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Things To Do In Saigon: Tips From Someone Who Lived There

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sun, 08 Dec 2019 08:00:00 +0000

Things To Do In Saigon: Tips From Someone Who Lived There

Published December 8, 2019

When I first moved to Vietnam, I wanted to write a blog post after a few weeks showcasing what Saigon (otherwise known as Ho Chi Minh City, or HCMC) has to offer. For better or worse, I never got around to it. I think I felt like there was always something left to discover that I’d want to add after the fact. Luckily, now that I’ve moved away, there’s no reason to procrastinate any longer, and here it is!

Saigon is Vietnam’s largest city and center for finance. Its city center is modern and cosmopolitan, making it an ideal place for expats and foreign visitors alike. Due to its location in the south of the country, the weather is hot all year long. As Vietnam’s tourism industry booms, more and more people are spending at least a few days in Saigon. If you’re going to be one of them, read on to see what you should do during your visit!

Click any of the links below to skip directly to that section.

A Cathedral and a Post Office
The Opera House
City Hall & Nguyễn Huệ Walking Street
See the City from Above
The Vietnam History Museum
Bùi Viên (Backpacker Street)
The War Remnants Museum
Bến Thành Market
The Independence Palace
The Famous Pink Church
Saigon Day Trip Ideas
The Expat’s Guide to Eating in Saigon

I’ll finish off the post by answering how many days I think you should spend in Ho Chi Minh City. Let’s dive right in!

1. A Cathedral and a Post Office

First on my list are two icons of Saigon: the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office. These two famous buildings are located in the heart of District 1 within walking distance of everything else on this list.

The Notre Dame Cathedral
Nhà thờ Đức Bà Sài Gòn

Start by admiring this church named after the original in France. However, know that the structure has been covered by scaffolding for the entirety of the time I lived there (from March to December of 2019), and it didn’t look like that construction work would wrap up anytime soon. The front of the church wasn’t obstructed, though.

The Central Post Office
Bưu Điện Trung Tâm Thành Phố

After seeing the church, head on over to the Central Post Office next door. This iconic structure houses intricate decor as well as an iconic portrait of Ho Chi Minh. It’s also filled with various souvenir vendors.

Here’s a tip: go around sundown to experience the post office without the sea of tourists. The tiled floor is beautiful, and you won’t be able to see it if there are a ton of people inside.

Nguyễn Văn Bình Street
Đường Nguyễn Văn Bình

The last attraction on this block is Nguyễn Văn Bình Street, located right next to both the cathedral and the post office. This pedestrian-only walkway is lined on both sides with bookstores and cafes. While most of the books are in Vietnamese, it’s still a quaint area worth exploring for a few minutes.

2. THe Opera House

Nhà hát Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh

Another interesting architectural attraction is the Municipal Theatre of Ho Chi Minh City, also known as the city’s opera house. It’s a stunning example of the kind of building styles that were brought from France during the colonial period. Although the exterior is beautiful, I would’ve loved to see a concert there. Unfortunately, I never got around to it. If you’ve been inside, leave a comment and let me know what it was like!

3. City Hall & Nguyễn Huệ Walking Street

UBND Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh

City Hall (officially known as the People’s Committee of Ho Chi Minh City) is probably my favorite historical building in Saigon. I recommend visiting both during the day and after sunset; it’s even more spectacular lit up after dark.

Ho Chi Minh City Hall is located at one end of Nguyễn Huệ Walking Street (Phố đi bộ Nguyễn Huệ). Nguyễn Huệ is also beautiful at night. It’s got a statue of Ho Chi Minh, a lotus fountain, and tons of shops and vendors on both sides of the street. If you walk down to the other end of Nguyễn Huệ opposite City Hall, you’ll find yourself on the banks of the Saigon River.

4. See The City From Above

The skyline of Ho Chi Minh City may not be as grand as some larger cities, but it’s definitely growing and becoming an important part of the city’s identity. Here are two ways to enjoy the view.

The Saigon Skydeck at Bitexco Financial Tower

Bitexco Tower is perhaps Ho Chi Minh City’s most recognizable building, and it offers a 360-degree view of the urban surroundings. Since the tower was completed in 2010, you shouldn’t have to worry about really long lines or crowds here. However, it’s always better to go on a weekday afternoon than a weekend if you can. Entrance costs 200,000 VND (as of December 2019), or approx. 9 USD.

Another option to go up is by visiting the tower’s bar, EON51. I did this once and I honestly recommend just paying the fee for the observation deck instead. That’s because the bar tends to be crowded and it’s not easy to see the whole city with so many people seated next to the windows. You also won’t really save much money this way since drinks are pretty pricey up there.

An alternative to the Saigon Skydeck is Landmark 81. It’s further away from the city center, but since it’s much newer than Bitexco Tower and about 30 floors taller, entrance to the observation deck is more expensive.

My Favorite Rooftop Bar

Ho Chi Minh City naturally has a bunch of rooftop bars, so choosing one might be a challenge. My personal favorite is AIR Saigon (formerly known as Air 360 Sky Lounge), which offers unobstructed views of the city’s tallest and most famous skyscrapers.

AIR also has delicious, creative cocktails at reasonable prices. It’s located on the 22nd floor of Bến Thành Tower in District 1.

5. Vietnam History Museum

The Vietnam History Museum is perfect for anyone interested in learning more about the country. Acquaint yourself with ancient Vietnamese history as well as ethnic minorities as you admire the beautiful artifacts and artwork on display. Note that this museum doesn’t focus explicitly on the Vietnam War. Another museum in the city center is dedicated solely to that.

Next to the history museum is the Saigon Zoo And Botanical Garden. The gardens are really nice, but I always feel a bit iffy about patronizing a zoo, so I only went once and never had a strong urge to go back.

6. Bùi Viên (Backpacker Street)

When you hear ‘Saigon,’ do you picture backpackers drinking and bars blasting music seven nights a week? If the answer is yes, you’re probably thinking of Bùi Viên, one of Asia’s busiest and loudest bar streets. To experience it in full force, go for a drink after dark on a Friday or Saturday night.

I have mixed feelings about Bùi Viên (as I assume most expats in HCMC do). Although it can be fun, it can also be overwhelming. I personally found myself visiting its cafes and restaurants during the day more often than going to the bars at night. If you’d like to see it without so much commotion, I recommend you do the same.

7. The War Remnants Museum

Bảo tàng Chứng tích Chiến tranh

This is such an important museum to visit because it tells the story of the Vietnam War from a different perspective than you’re probably used to (if you’re from America or Europe). Come with an open mind and a willingness to read and learn about the impacts the war had, especially in the south of Vietnam.

A major focus of the museum is the lasting impact and terrible suffering caused by the use of Agent Orange as an herbicide during the war. Parts of the museum have graphic content, so it may not be the best to bring really young kids. However, I think the exhibit on Agent Orange is really important for most people to see.

I suspect that most American public high schools don’t teach their students about the human impact of spraying such toxic chemicals (I never learned about it during my history classes). If you’re also hearing about it for the first time, I highly recommend visiting the museum to get a fuller picture of the impact of the Vietnam War.

8. Bến Thành Market

Chợ Bến Thành

This huge market is fairly standard, but it’s the perfect place to pick up a souvenir or two. The bright blue and red neon lights are impossible to miss at night.

The surrounding blocks are also filled with street vendors and cafes, and one particular eatery worth noting is the Bến Thành Street Food Market. This large food court has international options and classic Vietnamese dishes (admittedly at inflated prices), but I always enjoyed grabbing a casual dinner here. To learn more about food options in Saigon, check out point number 12 below.

9. Independence Palace

Dinh Độc Lập

If you’ve had your fill of colonial architecture, head straight to the Independence Palace. It was built in the 1960s and its lavish interior has an undeniable retro vibe. I felt like I was touring a James Bond movie set as we wandered through the ornate meeting rooms and secret passageways in the basement. This building served as the home of the president of South Vietnam before reunification in 1975.

10. The Famous Pink Church

Nhà thờ Tân Định

You may have seen the Tân Định Church on Instagram, and its striking pink facade really is one-of-a-kind. Just be warned that literal busloads of tourists get off here to take pictures in front of the iconic structure.

Here’s a tip: the church isn’t extremely photogenic from ground level. Across the street is a Cộng Cafe with multiple upper levels of balcony seating. Buy a Vietnamese coffee or an espresso and go up for the best photo angle. I took the photo above from the third (or fourth?) floor of this coffee shop.

11. Day Trip Ideas

I’m sad to say that I didn’t take advantage of all Saigon had to offer in terms of day trips. Nonetheless, here are two I went on that I recommend.

The Củ Chi Tunnels

This popular attraction located in the northern district of Củ Chi is a great way to learn more about the Vietnam War. A guide will bring you through some of the tunnels and explain how they were used during combat. The tunnels are fairly small, so people who are claustrophobic may choose to skip this day trip.

See The Mekong Delta

I did a private day tour of the Mekong Delta when my parents came to visit, and it exceeded my expectations. For most of my time in Vietnam, I was under the impression that visiting the Mekong River was a multi-day commitment, and that simply isn’t the case. To read more about what we saw and did, check out my full review here.

12. The Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon

To be perfectly honest, daily life as an expat in Ho Chi Minh City isn’t defined by the sites and attractions listed above. On the contrary, Saigon was such a fun place to live long-term because of its infinite number of delicious food choices for very low prices. If you’re curious about what culinary delights await you, check out my “Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon”!

How Long Should You Stay in Saigon?

To wrap up this post, I’d like to answer a common question: how long should you spend in Ho Chi Minh City? My answer to that is roughly three days. Even if the list above sounds long, most of the points of interest mentioned above can be seen in an hour or two. If you want to go at a leisurely pace, four days is fine, but I honestly recommend moving on to a different part of Vietnam after that.

What else is worth seeing outside of Saigon? Well, if you’re planning a trip and still need ideas, check out some of my other Vietnam posts! In my nine months of living there teaching English, I managed to see quite a few different parts of the country. If you’re headed to Ho Chi Minh City for the first time, let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below! Thanks for reading and have an amazing time in Saigon!

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This post was published on Dec 8, 2019

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post Things To Do In Saigon: Tips From Someone Who Lived There appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

The Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 07 Dec 2019 08:00:00 +0000

The Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon

Published December 7, 2019

If you’re headed to Saigon as a tourist or an expat, I’m sure you’re wondering what the city’s food scene is like. Let me assure you: it’s amazing! But it can be tough to navigate, especially for newcomers. As someone who lived and worked there for most of 2019, I want to share some of my favorite dishes and restaurants I discovered in Saigon (also known as Ho Chi Minh City or HCMC).

This post is an expat’s food guide, which means it will feature a mix of authentic Vietnamese options as well as western restaurants. Vietnamese food is delicious, but let’s be real: if you’re living in HCMC long-term, you’re eventually going to crave pizza or burgers, and I’ve got you covered! After that, I mention some of my favorite bars and cafes. To skip to any of the sections below, click or tap the corresponding link!

Vietnamese Classics
Foreign Treats
My Favorite Bars
Where to Caffeinate

Disclaimer For My Food Guides When patronizing restaurants, bars, and cafes for my food guide blog posts, I always pay full price. I never request discounts or free menu items in exchange for being featured here. As such, all opinions are completely my own!

Vietnamese Classics

Let’s start off with some quintessential Vietnamese dishes. While this is by no means a complete list, these quick and cheap eats were some of my favorites that I would have a couple times a week.

Phở

The world-famous noodle soup known as phở was indeed a staple of my diet in Saigon. It’s slightly different from the variety you’ll find abroad, but taste it for yourself and see what you think.

While I made an effort to try as many phở restaurants as I could, I found myself going to one over and over again called Phở Lệ (website and Facebook page). At 70,000 VND (approx. 3 USD) per bowl, this place wasn’t the cheapest, but it was consistently delicious. They have two different locations: one in District 3 and one in District 5. The latter happened to be a short walk from my apartment, and they were always open late. An English menu is available for those who need it. If you’re nearby, give it a try!

Bún thịt nướng

This noodle-based dish is a meal I could never tire of. It’s a colorful mix of rice noodles, grilled sliced meat, a fried egg roll cut into pieces, shredded veggies, mint, a sweet and sour sauce, and chili paste. Bún thịt nướng exemplifies everything amazing about Vietnamese food, with each bite encompassing a full range of flavors and textures.

My favorite place to get bún thịt nướng was a street vendor near the War Remnants Museum. She always set up her booth right around this location and would be there during lunchtime on weekdays. She may not stay there forever, but as far as I know, she never moved spots the entire time I lived in Saigon.

Cơm tấm

I was surprised to learn that Saigonese cuisine was less rice-based than, say, Japanese or Chinese food. I actually found myself craving it at times. That’s when I would go out and get a plate of cơm tấm. “Cơm tấm” literally means ‘broken rice,’ referring to the fact that it’s a bit more dry than other types of rice, so the individual grains don’t really stick together.

Cơm tấm is usually served with egg, a simple vegetable, some type of meat, and a sauce that can be used for dipping or pouring over the plate. When you order it, you’ll usually get to choose which toppings you want.

Hủ tiếu mì

What Vietnamese food lacks in rice dishes, it more than makes up for with its large variety of noodles. Hủ tiếu mì is a perfect example of that: the name of the dish refers to two different types mixed together. Hủ tiếu are long, flat, and stretchy noodles that absorb any sauce they come in contact with. Mì are much thinner and curly, looking sort of like instant ramen. Put both into a wok with some marinated beef, green leafy veggies, an egg, soy sauce, and tương ớt (spicy sauce), and you’ve got one delicious lunch or dinner!

Bún chả

This dish is a delicacy from Northern Vietnam, so if Hanoi is on your Vietnam itinerary, you might as well get it from the source. If not, you should definitely get it in Saigon! It’s one of my favorite dishes, basically made up of rice noodles and herbs that are dipped into a bowl of broth with meat. It’s a lot lighter than phở and the soup has a different flavor, so don’t pass up one even if you didn’t love the other!

My go-to place to get bún chả is Quán bún chả Hồ Gươm, located here (although I believe they have a few other locations). It’s a popular meal though, so you should never be too far from a shop serving it.

Gỏi cuốn (spring rolls)

Fresh spring rolls are one of my favorite snacks in Vietnam, partly because they’re so cheap! A single roll can be as low as 6,000 or 7,000 VND (approx. 0.30 USD) and generally comes with a brown peanut dipping sauce.

Final Thoughts on Local Food in Saigon

Street food is an integral part of life in HCMC, and you might as well embrace it. Locals and expats alike find the best vendors around their homes and workplaces, becoming valued regular customers. It was always nice to wave hello to the local noodle lady or coffee shop owner (even if you just happened to be passing by without ordering anything). I really enjoyed that aspect of eating locally in HCMC.

If you need some more ideas for local meals, consider trying bún bò Huế (another soup dish from the region of Huế in Central Vietnam), bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwich), mì Quảng (yet another noodle dish), or bánh xèo (a shrimp and egg omelette-crepe). I lived in District 5, which is the city’s Chinatown. That was a great area for hole-in-the-wall restaurants, although District 5 is a little further out from where most tourists stay. Have fun and I’m sure you’ll find some gems of your own!

Foreign Treats

Saigon has a vibrant international food scene, which is one of the many reasons it’s a comfortable place for expats. While the choices are numerous, individual restaurants can definitely be a hit-or-miss. Here are some of the western places I like most.

Burgers: Rogue Saigon

Address: 13 Pasteur (Floors 2+), Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/roguesaigon/

Rogue is actually a rooftop bar in District 1, but what I liked most about it was their delicious burgers! Really good ones are somewhat hard to come by in Ho Chi Minh City, so Rogue was a good find. They serve other American bar food as well.

Fried Chicken: Texas Chicken

Address: multiple locations
Website: https://www.facebook.com/TexaschickenVN/

I feel a little odd including this one in here, because as far as I can tell Texas Chicken is just an international fast food chain with ties to Church’s Chicken (which I’ve never had the chance to try in the US). Nonetheless, it was honestly my favorite place to get fried chicken in Ho Chi Minh City. The food was always served hot and fresh with tons of flavor; it was just consistently satisfying. Do you have Texas Chicken in your home country?

Mexican: Gringo Tacos and The Taco Stand

Since I lived in Mexico before moving to Vietnam, I had fingers crossed hoping that I might find some good ‘comida mexicana’ in Saigon. Unfortunately but not surprisingly, choices are pretty limited. With that said, the following two places are worth mentioning.

Gringo Tacos

Address: 137 Calmette, Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/gringotacos1/

Gringo Tacos was opened by an American who was unsatisfied with the lack of good Mexican restaurants in Saigon. I, for one, am glad he did! The food at Gringo Tacos is delicious, and they definitely make an effort to get authentic (i.e. probably imported) ingredients like tortillas. My favorite dish here is their chimichangas topped with a surprisingly legit mole sauce.

The Taco Stand

Address: 12 bui vien #14, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/TACOSTANDSAIGON/

The other good Mexican place I found is called The Taco Stand. It’s somewhat hidden on the upper level in an alleyway near Bùi Viên, but they have a sign on the street to help you find it. The tacos are mouth-watering, especially with their unique grilled cheese.

There’s one other Mexican restaurant in Saigon you might come across called Rico Taco. I went twice and was not a fan either time. I found that it tasted more like Vietnamese-Mexican fusion (and not in a good way). I definitely recommend Gringo Tacos and The Taco Stand instead.

Dim Sum: Baoz Dimsum

Address: 86-88 Nguyễn Tri Phương, Phường 7, Quận 5, Hồ Chí Minh OR 190 Hồng Bàng, Phường 15, Quận 5, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://baozdimsum.com/

I am a huge fan of dim sum, so it was nice to find a restaurant specializing in it in Ho Chi Minh City. Staples did taste slightly different from what I’ve had in Hong Kong (or even cities like New York or Seattle), but overall it was a fairly standard experience.

Indian: Shanti Indian Cuisine

Address: 371c Phạm Ngũ Lão, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/shantivietnam/

Ho Chi Minh City has a surprising number of good Indian restaurants, especially on and around the famous Bùi Viên walking street. While I liked most of the ones I tried, my favorite place was definitely Shanti Indian Cuisine.

They make an excellent thali (multiple small dishes served on a large metal tray with rice) that has both vegetarian and meat-based options. The price is also pretty good for how much food you get. However, they also have other standard options on their menu such as curries and Indian rice dishes.

Pizza: Pizza 4P's and Italiani's Pizza

Saigon has no shortage of pizza restaurants, but most aren’t very noteworthy. In contrast, the two mentioned below are my favorites.

Pizza 4P's

Address: multiple locations
Website: https://pizza4ps.com/

Without a doubt, Pizza 4P’s is Saigon’s best pizzeria. The menu is extensive with lots of creative offerings, including different pastas and salads. It’s also a bit pricey, especially with appetizers and drinks. But if you’re going to splurge, this is the place to do it. You can add their signature burrata cheese to any pizza you want (shown in the center of the margherita pizza pictured below).

Italiani's Pizza

Address: 290 Ly Tu Trong, Phuong Ben Thanh, Quan 1, Ho Chi Minh, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: http://italianispizza.com/

Delicious pizza, a casual atmosphere, friendly staff, and a great location are all reasons to try Italiani’s. Like Pizza 4P’s, Italiani’s makes a delicious thin-crust pizza. (A lot of other places in Saigon either serve pizza that’s way too thick and doughy or too thin, which just ends up tasting like a baked cracker with tomato sauce and cheese.) Italiani’s pizza goes well with a local craft beer.

The Deck Saigon

Address: 38 Nguyễn Ư Dĩ, St, Quận 2, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.thedecksaigon.com/

This restaurant was the most high-end dining experience I had in my nine months of living in HCMC, and it was also the most expensive. However, if you want a truly luxurious meal, this is the place to be.

The Deck Saigon seamlessly combines French- and Vietnamese-inspired dishes to create an honestly unique and refreshing dining experience. They’re able to do what most fusion restaurants can’t, and I enjoyed trying everything we ordered.

While The Deck Saigon does offer waterfront tables, they don’t feature the city skyline. The restaurant is located in District 2, so I recommend booking a reservation and giving yourself ample time to get there from District 1 or 3 if that’s where you’re coming from.

Bến Thành Street Food Market

Address: 26-28-30 Thủ Khoa Huân, Phường Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/BenThanhstreetfoodmarket/

I mentioned this food court in my comprehensive guide to Saigon because of its proximity to the massive gift and clothing market of the same name. Bến Thành Street Food Market has dozens of stalls that together offer a complete range of international cuisine (including Vietnamese dishes). It’s definitely meant for tourists, but I always enjoyed coming here every once in a while.

My Favorite Bars

Ho Chi Minh City has no shortage of bars and breweries for any budget and occasion. In fact, no other city I’ve been to or lived in has cheaper drinks! The following are some of my most highly recommended.

Layla - Eatery & Bar

Address: Second floor, 63 Đông Du, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/LaylaEateryandBarHCM

Layla is quite simply my favorite bar in the city. Located on the upper floor of a building across from the Sheraton Hotel in District 1, this bar is the perfect mix of classy and casual. Their cocktail recipes are unique and legitimately delicious. Case in point: I’ve never been a fan of gin and tonics until I had one at Layla that actually tasted good. I’ve liked every cocktail I tried at Layla.

Layla can get quite busy during peak hours, so I recommend going during the late afternoon. Happy hour is another good idea; prices here are definitely on the higher side.

Hen House Craft Beer Bar

Address: 285 Phạm Ngũ Lão, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/henhousevn

Although Hen House is one street over from the crazy bars and booming clubs on Bùi Viên, it’s way more casual and relaxed. They sell Rooster Beers with a nice variety of brews from light to dark. Their prices are also quite good for craft beer on tap. If you’re feeling hungry, they also have some Vietnamese-inspired fast food.

East West Brewing Co.

Address: 181 Lý Tự Trọng, Phường Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: http://www.eastwestbrewingcompany.com/

This brewery with a huge dining room is another good option for beer fans. I particularly liked their Saigon Rosé, which is sold at many restaurants around town. Get a flight to try four of beers on tap.

Lac Brewing Co.

Address: none
Website: https://www.lacbrewing.com/

I’m sad to say that this brewery closed right after I left Saigon! Nonetheless, I want to include it here even though they have no physical store right now because you can still pick up some of their delicious craft beers elsewhere around the city. I reached out to them on Facebook and was told that “you can still get our products at Urban Basement nearby or other outlets such as Malt, B3 Steakhouse, BiaCraft, [etc.]”

The View Rooftop Bar

Address: 195 Bùi Viện, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/TheViewRooftopBar/

This is my second favorite rooftop bar in Saigon (after AIR Saigon, discussed below). Although you can’t see the skyline as well from here, I like their interior design, which features a ton of lanterns and festive hanging lights. The drinks are fine but not outstanding. If you want to feel like you’re in the middle of everything on Bùi Viên without having to deal with all the commotion on street level, The View is a great place.

AIR Saigon (formerly 'Air 360 Sky Lounge')

Address: Rooftop 22nd Floor, Ben Thanh Tower 136 – 138 Le Thi Hong Gam, District 1 Ho Chi Minh City
Website: http://airsaigon.vn/assets/cache/all/index.html

This rooftop bar was mentioned in my complete guide to Saigon because it’s my favorite place to see the city skyline. In addition to that, they also offer some tasty (i.e. fruity) mixed drinks at reasonable prices. Go check it out!

Rogue Saigon

Address: 13 Pasteur (Floors 2+), Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Website: https://www.facebook.com/roguesaigon/

Mentioned above for their delicious burgers, Rogue is also worth mentioning as a nice rooftop bar. The drinks are good, and while the view may not be as grand as what you’ll see from The View or AIR Saigon, it’s in a quiet little corner of District 1 with its own unique charm.

Cafes

If you’re a coffee addict like I am, Ho Chi Minh City will be your happy place! Learn about two major coffee chains in the city, plus other options below.

The Coffee House

This cafe with locations all over the city was my favorite place to settle in for a while and be online. Many of my blog posts were drafted while I was sipping on cà phê sữa đá (Vietnamese iced coffee) in The Coffee House! They also make a really good hot latte, pictured below.

Highlands Coffee

This is the other major coffee chain in Saigon, and their prices are basically identical to those of The Coffee House. Cà phê sữa đá here tends to be a little more rich and sweet, and they also have delicious pastries.

Other Mentions

Coffee fanatics should try some other cafes beyond the two listed above. Sometimes, the best coffee can be found in the most unassuming places, including hole-in-the-wall operations. The sheer density of coffee shops in Saigon is unlike any other city I’ve been to (and I’m from Seattle). Coffee is a defining feature of life in Vietnam, so be sure to branch out and try some new places!

Feeling Hungry Yet?

Whether you’re visiting Saigon for a few days or planning to move there long-term, get ready for a culinary adventure! If you’ve just started researching the area and need more info on things to do, check out my comprehensive guide to Saigon! I share all the city’s best attractions in that separate post so that you can plan the perfect trip.

Have you tried any of the foods or restaurants mentioned above? Got any favorites that I didn’t mention? Let me know in the comments below! I hope this guide has helped jumpstart some ideas and inspired you to try some new dishes in Ho Chi Minh City!

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This post was published on Dec 7, 2019

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post The Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

The Traveler’s Guide To Côn Đảo, A Gorgeous Vietnamese Island With a Dark Past

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 05 Dec 2019 08:00:00 +0000

The Traveler’s Guide To Côn Đảo,
A Gorgeous Vietnamese Island With a Dark Past

Published December 5, 2019

As many of you know, I love exploring relatively unknown destinations. This typically means small towns, but occasionally I come across an island that isn’t yet on the radar of most tourists and travelers. That was the case with one located off the southern coast of Vietnam known as Côn Đảo (or Côn Sơn). If you’ve been to Vietnam’s more famous destinations and are in need of a breath of fresh air, both literally and figuratively, Côn Đảo might be exactly what you’re looking for.

You’d be forgiven if you’ve never heard of the tiny island chain before. About 150 miles south of Ho Chi Minh City, Côn Đảo is anything but a bustling tourist destination. Its best features include beaches you won’t have to share with anyone else, colorful fishing boats, green mountainside cliffs, and delectable seafood.

In addition to its stunning landscapes, Côn Đảo was also home to a brutal prison for over 100 years, from the 1860s up until the 1970s. It was used both by French colonists for political dissidents as well as soldiers and citizens during the Vietnam War.

Conditions in the prison throughout its operation were heart-wrenching, and unimaginable human suffering occurred within its stone walls. The remains of the prison are open to visitors, and seeing it in person is an emotional experience. However, I think all visitors to the island should go if they can. As uncomfortable as it may be, the Côn Đảo Prison is an important relic of Vietnamese history and a reminder of the immense pain and trauma that the country has gone through to become what it is today.

Fortunately, the prison doesn’t need to overshadow a stay on Côn Đảo. The island is now sleepy and relaxing. Locals are friendly and welcoming. Read on to learn exactly why you should consider this beautifully unspoiled spot for your next Southeast Asian getaway!

Breathtaking Views

The best part of Côn Đảo is its stunning natural beauty. In this section, I’ll give you a taste of what you can expect. If you’d like to skip ahead to sections featuring cuisine, the prison, where we stayed, how we got around, and how we got to the island from Saigon, click or tap the relevant link.

Beaches

Despite not really having a very tropical vibe, the beaches on Côn Đảo were pristine. We almost always had them to ourselves, too. Here are some of my favorites.

Lò Vôi Beach
Bãi Lò Vôi

Located within walking distance of the main town, this wide beach will almost make you feel like you’re on a desert island. With dense trees and rocky mountains surrounding it, this was probably the most calm and relaxing beach we went to.

Đầm Trầu Beach
Bãi Đầm Trầu

Although this beach was the least picturesque, it did have two things going for it: a couple of restaurants nearby, and the ability to watch planes fly in from its shores thanks to its proximity to the airport. We had lunch at one of the restaurants, and you can read more about it below.

Bãi tắm An Hải

Somewhat similar to Lò Vôi Beach, this one is also located within walking distance of the main town.

Nhát Beach
Bãi Nhát

The beach offering the best view is Bãi Nhát. The dramatic mountain peak that can be seen from it is located on the nearby islet known as hòn Bà (I think).

A fishing port

This was perhaps my favorite spot on the island, located roughly here. It wasn’t designed for tourists, but the colorful boats and mountainous backdrop made it the perfect place to practice our photography skills.

The National Park
Vườn quốc gia Côn Đảo

If you’re interested in seeing a beach or two on the northern side of the island (which is mostly uninhabited), you can enter through Côn Đảo National Park here, then take a hike down to the water. Entrance costs 60,000 VND per person, but this was honestly an underwhelming beach compared to the others mentioned above.

An Hải Lake
Hồ An Hải

Last but not least, this massive lotus pond on the edge of town with a road running through its center is a sight to see. Here, you can watch locals fishing along the side of the road.

Amazing Seafood

As you might expect, Côn Sơn is home to some really excellent, fresh seafood. Check out some of your options in the section below.

A restaurant on the beach

If you want a local seafood experience, you could eat at a restaurant on the beach. We saw two side by side at the entrance of Đầm Trầu Beach (Bãi Đầm Trầu), and decided to try the one on the right.

We were thoroughly impressed with the crab we tried there, which was served with a delicious slightly sweet glaze. The shellfish appetizer we tried was also good, and the shrimp fried noodles we had rounded out the meal. If you want an authentic seafood meal with an ocean view, this is a great place to head to.

A restaurant in town

A slightly more standard dining experience can be found in town, where a number of large and bustling seafood restaurants are clustered opposite the park on Nguyễn Đức Thuận Street. I think we went to the one called Nhà hàng Cánh Buồm.

We tried snail soup, a local variety of jumbo prawn, calamari, and fried rice. This is the kind of place where you’ll want to try multiple dishes and share. Other restaurants on this street looked similar, but we chose this one because it seemed to be the most busy at the time.

A resort restaurant

Your final option for food is to eat at one of the island’s resorts, even if you aren’t staying there. We tried the restaurant at the Poulo Condor Boutique Resort, and while it was good, I’d say the main thing I remember about the meal was how expensive it was. In terms of authenticity, I’d say the meal was lacking.

We were originally considering trying the restaurant at the even more fancy Six Senses Con Dao resort, but decided against it in the end. After seeing Vietnamese standards on their menu such as phở and bánh mì for astronomical prices, we opted to splurge on a more unique luxury dining experience in Saigon. I’m glad we did.

The Côn Đảo Prison

In order to visit the prison on Côn Sơn, you’ll need to buy tickets at this location. I highly recommend buying a ticket that includes both the museum and the prison. Read the following section to learn more.

The Museum
Bảo Tàng Côn Đảo

Before actually visiting the prison itself, you’ll want to check out the museum next door. You’ll learn about the history of the island, which is largely entwined with its inception in the 1860s as a place of penal exile during the French colonial period.

It continues on with exhibits focusing on some of the people who were kept here and how it became a prison of war during the 1960s up until 1975 when it was finally closed. Depictions of incarceration in the Côn Đảo Prison can be tough to witness because of how inhumane the conditions were. Some artifacts are especially personal, such as annotated books and diaries that belonged to prisoners.

To read another review of the museum with some additional info, click here.

The Prison
Nhà tù Côn Đảo

After you’ve seen the museum, you’re ready to go next door to see the prison itself. Like the museum, the prison might be difficult for some people to visit. They’ve put in some life-sized statues to really drive home the point that thousands of human beings were kept here in awful conditions.

I think what was so harrowing to me was how recently people were imprisoned here. Certain parts of the prison look like they haven’t been changed or cleaned up since it was closed. Human suffering was recent here, and you can almost feel it in the air.

As I mentioned earlier, I think visitors to the island should dedicate one day to see the prison if they can. It would be unfortunate to come away from Côn Đảo with no understanding of what happened here. I took time to reflect on it, then made a conscious effort to appreciate that the island is finally a place of peace.

Where We Stayed

We decided to book a room at the Tân Sơn Nhất Côn Đảo Resort, located right on the edge of the main town directly on the beach. This “hotel” was comprised of a few dozen beachside bungalows, but they had modern amenities: air conditioning; a modern, clean, and spacious bathroom; WiFi; and a TV.

They also had a nice, complimentary breakfast buffet with both western and Vietnamese dishes. We took advantage of it each morning before venturing out on our motorbikes.

While the rooms were nice and comfortable enough, the best part of Tân Sơn Nhất was its location right on the beach. We enjoyed the view right from our bungalow’s porch. The resort is also close enough to walk into the town center for dinner or drinks.

We decided to try their on-site restaurant for dinner one night. The seafood hot pot and other dishes we got were good, but most of the other restaurants mentioned above were a bit better.

Overall, the Tân Sơn Nhất Côn Đảo Resort was a comfortable and memorable place to stay. At 75 USD per night, it was expensive for Vietnam. Nonetheless, being directly on the beach was a luxury worth splurging on, so I recommend it if you’re looking for a place to stay.

Traveling Around the Island

Without a doubt, the most convenient and budget-friendly way to get around the island is to rent a motorbike. We paid 120,000 VND (approx. 5.20 USD) per bike per day, and our hotel receptionist directed us to a rental guy just down the road. We were not asked to put down a security deposit, but we had to pay for our own gas, which cost about 50,000 VND (approx. 2.15 USD) for a full tank.

While I’m sure taxis and other tour vehicles are readily available for hire, it was nice to be able to explore the island at our own pace with the motorbikes. Many of my favorite spots were found by just pulling off to the side of the road, parking, and exploring on foot. We probably wouldn’t have seen as much of Côn Sơn if we used taxis to get around.

Many hotels appeared to offer free shuttle pickup and dropoff to the island’s airport, and this was the case for the Tân Sơn Nhất Côn Đảo Resort where we stayed. This was very convenient and helpful, especially with luggage.

Getting to Côn Đảo

At the time of writing (December 2019), the only air carrier that flies to Côn Đảo is Vietnam Airlines. Since local budget airlines don’t operate there, airfare was much more expensive than most domestic flights: round-trip cost 155 USD (3.6 million VND) per person. In contrast, it’s normal to find round-trip flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Phú Quốc for as low as 40 USD.

Another option to get to Côn Đảo is a ferry from Vũng Tàu. According to one blog, this is a much more economical option than flying. However, it mentions that boat service is weather-dependent.

We decided to fly to avoid the uncertainty, and it may have been a good thing that we did. When we arrived, the sea looked pretty rough. We also inquired at our hotel about boat tours, but were told that the wind and waves were so strong that the island’s port was closed. We assume that this probably meant the ferry wasn’t in service while we were there.

An Island Unlike Any Other

Côn Đảo was undoubtedly one of the most unique places I had the pleasure of visiting in Vietnam. Its beauty is simply unparalleled. Even if you’ve been to Phú Quốc or other islands in Vietnam or Cambodia, Côn Đảo is a different experience altogether. It’s less tropical, and (at least in 2019) isn’t dominated by resorts and vacationers.

Although the history of the island is bleak, part of the joy of visiting today is knowing that the century-plus of terrible suffering is finally over. Côn Đảo is once again a peaceful place. While seeing the museum and prison can have an emotional toll, you’ll come away from the island with a more complete perspective of Vietnamese history and be a more informed traveler for it.

Have you been to Côn Đảo before? Was your experience similar? Leave a comment and let me know! Thanks for checking out Caffeinated Excursions, and happy travels to anyone headed to this beautiful place!

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This post was published on Dec 5, 2019

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The post The Traveler’s Guide To Côn Đảo, A Gorgeous Vietnamese Island With a Dark Past appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Things To Do In Dalat, Vietnam: Train Rides, Temples, Waterfalls, And More!

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 30 Nov 2019 03:00:00 +0000

Things To Do In Dalat, Vietnam: Train Rides, Temples, Waterfalls, And More!

Published November 30, 2019

When I first visited Dalat earlier this year, I was sadly unable to explore outdoors because of heavy, non-stop rain. That’s why I was so excited to revisit the city with my friend Ismael a few months later! When we got off the plane and were greeted by blue skies, I was so excited to finally see what Dalat had to offer.

The one good thing about my first rain-soaked trip was that I got to explore the city’s amazing cafe scene. Since Dalat is the heart of Vietnam’s coffee-growing region, the cafes there are some of the best that I’ve come across in all my travels. I wrote a separate post about it, which you can check out here. I also updated the list with five new cafes and restaurants I tried with Ismael, so be sure to check it out!

I came away from Dalat this time loving the city. The green hills around town and the unexpectedly cool temperature will make you feel like you’re in Canada or Northern Europe. There are a couple of interesting and unique attractions in Dalat which are discussed in this post. They center around a historic train ride and a waterfall. To learn more, keep reading!

Disclaimer Regarding Affiliate Links This blog post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase a product, book an accommodation, or schedule a tour mentioned on this post, I may earn a small commission (at no additional cost to you). If you choose to do so, thanks for your support!

Unique Attractions in Dalat

A Tourist Train Ride

Dalat’s most noteworthy offering is a short historic train route that runs from Dalat Railway Station (Ga Đà Lạt) in the city center to Trại Mát Station (Ga Trại Mát) in the suburbs to the east. While Trại Mát has a beautiful temple that you should definitely check out, the scenic train ride is a fun experience all on its own. Below are more details on Dalat Station, the train, and the temple.

Dalat Station

You’ll first want to head to Dalat Railway Station, located here. The station itself is an attraction to check out with its distinctive yellow façade.

There are also old train cars on display, a couple of gardens, and a chocolate shop.

The Train Ride

After exploring the station, board the train at your designated departure time. Check out the vintage interior of the train and find a seat. As you chug along, you’ll be treated to scenic views of coffee farms and greenhouses.

The Linh Phước Pagoda
Chùa Ve Chai (Linh Phước)

The terminal station for this route is located here. Walk just a bit to the east, then turn south to find the entrance to the pagoda. Follow the crowd or ask an employee for directions if you’re not sure where to go.

We paid for round-trip train tickets, but this would’ve made for a very rushed temple visit. We wanted to take our time exploring the Linh Phước Pagoda, so we decided to forego the train ride back and took a taxi back to the Dalat town center instead.

The temple is a pretty large complex with a number of different rooms and shrines. If you only spend half an hour here, you might miss some of the most impressive parts. Those who are able should climb the steep staircases up to the top of the tallest pagoda, which offers really stunning panoramic views. It’s about seven stories tall!

Datanla Waterfall

Like the temple mentioned above, this waterfall is also a short distance outside of the city center. Unfortunately, there is no train service out here. Instead, visitors should call a Grab car (the local version of Uber) and ask to be dropped off at this point.

The Datanla Waterfall appears to only be accessible via a “roller coaster,” although it’s not the kind of thing you might imagine in an amusement park. It’s relatively slow and smooth, and even has a mechanism for slowing down. You ride in an individual car which is not connected to any other passengers.

I found this to be a fun part of the excursion, but I can imagine that some travelers might not be interested in (or able to) do this. You could inquire at the ticket booth about other ways to reach the waterfall, but it seemed to me like this might be it.

As mentioned above, the coaster ride itself was smooth and comfortable. The only thing I didn’t love about it was that the inclines felt pretty steep, and the car design has passengers reclined quite a bit. This gave me the feeling of almost laying down while being brought up the hill with my legs higher than my head, which didn’t feel natural. If the thought of that freaks you out, you might want to skip the Datanla Waterfall.

After all this talk of the coaster, you might be wondering about the actual waterfall itself. This is what it looks like (pictured below). At the bottom of the hill where it’s located, there’s a small visitor area. When you’re ready to go back, you’ll have to get back on the roller coaster to return to the main entrance.

An Amazing Array of Cafes

Dalat has a vibrant food and drink scene, but in this town, coffee is king! That’s because coffee is one of the region’s most important industries, so much of what you’ll find here is local specialty brews. This post would be way too long if I included all my recommendations, which is why I’ve written a separate post all about Dalat’s best cafes. Be sure to check it out!

Other Points of Interest

As you can see, Dalat is a very green city that has a small-town vibe. That’s why it’s such a great place for outdoor activities as long as the weather is good! I highly recommend setting aside some time to explore on foot, and an excellent place to do this is along the shores of Xuan Huong Lake (Hồ Xuân Hương).

Along the southern shore, you’ll find Lam Vien Square (Quảng trường Lâm Viên) which has some interesting modern architecture, cafes, a shopping center, and street vendors.

This is hardly the only place worth checking out on foot, but it’s a good starting point. Dalat’s District 1 (Phường 1) and District 2 (Phường 2) are both commercial areas with lots of interesting restaurants and bars to explore.

Also, here’s one tip: pack layers! Since the town is in the mountains and not on the coast, it can be surprisingly chilly, especially at night!

Where to Stay

On my first visit to Dalat, I stayed at the Tigon Dalat Hostel (affiliate link). On this trip, we booked a room at the Tía Dú Homestay (affiliate link). Both were a little out of the way, but the panoramic views from the homestay were a great reason to stay in that particular neighborhood, which is pretty residential. If you’d rather be closer to restaurants, bars, and cafes, I’d recommend looking for a place to stay in District 1 (Phường 1).

Go check out Dalat!

This blog post is by no means exhaustive. If you stay for longer than a few days, you’ll have ample time to see everything mentioned here and more! Have you been to the area before? Are you interested in checking it out on your next trip to Vietnam? Leave a comment and let me know! Thanks for reading, and if you’re either in Dalat now or headed there soon, enjoy!

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This post was published on Nov 30, 2019

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See The Mekong Delta In a Day: Bến Tre Private Tour Review

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Fri, 22 Nov 2019 08:00:54 +0000

See The Mekong Delta In a Day: Bến Tre Private Tour Review

Published November 22, 2019

I’ve lived in Saigon for about nine months now, but I had never taken a trip to the Mekong River Delta. Luckily, having my parents visit me in Vietnam was the perfect excuse to go check it out! We decided to book a private day tour with a company called Mekong Delta Tourism (AG Travel), which meant we got our very own guide and driver for the entire day.

The Mekong River is only about 40 miles away from Ho Chi Minh City, and you don’t need to go as far as Cần Thơ to see why the delta is such a popular tourist destination. Instead, we traveled to the city and province of Bến Tre. In this post, I’ll share what we did and end with a quick review of the company we went with.

What We Did on the Day Trip

1. Hotel Pick-up

The tour began with an 8:00 a.m. hotel pick up. The tour guide was right on time and met us in the lobby, then brought us out to a large van which we had all to ourselves. We took the main road out of the city (Võ Văn Kiệt) before taking the highway (Quốc lộ 1A, or QL1A) the rest of the way to Bến Tre.

2. Quick Rest Stop

At some point before reaching the city of Bến Tre, we stopped for a few minutes at a rest stop. It looked like they offered coffee and food if we wanted to get breakfast, but we had already eaten earlier at the hotel.

3. Crossing the Mekong River

We didn’t get out of the van to stop here, but we did get panoramic views of the Mekong River as we crossed it on the Rạch Miễu Bridge (Cầu Rạch Miễu). It was interesting to see just how wide the river really is, and our guide pointed out the houseboats and fishing communities floating on the water as we crossed.

4. Brick Factory

Our first real stop on our journey was a brick production facility on the banks of the river. Despite being quiet that day, our guide informed us about the clay in the region being ideal for bricks, which are made by hand.

Seeing the firing kilns on site was probably the most interesting part of this stop. Since they weren’t being used when we visited, we even got to step inside and check them out up close!

5. Motorboat Ride

Since the brick factory happened to be right on the banks of the river, we walked over to one of the boats and got in. Fresh coconuts were served on board, and we enjoyed the view as we passed by palm trees, vegetation, other boats, and the occasional waterfront house.

6. Coconut Candy Production

Our next stop was short and sweet: a quick look at a local producer of sweets based on coconut and chocolate. We had some delicious samples and watched as the women working cut and packaged the treats they were making.

7. Mat Weaving and Fresh Fruit

We then made our way to another house, where two women were making a traditional mat. They also ran a small souvenir shop, and we were treated to a plate of fresh local fruit while sitting down for a few minutes to rest.

8. A Lunch to Remember

After enjoying our fruit appetizer, we were more than ready for lunch. We got into the back of a small truck, which took us through palm groves down dirt roads. After ducking our heads to avoid the low-hanging fronds, we finally arrived at the remote but beautiful Ba Danh Homestay, where we had lunch.

Although every dish we were served was great, the highlight had to be the massive fish shown above: the giant gourami. This fish was delicious and crispy, and our waitress showed us how to make delicious spring rolls with it. Some other side dishes we enjoyed are shown below.

9. Rowboat Back to Bến Tre Town

It was time for the second portion of our journey by boat, except now, we had no motor to propel us forward. We moved at a much more leisurely pace as two rowers paddled us through the river under the hot sun. It was the perfect way to relax after a big meal.

10. Ride Back to Saigon

We concluded our short boat ride right in the center of Bến Tre town, where our van was waiting for us. We drove back into Ho Chi Minh City the way we came and were back in time for dinner.

Was the Trip Worth It?

Although this tour was probably about as expensive as they get, it was really enjoyable and well-planned. A day trip was the perfect way to see a glimpse of the Mekong Delta without having to commit too much time. Needless to say, I’m sure a multi-day journey through the swamps and towns here would have its own rewards.

If you’re willing to shop around (both on the streets of Saigon and online), you can basically find a tour for any budget that should include the activities you care about most. Most people probably visit the Mekong on a group tour. I’d bet that the itinerary is similar, but without as much flexibility.

Have you been to the Mekong Delta before? If you have, did you see some similar sites? Or did you happen to book with the same company we did? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading, and if you’re about to check out this stunning region in Vietnam, enjoy!

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This post was published on Nov 22, 2019

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The post See The Mekong Delta In a Day: Bến Tre Private Tour Review appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Huế, Vietnam: 24 and 48 Hour Itineraries For a City Rich In History

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Fri, 13 Sep 2019 17:00:34 +0000

Huế, Vietnam: 24 and 48 Hour Itineraries For a City Rich In History

Published September 14, 2019

Now that I’ve lived here for six months, I can personally confirm that Vietnam has something for everyone. Ho Chi Minh City has an energy unrivaled by most cities multiple times its size. The capital of Hanoi is a fascinating place that can’t be reduced to a one-liner. Trying to list all of the beaches worth visiting would be futile; the same goes for towns surrounded by beautiful green mountains. But for all you history buffs out there, look no further than the city of Huế.

Huế was the capital city of the Đàng Trong Kingdom in the 1700s, which held territory in modern-day Central and Southern Vietnam. The city’s main highlight is a massive Imperial City that was built in the early 1800s when current-day Vietnam was unified under one emperor (Gia Long). Although somewhat reminiscent of the world-famous Forbidden City in Beijing, the Imperial City in Huế is refreshingly unique with its own vibe. In all honesty, I think I liked this one more. Read on to learn why!

Since the Imperial City only takes a few hours to explore, Huế is the perfect destination if you’ve only got one or two days to spare. I spent two nights there; by the second afternoon I felt like I had seen everything I wanted to (which is pretty rare). In this post, I’ll share what you can see if you’re spending just one day in the city, followed by some additional ideas if you’ve booked two days there. Lastly, I’ll let you know the best area to stay in.

The 24-Hour Itinerary

If you have just one day in Huế, this section is for you!

1. Morning: The Imperial City

There’s a reason this historical site is the main attraction in Huế. Just look at a map of the area and you’ll see that the square-shaped ancient city and surrounding canals are bigger than the modern city center on the southeastern banks of the Perfume River. Even if you’re not a huge fan of historical sites while traveling, I think the Imperial City has the potential to impress.

Why I Liked It More Than The Forbidden City in Beijing

It goes without saying that you shouldn’t miss the Forbidden City if you happen to visit Beijing. With that said, I remember it being overcrowded and sort of dirty (I went in 2010, so maybe it’s cleaner now). The entire place is basically concrete, and there’s few places to find shade, as shown in the pictures below. The heat in summer was brutal.

In contrast, the grounds inside Huế’s Imperial City are incredibly green. Gardens, fields, trees, and ponds separate the various courtyards and sections. It was admittedly pretty muggy here too (heat index of 115 °F or 46 °C), but it would’ve been truly miserable if the entire place was all paved over without greenery to absorb some of the heat.

Another amazing thing about the Imperial City was that there were almost no crowds. If you scroll through the photos in this post, you’ll see what I mean. I did go on a Monday morning in September, so I think the low season just started with school back in session. Nonetheless, I would bet that even on a weekend in summer, the crowds would be manageable at least. Being able to explore without being surrounded by a million selfie sticks or cranky kids was a pleasant surprise.

There’s also an undeniable sense of authenticity here. The Imperial City isn’t impeccably maintained, but that is decidedly a good thing in my book. I’m not implying that things inside are falling apart, but signs of aging seem to be embraced (or at least accepted) without much fuss.

Paint is chipping here and there. Most of the fields have grass that’s too tall to walk through. These little “imperfections” give the place a lot of character, which is something that can’t necessarily be said of the Forbidden City. The little deviations also draw one’s attention to the minute details and stunning ornamentation that fill the whole site.

How to Make It Happen

A visit to the Imperial City is pretty self-explanatory. Tickets are sold at the main gate (here) and only cost 150,000 VND (approx. 6.50 USD). I went at a leisurely pace and tried to see each section of the walled city, which took between two and three hours. I recommend going in the morning after breakfast so you have as much time as you’d like to explore the inside before having a late-ish lunch.

2. Lunch: Try Bún Bò Huế, a Delicious Noodle Soup

While there are a few cafes and gift shops inside where you can purchase snacks or drinks, I recommend going to a local market for lunch. Try bún bò Huế (Huế-style beef noodles), the city’s signature dish. It’s typically eaten for breakfast, but I tried it for lunch from “Anthony Bourdain’s Huế Lady” located in the Đông Ba Market (Chợ Đông Ba). Check out this video to see her food stall featured by Bourdain, or read this blog post for more information.

This is street food at its finest, and it was really good. The market is definitely a maze, but she’s located towards the back so I recommend entering from the rear street called Chương Dương and finding the small section of food vendors. Once you find the following sign, you’ve arrived.

The market is a fun place to wander through as well, even if just for a few minutes.

3. Afternoon: Explore on Foot

I spent the rest of my afternoon wandering the streets of Thuận Hòa and Thuận Thành, the two areas surrounding the Imperial City. While there wasn’t anything there that particularly stood out, there are a ton of cafes all over the place, so be sure to try a Vietnamese coffee if you need a little afternoon pick-me-up.

As I was walking along Nhật Lệ, one of the major streets here, I came across a street food stall that caught my eye. I had absolutely no idea what it was, but I sat down at one of the little plastic tables and ordered whatever she was making.

She took four of five of the little doughy-looking things from the red tub and squished them in the iron flattener over the fire. This was the result: a stack of small “open-face tacos” sprinkled with onions and a tiny bit of meat.

They were light yet delicious, especially with the mint leaves and dipping sauce. They only cost 10,000 VND (40 cents) for the whole plate of them, and after eating them by hand, I asked what they were. She said they were “bánh ép,” which according to this site are very thin pancakes made from tapioca. If you happen to see her or anyone else in Huế selling this delicious snack, be sure to try it!

4. Dinner: Splurge a Little

For dinner, one option is Les Jardins de la Carambole. It’s a short walk from the main gate of the Imperial City, and the interior is beautiful.

I ended up trying another bowl of bún bò along with an appetizer of French cheese, which was quite pricey at 300,000 VND (13 USD). I figured that it would be a small bite or two of some very fine cheeses, but it turned out to be bigger portions of perhaps some cheaper varieties. It was satisfying nonetheless in a country where cheese is rare, but this is probably a better appetizer to share.

The bún bò here was also good, but I personally liked the bowl from the market more. Plus, the Anthony Bourdain lady charges a small fraction of the price at Les Jardins.

5. After Dark: Go Back to the Imperial Palace

Before heading off to bed, be sure to go check out the huge flagpole of the Imperial City from Lê Duẩn street. They light up the massive walls of the city, the front gate of the Imperial Palace, and the Kỳ Đài where the flag is flown.

Ideas for a Second Day in Huế

If you’ve done everything mentioned above, then you’ve basically seen what I consider “can’t miss” in Huế. A second day in the city is nice but not necessary. Here are some ideas for how to spend the time.

1. Breakfast: More Bún Bò!

Since bún bò is a breakfast dish, it might actually be hard to find shops selling it past noon, especially the most highly-recommended family-owned places. This list has a number of ideas, but most of them are across the river. I walked across and tried one called Bún Bò O Cương Chú Điệp (located here), which also turned out to be quite good. If find any other bún bò places you love, let me know in the comments below!

2. Coffee at Sky Bar Vinpearl

As a relatively small city, Huế basically only has one distinctive skyscraper: the Vinpearl Hotel Huế. I figured that there would be a cafe or bar with a view on the top floor, and I ended up being right. The only thing that I was wrong about was what I’d be able to see from up there. I was expecting to see an impressive aerial view of the Imperial City, but it’s too far away from the hotel and the area has too many trees to see any real semblance of the design or layout.

However, the view of the surrounding city blocks and nearby foothills is quite nice. The coffee here isn’t even vastly overpriced, and the cafe offers basically panoramic views. Like the Imperial City, the Sky Bar ended up being wonderfully uncrowded on a weekday morning.

3. Nhà thờ Dòng Chúa Cứu Thế (A Really Cool Church)

I actually decided to walk over to this church because I saw it from the Sky Bar and was intrigued.

If you have the time to check it out, it’s a very impressive structure that combines the basic design of a cathedral with East Asian motifs. Although the interior wasn’t open when I went, I’m still glad I wandered over to see the outside up close.

4. Lunch or Dinner: One More Local Dish

Huế has no shortage of local dishes, so you might as well take the opportunity to try one more for a final meal in the city. A great place to check out south of the Perfume River is Hanh Restaurant, which has a local vibe and a menu that explains in English what some of their most popular dishes are. I decided to try bánh bèo, a snack consisting of sticky rice cakes served in tiny bowls sprinkled with dried shrimp and pork rinds.

While I think I personally liked bún bò a tiny bit more, bánh bèo was quite an interesting culinary experience worth considering if you’ve already had your fill of noodles and soup.

Where to Stay

Since the Imperial City is the focal point of Huế and you should see it both during the day and at night, I recommend staying as close as possible to the main gate. I stayed at the Tam Family Homestay which I booked via Airbnb, and I was very impressed with the large private room and friendly hosts. It’s only a five or ten minute walk from the front of the Imperial City and cost me about $15 per night.

In Closing...

Huế may not be the first city you think of if you’re planning a trip to Vietnam, but it’s a great place to check out for a day or two, especially if you’re visiting the nearby-ish beach towns of Da Nang or Hội An. It’s also a great weekend trip for expats based in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.

Have you ever been to Huế before? Do you have any additional places in the city to recommend? Leave a comment and let me know! Thanks for reading, guys!

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This post was published on Sept 14, 2019

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The post Huế, Vietnam: 24 and 48 Hour Itineraries For a City Rich In History appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

The Complete Guide To Cafes In Dalat, Vietnam

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 03 Sep 2019 17:00:24 +0000

The Complete Guide To Cafes In Dalat

Published September 4, 2019

Before moving to Vietnam, I had never heard of the city of Dalat. However, once I learned that it was the coffee growing capital of the country, I knew I had to go check it out! In addition, Dalat is a backpacker’s paradise nestled in the mountains of Central Vietnam, so I was excited to breathe some cool, fresh air and spend most of my trip outdoors.

Unfortunately, it rained the entire time I was there. And I mean literally the entire time. It didn’t let up for one waking hour! As far as I could tell, it even rained through the night. So instead of exploring outdoors on foot like I normally do, I ended up checking out the city’s impressive cafe scene.

Since coffee is grown on farms surrounding the city, many cafes have their own local sources, resulting in unique blends you can’t get anywhere else. Many of these establishments are also beautifully decorated, making them the ideal spot to spend a few hours especially on a rainy day. Here’s a list of the ones I visited; click any link below to skip to that specific cafe!

Tiệm Cà-phê CÔ BÔNG
Cafe Thiên Thanh
An Cafe
V Cafe
Bicycle Up Cafe
Artist Alley
La Viet Coffee
DOHA Café Đà Lạt
Miền Du Lam
Two Additional Restaurants & A Bar

Update December 2019 I got a chance to revisit Dalat and luckily had amazing weather the second time! To check out my comprehensive guide to the city, click or tap the image link below!

1. Tiệm Cà-phê CÔ BÔNG

Address: 238 Yersin, Phường 9, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://www.facebook.com/caphecobong/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tiemcaphecobong/

This cafe on two stories is most notable for its vintage-inspired decor. Order on the first floor and check out all the different rooms before deciding where to sit to enjoy your beverage.

The second floor also has a nice covered balcony where you can sit outdoors, rain or shine.

2. Cafe Thiên Thanh

Address: 02 Pasteur, Phường 4, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://www.facebook.com/CafeThienThanh

This restaurant and cafe is housed in what looks like a converted villa. Surrounding the main building is a lush, green patio and garden.

I stopped in for lunch and enjoyed the steak and baguette I ordered.

The interior of the main dining area has a unique color scheme featuring pastels and intricate paintings. If the weather is good, they also have a large outdoor seating area as well.

3. An Cafe

Address: 63Bis Ba Tháng Hai, Phường 1, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://www.ancafe.vn/an-cafe-english
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ancafedalat/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/an_cafe_dalat/

This cafe built on a steep hill had plenty of seating on multiple levels. I sat on the lower level, which had a wide view of the street below. The rustic decor and plants on each tabletop gave An Cafe a very interesting vibe. It somehow felt both modern and “well-worn.” As you can see, it had a very bright and cheery dining area as well, which was the perfect place to stay dry from the rain.

I tried a chocolate mint smoothie and eggplant parmesan here, both of which were delicious. If I had more time, I probably would’ve come back to try more items on their fairly extensive menu.

4. V Cafe

Address: 17 Đường Bùi Thị Xuân, Phường 2, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vcafe.dalat

I tried V Cafe for breakfast, although it definitely felt more like a bar than a breakfast or brunch joint. When I went, there was only one other person there. In all honesty, the interior seemed pretty dated, but that arguably gave the place a bit of charm.

Nonetheless, I still enjoyed the chicken phở, fruit plate, and coffee I got here.

5. Bicycle Up Cafe

Address: 82 Đường Trương Công Định, Phường 1, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://bicycle-up-cafe.business.site/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Bicycleup
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bicycleupcafe/

This was probably my favorite cafe in Dalat. Presumably named for the bicycle perched on top of the antique piano pictured below, Bicycle Up had an impressive menu of fancy choices for lovers of all things caffeinated.

Every inch of the cafe was quirky, which was great! Many of the decorations look like antiques, but overall the place has a refreshing yet very cozy atmosphere. Props to whoever designed this space and acquired everything on display.

Bicycle Up was also the smallest of all the cafes I visited. However, it never got crowded during the two-plus hours I spent there. Perhaps that was because of the rain, but it was nice to not have to share this small space with a crowd of people.

6. Artist Alley

Address: 124 Phan Đình Phùng, Phường 2, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://artist-alley-restaurant.business.site/

Like Bicycle Up, this restaurant was also quirky in an endearing way. Perhaps because the main theme seemed to just be “there are paintings on the walls,” or maybe because I was literally the only person here (although I did go for a late lunch around 3:00 p.m.), Artist Alley just felt a tiny bit odd. Nonetheless, the food and service were good, so don’t hesitate to pop in for lunch or dinner.

I ordered a curry with pumpkin soup as an appetizer, and both were perfect for the rainy weather.

7. La Viet Coffee

Address: 200 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Phường 8, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://laviet.coffee/en/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/coffeelaviet/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lavietcoffee/

If Bicycle Up was my favorite place on the list, then La Viet was a close second. However, the two are so different that it’s hard to compare them. While Bicycle Up was small and quirky, La Viet is housed in a massive industrial warehouse. It’s by far the biggest cafe I visited in Dalat, and has an almost American vibe. They were even playing country music when I was there!

For dinner, I tried a lavender Vietnamese coffee and an order of fish and chips. Both were good; the menu here has some other western meal choices as well.

La Viet is a little out of the way. However, if you’re willing to walk or hire a Grab, it’s definitely worth checking out. You’re also basically guaranteed to get a seat because there are so many tables inside.

8. K'fe House
(Formerly DOHA Café Đà Lạt)

Address: Số 2, Trần Quốc Toản, Phường 10, Thành Phố Đà Lat, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://kfehouse.vn/gioi-thieu/?lang=en
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kfehouse.millijsc/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kfe.house/

Located on the southern shore of Xuân Hương Lake (Hồ Xuân Hương), K’fe House is hard to miss. It’s a large glass building shaped like a flower bud. If you grew up in the 90s, it might remind you of the Pokemon Bulbasaur! It’s located next to a few other pieces of interesting modern architecture as part of a large public square with scenic lake views.

While the coffee here wasn’t anything out of the ordinary, it’s worth ordering something inside so you can check out the glass panes up close. There are multiple levels of seating, so it’s also a great place to take a rest if you’ve been walking around the city for a while.

9. Miền Du Lam

Address: 37 Đường Đống Đa, Phường 3, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mienDuLam.Official/

This cafe (which seems to be run by a family who live on the same property) is located on a residential street away from the hustle and bustle of the town center. Not only is their outdoor seating area beautiful, but they serve their coffee on a cute little platter, complete with a cup of tea and some crackers and candy. The atmosphere simply couldn’t be better!

Miền Du Lam is proof that even the most random coffee shops in Dalat are full of character regardless of location. In fact, I only found Miền Du Lam because it was a short walk away from the Airbnb I stayed in. If there are any cafes near your hotel, hostel, or Airbnb, give them a try! One could end up being your favorite, even if it’s not mentioned on this list.

Two Restaurants and a Bar

Update December 2019 Along with cafes number 8 and 9 in the list above, the following three places were added to this post after I made it to Dalat a second time in November of 2019. They’re not technically cafes, but they are great options to get a meal or a drink if you've had your daily fill of coffee!

10. Biang Dalat Garden Restaurant

Address: 94 Đường Lý Tự Trọng, Phường 2, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/biangdalat/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/biang_bistro/

Biang Dalat (formerly Biang Bistro) was the perfect blend of a beautiful outdoor-centric dining area and a modern take on Vietnamese cuisine. If ever a restaurant had the vibe of a spa, this would be it. If you’d like to try something a little different in terms of flavor that isn’t a complete departure from local cuisine, Biang Dalat is exactly what you’re looking for.

11. Le Chalet Dalat

Address: 6 Đường Huỳnh Thúc Kháng, Phường 4, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lechaletDalat4

Le Chalet Dalat was another interesting restaurant we tried. Located a short distance from Cafe Thiên Thanh, Le Chalet combines an interesting vintage vibe with satisfying meals. I have to admit that I liked Biang Bistro a tiny bit more, but Le Chalet was another good option for a nice dinner.

12. Heyla Cocktail Bar

Address: 10 Tản Đà, Phường 6, Thành phố Đà Lạt, Lâm Đồng, Vietnam
Website: https://heyla-cocktail-bar.business.site/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HeylaCocktailBar/

Dalat may not have the reputation for nightlife that Ho Chi Minh City does, but there’s one bar I recommend if you’re looking for a couple of drinks after dinner. Heyla Cocktail Bar is a stylish place that draws both locals and foreigners. While the vibe is good, their selling point is their massive menu of creative cocktails. We tried a number of unique drinks there, including some legitimately spicy (yet still delicious) ones, pictured below with the chili pepper devil horns on the glass!

My favorite beverage there was definitely the blue flaming cocktail shown in the video below. I don’t remember what it was called, but I’m if you show the bartender this video, he or she might recognize it and be able to set one up for you!

Dalat: I Had to Go Back For More!

Although I was stuck indoors the entire time I was there, Dalat clearly had much more to offer than its impressive selection of coffee shops. I’m planning on heading back soon with fingers crossed for better weather. Keep an eye out for when I do; I’ll write another post and update this one with any new cafes I discover. Thanks for reading, and remember to check out my comprehensive guide to Dalat if you haven’t already!

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This post was published on Sept 4, 2019

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The post The Complete Guide To Cafes In Dalat, Vietnam appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Initial Impressions of Hanoi, Vietnam’s Intriguing Capital

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 04 May 2019 17:00:21 +0000

Initial Impressions of Hanoi, Vietnam’s Intriguing Capital

Published May 5, 2019

Vietnam is a country defined by two major cities: the national capital of Hanoi and the economic center of Ho Chi Minh City (abbreviated HCMC and also known by its former name, ‘Saigon’). Since Hanoi is in the northern part of the country and HCMC is in the south, the two cities have very distinct cultures and atmospheres. Visitors to Vietnam should try to visit both if they can. But if you only have time to visit one, you’ll want to investigate what both cities have to offer before making a decision.

I recently moved to Ho Chi Minh City and still need to write a blog post about what I’ve discovered there. However, I checked out Hanoi two times in the past month and saw it from a tourist’s perspective. In this post, I’ll reveal the sites and attractions in Hanoi that intrigued me most!

Compared to other world capitals, Hanoi feels relatively calm and quiet. It also lacked that overtly political vibe that some capitals have. Since most visitors to Northern Vietnam at least pass through Hanoi on their way to the region’s many tourist hotspots, it’s worth knowing what the city is about.

I first spent about two days in Hanoi before embarking on my solo two-week adventure to Sa Pa (an incredible destination that you can read about here). A few weeks later, I spent two more days in Hanoi with my friend Kristen who came to visit all the way from Seattle! I’ve seen enough of the city to document my first impressions in this post, but I may write a second post in the coming months.

I’ll structure this post in a unique way that I think will help those who are headed to Hanoi for an upcoming trip. I’ll tell you what I think you should see if you have one day, two days, or four days to spend in the city.

If You Have Only One Day

Many visitors to Vietnam may have only one day scheduled in the city of Hanoi. You might be on your way to the cultural destination of Ninh Bình, the famous Hà Giang Loop, or Hạ Long Bay. You may also have one night in Hanoi before flying back home after a week or more in Vietnam. If that’s the case, this section is for you!

Hoàn Kiếm Lake

This small lake is probably my favorite touristy attraction in Hanoi. It’s located in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, but the relatively quiet walkway that surrounds Hoàn Kiếm Lake is a world away from the noise and traffic of the blocks directly to the north.

There’s a little temple on an island in the lake’s northern half (Temple of the Jade Mountain). You have to pay a fee to get in, and in my opinion there wasn’t anything spectacular about it. Don’t feel obligated if you aren’t interested; I liked the view of the structure from the shore much more than anything in the temple grounds.

Hoàn Kiếm Lake is also great to walk around at any time of day, especially after sunset. Everything is lit up at night, including the Turtle Tower. The reflections of the buildings on the water make for some great photos if you have a camera that does well in low lighting!

Train Street

The other thing you should check out on a one-day tour of Hanoi is the Train Street. It’s not really a street; it’s a short stretch of active railway not far from the Hanoi Train Station. What’s so special about that? Well, for one, dozens of cafes and restaurants set up folding tables and plastic stools right on the tracks. This in turn attracts hundreds if not thousands of people each day, many of whom stop at one of the eateries to sip on a beverage or have a snack.

You might be thinking, “but that sounds dangerous!” I would agree. But people who live there (and yes, people live in houses with front doors opening onto the train track) seem to know when a train is scheduled to come through. There isn’t any sort of warning system as far as I could tell, but you’ll know if one is few minutes away when all the cafe and restaurant owners start scrambling to move all the tables and chairs to the sides of the tracks. Move over as well and wait for the train to whoosh by. It’ll look like it’s coming right at you, so be ready!

Hanoi's Best Culinary Specialty

There’s one particular food item I recommend if you’ve only got one or two meals in Hanoi: bún chả! This amazing dish is a specialty from Hanoi, so you’ll often see restaurants advertise it by combining the two words together: “bún chả Hà Nội.”

So what is bún chả? It’s easier to just take a look and see for yourself.

Basically, you’ll be served a soup with meat in it, some cooked rice noodles on the side, and a basket of basil, mint, lettuce, and other leafy greens. You dip the noodles and greens in and eat it all together. Part of the reason it’s so good is that it’s simple but delicious. When Kristen and I had bún chả in Hanoi, we just found a stall serving it on the side of the road. It cost about 30,000 VND (approx. 1.30 USD) per serving, so it’s really budget-friendly.

If You Have Two Days

Take a quick look at any map of Hanoi and you’ll see that it’s a city of lakes. That’s why I’m recommending you check out another lake if you have two days to spend there. See everything recommended for day one and then on day two, head over to…

Trúc Bạch Lake

Despite being only about a half hour walk north of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, Trúc Bạch and the surrounding neighborhood offer a different experience. According to this blog, Trúc Bạch actually used to be a part of the much larger and adjacent West Lake before a road was built cutting it off. The lake may not take very long to walk around, but it will take a full morning or afternoon to explore if you’re willing to stop to smell the roses, so to speak. The area boasts two temples, a small island, and a number of restaurants I recommend.

Two Temples

The road mentioned above that separates West Lake from Trúc Bạch Lake is called Thanh Niên, and it’s surrounded by water on both sides. Two small temples are located across from one another on this road. The first is Đền Thủy Trung Tiên, and its entrance is lined with colorful flags.

The second temple is Chùa Trấn Quốc, and its most striking feature is a tall spire with intricate statues (see here). I didn’t feel comfortable entering either temple because I was in a tank top the day I visited. Dress conservatively to show respect if you’re interested in going inside. The pictures shown here are the views from the street.

Trúc Bạch's (Unnamed?) Island

This small island is probably my favorite part of Hanoi. Despite being more or less in the center of the city, it’s incredibly quiet and relaxing. There’s not really much going on here, so you won’t encounter crowds of tourists like you would in the Old Quarter or the French Quarter. In fact, as far as I can tell, the island is so quiet that it doesn’t even have a name. If it has a name that you know, please leave a comment and let me know what it’s called!

The island is connected to the rest of the city by two small bridges that pedestrians and cars can cross (see map below). You won’t need to take a ferry or anything like that. It takes less than fifteen minutes to walk around it, but if there’s any place in Hanoi to meander and go for a leisurely stroll, this is it!

This area is also home to a few cozy-looking restaurants. Kristen and I stopped at Standing Bar, a small bar on the island specializing in craft beer. Be sure to check it out when you visit!

If you’re looking for places to eat, the following three restaurants are located on or near the shores of Trúc Bạch Lake.

Indian Food: Foodshop 45

When I lived in Mexico, Indian food was almost non-existent. Luckily, it’s much more popular in Vietnam, and Foodshop 45 was a good place to get it. Their naan bread is good and their dining room looks out onto the lake. Give this place a visit if you’re looking for something other than Vietnamese food!

A Mexican Restaurant: Tacos - Fresh and More 2

I didn’t actually eat a meal here, but they had good margs (a rare find in Vietnam), so they still get a mention. Next time I go back, I’ll try some of their tacos or quesadillas.

A Recommended Pho Place: Phở Huyền

I unfortunately didn’t get to try this one, but a family I met in Sa Pa ranted and raved about this phở restaurant. It definitely doesn’t look like anything special, but I’ll be sure to try it then next time I’m in Hanoi. If you’ve been, I’m curious if you liked it!

If You Have Four (or More) Days

Old Quarter

Hanoi’s Old Quarter wasn’t one of my favorite areas, but to each their own. It just felt too crowded and chaotic, but it’s the most popular area for visitors. I ended up passing through the neighborhood multiple times during my trips. As I mentioned above, Hoàn Kiếm Lake is located in the Old Quarter, and I really enjoyed walking around it. The rest feels like a big maze of traffic, souvenir shops, hostels, and bars. There’s the occasional point of interest such as the Hang Dau Water Tank, but I’d say overall this neighborhood doesn’t necessarily live up to its name in terms of architecture and style.

If you need to shop, Old Quarter is also home to Đồng Xuân Market (pictured below). I picked up a pair of shoes there for about 12 USD, but you can get everything from food and drinks to gifts. It’s a cool place to check out, especially at night.

French Quarter

The French Quarter to me was sort of similar to the Old Quarter in terms of not necessarily being super interesting. The streets reminded me a little bit of New Orleans, which I guess makes sense. Unfortunately, I didn’t see anything there that really grabbed my attention. I think I need to give these two areas another chance the next time I go back. Nevertheless, they’re the most popular neighborhoods among visitors and are still pleasant to walk around.

Food

Be sure to try Vietnamese food in Hanoi! There are tons of resources online to learn more about the most popular dishes in Vietnam. In general, food is very cheap and Vietnamese food is so satisfying. Hanoi also has a huge variety of dining options.

Case in point: the dish pictured above came from a vegan all-you-can-eat buffet called Veggie Castle. What’s even better is that it only cost a few dollars! Even as a non-vegan, I loved their food and left feeling super full. If you’re in Hanoi, be open to trying something new. You won’t be disappointed!

Logistical Info

Hanoi is fairly easy to get around. By international standards, it’s also quite safe. Exercise normal caution and take care to prevent being pickpocketed, especially in the French Quarter and Old Quarter where tourists congregate and streets can be chaotic.

The one thing I’d mention is that you should download the Grab app. Grab is like the Uber of Southeast Asia. You don’t even have to connect it a credit card; you can use it to book rides and then pay in cash upon arrival. The reason I suggest you use it: I got ripped off in taxis on multiple occasions. I read online that taxis are notoriously fraudulent in Hanoi, so it’s better not to risk it. The Grab app presents an upfront fare and it doesn’t change even if there’s traffic. It’s more transparent and safe, and you can even use it to take hitch rides on the backs of motorbikes if you want a truly local experience of getting around!

I hope that this post provides some ideas for first-time visitors to Hanoi! If you have any additional suggestions, leave a comment below and let me know! I’m sure I’ll return to Hanoi sooner than later and can’t wait to see even more of Vietnam’s fascinating capital!

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This post was published on May 5, 2019

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The post Initial Impressions of Hanoi, Vietnam’s Intriguing Capital appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

How To Visit Vietnam’s Highest Mountain In An Afternoon

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 01 May 2019 17:00:19 +0000

How To Visit Vietnam’s Highest Mountain In An Afternoon

Published May 2, 2019

Did you know that you can reach the summit of Vietnam’s tallest mountain in just one afternoon and be back at the base in time for dinner? Located near the small village of Sa Pa in Lào Cai Province, Fansipan Mountain (Vietnamese: Phan Xi Păng) is the perfect day trip for anyone planning to spend a few days or more in this rural corner of Vietnam. At only 3,143 meters high, the mountain is easily accessible thanks to its relative shortness (compared to other mountains around the world) and a newly-built cable car that can take you most of the way up.

As part of my recent two-week stay in Sa Pa, I decided to spend one day visiting Fansipan. It was definitely one of the highlights of my trip! The top is home to a large complex of Buddhist temples and monuments, all of which are really beautiful.

Fansipan can also be hiked, but it’s quite the endeavor. I think it usually takes two days with an overnight stop somewhere along the way. Although that sounds doable, the main issue is that it’s quite expensive. It’s my understanding that you have to hire a guide (i.e. not optional), and this can cost more than 100 USD per person. Although I’m sure hiking the mountain is a really rewarding experience, I decided to save some cash and time by opting out.

This short guide is written for visitors who want to take the cable car to visit Fansipan. If you’re intent on hiking it, check out this blog post that offers more information about treks and tour options. Otherwise, read on!

Why You Should Visit Fansipan

Fansipan is worth a visit not only because it has some amazing views, but also because of all the Buddhist temples at the top. You’ll literally be above the clouds. Fansipan is admittedly out of the way, but if you’re already planning on coming to this little corner of Vietnam, don’t overlook this day trip to the mountain. Below are the steps to a successful visit to Fansipan.

How to Visit Fansipan

Step 1. Get to Sa Pa.

The small village of Sa Pa is much more famous for its stunning terraced rice fields than its proximity to Fansipan. Be sure to see both the rice fields and Fansipan if you’re heading to the area!

Sa Pa is located in the far northwest of Vietnam, not far from one of the major border crossings into China. I’ve written a very detailed post about Sa Pa that you can read here, or skip directly to the section on how to get to Sa Pa from Hanoi by clicking here.

Step 2. Buy your ticket.

Your day trip will start in the main public square of Sa Pa town, or more precisely the Sun Plaza Sa Pa Station. This blocky shopping center towers over all the other buildings around it, and it looks wholly out of the place. The ticket booth is located on the main floor, and signs and employees can help guide the way if you get lost.

Tickets are expensive by Vietnamese standards. In spring of 2019, it cost 750,000 VND (approx. 32 USD) for a round-trip ticket. Compare that to the equally stunning cable car in Phú Quốc, which holds the record for the longest cable car in the world and only cost 150,000 VND (7 USD).

Step 3. Take the monorail.

At the Sun Plaza Sa Pa Station, you’ll first take a short monorail ride from the shopping center to the Cable Car Downhill Station. The train is elevated above street level and offers a first look at the kind of views you can expect to see as you ascend.

You can technically save yourself 50,000 VND (approx 2.20 USD) if you choose not to take the monorail. But the cable car station in Sa Pa is on the outskirts of town, so it would probably take at least half an hour to walk there from the main square. A taxi to the cable car station from town would almost certainly cost more than the 50k, so I highly recommend just taking the monorail even though it costs slightly more.

Step 4. Go up the mountain in the cable car.

After getting off the monorail, you’ll find yourself at the cable car station at the base of the mountain. Hold on to your ticket, which you’ll use to get on. Cars come into the station every few minutes, so you shouldn’t ever have to wait.

The ride up lasts about twenty minutes, and according to this website, earned two world records: the longest non-stop three-rope cable car and the greatest change in elevation of such a system, going up 1410 meters from the bottom to the top.

Views from the cable car are incredible. Most of the ride will whisk you high above a dense forest of trees below, with minimal signs of human activity or presence. In contrast, the bottom of the ride will allow you to see some of the famous rice paddies in Sa Pa from an aerial point of view.

Although the ride was amazing, there was a freaky thing that happened on the way down. Click here to skip below and read about that!

Step 5. Walk the rest of the way to the peak.

There is the option to take a short funicular ride from the cable car station to the very peak of the mountain, but I just recommend doing this last final bit on foot. You’ll save yourself a dollar or two, but more importantly, you’ll be able to explore the many temples and monuments here at your own pace. I think it’s about 600 steps from the station to the peak, but it’s worth it.

By the time you reach the peak, you’ll probably be ready for a little rest. The views are great, but don’t expect to be able to see all the way down into the Mường Hoa Valley below, even on a fairly clear day. The drop in temperature from Sa Pa to the peak is noticeable, but I would say a jacket isn’t necessary at least in spring and summer. A long sleeve shirt or one extra layer might be a good idea, though.

The peak is marked by a number of bronze pyramids which are great places for a picture. I figured there would just be a single one, but luckily there are a bunch, so you won’t have to fight with other tourists for the perfect shot!

Step 6. Repeat in reverse.

After you make it to the peak, you’ll just repeat the entire process in reverse, which is pretty self-explanatory.

One Freaky Incident...

In the spirit of full disclosure, I will let you know about one incident that occurred on the way back down the mountain. The cable car system apparently lost power while I was on it, suspended in midair, hundreds of feet above trees below. This caused our pod to lurch forward and down a bit before remaining stationary and suspended in the air for a number of minutes. Employees eventually radioed in to the intercom and explained (in Vietnamese only) that power had been lost, but luckily other people in my car were able to translate.

Obviously, no one got hurt, and a feat of engineering such as this should have multiple safeguards for cases of inclement weather or power failures. However, it was still quite a shock that left everyone’s hearts pounding!

So on that note, I’d say if you have a major fear of heights, this cable car ride many not be for you. Our little power failure notwithstanding, this ride was much more adventurous than the one in Phú Quốc, or other ones I’ve been on in Colombia and Ecuador.

You’re so high off the ground for most of it, and the truly massive distances between support poles will leave you wondering how the design is even physically possible. Sometimes five or seven minutes would go by without passing one, and in many places, the cable would disappear into the horizon because the next tower was so far away, such as in the picture below.

I’d say Fansipan is worth the visit, unless you think the cable car would give you a panic attack. So would you do it? Let me know in the comments below! If you’ve hiked this mountain, I’m curious about your experience as well! Thanks for reading and stay tuned for upcoming Vietnam excursions!

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This post was published on May 2, 2019

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Sa Pa: Incredible Rice Terraces (And a Peek Into The World Of Backpacking)

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 30 Apr 2019 17:00:46 +0000

Sa Pa: Incredible Rice Terraces (And a Peek Into The World Of Backpacking)

Published May 1, 2019

Rice terraces are one of Asia’s most iconic landscapes, and seeing them in person should be on every traveler’s bucket list! There’s something truly amazing about these stratified, horizontal layers carved into steep mountainsides stretching toward the horizon as far as the eye can see. It’s a perfect blend of natural beauty and man-made wonder. The topographical lines are almost a work of art, but they serve a practical, fundamental purpose: to produce rice, a crop that is vital to life in this part of the world.

You can visit rice terraces in a number of Asian countries, but Vietnam is a great choice because it is both safe and accessible to visitors. Rice is grown in many Vietnamese provinces, but most of the terraces tend to be concentrated in the mountainous northwest of the country near the border with Laos and China. Perhaps the most popular spot for visitors is the town of Sa Pa in the province of Lào Cai.

I spent two full weeks in Sa Pa because I finished my ESL teaching certification at the beginning of April. However, I don’t start teaching in Ho Chi Minh City until the end of May. With nearly two months of break, I finally had the opportunity to test out the concept of “slow travel.” I didn’t want to spend the money to hop between a bunch of different cities or countries. It has been three months since I last received a paycheck, after all!

I stayed at one guesthouse for the full duration of my two weeks in Sa Pa, I wouldn’t necessarily call this trip proper “backpacking.” However, I did meet a ton of backpackers during my time here, so this is probably the most contact and exposure I’ve had to that elusive and intriguing form of travel!

In this post, I’ll share the inside scoop on a perfect getaway to Sa Pa. You don’t have to spend two weeks there like I did to fully enjoy the stunning views and warm hospitality of the locals. However, I do have some tips to make your trip easier, cheaper, and more enjoyable! I feel like I got to know the area really well and am excited to pass that knowledge on to you! These are the things I’ll be covering in this post:

How and where to see the rice fields
Reflections on backpacking
A summary of Sa Pa town
Where you should stay
Activity ideas
A few words on food
Additional info

1. Sa Pa's Stunning Rice Fields

First things first: how and where to see the best views of the rice terraces! This is the main attraction in Sa Pa, and for good reason. The scenery will absolutely take your breath away. Know that the pictures don’t really do it justice! Consider photos only a piece of the puzzle; the landscapes are a 360-degree experience that can’t be fully captured by camera. We’ll start with the “where” and then discuss the “how.”

Where

The best views of the rice fields can be found in the Mường Hoa Valley, which extends for many miles southeast of Sa Pa town and is only accessible by winding dirt roads (as of April 2019). Although the town of Sa Pa offers some good views, the valley is just so much more lush and picturesque. That’s why I recommend that you not only visit Mường Hoa Valley, but also find lodging in one of the villages there (more on that below).

I explored the Mường Hoa Valley extensively between the outskirts of Sa Pa town (located here) and the massive river dam (located here). What’s great is that the main roads are all built high along the eastern slope: above the river, villages, and fields below. Therefore, you won’t have to hike up to a hard-to-reach place for a great view. Instead, there are stunning panoramic scenes almost everywhere.

In order to enter the Mường Hoa Valley, visitors may have to pay a one-time 75,000 VND (approx. 3 USD) fee as you leave Sa Pa town. You’ll receive a ticket like the one shown below. Hold on to it for as long as you stay in the area and you won’t have to pay the fee again.

How

Bring comfortable walking shoes because the best way to explore is on foot. If you have an old pair, bring those since the roads and trails can be very dusty or muddy. Whether you hire a local trekking guide or explore on your own, give yourself enough time to really wander. Some of the best views aren’t found along any road or trail. For example, I took the photos below while walking through a grass field on a hill.

Option 1: Explore on your own

It’s important to know that you don’t need to pay for a guide in order to fully experience the beauty of this area. Although a guided tour will probably take you through some smaller villages and hiking trails that you probably wouldn’t find on your own, the main roads in Sa Pa offer very similar views to the ones you’ll see on any guided tour.

Not all hiking trails are hard to access, however. If you find one on your own, see where it leads! Many of these dirt paths will bring you through the rice fields; they’re a great way to see the terraces and rice plants up close.

Although it’s totally possible to use the main roads as your guide for walking from one end of the valley to the other, know that as a pedestrian you’ll be sharing the road with a lot of motorbikes, a few cars, and a bunch of construction vehicles and equipment. Sa Pa and the Mường Hoa Valley seemed to be in a constant state of construction, so you’ll need to stay alert.

Option 2: Hire a guide

If forging your own hiking path isn’t your style, never fear! Trekking guides are everywhere in Sa Pa and the Mường Hoa Valley, and in most cases all you’ll need to do is book something with your hostel or homestay. Routes can depend a lot on what you want and how much you’re willing to pay, but they run from “half-day” treks to multiple-day ordeals.

I’ll go into more detail below about why Miku Chill House was the best homestay ever, but one of the reasons it was so awesome is that the owner’s mother is the designated hiking guide. On the day I booked it, she met a large group of guests directly at the homestay and took us up a hill. We continued through a small village, many rice and corn fields, and finally through a bamboo forest.

Our lunch was a typical family-style meal that was served about halfway through the hike. It may look simple, but the meal was really satisfying after multiple hours walking!

As we were wrapping up our meal, our guide brought out a bowl of homemade rice wine, which she amusingly called “happy water.” It smelled sweet but ended up tasting quite strong and stiff! After we finished one round, our guide offered another (and poured one for herself). Over and over again, she refilled the cups of anyone who didn’t adamantly refuse (as well as her own) until finally the bowl was empty. You might think that this was a moment of celebration for finishing a difficult trek, but no, we still had a whole afternoon of walking left under the hot sun!

The trek cost 300,000 VND per person which included lunch and the happy water. However, we had a large group, so it would’ve cost more per person if the group was smaller.

So was it worth the money? Well, for about 13 USD you get a meal, multiple shots of alcohol, and a full-day hike on a route that you wouldn’t be able to find on your own. Perhaps more importantly, it was nice to hang out with a group of other travelers for basically the whole day, and our guide was a lot of fun (and managed to out-drink most of us!). So I’d say that unless you have a really tight budget, the guided trek was worth it. Just don’t forget to explore on your own as well, at least a little bit!

A note on the weather

The weather isn’t always sunny here. Sometimes the valley can be cloudy, rainy, or foggy for the entire day. Therefore, schedule at least three or four days in the area if you can! It would be a shame to come all the way to Sa Pa only to have limited visibility during a very short stay.

Sources online claim that the best time to visit Sa Pa is in the spring or fall, and I thought that the weather in April was really comfortable. As you can see in the pictures on this post, the mountains and rice paddies run from brown to lush green, and the fields that are flooded produce some really beautiful and unique reflections. Pictures online show the fields turning to bright gold in fall, so I’d love to come back and see them again right before the harvest if I ever go back!

What about renting a motorbike?

Traffic in Sa Pa town is actually surprisingly congested, and the roads outside of town aren’t exactly paved. If you have a lot of experience driving a motorbike in rough, rural conditions, this could be an option for you. If not, Sa Pa is probably not the ideal place to try and learn how to ride for the first time.

2. Reflections on Backpacking

One of my favorite things about this trip is that for the first time in my life (or at least in many years), I got to meet a bunch of backpackers and really get a sense of what it’s all about. Most people who stayed in my guesthouse only spent a few nights in Sa Pa before they were off to another part of Vietnam or Southeast Asia, so I was definitely the odd one out for staying in the same place for two whole weeks.

Even though everyone who came through my homestay only stayed for a couple of nights, I felt like I really got to know many of them in a meaningful way despite the short period of time. Homestays are a truly great option for solo travelers because the other people you meet there will feel like longtime friends after only a matter of hours or days.

Since most of my travels up until this point have been weekend trips, they’ve focused more on seeing as much of a destination as possible in a limited amount of time. I’m intrigued by backpacking (or at least, a variation of it) because it seemed to naturally foster meeting new people and building relationships. I’m hoping to explore this genre of travel in more depth in the coming months now that I’m based in Southeast Asia!

3. A Summary of Sa Pa town

If I had to say one thing about Sa Pa town, it would be that it feels incredibly touristy. If you look at it on Google Maps, the town appears to be tiny, like you could walk from one end to another in a matter of minutes. You might wonder if there are even hotels and restaurants here. The answer is yes; in fact, there are so many hotels that are brand new or currently under construction that I really wonder how many of them are going to stay in business long-term. Just take a look at the following pictures to see how built-up Sa Pa is.

Of course, some tourists may want the comforts of a resort town, which is an accurate term to describe Sa Pa. Many of the hotels also offer a view of the rice fields. However, if you really want to see the best views and immerse yourself in the lifestyle of the people who’ve lived here for generations, I highly recommend that you stay at a guesthouse outside of the city. I talk more about my homestay in a nearby village below.

Even though I don’t think you should stay there, it’s still worth spending an afternoon or evening in town. There are some good restaurants and bars. There’s also a little lake that’s relaxing to walk around if the weather is nice.

In the main square, there’s a picturesque stone church as well as a large open-air amphitheater where locals play soccer and volleyball in the evenings.

In my opinion, those are the only quaint parts of Sa Pa town. Otherwise, it’s a hectic town with traffic that can come to a standstill, a ton of construction, clubs that blast music for the whole block to hear, and relentless street vendors trying to sell trinkets you don’t want or need. If you’re in search of a relaxing escape to the rice fields of Vietnam, skip the hotels and chaotic streets of Sa Pa town!

4. Where to Stay

Now that you know why not to stay in town, I’ll show you why you should stay in the Mường Hoa Valley instead! The villages and small communities there are so much more relaxing than Sa Pa, and most appear to have numerous guesthouses and homestays for you to choose from. I stayed at Miku Chill House, a homestay located near the village of Tả Van.

Tả Van is composed of a number of houses and small businesses clustered around a main road as you can see in the picture above. It’s incredibly quaint and laid-back, and it’s the kind of place where locals and strangers will greet you on the street.

Miku Chill Homestay

I’ve already touched on a few of the reasons why homestays are amazing: they arrange day treks, and they’re the perfect place to meet other travelers. Miku Chill House had all this and more: delicious food, a really cozy atmosphere, and a great view.

What I’ll remember most, though, is the fact that Miku, her family, and her employees made all their guests feel like a part of the community. That’s obviously not an easy thing for a hostel owner to do, and the fact that she does it so well and so naturally is the main reason I recommend staying at Miku’s.

5. Activity Ideas

If you stay in the Sa Pa area for a while like I did, the novelty of the scenery may eventually wear off and you might be interested in doing some activities other than trekking. All of the ideas listed below are based in and around town, so you’ll need to arrange a ride there if you’re staying in the valley.

Fansipan (Phan Xi Păng): Vietnam's Highest Mountain

If you do only one activity on this list, take the cable car from Sa Pa to Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest peak. It’ll fill up an entire afternoon, but it’s well worth the effort and money because there are a bunch of beautiful temples at the summit. I’ve dedicated a separate post to that day trip, which you can read here.

Waterfalls

There are two major waterfalls a little to the northwest of Sa Pa: the Love Waterfall and the Silver Waterfall. Since both are located about a half-hour to forty-five minutes outside of the town by car, you’ll have to arrange either a taxi or day tour (private driver) to get to them. Ask your homestay if they can help you arrange something.

I only visited the Silver Waterfall, and heavy fog ended up rolling in right as we arrived. It ended up being a bit atmospheric, but it was hard to actually see the upper half of the falls. If you make it to Love Waterfall, leave a comment below and let me know how it is!

Cat Cat Village

I have mixed feelings about Cat Cat, an area on the outskirts of Sa Pa that has been turned into what some might call a tourist trap. You have to pay a small fee to enter the area, and once you do, you basically just a follow a loop on foot. The first half of the trail is basically an outdoor shopping mall. There are countless stalls that all sell the exact same souvenirs and knick knacks that you can find in town.

The second half of the trail is a little bit nicer. You’ll cross a river on a little bridge and pass by a small waterfall (not one of the two mentioned above). The souvenir shops and stalls become less frequent as you near the end of the loop, but they never fully disappear. Since you can do any number of nature walks in the Mường Hoa Valley without having to pay or be bombarded by vendors, I’m hesitant to recommend Cat Cat Village. However, it’s an option if you really need something to do one afternoon.

6. Food in Sa Pa

I have to admit that food in Sa Pa is not necessarily one of the area’s biggest draws. Meals tend to be Vietnamese classics (phở, fried rice, etc) and they were a bit bland here. On top of that, restaurant prices in Sa Pa were consistently more expensive than in Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi (although still a small fraction of typical prices in the US). The one drawback to staying in a village in the Mường Hoa Valley is that you’ll have fewer dining choices than if you stay in Sa Pa town.

The best way to deal with the lack of options if you stay outside of town is to take part in the homestay’s family dinners. Not only are they a great way to meet your fellow hostel-mates, but the meals also tend to have a lot of variety and a good mix of veggies and protein. It’s also varied each day, so you’ll never be served two identical meals in a row. At Miku Chill House, the family dinner cost 90,000 VND per person, which is admittedly expensive for a meal in Vietnam, but they were always delicious and usually filling.

Vietnam's Best Beverage...

One particular beverage is good no matter where you go in Vietnam: coffee! There’s three varieties you should try that are pictured below, and all of them can be found in Sa Pa.

Vietnamese Coffee

Pictured first above, Vietnamese-style coffee is the gold standard no matter where you travel in the country (I don’t think I’ve ever seen drip coffee anywhere in Vietnam). It’s served with this special metal filter and comes out strong, a bit like coffee brewed in a French press. If you aren’t a black coffee drinker, ask for it with condensed milk, which is very viscous and sweet and should be mixed thoroughly after all the coffee has filtered into the glass. Vietnamese coffee can be served hot or iced.

Coconut Coffee

The second picture shows coconut coffee, which when ordered cold, basically tastes like espresso over ice cream. For those who don’t love the taste of most caffeinated beverages, coconut coffee is a great way to experience Vietnamese coffee culture because it’s sweet, refreshing, and not really bitter.

Egg Coffee

The last picture with the scenic background may look like a latte, but this is actually egg coffee! I know what you’re thinking, that egg coffee sounds really strange and unappetizing. Maybe you’re picturing a raw egg yolk dumped into a cup of black coffee (I know I was before I tried it), but that’s not what it is at all. I’m not exactly sure how they do it, but I think that the egg white is used to make the foam. It is actually a really good drink, and everyone I’ve met who’s tried it ends up really liking it! If you want to have a truly authentic and complete coffee experience in Vietnam, be sure to give this a try!

Sa Pa Town's Best Food Offerings

As I mention above, the town of Sa Pa has a better variety of cuisine than the villages in the valley. If you’re a fan of BBQ skewers, there are a couple of restaurants and street stands selling them around throughout town.

I also found a really amazing Indian restaurant in town called Namaste Omar’s, located here. They appear to have a couple of other locations throughout Vietnam as well. The butter chicken I had here was so good that I decided to go back for another meal a few days later. If you need a little bit of culinary variety while staying in Sa Pa, I wholeheartedly recommend Omar’s!

Sa Pa town also has a bunch of bars. The two I recommend are The Hmong Sisters and The Hill Station. The Hmong Sisters is a pretty standard bar with a nice relaxed atmosphere, especially if you go in the early evening or on a weekday.

The Hill Station is a quaint little place just up the street from The Hmong Sisters that serves food, wine, and beer on tap. This is another relaxing place with a great vibe. If you’re a fan of craft beer, this is the place for you!

There’s also a bunch of pizza restaurants both in Sa Pa town and in the villages, but needless to say, pizza served in rural Vietnam may not taste like what you’re used to. I’ll just leave it at that.

7. Additional Info

In order to get to Sa Pa, you’ll need to either take a bus or train from Hanoi. Most visitors seemed to take the bus, but I decided to try the train which ended up being a good experience. Since the train departs at night and arrives early the following morning, I recommend booking a bed in a sleeper car instead of a seat. It’s not necessarily a restful sleep, but at least you’ll arrive without feeling like you’ve pulled an all nighter.

I booked my train ticket through this agency and the round-trip ticket cost about 60 USD, but word of mouth was that the tickets are cheaper with other agencies. You can purchase tickets in person at the train station in Hanoi (located here), but I don’t recommend waiting until the last minute because they could be sold out.

If you do take the train, you’ll be dropped off in the city of Lào Cai. Shared vans going to Sa Pa can be booked upon arrival and will cost 50,000 VND. The van ride from Lào Cai to the center of Sa Pa town takes about an hour.

Once you’re in Sa Pa, I recommend using your homestay to book any and all taxis you may take during your time here. “Grab” (the Vietnamese version of Uber) doesn’t really operate in Sa Pa, and taxis you hail on the street are almost sure to try and rip you off or overcharge you in some way or another. Since homestays partner with drivers they know, there’s an element of accountability and trust. Taxis booked through homestays usually have upfront rates instead of a running meter.

Epilogue

(Because this post was basically a novel)

I feel like this is one of my posts that ended up looking like an encyclopedia article. However, I’m hoping that it answers any and all questions for visitors headed to Sa Pa! Departing Sa Pa after two weeks felt like leaving home in a way, but I’m so glad that I spent such an extended period of time there and saw a more complete picture of life in the valley. The area truly is spectacular and I think that even a short visit to this little corner of Vietnam would be a unique experience even for avid travelers.

In the past few weeks, I’ve been in and out of Hanoi four times, and each time I spent at least a night there. My next post will be about my first impressions of Vietnam’s fascinating capital, a city I’m sure I’ll be returning to many times in the future! Thanks for reading, and be sure to leave a comment below!

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This post was published on May 1, 2019

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The post Sa Pa: Incredible Rice Terraces (And a Peek Into The World Of Backpacking) appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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Things To Do In Saigon: Tips From Someone Who Lived There

1. A Cathedral and a Post Office

The Notre Dame CathedralNhà thờ Đức Bà Sài Gòn

The Central Post OfficeBưu Điện Trung Tâm Thành Phố

Nguyễn Văn Bình StreetĐường Nguyễn Văn Bình

2. THe Opera House

Nhà hát Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh

3. City Hall & Nguyễn Huệ Walking Street

UBND Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh

4. See The City From Above

The Saigon Skydeck at Bitexco Financial Tower

My Favorite Rooftop Bar

5. Vietnam History Museum

6. Bùi Viên (Backpacker Street)

7. The War Remnants Museum

Bảo tàng Chứng tích Chiến tranh

8. Bến Thành Market

Chợ Bến Thành

9. Independence Palace

Dinh Độc Lập

10. The Famous Pink Church

Nhà thờ Tân Định

11. Day Trip Ideas

The Củ Chi Tunnels

See The Mekong Delta

12. The Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon

How Long Should You Stay in Saigon?

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The Expat’s Guide To Eating In Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

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Burgers: Rogue Saigon

Fried Chicken: Texas Chicken

Mexican: Gringo Tacos and The Taco Stand

Gringo Tacos

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Indian: Shanti Indian Cuisine

Pizza: Pizza 4P's and Italiani's Pizza

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Italiani's Pizza​

The Deck Saigon

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Layla - Eatery & Bar

Hen House Craft Beer Bar

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AIR Saigon (formerly 'Air 360 Sky Lounge')

Rogue Saigon

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The Notre Dame Cathedral
Nhà thờ Đức Bà Sài Gòn

The Central Post Office
Bưu Điện Trung Tâm Thành Phố

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Italiani's Pizza

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Vườn quốc gia Côn Đảo

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Hồ An Hải

The Museum
Bảo Tàng Côn Đảo

The Prison
Nhà tù Côn Đảo

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