Cunha Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 15 Aug 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas

Published August 15, 2020

If you’ve decided to visit the small town of Cunha in the Brazilian state of São Paulo, congratulations: you’re in for a treat! This small town offers stunning views and a relaxing getaway from the two nearby cities of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro (both within a 4 hour drive away).

While Cunha itself is incredibly picturesque, there honestly isn’t much to do in town. You’ll want to give yourself a day or two to appreciate the atmosphere, but most of the activities in Cunha will involve day trips further into the countryside. If you’re interested in learning about what makes the town of Cunha so special, click or tap the image below!

In this post, I’ll feature five day trip options: a lavender farm, a couple of waterfalls, an even smaller town nearby, a hike, and a massive church (one of the largest in the world, in fact). At the end, I’ll provide some tips about how to get around and which day trip I recommend most. Let’s go!

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1. O Lavandário

The first day trip I’ll mention is O Lavandário, a modest lavender farm a couple of kilometers south of Cunha. This is probably the easiest day trip to do, and will only take an hour or two.

This farm has a footpath that forms a small loop, some greenhouses, and a souvenir shop. Compared to other lavender fields on Instagram with rows of flowers as far as the eye can see, O Lavandário is admittedly a bit small.

Although the fields aren’t exactly sprawling, O Lavandário more than makes up for this with its stunning views. The farm is situated atop a pretty large hill that offers an incredible panoramic view to the north and northwest.

As of August 2020, it costs 15 BRL per person to get in. Also, check the operating hours on the website before you take the taxi ride out there: O Lavandário wasn’t open every day. This is perhaps because it’s low season right now, plus the pandemic may have further reduced hours.

Stop for lunch or a beer on the way back

On the way back into town, you’ll pass by a brewery called Cervejaria Caminho do Ouro. It’s hard to miss because it’s a pretty large building right next to the road and there’s nothing else nearby.

This is the perfect place to stop for a hearty lunch or a beer if you’ve already eaten. The food was a bit expensive given that it’s clearly aimed at attracting tourists, but the steak I got there was delicious nonetheless. They also sell bottled beer in addition to brews on tap.

2. A Pair of Waterfalls

This day trip will bring you out to a couple of waterfalls to the east of town. Unlike the trip to O Lavandário, the drive to the falls will bring you down a windy dirt road. Although both trips are roughly the same distance away, getting to the waterfalls takes almost 40 minutes, while Cunha to O Lavandário is only a 20-minute drive.

Cachoeira do Pimenta

The main attraction out here is Cachoeira do Pimenta (which means “Pepper Waterfall”). The view from the bottom is nice enough, but the more impressive falls are found a little further upstream. This is what it looks like near the parking lot.

On the right side is a dirt trail going up the hill. If you’re willing and able to go up, you’ll see a larger basin with a slightly more interesting and picturesque cascade.

The short trail from the middle to the top was pretty overgrown, but at least there was a wooden railing to hold on to. At the top, you’ll find this.

I personally like the middle portion most, but if you go up further, you’ll get a better view looking down. Just be careful: there aren’t any lifeguards here to make sure you don’t fall in. None of the falls seem big enough to be deadly, but a slip could obviously result in injury.

Cachoeira do Desterro

Visiting Cachoeira do Desterro (“Exile Waterfall”) is a bit more adventurous. The entrance is gated, and you have to walk a little ways further to get to it. It honestly sort of felt like we were trespassing onto private property, but no one told us to leave. Since getting to this waterfall is a bit odd, I would just check with your driver to confirm that they’re fine with going.

I think this one is most pretty when viewed from the bottom looking up, and luckily there’s a little path that will take you down.

A Shiitake Farm

One unexpected thing about Cunha is that it’s home to a number of shiitake mushroom farms. A lot of the upper-scale restaurants in town will offer mushroom appetizers, and all the ones I ordered were quite good.

One of these farms, Suzana Shiitake, is pretty close to both waterfalls. I wanted to check it out, but unfortunately it was closed due to COVID-19. I’m not completely sure if they offer a full restaurant service or if it’s just a place where you can buy the mushrooms, but it could be interesting to visit once they reopen. Leave a comment and let me know if you get to experience it!

3. Go Even Further Off the Grid...

This day trip is probably the most unusual, but I recommend it for adventurous travelers. If you look at a map of Cunha, you’ll see that a little winding road extends about 30 kilometers northeast to a little village called Campos de Cunha. The word “campos” in Portuguese means “fields,” but it is a bit more synonymous with the English “countryside,” so the town’s name basically means “Cunha Countryside.”

This name is apt for this tiny town of only about 3,500 residents, compared to over 20,000 in Cunha proper. Consisting of only about three main streets, Campos Novos is the place to go if you want a glimpse into truly rural life in the area.

The only real attraction I found here was another waterfall called Cachoeira do Mato Dentro. I decided to walk, which took about half an hour each way. I would maybe recommend just asking your taxi driver to take you out there, because it would only be about five minutes by car. The waterfall was nice enough, but not as impressive as the other two mentioned above.

Beyond that, there was honestly nothing to do in Campos de Cunha. I spent about five hours here, exploring every street and walking along each dirt road snaking out from the town center to admire the views. However, I was ready to leave after about three hours.

There was only a single restaurant in town that appeared open for lunch: Restaurante da Família, a grungy yet endearing place with a wild west saloon-vibe that actually made a pretty good plate of chicken over rice.

Perhaps the best reason to go out to Campos Novos is that the drive out there is so beautiful. All of the day trips here include very scenic drives with stunning views, but this one is undoubtedly the best. In addition, the road is paved the entire way and is in great condition, so it’ll be smooth and comfortable. In fact, it felt like this road was constructed on the top of a mountain ridge, because there were incredible views out of both sides of the car almost the entire way.

4. Go For a Hike at Pedra da Macela

If you’re interested in going for a hike, head on out to Pedra da Macela. In all honesty, I made this stop as I was moving from Cunha to Paraty; if you’re traveling between the two towns, you could stop here as it’s about halfway between them.

Your driver will have to stop and wait for you at this tiny parking lot because a gate prevents cars from going further up the mountain. From here, you’ll have to walk about 1.4 miles uphill to reach the peak. It was definitely a workout for me seeing as I haven’t hiked in months. The path is paved though, and you’ll basically be surrounded by forest the entire time.

Even though the hike up is tiring, I can basically guarantee that the view from the top will reinvigorate you. Just check out these shots!

The focal point of this panorama is the Pedra Macela (which means “Macela Stone”), a barren rocky structure with three peaks jutting out from the otherwise green mountains. Off in the distance you can see hills and coastlines for miles, and if you look to the southeast, you’ll see the town of Paraty. Pedra da Macela is less than 20 miles from Cunha, yet in that very short distance, the change in landscape couldn’t be more dramatic.

My one warning about this trip is that the dirt road that you have to take from the main road out to the trailhead is pretty bumpy. If you get carsick easily like I do, just keep that in mind. You’ll probably also want to bring a bottle of water with you.

5. Aparecida, Home of the Second Largest Church in the World

Last but not least, the last day trip option from Cunha is to a town about an hour away by car called Aparecida. This little town has historical significance because it happens to be home to the second-largest church in the world.

In fact, I think Aparecida has enough to see and do that it’s worth a couple days’ visit for those who have the time. If not, the church can be seen in a single day, but you’ll want to probably leave in the morning and aim to be back in Cunha around dinner to give yourself enough time not to feel rushed. To learn more about the town of Aparecida, click here. To read all about the truly incredible cathedral, click the image link below!

Is Guaratinguetá worth a visit?

If you’re looking at a map of the region, you’ll see that there’s another larger city next to Aparecida called Guaratinguetá. If you’re wondering if this would make a good day trip, my honest answer is no, I don’t really think so. I spent one afternoon walking around the center and honestly couldn’t find anything to do. This may have been due to COVID-19, but I just got the vibe that there was little of interest; in fact, it even felt a tiny bit less safe than neighboring Aparecida.

This was just my first impression after exploring on foot for an hour or two. Perhaps there is more to see and do on the other side of the river that divides Guaratinguetá in two, but I’d say that you’re much better off seeing the cathedral in Aparecida than spending a day in this neighboring city.

Additional Info

How should you get around?

As someone who loves exploring on foot, let me first say that unfortunately, none of these trips are really close enough to walk from Cunha. Even if you’re willing to do a long hike to get to one of them, I don’t recommend it. That’s because you won’t have cell service and there is nowhere along the way to stop for food, a bathroom, or anything else you might need.

With that in mind, your only real option is to hire a taxi. Since Uber doesn’t operate in Cunha (as of August 2020), you’ll have to ask your hotel, accommodation, or Airbnb host to refer you to a local driver.

The prices may seem a bit steep (between 100 and 150 BRL per day trip mentioned here). That’s because for all of them except Aparecida, your driver will have to wait for you, so they’ll basically be “on the clock” for multiple hours. Even if Uber does eventually operate here, I wouldn’t recommend using them because you could end up stranded with no cell service and no driver to bring you back into town. To go to Aparecida, you can hire a taxi from Cunha to take you there and use Uber to return. Expect to pay about 80 BRL each way.

Where should you stay?

Cunha seems to have a lot of guesthouses (called “pousadas”) out in the countryside, but I’d recommend staying in the town center. I almost always use Airbnb to book long-term rentals, and I found a cozy little studio on the south edge of town for a great price. The best part by far was the balcony, which offered a stunning view of the sunset over a little valley to the west every night.

Which day trip do I recommend most?

Most visitors to Cunha will probably only stay for a couple days, so you may not have time to see everything listed here. If you have to choose just one, I’d say go with O Lavandário. It’s quick and easy, and the views can’t be beat.

Cunha: An Amazing Small Town

Cunha is a great example of why I love small-town travel so much. It’s unlike any other place I’ve been since I started blogging in 2018, but after just one or two days it already started to feel like home.

No matter which day trip you decide to do, you’ll be treated to amazing views as you ride along the country roads. And as you can see from this post, there is an incredible variety of terrains, from forests to fields and valleys to more jagged peaks off in the distance.

If you have any questions about any of these day trip options, leave a comment below! I always love hearing from readers, especially if they were able to use my blog as a resource. Be sure not to miss my other post about Cunha town if you haven’t read it already! Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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This post was published on Aug 15, 2020

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

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The post Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 06 Aug 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha,
A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Published August 6, 2020

I’m of the opinion that we travelers haven’t fully experienced a country, state, or province until we’ve seen both its urban centers and its rural districts. This is especially true of São Paulo, Brazil: the city itself and the surrounding countryside are two completely separate worlds. If you’re interested in visiting South America’s largest metropolitan area and you plan on staying more than a week, I highly recommend spending some time outside city limits.

Although there are dozens of interesting towns and cities within a three-hour driving radius of São Paulo, Cunha (pronounced “Kun-ya” or “Cuña”) is perhaps my favorite I’ve been to so far. This little village of only 22,000 residents is surrounded by rolling hills on all sides, and its best feature is undoubtedly its jaw-dropping landscape. Another interesting thing about this region is its similarity to the American West, complete with locals wearing cowboy hats and the occasional person going about their business on horseback.

In this post, I’ll feature some of the highlights of Cunha’s town center. Many of the nearby attractions require an afternoon or day trip further into the countryside, so I’ll dedicate another post to those activities, which you can check out here! Otherwise, read on to learn about the town of Cunha’s points of interest!

Magnificent Views

If your idea of a perfect vacation is spending hours a day exploring on foot and taking pictures, then Cunha is the destination for you! As you can probably tell already, the town is very hilly, so keep that in mind. However, the valleys make for some amazing panoramic views and many vantage points offer miles of visibility.

Mountains

One of the main reasons Cunha is so beautiful is because it’s surrounded by hills on all sides. There is an incredible variety in the topography, with some sections being covered by forests and others with wide open fields. Since logging appears to be a major industry here, I can’t claim that the landscapes are completely “natural,” but they are still breathtaking regardless.

Architecture

Although the mountains surrounding Cunha are incredible, the other piece of the puzzle is the town’s traditional architecture. Specifically, the houses have an almost-European style to them, and many of them have beautiful pastel colors and iconic red tile rooftops. From a distance, a cluster of houses on a hillside come together to form a burst of yellows, blues, pinks, and reds that stand out against the duller browns and greens of the terrain.

Where to see the best views

In my opinion, some of the best views can be seen from this little section of Road 459 (on the southern end of town looking north), from the northern end of Rua Alcides Barbeta that turns into Rua Sete, and from Alameda Francisco da Cunha Menezes (a view of the ranches directly to the north and northeast of town). However, this is definitely not an exhaustive list!

Old VW Beetles

A blog post about Cunha wouldn’t be complete without a mention of arguably the city’s most unique cultural icon: old-school Volkswagen beetles! According to one article, there are about 1,300 VW vehicles in the city (one for every 17 residents).

You can’t really walk for more than a few minutes without crossing paths with one, and in the vast majority of cases, they look pretty old (on the order of decades). The article mentioned above claims that there is no verifiable reason this particular car is so popular here, but it suggests that perhaps the car’s durability makes it ideal for the steep inclines in the city as well as the dirt roads surrounding the town.

You’ll also notice that Cunha has dozens if not hundreds of small auto repair shops. Given how old all the cars seem to be here, it makes sense that they would all need constant maintenance!

Churches

Cunha has three prominent churches: the Igreja do Rosário e São Benedito, the Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, and the Igreja Metodista Central em Cunha. They are all pretty standard as far as Brazilian churches go. Nonetheless, I always like checking out churches when I’m traveling, especially in small towns.

Igreja do Rosário e São Benedito

Luckily, all three churches in town are within just a ten or fifteen minute walk of each other. This one, located furthest north, is clearly the oldest. I would’ve loved to see its interior, but it was never open to visitors whenever I walked by.

Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição

This church located in the main town square serves as a center point for Cunha. It is usually open for visitors during the day, but unfortunately the altar had a bunch of scaffolding on it, so my pictures of the inside aren’t great.

Also known as the “Mother Church,” this memorable yellow, blue, and white structure is surrounded by restaurants, cafes, and shops on all sides. It’s basically impossible to miss.

Igreja Metodista Central em Cunha

Only a short walk south of the main town square, this church doesn’t appear to be nearly as old as the two mentioned above, but I still enjoy its simple yet elegant architecture.

The Town Market

While you’re in the center of town, be sure to visit the Mercado Municipal de Cunha. They offer fresh produce, honey, cachaça (a Brazilian spirit used to make caipirinhas), souvenirs, and fresh fish. I’m willing to bet that you won’t leave empty-handed even if you only go in to browse!

Restaurants

Restaurants in Cunha offer excellent home-style traditional Brazilian fare. It is hard to go wrong, but here are some of the places I liked most.

Restaurante Casarão

This was one of my favorite places because it offered Brazilian dishes like rice and beans, roast chicken, and other treats. Casarão also has a huge salad bar, so I would always go whenever I felt like I needed a big serving of veggies.

Restaurante Dona Dita

This restaurant offered a combo lunch for a great price of only 15 BRL (approx. 3 USD as of August 2020). Dona Dita is both delicious and budget-friendly.

Restaurante Jeca Grill

At a price of only 12 BRL for a full plate of food, Jeca Grill offers even more bang for your buck than Dona Dita. If you choose to dine in, there is a semi-outdoor seating area in the back that was well-ventilated and well-lit.

Quintal da Cau

Unlike the three restaurants mentioned above, Quintal da Cau is a few blocks away from the main square. It also offers a lunch combo for a similar price (15 BRL), and the chicken I got there was so tender and juicy! This eatery is located at the bottom of a hill, but the delicious food and good service are worth the short leg workout.

Veríssima Bistrô

On the southern edge of town is Veríssima, which has a very classy ambiance and a semi-outdoor dining room. I decided to try a passion fruit cocktail, appetizer of locally-grown mushrooms, and a portafoglio de mignon with brie cheese, which was two thinly sliced pieces of beef with cheese inside, lightly fried. Everything was excellent; if you want to splurge a bit (approx. 25 USD per person), this is the place to go.

Bar Reale

This bar is associated with a brewery in town of the same name. Housed in the same location as another restaurant called Il Pumo, Bar Reale has a unique vibe as well as a very friendly owner. It’s a bit pricey, but definitely one of the higher-end places near the main square.

Bethlehem Cozinha Artesanal

I have to admit, I was intrigued by this restaurant’s unique name (Bethlehem Artisanal Kitchen). Located on the western edge of town, Bethlehem is also a bit of a splurge (approx. 20 to 25 USD per person), but everything I ordered was excellent. I decided to try a cold vegetable soup appetizer that was very refreshing followed by a filet mignon smothered in house sauce served with risotto de alho poró. The sauce had just a hint of sweetness to it that balanced all the flavors of this rich meal perfectly.

The other interesting thing about Bethlehem Artisanal Kitchen is its beautiful main dining room overlooking Cunha in the valley to the east. The sky roof, which was built to accommodate a tree growing through it, makes this dining space especially bright and memorable.

Local foods

Even if perishable items might not make the best gifts to bring back home, don’t let that stop you from trying some for yourself! The farmer’s market mentioned above is a great place to browse, but many stores offer local products like honey, pickled peppers, spices, coffee, and local beer and spirits. If nothing else, they’re great to just have at home as snack options!

Final notes on restaurants

Cunha doesn’t really have anything resembling international cuisine. Restaurant hours also seem to be a bit scattershot, so I’d recommend being flexible and checking beforehand if there’s a place you really want to try. Most diners (and stores) are closed on Sundays; I’d recommend picking up groceries on Saturday afternoon just to be safe. Finally, Cunha is not home to any fast food chains (as far as I can tell). Embrace it and support one of the many small businesses here instead!

Gift Ideas

Cunha is home to a number of different industries, including car maintenance (to keep all those old VWs on the road, I assume), lumber, farming, and ranching.

However, the industry that translates most readily into gifts and souvenirs is pottery. A lot of ceramic artists are based in Cunha, and many of them produce small pieces that make great gifts. I highly recommend checking out Casa do Artesão (Craftsman House), a huge gift shop that sells dozens of artists’ work for good prices.

There also appear to be a lot of smaller boutique shops along Rua Alcides Barbeta on the western edge of town.

Day Trips

As mentioned at the beginning of this post, a lot of the attractions near Cunha are far enough away that you’re going to need to hire a taxi to get to them. During my time here, I visited a couple of waterfalls, a lavender farm, and a nearby city, which you can read about here. Don’t forget about these options when planning a trip!

So... Is There Anything to Actually Do in Cunha?

If you’ve read this far and are thinking to yourself that Cunha doesn’t seem to have very much to do, I’d actually agree. This quiet yet picturesque village is not probably not the place to go if you’re looking for a very exhilarating vacation. With that said, Cunha is very atmospheric, and in my opinion, the landscapes more than make up for any lack of activities to do.

Since I’ve accidentally stumbled into the life of a digital nomad this year thanks in part to COVID-19, I’ll mention that Cunha is the perfect place for an extended stay for travelers working remotely. My Airbnb host warned that the WiFi here can be spotty, but I had a good connection almost the entire time I was there (for about a month). Just to be safe, I can always use a mobile hotspot in a pinch (and cell service is good where I stayed, although it cuts out completely once you leave town).

Cunha is basically halfway between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro: about three or four hours to both cities by car. Although it’s not the closest or most convenient town to either major city, the views here are definitely worth the drive. Would you dedicate three days of a two-week trip to Brazil to check it out? Have you ever been to Cunha? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading, stay safe and healthy, and have a great day, guys!

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This post was published on Aug 6, 2020

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The post Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Cunha Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas

1. O Lavandário

Stop for lunch or a beer on the way back

2. A Pair of Waterfalls

Cachoeira do Pimenta

Cachoeira do Desterro

A Shiitake Farm

3. Go Even Further Off the Grid...

4. Go For a Hike at Pedra da Macela

5. Aparecida, Home of the Second Largest Church in the World

Is Guaratinguetá worth a visit?

Additional Info

How should you get around?

Where should you stay?

Which day trip do I recommend most?

Cunha: An Amazing Small Town

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Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Magnificent Views

Mountains

Architecture

Where to see the best views

Old VW Beetles

Churches

Igreja do Rosário e São Benedito

Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição

Igreja Metodista Central em Cunha

The Town Market

Restaurants

Restaurante Casarão

Restaurante Dona Dita

Restaurante Jeca Grill

Quintal da Cau

Veríssima Bistrô

Bar Reale

Bethlehem Cozinha Artesanal

Local foods

Final notes on restaurants

Gift Ideas

Day Trips

So... Is There Anything to Actually Do in Cunha?

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

Recent Posts

Meet Your Caffeinated Blogger: Kevin!

Where I Am Now

Categories

Where I’ve Been

Upcoming Trips

Archives

Click To Follow!

Support the Blog!

Subscribe Via Email

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