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How To Travel To Cuba As An American: Tips For A Successful Journey

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 31 May 2018 17:00:00 +0000

How To Travel To Cuba As An American: Tips For A Successful Journey

Published May 31, 2018

This post will explain how to plan a successful trip to Havana, Cuba without a tour package. It is written with Americans in mind and will address the travel restrictions we face as of May 2018. Keep in mind that rules may change in the future; be sure to research adequately to make sure you are complying with both American and Cuban law. If the idea of traveling to Cuba is appealing but you need some additional inspiration, check out this post here.

First of all, know that many, many Americans have traveled to Cuba in 2017 and 2018 (around 100,000 in 2017 according to one source). All major US airline companies currently operate direct flights from American cities to Havana. When I learned that there is a daily route between Charlotte and Havana for about $340 round-trip, the opportunity was too good to pass up.

There are still restrictions, and I’ll walk you through the steps I took to account for these. This isn’t the only way to do it, but it worked for me and seems to be a common pathway for Americans to enter the country. If you’re curious, skip directly to these topics: internet in Havana, Cuba’s dual-currency system, and safety.

Planning Your Trip

Select Your Reason For Travel

Current rules state that you need to report the reason for your trip, since traveling to Cuba for tourism is off-limits. Read through the full list of choices. I recommend selecting “Support for the Cuban People.” Choosing this option will allow you to travel independently and requires that you build an itinerary that puts money into the hands of private business owners and strengthens civil society. More on this below.

Book Your Flight

Book your flight online like you normally would and choose “Support for the Cuban People” from a drop-down list on the airline’s website.

Apply for Your Visa (Tarjeta Del Turista)

In order to pass Cuban immigration, you need to provide a filled-out “tarjeta del tourista” to the customs officer. Prices differ by airline, and the visas can be purchased at the airport (at least in Charlotte and Miami), but you’ll save a few dollars if you order by mail. If you’re flying on American Airlines, you can purchase the card here for $85.

Download the Restricted List

I recommend printing out this list and bringing it with you. It’s a list of businesses (including hotels) that the US government asks you not to patronize. Just be aware.

Book Your Airbnb and Plan Your Activities

Let’s talk about what it actually means to support the Cuban people. Two easy ways to do this are by staying in an Airbnb (otherwise called a casa particular, or locally-owned guest house) and eating in local paladares, which are privately-owned restaurants. You can either look up paladares beforehand or ask your Airbnb hosts for recommendations.

Other than that, you need to make an effort to support local businesses and civil society. Visit some museums (like the Museo de la Revolución pictured below), shop at craft and souvenir markets, and sit down and talk to people about what life is like in Havana. Classes and tours are another great option, and Airbnb has a ton of activities to choose from.

For the exact letter of the law, read here. Other travel bloggers have posited that it is intentionally vague and open-ended, so use your best judgement and follow the guidelines given. I wasn’t asked to provide an itinerary beforehand, but it’s possible that you may be audited within 5 years of your visit. Collect receipts of your transactions and document your activities to prove that you were actually supporting local people.

Go Through Immigration

I wasn’t asked any questions about my trip as I passed through customs in José Martí International Airport in Havana. I’ve read other blogs saying that Cuban immigration doesn’t stamp US passports, but I got an entrance stamp. Even as I returned to the US, I was only asked how long I was in Cuba. It was honestly a very typical customs experience both for departure and return.

Other Considerations

Cash and Currency

Know that American credit and debit cards won’t work in Cuba. Therefore, you’ll want to bring more cash than you anticipate needing just in case of emergency. I brought $900 for four days and ended up using about $450 of that. If you can get ahold of either Euros or Canadian dollars at a favorable rate (i.e., not at an airport currency exchange), bring them to Cuba. Exchanging USD while in Cuba incurs a 10% penalty that isn’t subject to other currencies.

It may sound unsafe to bring this much cash with you, but it didn’t cause any issue for me (and you don’t have many other alternatives). Just be sure not to keep all of it on your person at one time and you should be okay.

Where to Exchange

I was told that it is beneficial to exchange currency at banks in downtown Havana as opposed to the airport, but I’m not sure if this made much of a difference. If your taxi driver is willing to accept USD for the fare, consider exchanging at a bank in town, but be aware that they tend to close early in the afternoon and are probably not going to be open on Sundays.

Currency

Interestingly, Cuba uses two different currencies. Be aware of the difference to avoid being ripped off!

The Cuban convertible peso (CUC, often pronounced “kook”) is the currency you’ll likely be dealing with. It’s pegged to the USD, but because of exchange fees (and that 10% penalty) it’s technically worth more like 85 cents. When you exchange currency, you should ask for these.

The other currency is the Cuban peso (CUP, sometimes pronounced “koop”). One CUP is equivalent to 1/25th of a CUC, or roughly 4 cents. It is sufficient to know that this currency is the one with which locals tend to buy staples and daily goods, and you’re unlikely to see it as much.

Now here’s where you might get ripped off if you are unaware of this dual system. Suppose you purchase something that costs 10 CUC. You hand over a 20 CUC bill and expect a 10 CUC bill in return. Instead, the vendor hands you a 10 CUP bill hoping you don’t recognize the difference. They’ve basically given you 40 cents in change! So it’s worth being able to recognize both sets of currency to call out anyone who hands you incorrect change. Take a look at the picture below:

An easy way to remember: you shouldn’t be getting any bills with people on the front. If you’re still not sure, your change should have “pesos convertibles” printed in the center. (On a side note, that three-CUC bill ended up being more practical than I would have guessed!)

Internet Access

Internet access is quite hard to come by here. Roaming charges will cost you a fortune and I am not sure if Cuban SIM cards even offer mobile data. I suggest that you let friends and family know beforehand that you’ll basically be off the grid in Cuba.

At least in Havana, WiFi is offered in a number of places including hotel lobbies and some bars and restaurants. In order to login, you’ll need to purchase a WiFi access card, which won’t necessarily be sold in every business that offers WiFi. Your Airbnb host should know the closest location that sells the cards, which cost 2 CUC each and look like this:

As you can see, each card only offers one hour of internet access, but it can be used in any location with public WiFi (i.e., it’s not limited to the location where you bought the card). Enter both the username (usuario) and password (clave), and the clock starts ticking once you connect. What’s nice is that if you are only logged in for 15 minutes for example, you still have 45 minutes left on that card. Depending on the location, internet speed generally wasn’t great, and sometimes it would randomly disconnect.

This may be inconvenient, but it’s honestly part of the experience. Check in once or twice a day, and don’t let your quest for WiFi distract from all the amazing things to do in Havana! Read about why I think being forced to disconnect is a good thing for visitors here.

Taxis

As you might imagine, the lack of internet means that rideshare companies don’t operate here. You’ll have to hail a cab the old-fashioned way, but you may get to ride in a very old vehicle which is quite an experience. A cab from the airport into town or vice versa should cost around 25 CUC.

Safety

Havana (especially Havana Vieja) may not look like your typical American town or suburb, which makes it a great place to challenge the assumptions we hold about safety. In other words, the city is not necessarily dangerous just because parts of it look pretty old. Even as a visitor with a camera around my neck and a smartphone in my pocket, I was never hassled or bothered and never felt unsafe. This was even true late at night near my Airbnb and while walking through local neighborhoods near the Colon Cemetery.

As always, you should exercise common sense and avoid situations that invite unnecessary risk. But if you do some research, I think you’ll find that the risk of serious violent crime is significantly lower here than in other countries that continue to receive millions of American tourists each year.

Language

Because American visitors have historically been rare, locals may not be able to speak English as well as in other places. Learn some survival Spanish and use it as an opportunity to improve your language skills! One helpful tip: download Spanish on the Google Translate mobile app before you arrive. For some reason, it wouldn’t download on Cuban WiFi, and would have come in handy numerous times on my trip.

So there you have it! If you have any questions I didn’t address, feel free to leave a comment below and I will answer it as best I can! Good luck and have an amazing trip!

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This post was published on May 31, 2018

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post How To Travel To Cuba As An American: Tips For A Successful Journey appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

4 Lessons I Learned As a Solo Traveler In Cuba: A Photo Journal

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 30 May 2018 17:00:00 +0000

4 Lessons I Learned As a Solo Traveler In Cuba

Published May 30, 2018

Allow me to start off by metaphorically shouting from the rooftops: Cuba is an amazing country that you absolutely can (and should) venture to this year! I decided to go for Memorial Day weekend and am so glad I did. I stayed in Havana the whole time, which was a great place for solo travelers, but I’m hoping I can come back, visit some smaller towns, and convince some friends to go next time to share in the experience.

Since Havana is a unique destination that requires a bit of planning, I’ve decided to write two separate posts about it: this one, which hopefully inspires you to visit, and another that explains how to plan a successful trip (with a focus on American passport holders). If you already know you want to go, you can read that other post here.

Readers who are familiar with the blog will know that I typically organize my posts around the best attractions a city has to offer, but in this case, I’ll focus on four central themes that reflect what Havana is all about. Each theme will feature a handful of photos, and I’ll expand on the stories they tell. So grab a mojito or a café cubano and let’s jump right in!

I. North America is not a monolith.

You don’t have to leave the continent in order to find a completely different world.

I really started to get this sense after traveling to North American countries like Mexico and the Turks and Caicos Islands, but Cuba takes it to a whole new level. I think we Americans tend to get in the mindset that we have to travel to Europe, Asia, or beyond in order to really get the full experience of being “abroad.” But Cuba shatters that myth. If you believe culture shock is something to embraced rather than avoided, then you definitely need to consider this island nation located merely 90 miles south of Key West, FL. Furthermore, Cuba’s rich cultural blend of African, European, and Latin traditions make it feel like it might as well be a continent away.

As you can see, buildings in Havana have these beautiful, brightly-colored street-facing façades with ornate balconies. They may look old, but they play a key role in the community. At least in Havana Vieja, the “old town” of Havana, Cuban life thrives on these balconies. If you stay in Havana Vieja and your room is not on street level, you will almost be guaranteed to have one of your own; step out onto it and people-watch for a few minutes.

When I did, I noticed that many of the balconies were occupied with people sitting, knitting, reading, playing cards, etc. I realized that conversations weren’t confined to one floor or even one building; someone on the street would shout up to someone on a third or fourth-floor balcony and a reply was shouted back down. The entire conversation would go on like that until the person below continued on their way.

My favorite memory of the balconies features some schoolkids and a little old abuela up above. The kids would run up to the apartment building, ring a doorbell on street level, and the woman would appear on her fifth-floor balcony. A metal bucket on a string cascaded from her balcony down to the kids who would place a few pesos in the bucket. Within a few seconds, the bucket was reeled back up, and down it was sent again. The kids would reach in to discover what looked like home-made popsicles!

What made this even more endearing is that she didn’t have a sign or anything to advertise her ice cream for sale. You had to be in the know, and clearly there was a well-established system in place. After all, why use stairs when you can exchange words and items from right outside your living room?

The insides of buildings can also make Havana feel like another time and place. You will notice a lot of urban decay while exploring the city, but some of the city’s most historic landmarks are being restored, as evidenced by the scaffolding in this beautiful hall in the Presidential Palace (which currently houses the Museo de la Revolución).

And then there’s the cars. It’s true that a huge portion of cars on the roads of Havana are these 1940s, 50s, and 60s models that have been outfitted with new engines and other replacement parts. What started out as a response to embargoes over fifty years ago is now a famous tourist attraction. Many of these cars are actually taxis, so be sure to take one if you can! Riding through the city streets in a decades-old vehicle is a lot of fun!

Even businesses in Cuba looks different than their American counterparts. Many stores and food markets that cater to local residents like this one pictured above look quite barren compared to grocery stores or restaurants in the US; without a modern history of capitalism, Cuban businesses didn’t have as much of a need to dress up their establishments with fancy decorations, and that legacy is still very clear today.

II. Music matters.

Listening and participating are integral parts of the Havana experience.

It’s no surprise that Cuba has inspired musicians across the ages, from 20th century classical and jazz composer George Gershwin to current-day pop star Camila Cabello. The beats and rhythms of Cuban music are infectious and uplifting. Leave your earbuds at home and immerse yourself in the symphony that surrounds you in Havana!

Live music is impossible to avoid here. You’ll hear it in restaurants, bars, and on the streets. Even while walking along the city’s shoreline, you’re bound to run into musicians like this trombonist pictured above.

A band strolls leisurely by in front of the Morro Castle lighthouse.

Cabaret dancers strike a final pose at the end of a number.

A violinist steps outside onto the balcony of a bar to warm up for the next song her band is about to play inside.

Last but not least, this ended up being my favorite musical experience in Havana precisely because I got to participate. On my last night in the city, I ended up eating dinner at a random paladar near Calle Obispo, where this band pictured above was performing. Since dinner is eaten quite late in much of the Latin world, the restaurant was almost empty when I arrived, so the main singer invited me to dance while I waited for my food. She then handed me her maracas and had me play for a song or two. It was a great experience to be welcomed into their band so quickly!

After that, I informed them that I know how to play the violin, so the guy with the fiddle handed me his instrument. The only question was: what would we play? I didn’t know any Cuban songs, and I wasn’t sure what songs they might be familiar with. We landed on a compromise, a Latin song that every American knows: Despacito! It was so much fun to pick up the violin and just play in such a carefree environment, and the whole experience of being invited to perform with them really exemplified the friendliness that Cuban people are famous for.

Do you recognize this bridge from another Spanish pop song they performed that night?

III. Embrace the lack of internet.

You’ll make more friends here if you do.

As I describe in my other post, internet in Havana is still extremely limited. Although you probably should login to WiFi once or twice to let family and friends know you arrived safely, I highly suggest you make peace with the fact that you’ll basically be disconnected in Cuba.

A smartphone is much less distracting in airplane mode, which helped me engage more fully with the sights and sounds of Havana. That’s reason enough to embrace going off the grid, but I am convinced that the lack of internet also encourages everyone to be more outgoing. It is surprisingly easy to meet both locals and other travelers in Havana and to have meaningful experiences with people you’ve only known for a few hours or less.

This is especially the case in bars and restaurants. Americans should eat in privately-owned restaurants called paladares not only to help local business owners, but also because they are a great place to meet travelers from all over the world. Pictured below is a plate of ropa vieja (traditional Cuban dish of shredded beef) that I ordered at a paladar on Paseo de Martí.

When I arrived, there was only one other guest in the restaurant. I struck up a conversation with him and learned that his name was Tiago and he was from Portugal. I had a good time discussing my recent trip to Lisbon with him as well as our impressions of Havana. At the end of the meal we parted ways, but it was a great conversation that was refreshingly uninterrupted by messages, notifications, and social media.

Another great time to meet travelers and locals is during breakfast in your casa particular (or Airbnb). As you can see above, the breakfast that was served in my casa was fresh and appetizing (and cheap: only $5 including an omelet and ham not shown). Each morning, I got to chat with the owner of my Airbnb, his employees who prepared breakfast, and two other guests from Brazil. Since I saw all of these people every morning, it was easy to really connect with them and follow up on how their previous day went.

So that covers restaurants; let’s talk about bars. There are a lot of great bars throughout Havana, but probably the most famous one is El Floridita. It was a favorite hangout spot of Ernest Hemingway and their speciality is daiquiris (go for a regular or fruit-flavored one; the “Hemmingway daiquiri” is really bitter and honestly nasty).

As it turns out, this was another prime location to make some new friends. There were clearly tourists from all over the world crowding inside, and I ended up talking to a couple seated next to me who were visiting from New Jersey. We hit it off, bonded over how bad the Hemingway daiquiris were, and ultimately decided to explore on foot together for the rest of the afternoon.

From El Floridita, we walked three or four miles inland and eventually ended up at the Cementerio de Cristóbal Colón (Colon Cemetery), which brought us through some truly local neighborhoods and suburbs. Along the way, we passed by the José Martí Memorial pictured above.

By the time we reached the cemetery, we were exhausted and all agreed that cabs back to our Airbnbs and a few hours of rest were sorely needed. The two of them asked if I was interested in meeting up for dinner later, and I said sure! We agreed on a time and a restaurant, but without working phones, there was no guarantee that we’d successfully meet up. At dinner time, I made it to the restaurant early, waited, and…

They ended up making it too! Can you believe a bunch of millennials successfully met up without working phones? It was quite an accomplishment! I ran into my Brazilian housemates at the casa and invited them as well, which is why we ended up with a group of five. The place was called La Bodeguita del Medio, another famous bar/restaurant that’s known for their mojitos. I ordered the lobster, which was really tasty and only $22.

As you can see, Cuba’s current lack of internet connectivity makes it an especially good place to meet like-minded travelers. It’s important to recognize that locals don’t have affordable access to the wealth of online information and opportunities that we take for granted, but this is the reality of life in Cuba for now. For visitors like me who spend hours each day in front of screens, Havana can be a breath of fresh air. Go (almost) cold turkey, strike up a conversation with a stranger, and enjoy everything Havana has to offer!

IV. This is the Caribbean.

You might encounter a tropical storm, but this doesn’t have to ruin your trip.

If you’re unlucky, a tropical storm may pass over Cuba during your trip. And when it rains here, it pours. Bring an umbrella from home if rain is on the forecast (as they are a bit hard to come by in local shops), and be aware that hurricane season is June to November.

The downpours never lasted more than a few minutes, so I ended up exploring quite a bit of the city on foot in between rain spells. Under cloudy skies, cars speed by on the Malecón (Havana’s main oceanfront drive) between La Habana Vieja in the east and newer resorts and apartments in the west, pictured above.

However, even though the forecast predicted rain and clouds for my entire trip, it wasn’t entirely accurate (and the weather here can change in an instant). Thankfully, I got one full day of sun! An extra bottle of sunscreen is never a bad idea, no matter how rainy the weather is predicted to be.

And of course, when there are clouds, there’s bound to be a silver lining (or a rainbow).

Low-lying rain clouds can also make for some amazing sunsets. Rooftop bars and balconies are the best places to try and catch one.

I’ve been on quite a few weekend trips this year, but I must say that so far Havana has been my favorite. It’s not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced traveler, but if you’re willing to give it a try, you’ll come away with a unique experience that you will remember vividly for the rest of your life. You’ll probably also be antsy to go back soon; I know I am!

If you’re an American citizen and I’ve convinced you to go (or at least consider it), there are a number of things you need to know before you hop on that plane. From applying for a visa to choosing US government-approved lodging options, I explain it all right here. If you’re not a US citizen, some of the information in my other blog post may be relevant to you, but you probably are fortunate enough not to be subject to the restrictions I describe there. Whether you’re from New York, São Paulo, or a small town in heartland, you will definitely leave “half of your heart” in Havana!

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This post was published on May 30, 2018

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post 4 Lessons I Learned As a Solo Traveler In Cuba: A Photo Journal appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Cuba Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

How To Travel To Cuba As An American: Tips For A Successful Journey

Planning Your Trip

Select Your Reason For Travel

Book Your Flight

Apply for Your Visa (Tarjeta Del Turista)

Download the Restricted List

Book Your Airbnb and Plan Your Activities

Go Through Immigration

Other Considerations

Cash and Currency

Where to Exchange

Currency

Internet Access

Taxis

Safety

Language

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4 Lessons I Learned As a Solo Traveler In Cuba: A Photo Journal

I. North America is not a monolith.

You don’t have to leave the continent in order to find a completely different world.

II. Music matters.

Listening and participating are integral parts of the Havana experience.

III. Embrace the lack of internet.

You’ll make more friends here if you do.

IV. This is the Caribbean.

You might encounter a tropical storm, but this doesn’t have to ruin your trip.

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

Recent Posts

Meet Your Caffeinated Blogger: Kevin!

Where I Am Now

Categories

Where I’ve Been

Upcoming Trips

Archives

Click To Follow!

Support the Blog!

Subscribe Via Email

Meta