Colombia Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/colombia/ Blog of a Traveling Coffee Addict Tue, 13 Aug 2024 17:52:50 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://i0.wp.com/caffeinatedexcursions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/wp-1555570621336.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Colombia Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/colombia/ 32 32 141833777 San Andrés – The Caribbean’s Best-Kept Secret: A Colombian Adventure Part 2 of 3 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/san-andres-the-caribbeans-best-kept-secret-a-colombian-adventure-part-2-of-3/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/san-andres-the-caribbeans-best-kept-secret-a-colombian-adventure-part-2-of-3/#comments Sat, 02 Mar 2019 17:00:48 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=5613 If you’ve been following Caffeinated Excursions, then you know that one of things that inspired me to start blogging was my newfound love of all things Caribbean. In addition to pristine beaches, ... this part of the world has fascinating cultures and histories. This is especially true of the tiny Colombian island of San Andrés...

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San Andrés – The Caribbean’s Best-Kept Secret: A Colombian Adventure Part 2 of 3

Published March 3, 2019

If you’ve been following Caffeinated Excursions for a while, then you know that one of things that inspired me to start blogging in 2018 was my newfound love of all things Caribbean. In addition to pristine beaches, palm trees, and blue waters, this part of the world has fascinating cultures and histories that tell a lot about how the Americas came to be what they are today.

This is especially true of the tiny Colombian island of San Andrés, which is located about 200 miles off the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua. Like all small, remote islands, San Andrés has a truly unique blend of cultures that is unlike any other place I’ve visited. Most residents speak Spanish, English, as well as a creole that visitors might be able to understand bits and pieces of. Despite being a part of Colombia, the island reminded me a lot of the Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos Islands, but it still had its own unique vibe because it’s so far from any other island in the Caribbean Sea.

There are no regular commercial flights between the US and San Andrés, so most of the visitors to the island come from various parts of Colombia. With that in mind, it’s fair to say that the island is not really Americanized. San Andrés could be called touristy, especially its northern side where resorts are clustered, but it isn’t overwhelmingly so.

For all these reasons, if you find yourself in Colombia with a couple of days to spare, San Andrés could be a great place to really unwind and experience an island that most non-Colombians have probably never even heard of! Keep reading to see what you can discover on this little slice of paradise!

Things To Do

San Andrés isn’t the kind of place where you’ll need a set itinerary, but there are a few things you should try to see and do during your trip.

Playa Spratt Bight

The main town on the island (including the airport) is situated on its northern shore, and for good reason: the best beach on the island, Spratt Bight, is located right here. It’s fairly touristy and crowded, but be sure not to miss its pretty blue waters and beautiful white sand.

Bike Around the Island

I talk a little bit about transportation options below, but one activity you can do is bike around the island. As someone who doesn’t normally bike, I was utterly exhausted and it took me about four hours. However, I’m glad I got to see the southern half of the island, which is much less developed than the north.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuMW9s6BgO-/

I ended up arranging a bike rental through my Airbnb who connected me to a local rental guy, but the bike did end up breaking on the road, so I had to wait about half an hour for him to drive over and give me a replacement. If you end up renting a bike, be sure to check it out when you pick it up to make sure it’s sturdy and rides properly.

Things I Missed

Because I biked all the way around San Andrés, I feel like I got a good sense of the island’s different terrains and neighborhoods. With that said, there were two things I missed that you might be interested in.

Johnny Cay

Johnny Cay (also known in Spanish as Islote Sucre) is a tiny island just off the coast of San Andrés. In fact, it’s visible from Spratt Bight beach, and Johnny Cay is a popular day trip from the main island that gets some pretty great reviews online.

Unfortunately, boat trips to the island were cancelled the entire time I was here! The waters in this part of the Caribbean Sea are known to be pretty choppy, and apparently it was so windy during my visit that the tour companies had to cancel all boats. This is one place I’d love to see if I ever come back someday.

Morgan's Cave

Another attraction I missed was Morgan’s Cave, which is also home to a museum about pirates (I think). I actually rode past it a couple of times on my bike, and decided not to go because it looked like a tourist trap, and it had fairly mediocre reviews online. If you decide to check it out, let me know what it’s like in the comments below!

One Other Thing...The Island of Providencia

As it turns out, there’s actually another Colombian island about 60 miles north of San Andrés called Providencia. This island is even smaller than San Andrés, and my Airbnb host told me that it’s much less developed and has even more natural beauty.

Since I only spent about three days here, I didn’t have time to visit Providencia, which can only be accessed by plane from San Andrés (or reportedly by ferry). San Andrés is already really off the beaten path, so I’m sure Providencia would be an even more fascinating destination. If you plan on traveling to the island for a week or more, it might be worth it to jet over to Providencia for a few days to check it out!

Food and Lodging Options

Cuisine on San Andrés was one of my favorite things about this beautiful island! It’s pretty different from the food I had in Bogotá and Medellín, but it was similar to some of the dishes I had in Cartagena. If you love fresh seafood, then San Andrés is the perfect place for you, but there’s also a bunch of other offerings including a lot of dishes that will be familiar to Americans.

The one thing you should definitely try here is lobster. It’s cheap by American standards, but don’t expect a steal. It’s really good here though, and I actually ended up ordering it twice during my three days here because I enjoyed it so much! Pictured above is a lobster dish from Bocca de Oro, a restaurant located in the main town with an open-air dining room and a stage for live music.

Another thing you have to try on the island is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant! When I came across Tony Restaurant (pictured below) and saw that it was filled with locals, I knew I had to check it out. It may not look fancy, but the fried chicken I had there was truly amazing. Some of the restaurants in town may not look like much, but if they’re filled with locals, they’re bound to have some of the best authentic home-style meals!

Another case in point: this beef wrap from an unassuming stand on the side of the road may not look amazing, but it was actually really good! Don’t be afraid to try some of these places; you won’t regret it!

My favorite restaurant I tried here (which I think is also the fanciest on the island) is La Regatta. I tried making a same-day dinner reservation, but they were already booked, so I put my name on the waiting list and got seated about 20 minutes later. Make a reservation a couple of days in advance (at least) to guarantee a table!

When you walk into the establishment from the street, you’ll be greeted by a long, colorful garden, at the end of which you’ll find the restaurant overlooking the water. It’s a beautifully designed space, and a fitting preview to a delicious meal in a classy yet fun atmosphere.

For an appetizer, I decided to try some salmon poke and one of their house cocktails, both of which ended up being pretty good.

However, my entrée was really the highlight of my dinner at La Regatta. This was the second time I ordered lobster while visiting San Andrés, and what made this dish so memorable was the fact that it was served with three different sauces. They have a large list to choose from, but if I remember correctly, I chose mango, coconut, and butter as my three. Each of the sauces went so well with the lobster, and I left feeling insanely full because this dish was so massive!

If you’re craving something other than seafood, the town area near Spratt Bight Beach has everything from burger joints to Italian and Chinese restaurants. For my last lunch before departing, I tried the seafood pizza at CafeCafé which took a long time but was pretty tasty when it finally arrived. I’d of course recommend trying more local specialties than familiar comfort foods, but they’re here if want them!

Where To Stay

In terms of lodging, you really have two options. You can stay on the north side of the island or you can find a place further south. If you choose to stay north, you’ll be close to the beach, close to the airport, and close to restaurants and nightlife. If you find a place further south, it’ll be easier to explore the entire island, but you won’t have as many options for food (especially at night).

I chose to stay near the town of San Luis, which is located here. A part of me wishes I had stayed closer to town, but I really loved the guest house I stayed in even though it wasn’t in the most convenient location. House of the Sun was such a good place to stay because the host, Martha, was so incredibly welcoming and hospitable. Breakfast each day is included in the cost, and she is an amazing cook! She and her neighbors also raise chickens, so I think the eggs she uses are truly farm fresh.

San Luis also just feels a lot more local, and although there’s a huge resort nearby, this small town just isn’t as popular with tourists. Even if you choose to stay at one of the many resorts near Spratt Bight Beach, try to visit San Luis (or other parts of the island) for an afternoon.

Other Relevant Info

Flights

Although there appear to be occasional international flights to San Andrés, the easiest and probably cheapest option is to fly here from a major city in Colombia. LATAM Airlines seemed to offer the best deals, and I flew with them to and from San Andrés without any problem. The flight from the Colombian “mainland” will last between one and two hours depending on which city you’re departing from or heading to.

Tourist Card

While checking in at the airport, you’ll be required to buy a tourist card which must be submitted upon arrival to San Andrés. It costs about 40 USD, but it can be purchased with credit card. Even if you’re traveling domestically (e.g. from Bogotá or Medellín), you must bring your passport with you and pass through customs at the arrivals hall of the airport.

Getting Around the Island

You have a number of options to get around the island including buses, bike rentals, or taxis. For those who want to rent a vehicle, I’m sure there are options for that as well. However, you don’t need a rental car to get around, unlike on some other Caribbean islands.

Bus

San Andrés has a relatively good bus system, although the vehicles can get pretty crowded since they’re smaller than the typical city bus. Tickets only cost 2,600 COP (less than 1 dollar), and bus routes appeared to cover the whole island.

Buses look like this, and stops aren’t well-defined. If you see one going the direction you want to go on one of the main roads, just gesture for it to stop and it will. There are a couple of routes, so if you’re not sure, just ask the driver if he’s headed where you want to go. Bus service here doesn’t run really late into the night, so if you need to get home after a late dinner or a night on the town, your best bet is to find a…

Taxi

Taxis are available, especially if you’re departing from somewhere in town on the northern side of the island. However, you should confirm with the driver how much the ride is going to be. From the airport to San Luis cost about 30,000 Colombian pesos (approx. 10 USD), so taxi rides are relatively affordable.

Bike

As I mention in a section above, it is possible to bike while visiting the island. It’s not the fastest or most convenient way to get around, but it might be the most scenic. If you don’t normally bike, expect your legs to be sore if this is what you decide to do!

Language and Currency

Although Spanish is the official language of Colombia, English has official status on San Andrés. If you like languages, listen for the local creole language spoken amongst locals. It’s very interesting to hear, and if you’re curious about it you can read more here.

The currency is the Colombian peso (COP). You might be able to use USD, but don’t count on it. If you’re arriving from another city in Colombia, just exchange cash or withdraw local currency before arriving to San Andrés if you can.

You Haven't Seen the Caribbean Until You've Seen San Andrés

Because of the lack of easy access for foreign tourists, San Andrés is probably one of the least-known islands in all the Caribbean. You might think that it’s because so few people live there, but that’s not even true. With an estimated population of about 75,000, San Andrés has more residents than Bermuda! This means that although it’s a perfect place to relax, the island always has enough going on to find something interesting to do or see.

Although it may not be convenient for non-Colombians to visit San Andrés, it’s absolutely worth the effort. The best way to do it is to spend a week or two in the country and schedule three or four days in this tropical paradise. If you love the Caribbean, then San Andrés is one island you can’t miss!

After my visit to the island came to an end, I hopped on a plane and ended up in my third and final destination on this journey through Colombia: Cartagena! Since this city is also located right on the Caribbean Sea, it wasn’t exactly a world apart from San Andrés. However, Cartagena didn’t have that laid-back vibe that only islands can! To read the final installment in this three-part series and see what Cartagena has to offer, click here [coming soon!]. Thanks for reading and let me know in the comments if you’ve been (or want to go) to San Andrés!

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This post was published on Mar 3, 2019

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Exploring Bohemian Bogotá: A Colombian Adventure Part 1 of 3 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/exploring-bohemian-bogota-a-colombian-adventure-part-1-of-3/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/exploring-bohemian-bogota-a-colombian-adventure-part-1-of-3/#comments Thu, 28 Feb 2019 00:00:21 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=5313 After my visit to the amazing city of Medellín in 2018, I knew that I wanted to return to Colombia to see what more the country had to offer. I finally had the opportunity this month to spend about a week in three different areas: the capital city of Bogotá, the tiny Caribbean island of San Andrés, and the coastal city of Cartagena...

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Exploring Bohemian Bogotá: A Colombian Adventure Part 1 of 3

Published February 28, 2019

After my visit to the amazing city of Medellín in 2018, I knew that I wanted to return to Colombia to see what more the country had to offer. I finally had the opportunity this month to spend about a week in three different areas: the capital city of Bogotá, the tiny Caribbean island of San Andrés, and the coastal city of Cartagena.

Because each of these places is so unique, Colombia has become one of my favorite destination countries, and I already know that I’d come back again to check out even more cities if given the chance (Maybe Barranquilla? Or Cali?). There’s literally something for everyone: cosmopolitan cities with fine dining and museums, outdoors activities of all varieties, beautiful beaches, great nightlife, and more.

Bogotá is a city full of historical attractions, cultural activities, and great hangout spots. The neighborhood of La Candelaria is where most visitors congregate, and it has a Bohemian feeling to it with historical government buildings as well as countless bars and restaurants to explore. There’s also the nearby town of Zipaquirá, which has a very interesting cathedral that is definitely worth the day trip to go see.

In full disclosure, I’m glad my first visit to Colombia was to Medellín and I would recommend going there for your first visit as well. It’s a modern city with a beautiful green landscape where you can feel a sense of innovation and looking towards the future. However, you might find that Bogotá looks more interesting to you! Hopefully my posts covering both cities will give you an idea of which one should be your first stop in this really phenomenal country.

A residential hillside neighborhood in Medellín
Bolivar Square in La Candelaria, Bogotá

Things to Do in the City

Stay in La Candelaria

As I mention above, I think La Candelaria is the best area to stay for anyone visiting Bogotá. There are a bunch of hostels here, although I’m sure there are nicer options as well. The one that I found on Airbnb was super cheap (like $12 per night), but it was also pretty bare bones. For example, they didn’t provide soap, shampoo, or a towel, so if you’re going to go this route, you might want to pack those things just to be safe.

Free walking tour offered by Secretaria Distrital de Cultura, Recreación y Deporte

This is a great way to get an introduction to La Candelaria, and the best part is that it’s free! You’ll learn about Colombia’s struggle for independence, violent past, and , and how buildings and parts of the city reflect this rich history. The tour guides also have a wealth of knowledge on all the best attractions the city has to offer, from interesting neighborhoods to nearby museums.

Go to the office on this corner and ask about when they’re offered (mine was 9:30 a.m.). They give tours in English and Spanish, and our guide did a really good job of telling the stories of the places we saw.

Explore Bolivar Square and the surrounding blocks

Bolivar Square is the first stop on the walking tour, and it’s basically the heart of the city. Within a few block radius of the square, you’ll find government buildings, universities, restaurants, shops, and more. This is a great place to start exploring from, and be sure to check out the interior of the Cathedral of Colombia on the square’s southeast side when it’s open to visitors.

Walk the alley of Carrera 2

This tiny alleyway was probably my favorite street in La Candelaria. On one side, you’ve got the Plazoleta Chorro de Quevedo, where young people gather at all hours of the day and night to engage in and watch street performances and musicians, and on the other, you’ll have a great view overlooking the neighboring district of Santa Fe.

Museo del Oro (Gold Museum)

A number of people recommended checking out a bunch of museums in Bogotá, but with only two full days here and one of them taken up by a day trip to Zipaquirá (more on that below), I only had time to visit the Museo del Oro. I had heard that this was the most impressive museum in the city, and even though I didn’t see the others, I’d totally believe it!

They have an incredible collection of pre-hispanic gold artifacts, including jewelry and accessories, statues, and more. My favorite pieces were the smallest ones, many of which had a stunning amount of detail. Entrance was very affordable (only about a dollar or two), and there was no line to get in. Even if you’re not a museum person, you should set aside an hour or two to check this one out.

Try Some Local Bogotana Food

I ended up eating most if not all of my meals in La Candelaria because there are just so many restaurants to choose from. If you want to try a distinctly local dish, you have to visit La Puerta Falsa. This tiny restaurant founded in 1816 offers both tamales and ajiaco, a special type of chicken stew. I decided to try the tamales along with a hot chocolate that was served with bread and cheese (which sounds random, but I think that’s an another Bogotá tradition).

Two other highly recommended places are Capital Cocina y Café and El Gato Gris. I enjoyed my steak and octopus appetizer from the former and the mushrooms in sauce and seafood pasta I got at El Gato Gris, but both restaurants seemed to have a slightly less local menu than La Puerta Falsa.

Last but not least, don’t be afraid to try one of the many hole-in-the-wall or family owned restaurants in La Candelaria! I ended up at one for my final meal in Bogotá and ordered a random cut of steak with rice and beans, but the meat ended up being super tender and everything was delicious!

Climb the Hill to Monserrate For A Mind-Blowing Sunset

Ok, I have to admit that I saved the best for last. Ask anyone from Bogotá what you should see and they’re bound to mention Monserrate (the last “e” is pronounced, by the way). It’s a hill with a church on top that overlooks the city, and it’s accessible by either funicular (ground cable car), teleférico (suspended cable car), or you can allegedly climb it by foot at certain times of day.

Unfortunately, the teleférico was not working when I visited earlier this month (February 2019), so the only option to get up was the funicular. It took about ten minutes, and once you reach the top, there are a couple of restaurants that looked like they would probably be expensive.

You absolutely should go during sunset, and as any amateur photographer such as myself knows, sunsets are most stunning when there are some low-lying clouds for the light to reflect off. Seeing the city slowly illuminate as the sun went down was definitely the highlight of my visit to Bogotá, and this skyline is undoubtedly one of my all time favorites!

Day Trip to Zipaquirá

This was the one day trip I took from Bogotá, and I really recommend going if you’d like to see a smaller town as well as a bit of the Colombian countryside. The town’s most significant attraction is the Catedral de Sal, a salt mine-turned-cathedral, which is I’ll bet is unlike any church you’ve ever been to.

La Catedral de Sal

From the moment you purchase your ticket and descend down the tunnel into the mine which is 650 feet below ground, the Salt Cathedral is a one-of-a-kind experience. We used the audio tour, which I actually really liked because it provided explanations of everything we saw.

The first thing you’ll see are a series of fourteen crosses arranged in tiny chapels adjacent to the main pathway of the mine. Each cross represents a part of the story of the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus. This is where the audio tour is most helpful; it explains how details, such as lighting, the way the crosses are carved, and the caverns behind some of the crosses represent various aspects of the end of Jesus’s life.

The next part of the Cathedral was my favorite. It’s the actual chapel, complete with church pews, decorations, and annexes. Apparently they actually do hold regular services here, and I would’ve totally loved to hear a choir perform in this incredible space.

At the end of the tour, you’ll find a bunch of souvenir shops, restaurants, and restrooms. You’ll need to head back the way you came, which means you’ll get one last chance to see the fourteen crosses.

Town Square

After you’ve toured the salt cathedral, head into town for lunch before making your way back to Bogotá in the afternoon. There’s a public square that feels a lot like a mini-Bolivar Square, and surrounding it are a bunch of restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops.

A Perfect Jumping Off Point For a Colombian Adventure

I’m really glad that I spent about 2.5 days in Bogotá, which seemed like the perfect amount of time to see the essential attractions. Needless to say, if I had more time here I would’ve liked to explore one or two more museums as well as some other neighborhoods. La Candelaria is great, but a quick glance at the map (or a view of the skyline from Monserrate) reveals how big this city really is. There’s definitely more to explore if you’re spending more than a few days in the capital of Colombia.

I’d also like to extend a huge thank you to my former coworker Ana María and her family, who so graciously helped me organize my time here and who accompanied me on the majority of my excursions here! It was an amazing time and I owe most of my good experiences in Bogotá to their kindness and hospitality!

After my time in the city came to an end, I set off for San Andrés, a tiny Colombian island in the Caribbean Sea that most readers have probably never heard of. That was an incredible experience as well, although it was different in almost every way from the metropolitan capital. Read my blog post about San Andrés here.

Lastly, I spent my final few days of my trip in the tourist haven of Cartagena. Every place I’ve been in Colombia has been spellbinding in its own unique way, and it seems to me that everyone can enjoy what the country has to offer, whether you’re a solo traveler, a spring breaker, or a family. Thanks for reading, and let me know what you think of Bogotá in the comments below!

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This post was published on Feb 28, 2019

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Medellín, Colombia: A Metropolis In The Mountains https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/medellin-colombia-a-metropolis-in-the-mountains/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/medellin-colombia-a-metropolis-in-the-mountains/#comments Fri, 24 Aug 2018 17:00:00 +0000 http://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=2307 About a month ago, I decided to do something kind of crazy and booked a two-day weekend trip to another continent! I came back to work exhausted on Monday thanks to a red-eye flight, but it was totally worth it: I can finally say I’ve been to South America, and I was totally blown away...

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Medellín: A Metropolis In The Mountains

Published August 24, 2018

About a month ago, I decided to do something kind of crazy and booked a two-day weekend trip to another continent! I came back to work exhausted on Monday thanks to a red-eye flight, but it was totally worth it: I can finally say I’ve been to South America, and I was totally blown away by what I found there. I ventured to Medellín, the second-biggest city in Colombia after the capital of Bogotá. Just take a look at this incredible city!

Medellín is truly atmospheric in every sense of the word. The beauty of the city almost feels surreal, and the breathtaking views are impossible to miss because the center of town is located in a valley surrounded by lush mountains in all directions. Most of the buildings are made of brick, which blends in beautifully with the surrounding greenery.

So what is there to do here, you ask? Well, I don’t really have a recommended list of activities. While I’m sure there are fun things to be found in Medellín, I honestly recommend coming with a light schedule (or nothing planned at all, like I did). This will give you the freedom to explore the city at your own pace. There is one activity you have to do before you leave, and I’ll explain exactly how to go about it in a little bit.  Here’s a sneak preview:

First, let’s start with a recommendation for the best neighborhood to stay in.

Find an Airbnb or Hotel in El Poblado

Medellín is a sprawling metropolis with numerous residential areas overlooking the city from steep mountainsides. As such, you’ll have a bunch of options for lodging, but I recommend the neighborhood of El Poblado. It’s an upscale neighborhood that is safe, conveniently located, and packed with cafes, bars, and restaurants.

See if you can find an Airbnb or hotel within a twenty-minute walk of the El Poblado metro station (shown below).

Ride the Metrocable (Cable Car)

This is the one activity every visitor to Medellín should do before leaving! Taking the cable car up the mountain will make you feel like you’re in Europe and the views are even more spectacular from above! From start to finish it will take you about two or three hours depending on how much time you want to spend at the top.

The journey will take you from the Acevedo metro stop to the cable car stop at Parque Arví. From the El Poblado station, Acevedo is about a half-hour ride away on the system’s central blue line which runs north to south. Once you board the cable car at Acevedo, there is a transfer at Santo Domingo (be sure not to get off at Andalucia or Popular). Bring some small bills or coins to purchase the metro tickets (I’m not sure if they accept credit cards).

Image courtesy of Metro de Medellín (click image for link).

It’s important to realize that the cable car from Acevedo to Santo Domingo is a mode of public transportation for local residents. (In fact, the metro and the Metrocable are often given credit for transforming Medellín from a dangerous place in the 1990s to a thriving one by providing affordable transportation and economic opportunity to all residents. You can read more about that fascinating topic here.) You’ll probably be sharing your pod with both tourists and commuters, so I would recommend continuing to keep a low profile even on the Metrocable.

After arriving at the Santo Domingo station, you’ll get off and purchase a second (slightly more expensive) ticket to Parque Arví. This last leg of the journey is clearly more of a tourist attraction, but it offers the best views so don’t skip out if you’ve made it this far!

Once you arrive at Parque Arví, you’ll have to get off and purchase a second ticket to come back down. There is a little market right outside the station, which is a great place to get a little snack or souvenir. When you’re ready to go back, the exact same route will take you back to Acevedo, where you can transfer back to the dark blue metro line.

Notes About the Metro System

You’ll realize this as soon as you take your first metro ride, but because the train is above-ground, it’s actually another great way to get some amazing views of the city. It’s definitely a more scenic mode of transportation than any taxi or Uber drive!

All of these pictures were taken directly from various metro station platforms.

The metro is also modern and safe, although it can be crowded. I wouldn’t recommend pulling out a camera on the train, but if you keep an eye on your pockets and bag you should be fine.

Other Places to See

Parque de Berrío

The other place besides Parque Arví that I recommend checking out is Parque de Berrío and the surrounding area. You’ll get a view of both the Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, a beautiful white church as well as the Coltejer Building, the tallest building in the city.

Cross under the metro though and be sure not to miss the Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe, a stunning piece of architecture surrounded by an interesting and quirky sculpture garden.

The Residential Streets of El Poblado

You should also take an hour or two to explore the residential side streets of El Poblado further up the hill. There are bamboo groves and little streams as well as plants that I’ve never seen before in North America.

I’m no botanist, but much of this neighborhood feels like a fusion between suburbs and rainforests, which is really cool.

There is also one very interesting and famous building located here called Energy Living. You’ll work up a sweat if you walk because it’s high on the hill, but it really is an interesting piece of architecture.

La Comida

I will be upfront and honest and say that food in Medellín wasn’t as impressive as the views. It’s not as spicy or fragrant as Mexican food, but it is quite fresh and filling. With that said, it was still a valuable experience to try some traditional Colombian dishes. There were a few restaurants recommended to me by a coworker (thanks Ana!) which I will be passing on to you. Each restaurant mentioned below has multiple locations throughout the city.

Mondongo's

This was probably the most interesting place I ate at while in Medellín. If you go, you have to order mondongo, which is a traditional tripe soup. As you can see in the picture below, it’s served with some interesting side dishes: banana and avocado. It may sound unusual, but both fruits actually pair really well with the stew! This is definitely a dish for adventurous eaters, but I would recommend it!

I saw this dish on menus at other restaurants as well, but why not try it at the place that’s most famous for it? They have one location right on Calle 10, the main street running through El Poblado. If you happen to live in Miami, I saw online that they also have a location there.

J&C Delicias

You’re likely to end up eating an arepa whether you come to this restaurant or not, as they’re a very common side dish originating in Colombia and Venezuela. J&C Delicias specializes in arepas with toppings, and there are a bunch of different options on their extensive menu. Because arepas are like a flat yet dense bread made from maize flower, the dishes at J&C’s end up a bit like a flatbread.

Mine came with steak and shrimp, which ended up being delicious!

El Rancherito

This was a good restaurant to try another very traditional dish called bandeja paisa. This dish is a specialty of the Paisa Region of Colombia which includes Medellín. The dish includes a huge portion of red beans as well as a bunch of other protein, so save it for when you’re craving a huge meal!

Other Ideas

If none of these restaurants appeal to you, another way to find great cuisine is to just keep an eye out for restaurants that are busy. That is how I ended up at one next to the Palacio de la Cultura, where I had the following dish: parrillada mixta, which means mixed grill. It ended up being really good!

If you’re looking for a drink, consider San Carbón in El Poblado. You could also have a full meal here, but it’s also great for a cocktail and some live music!

And of course, don’t forget to try some coffee and an empanada! This is Colombia, after all!

Logistics

This trip was possible because Aeromexico operates a direct route from Mexico City. The flight took about four hours each way. In order to maximize my time in Medellín, I landed there around 11:00 p.m. on Friday night and departed around 1 a.m. on Monday morning (arriving back to MEX around 5 a.m.). If you live in South Florida, you might be able arrange similar flights, as multiple airlines appear to have direct flights from Fort Lauderdale and Miami. 

Residents of other parts of the United States should still consider Medellín for a four-day weekend or a full vacation. It is beautiful, navigable, and closer than you might think.

You'll also get Colombia's cool multi-color passport stamp!

While I didn’t encounter any dangerous situations here, I did have issues with two Uber drivers. In case you get taken the long way around and end up paying more than you were expecting to, just report it on the app after the trip. If there was an obvious attempt to swindle you, the app will automatically reimburse you the difference (as is the case anywhere).

For this reason, I would also purchase a local SIM card or use roaming data if you can to track the progress of your trips relative to the proposed route. If you are traveling alone, you can also share your trips with friends and family, which will show them your journey in real-time.

This is probably the route you should be taking from the airport (east) to El Poblado (west). 71,000 COP is roughly 25 USD and the ride should be about 40 minutes.

Other than this little hiccup, the trip was a success and I can’t wait to go back to Colombia! At various points during my trip, I was reminded of a bunch of other cities I’ve been to, but the overall vibe of Medellín is truly unique. I fully recommend taking the plunge and seeing for yourself why Colombia is the latest craze to sweep the travel world!

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This post was published on Aug 24, 2018

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