Paulo, Liberdade has its share of interesting street art. However, there isn’t as much here as there is in Bixiga or Vila Madalena.

Safety

As a very popular tourist area, Liberdade is safe to visit. As always in Brazil, just keep a close eye on your belongings. Although the actual district of Liberdade is much larger than these few blocks, there aren’t nearly as many restaurants or shops beyond the streets mentioned above. Feel free to check out more of the area if you like, but you might not find much of interest.

The other thing I’ve noticed is that Liberdade gets pretty quiet at night. As a largely residential area, it’s not a center for nightlife, so for this reason I recommend visiting during the day. If you want to have dinner here, I personally just recommend taking an Uber back home.

How to Get to Liberdade

Liberdade is conveniently located near two metro stops on the blue line (Line 1): Japão-Liberdade and São Joaquim. This makes it very easy to get to from Avenida Paulista and other centrally located areas in the city.

Japan House São Paulo: Technically not in Liberdade, but don't miss it!

This cultural center may be about a half-hour walk (or a short metro ride) from everything else mentioned in this post, but it’s definitely worth a visit. Inside are art exhibits, a restaurant, a cafe, and multiple stores. Located on Avenida Paulista, the unusual exterior of Japan House São Paulo (shown below) will be hard to miss.

The first floor is home to an imported goods store, the Japanese bookstore, and the cafe.

The third floor is where you’ll find the exhibition hall. In addition to a number of photographs displayed on the wall, there was an incredible, massive installation that was made completely out of chopsticks, entitled ‘Construção’ and created by artist Tadashi Kawamata. It looks as if the exhibits rotate periodically, so you may see something different when you visit.

Final Thoughts

(And What's Up Next for São Paulo 360)

If this post seemed short and sweet to you, that’s no coincidence. Liberdade is easy to explore in just an hour or two (maybe three if you want to do a bit of shopping). Since it’s perfect for spending just a morning or afternoon, there’s no reason not to include it on your São Paulo itinerary! You’ll learn a lot about a very important community in the city and still have time to see or do something else on the same day.

For my third post in São Paulo 360, it’s going to be a fun one: Vila Madalena! This hip, upscale neighborhood is one of my favorites because of its famous artwork, cool cafes, and more. In fact, it’s home to the city’s famous ‘Batman Alley.’ Intrigued? Be sure to check it out in the next week or two! Thanks for reading, guys!

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This post was published on Feb 19, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

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Bela Vista (Bixiga): The Little Italy Of São Paulo

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 04 Feb 2020 03:00:25 +0000

Bela Vista (Bixiga): The Little Italy Of São Paulo

Published February 19, 2020

First and foremost, I want to say welcome to the inaugural post of São Paulo 360, a mini blog series that will feature various neighborhoods in this amazing Brazilian city! There’s no better place to start than the area I happen to be residing in right now: Bela Vista (Bixiga). It’s a beautiful part of town with a distinctly bohemian vibe. Before jumping into everything that Bela Vista has to offer, I want to answer one question you might have…

Why São Paulo 360?

I’ll be based here for six months, and I’ve noticed a distinct lack of coverage of São Paulo by many popular travel blogs. To fill the void, this series will serve as a comprehensive guide for visitors to the city. I also want to convince all serious travelers that São Paulo is worthy of a space on your bucket list! Not only is it the biggest city in South America, but it’s also much safer than you might think. If you want to learn some more general info, check out my initial impressions post that I wrote after being here for two weeks!

Where is Bela Vista?

Let’s first define the two areas that have been mentioned so far. Bela Vista is a large district which is bordered by the famous Avenida Paulista to the south, the Avenida 23 de Maio and Corredor Norte-Sul highway to the east, the district of Sé to the north, and the neighborhood of Consolação to the west. A map of Bela Vista is shown below.

Bixiga (pronounced ‘bih-she-guh’ and located here) is the town center of Bela Vista. It’s a neighborhood that spans a few streets in the northern half of the district. In my opinion, Bixiga is defined by two things: a ton of delicious Italian restaurants and an abundance of beautiful street art. These two attractions will be the main focus of this post. At the end, I’ll mention some other points of interest.

What makes Bela Vista unique?

Along the southern edge of Bela Vista is Avenida Paulista, the most famous and significant street in all of São Paulo. I’ll probably cover Avenida Paulista and its most important cross streets in a future post dedicated specifically to them since they’re more or less the center of the city. Suffice it to know that this part of Bela Vista is filled with skyscrapers, shopping malls, and a lot of traffic (except when it becomes a walking street on Sunday afternoons).

Bixiga is about a fifteen minute walk northeast of Avenida Paulista. It’s got a much more cozy vibe with colorful buildings, street art, and a dozens of Italian restaurants, as mentioned above. There are few if any skyscrapers in the area, and while it may look a little run down, it’s generally safe (although you should always exercise normal safety precautions in Brazil). Let’s first explore a few of the restaurants that can be found in Bixiga.

Italian Restaurants

São Paulo is home to a very sizeable Italian population, and many of these people settled in Bixiga. While you may not necessarily hear Italian spoken on the streets today, the most obvious sign of Bixiga’s history is its huge number of family-owned Italian restaurants. I’ve only been to a handful so far, but they’ve all been really good and are worth a try if you’re in the area. Here are some of my favorites.

Cantina Mamma Celeste

The first Italian restaurant I tried in Bixiga was Cantina Mamma Celeste, which is located here. (As an aside, if you’re wondering why all the restaurants pictured below are empty, I think I just went for an early dinner whenever I was hungry enough to get Italian food! Most restaurants in Brazil actually close during the afternoon and may not open until 6:00 or 7:00 p.m., which makes me think that Brazilians tend to eat a later dinner.) Upon entering, I first noticed the colorful decor as well as the checkerboard tablecloths.

I ordered a spaghetti puttanesca which was salty (due to the ingredients) but quite good. I also ordered a taça de vinho (glass of wine). If you choose to do the same, be prepared to answer the question, “Seco ou suave?” which basically means “dry or smooth?” Most menus don’t actually offer different bottles by the glass, so I think these restaurants typically have a ‘dry’ house red wine and a ‘smooth’ one. I personally recommend the ‘seco’ (dry). The ‘suave’ is a bit too sweet for my taste.

Cantina Gran Roma

Cantina Gran Roma was another good restaurant I found in Bixiga (located here). Gran Roma was the most expensive of the places I tried. In general, Italian restaurants in the neighborhood will cost between 50 and 100 BRL per person, depending on if you get wine and an appetizer.

The other phrase to know if you try one of these places is “couvert.” It basically refers to a small platter of appetizers that usually includes bread, olives, tapenade, and pickled vegetables. It typically costs around 10 BRL per person, and your waiter will likely ask if you want it as soon as you sit down. You can see what was included as part of the couvert on the small plates pictured below.

I also tried a spaghetti alla puttanesca at Cantina Gran Roma. I think it was slightly better at Mamma Celeste, but the dish was still satisfying here too. (If you’re wondering what puttanesca means, feel free to read more about it here).

Lazzarella

Located on Rua Treze de Maio, Lazzarella was the third Italian restaurant I tried in Bixiga. Like Mamma Celeste, they had quite a few Italy-themed decorations in their long and narrow dining room.

The baked cheese lasagna I ordered at Lazzarella was delicious, and I couldn’t turn down their couvert before the meal. If you’re going to try any Italian food in Bixiga, be sure to arrive hungry! Portions are guaranteed to be big no matter where you go.

Cantina Roperto

So far, my favorite restaurant in the area is Cantina Roperto (located here). The couvert as well as the ravioli I got there were top notch. If you only have time to check out one restaurant, this is the one I recommend!

You might be wondering why I got pasta at all of the restaurants and never pizza. The answer is that I think these high-end restaurants (50 to 100 BRL is fairly expensive for a meal in Brazil) tend to specialize in authentic pasta dishes. I did try pizza from a more casual restaurant in Bixiga, but it was nothing special enough to write about here. If I find good, authentic pizza, I’ll definitely update this post!

Street Art

In addition to great Italian cuisine, the other major attraction in Bixiga is the impressive collection of art proudly displayed on its streets. There is such a variety of styles that go so far beyond vandalism or graffiti. A lot of it is very personal and emotional work.

You’ll notice that practically every surface in Bixiga is treated as a canvas. Sometimes, art on the outside of multiple-story buildings will leave you wondering how the artist possibly even got up there to paint. Every time I go for a walk, I find a new mural or painting in an unexpected place.

It’s worth mentioning that street art exists almost everywhere in São Paulo. However, some neighborhoods have more than others, and Bixiga is definitely one where it’s a defining feature. Another area that’s famous for its art is Vila Madalena, which you can read about here.

Other Highlights of Bixiga

Bixiga and Bela Vista have more than just Italian food and street art. Here are a few other things you can find in the vicinity.

The Area's Most Photogenic Church

Bixiga’s most noteworthy church, Paróquia Nossa Senhora Achiropita, is located right in the center of the neighborhood. It’s not necessarily the most gorgeous building you’ve ever seen, but it’s nice enough to snap a pic or two.

My Favorite Cafe

Unfortunately, São Paulo doesn’t seem to have a ton of cafes. Coffee can be ordered at almost any restaurant, but I miss the cafe culture of a place like Vietnam, where there are truly too many to choose from. Luckily, a good coffee shop is located in the center of Bixiga called Nano Cafés Especiais.

It’s definitely small, but I’ve never seen it packed to capacity. I recommend their vanilla iced coffee, which is infinitely better than anything you could ever get at Starbucks.

A Nice Bakery

Right down the street from Nano Cafés Especiais is a bakery called Padaria Camões. In addition to a large selection of baked goods, they also have a sit-down area where you can order a full meal.

My Favorite Brazilian Restaurant in Bela Vista

To be honest, traditional Brazilian restaurants can start to feel the same after a while. They all seem to have very similar designs, similar prices, and similar atmospheres. That’s why a good one will really stand out! My favorite so far is Café Bistro Feijão de Corda, located here (a little walk away from Bixiga but still in Bela Vista). It’s got all the standard dishes you’d find on any restaurant menu in the city. But every time I’ve been, it’s been just a little better than your average lanchonete.

A Word About Safety

I know most readers are probably wondering about safety in the area. Let me try to address it here. Parts of Bela Vista and Bixiga look rough around the edges. It’s not a gentrified part of town. Homeless people do live here, although that can be said of most of São Paulo.

Here’s my advice. Keep track of your belongings closely. Don’t wear anything too flashy, especially expensive jewelry or watches. The biggest risk by far is pickpocketing. Violent crime is highly unlikely because there are always a lot of people around no matter where you go. If in doubt, explore the city on foot during the daytime and take an Uber if you need to travel at night. With that said, Bixiga is certainly not a favela and I’ve never had any safety issues here (or anywhere in the city, actually).

As a final note, I’ll say that all the attractions mentioned in this post are located around the intersection of Rua Treze de Maio and Rua Conselheiro Carrão, which is busy both during the day and in the evening. There’s not much for visitors to see north of Viaduto Júlio de Mesquita Filho, the highway bordering Bixiga to the north. If you have any specific questions, leave a comment below and I’ll try to help out!

What's up next for São Paulo 360?

If you liked this post and are curious about other parts of São Paulo, then keep an eye out for my next post in the series! No promises yet, but I think I’ll be writing about Liberdade, the largest Japanese community in the world outside Japan. If there’s a neighborhood you’d like me to cover as a part of São Paulo 360, let me know! I’m definitely open to suggestions!

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This post was published on Feb 19, 2020

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São Paulo 360 Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

Should You Visit República, São Paulo’s Rough-And-Tumble City Center?

Part I

For Novice Travelers

Part II

For Middle-of-the-road Travelers(Be sure to check out Part I as well!)

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Consolação

Theatro Municipal de São Paulo

República’s Nicest Avenues

Eat

Part III

For Adventurous Travelers(Be sure to check out Part I & II as well!)

Visit an art and antique market in Praça da República on Sunday

The Gallery of Rock and surrounding alleys

Go hunting for pixação

Additional Tips

No-Go Zones

Other Tips

Conclusion

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Tips For Visiting Vila Madalena, Home Of São Paulo’s ‘Batman Alley’

Points of Interest

Beco do Batman

Restaurants and Bars

Cafes

Cemitério São Paulo

Pinheiros and Vila Madalena

tips

When should you visit?

How to Get to Beco do Batman

Are you ready to meet Batman?

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Where I Am Now

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Everything You Need To Know About Liberdade, São Paulo’s Bustling Japantown

What You Need to Know

Where is Liberdade?

Praça da Liberdade

Rua Galvão Bueno

Have a Meal in Liberdade

Street Art

Safety

How to Get to Liberdade

Japan House São Paulo: Technically not in Liberdade, but don't miss it!

Final Thoughts

(And What's Up Next for São Paulo 360)

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Bela Vista (Bixiga): The Little Italy Of São Paulo

Why São Paulo 360?

For Middle-of-the-road Travelers
(Be sure to check out Part I as well!)

For Adventurous Travelers
(Be sure to check out Part I & II as well!)