India Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/india/ Blog of a Traveling Coffee Addict Sun, 12 Nov 2023 17:28:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://i0.wp.com/caffeinatedexcursions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/wp-1555570621336.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 India Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/india/ 32 32 141833777 The Best Restaurants In Kochi, Kerala https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-restaurants-in-kochi-kerala/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-restaurants-in-kochi-kerala/#comments Thu, 24 Oct 2019 07:00:07 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=8649 Greetings, fellow travelers and foodies! My recent solo journey to the city of Kochi in India was one of my favorite trips of the year. Kochi has beautiful beaches and a unique system of marshy canals and rivers... But it also has one more thing going for it that can’t be overstated: its vibrant food scene...

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The Best Restaurants In Kochi, Kerala

Published October 24, 2019

Greetings, fellow travelers and foodies! My recent solo journey to the city of Kochi (also spelled ‘Cochin’) in the Indian state of Kerala was one of my favorite trips of the year. Kochi is a city defined by beautiful beaches and a unique system of marshy canals and rivers known as the backwaters (which you can read about in my comprehensive guide to the city). But Kochi has one more thing going for it that can’t be overstated: its vibrant food scene.

In this post, I’ll share some of the best restaurants I found as well as other tips on how to make the most of Kochi as a culinary destination. Here are the topics I’ll be covering. Click any link below to skip directly to that section.

  1. Top Recommendations
    1. Oceanos Restaurant
    2. Fusion Bay
    3. Rasoi Fort Kochi
    4. Old Harbour Hotel Restaurant
  2. Branch Out
    1. Tibetan food
    2. Bakeries
    3. Ginger House Restaurant
    4. Biryani
  3. Coffee
    1. Kashi Art Cafe
    2. Pepper House
  4. Beer and Cocktails
    1. Kingfisher beer
    2. A note on cocktails
  5. Honorable Mentions
    1. Homemade meal on a river cruise
    2. Complimentary breakfast at my homestay

1. Top Recommendations

The following restaurants are perfect for a sit-down meal. All four are located in the waterfront historical area known as Fort Kochi, which is where visitors tend to stay.

Oceanos Restaurant

My homestay recommended this seafood restaurant specializing in local dishes, and it was pretty good. The menu is large, and ordering a dish sort of felt like a shot in the dark. Luckily, the spicy fish curry I got for my main course was as full of flavor as I hoped it would be. The only complaint I have about Oceanos was that the service was sort of slow.

Fusion Bay
ഫ്യൂഷൻ ബേ

Fusion Bay is probably my favorite restaurant on the list. Not only was it casual, but the service was good and the dishes were stunning. It looked as if most meals came with the wide array of side dishes pictured below, spread beautifully on a banana leaf and served on a metal tray. They offer a ton of seafood and Keralan dishes, so if you want to experience local flavor, I highly recommend trying Fusion Bay.

Rasoi Fort Kochi

Conveniently located on Rose Street in Fort Kochi,  this restaurant specializes in North Indian food. Don’t let that stop you from checking it out for lunch or dinner one day. I ordered their chicken skewer platter and a serving of cheese and garlic naan, both of which were packed full of flavor and hot off the grill.

Old Harbour Hotel Restaurant

This is the fanciest (i.e., most expensive) restaurant on the list, but if you’re looking to splurge on some great food, look no further. I ordered a crab dish with two different sauces and rice on my final night in Kochi, and it was a great way to end the trip. Old Harbour is located here.

Be sure to leave room for dessert! I ordered ice cream with fruit and crumble. It sounds pretty standard, but the tartness of the fruit perfectly complemented the sweet vanilla. It was honestly one of the most memorable desserts I’ve had this year.

2. Branch Out

This section features some additional ideas, including snacks and more casual options.

Try a Tibetan Restaurant

I was surprised to see quite a few different Tibetan restaurants around town, so I was excited to try one. I went to Tibetan Chef’s Restaurant and ordered a plate of dumplings, which were simple yet delicious. If I had more time, I would’ve gladly tried one or two more places to get a better sense of what Tibetan cuisine is like. I recommend it, especially if you’ve never been to a Tibetan restaurant before.

Visit a Bakery

If you were unaware that India had amazing pastries, I’m here to tell you that they do and you need to try them! Bakeries are everywhere in Fort Kochi. I happened to get the bun and green cookie pictured below from Elite Bakery, but I visited a few more and they all seemed to have a wide selection of sweets.

Ginger House Restaurant

Located in Jew Town (a short tuk-tuk ride away from Fort Kochi), Ginger House was probably the most unique restaurant I found. The entire menu features ginger-inspired dishes and drinks. I wasn’t sure what to expect when I ordered a ginger milkshake, but it ended up being really good!

Ginger House is also connected to a museum and a hotel, and the courtyard is stunning. Even the view of the river from the outdoor dining area is really nice.

Biryani

This common Indian dish is one that I’ve had many times at home, so when I saw Al-Falah Biryani Hut at the Kunnumpuram Junction, I couldn’t resist trying it. I would say it was more or less what I expected. Nonetheless, there’s something wholesome about rice with meat and a ton of fragrant spices.

3. Coffee

Can a blog called ‘Caffeinated Excursions’ even have a food post without at least a mention of the city’s most notable cafes? Two of my favorite coffee shops in Kochi are discussed below.

Kashi Art Cafe

As soon as I walked through the door, I knew that Kashi Art Cafe had all the makings of a top-notch establishment: a creative menu, an interesting concept, and a casual yet welcoming vibe. I liked it so much that I had to come back a second time. Their iced coffee with coconut milk and honey was a beverage I simply couldn’t pass up.

Take a moment or two to peek all the way into the back of the dining area even if you don’t sit there. I really liked the art they had on display there, as well as the beautiful courtyard in the middle with natural lighting.

Pepper House

What I loved most about this particular cafe was its beautiful open-air courtyard as well as the bookstore (or library?) on site. The drink I got was good, but it was especially nice as a place to just sit and relax for a bit.

4. Beer and Cocktails

While traveling, I am usually on the lookout for interesting places to grab a drink. Bars (and breweries, etc.) can reveal a lot about a city’s food scene overall. With that in mind, the main thing I noticed about Kochi is that they were few and far between. And that’s no coincidence: the sale of alcohol in Kerala was essentially banned until mid-2017, according to this and other sources online. Some restrictions are still in place, so the bar scene in Kochi is quite literally in its infancy. Here’s some more info.

Kingfisher beer

I recommend sticking to beer over mixed drinks in Kochi (I’ll explain why in a minute). And if you’re going to have beer, you might as well take advantage of a local brand: Kingfisher. It was very prominent on almost every drink menu I saw, and I tried a few of the many varieties available. If you order one, expect it to come in a big bottle (which fills roughly 2.5 glasses of beer).

A note on cocktails

I only had one or two cocktails in Kochi mainly because they were so expensive. With so few bars to choose from, I never found a place with really original or noteworthy mixed drinks.

5. Honorable Mentions

The last two items on my list aren’t really restaurants or cafes you can go to, but they were some of my favorite food-related memories of Kochi.

Homemade meal on a river cruise

A visit to Kochi isn’t complete without a Kerala Backwaters river cruise (learn more here). Although the boat ride was incredibly relaxing, another highlight of the day trip was the delicious lunch we were served.

We docked at what honestly looked like someone’s house right on the banks of the river. Then a couple of people came out and served everything pictured below: a vegetarian curry accompanied by a variety of pickled vegetables and a deliciously crispy biscuit (the name escapes me… if you know what it’s called, please leave a comment and tell me!).

It may not look like a huge meal, but they offered seconds (and thirds, and fourths…) of everything. Each serving was light and refreshing, but I left feeling quite full and satisfied.

Complimentary breakfast at my homestay

Last but definitely not least, another meal I’ll remember quite fondly in Kochi was the free breakfast that was served each morning at my homestay. I can’t speak for other homestays, but Coconut Grove Homestay (affiliate link) provided a soup or curry as well as local pastries and juice every morning. If you’re looking for a place to stay in Fort Kochi, be sure to choose one with a complimentary breakfast! You won’t regret it.

To Wrap Up...

Did I get sick? And Other Final Reflections on Eating in Kochi

As a lifelong fan of Indian food, it was quite a treat to at long last taste some local flavors in India. I think the biggest takeaway from eating in India for a week is how diverse the options are. Keralan cuisine is not commonly found in the US, so it was especially interesting to try some local seafood and fish specialties with Portuguese and Dutch influences.

If you’re wondering if I ever got an upset stomach, the answer is no. I never specifically avoided anything in Kochi (for example, I never avoided ice). A few things to note: I think that I developed a strong stomach while traveling in China in 2010 and also during my first visit to Mexico in 2017. These days, I rarely experience symptoms of food poisoning, which I assume is a result of adventurous eating across six continents. I was also told by one friend that there’s a reason it’s called ‘Delhi belly’: namely that food-related illnesses among foreigners is especially common in that particular city. I can’t yet confirm or deny.

As you might guess, Kochi has even more to offer than its food and restaurant scene. If you haven’t already, be sure to check out my complete guide to the city designed specifically for readers venturing to India for the first time. Kochi is the perfect destination, and I explain why in that separate post. Thanks for reading, and bon appetit if you’re reading from Kochi or headed there soon!

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This post was published on Oct 24, 2019

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First Trip To India? Head Straight To Kochi, Kerala! https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/first-trip-to-india-head-straight-to-kochi-kerala/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/first-trip-to-india-head-straight-to-kochi-kerala/#comments Tue, 22 Oct 2019 17:00:07 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=8509 Have you been curious about visiting India, but you're not sure where to go or what to expect? Read this post to see what I encountered there as a solo traveler, and how I decided to go to the beautiful coastal city of Kochi!

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First Trip To India? Head Straight To Kochi, Kerala!

Published October 23, 2019

When I first decided to do a solo trip to India, I have to admit that I was a bit nervous. Now that I’ve lived in Vietnam for well over six months, I’m pretty familiar with Southeast Asia. However, I knew much less about this massive country over 1000 miles to the west. Luckily, I’m very happy to report that my four-day getaway to India went smoothly! So how did I decide where to go and what to do?

A number of resources online recommended that first-time visitors check out a medium-sized coastal city in the southern states. I narrowed my options down to Goa, Chennai, Puducherry, and Kochi. Ultimately, I decided on Kochi (also spelled ‘Cochin’) in the state of Kerala because of cheap airfare and the fact that it didn’t look overly touristy.

A few more articles (including a really helpful one by the late, great Rachel Jones from Hippie in Heels) suggested that most points of interest were concentrated in the area known as Fort Kochi, which despite its name is not actually a walled city. Nonetheless, I really liked how compact and quaint this waterfront neighborhood was. In terms of where to stay, Fort Kochi is the obvious choice.

In this post, I’ll share what you can expect to see in Kochi, which activities you can feel free to skip, and some additional tips. As you might guess, the food I had in Kochi was an unforgettable part of the experience. That’s why I’ve written an entirely separate post to help you navigate the outstanding culinary scene in this city! If you’re curious about that, click here. Otherwise, read on to learn what you’ll encounter in this beautiful Indian city!

Highlights of Kochi

The city of Kochi is known for a number of different things: Dutch and Portuguese architecture, fishing and seafood, and picturesque beaches. This section will cover all that and more!

Fort Kochi
ഫോർട്ട് കൊച്ചി

As mentioned above, the neighborhood of Fort Kochi is where you’ll probably spend most of your time as a visitor. Here are the highlights of this walkable historic district.

Chinese Fishing Nets
ചീനവല

Perhaps the most famous symbol of Kochi is its Chinese fishing nets. These distinctive, crane-like fishing nets line the shores of both Fort Kochi and Vypin (the area directly to the north). Teams of fishermen use a system of counterweights to drop the nets into the water and raise them back up in hopes of catching a few unsuspecting sea creatures.

Stick around the area long enough to watch the nets being raised and/or lowered at least once. Notice the size of the catch (to me, it seemed quite small for the amount of work involved). According to Hippie in Heels, this method of fishing isn’t very efficient, so the nets are more of a tourist attraction than anything else these days. Don’t be surprised if a bunch of the fisherman are persistent in inviting you onto their docks to take pictures and videos up close (and presumably give a tip in return).

Beaches and Sunsets

Fort Kochi’s beaches are nice enough, especially when the weather is good. The water is surprisingly blue and the shores are pretty clean and well-maintained. There’s a nice waterfront walkway as well that’s open to the public.

What’s really noteworthy about Fort Kochi’s waterfront is that it is an amazing place to catch the sunset over the Arabian Sea. On my last night in the city, I witnessed one of the most jaw-dropping sunsets I’ve ever seen. It was raining pretty hard, but I think that cloud cover resulted in a vibrant display of reds, pinks, blues, oranges, and yellows unlike any I’ve seen in recent memory. Keep an eye on the weather and stay close to the waterfront during the early evening; you could be rewarded handsomely!

Churches and Cathedrals

Since Kerala has such a long history of involvement with the Dutch and Portuguese, it’s no surprise that Christianity has a strong prevalence in Kochi even today. While the city is home to basically every house of worship you can imagine, Fort Kochi has a collection of beautiful, old churches and cathedrals.

Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica
St. George Orthodox Koonan Kurish Old Syrian Church (Mattancherry)

Although not the most ornate, a particularly noteworthy one is St. Francis Church, which was built in the early 1500s. Nearby this incredibly old structure is a historically significant cemetery (more on that below). Some other nice churches in the area include the Santa Cruz Cathedral and St. Peter’s & St. Paul’s Jacobite Syrian Church.

St. Francis Church
St. Peter's & St. Paul's Jacobite Syrian Church

Kerala Backwaters River Cruise
കേരളത്തിലെ കായലുകൾ

If you’re interested in doing a day trip from Kochi, I recommend doing a Kerala Backwaters tour. On the outskirts of the city are a vast network of swampy rivers and streams known as the Backwaters. They are an important part of the culture and way of life in Kerala, so boat tours through them are a popular tourist attraction.

After being picked up from my homestay around 8:00 a.m., the dozen or so people on my tour were driven out to an area called Murinjupuzha (മുരിഞ്ഞുപുഴ), which took about two hours to get to with traffic. We then got into a traditional boat with our tour guide and two paddlers and set off for our long and slow journey through the surrounding rivers.

I booked my tour through my homestay, which cost 1000 INR (approx. 14 USD) for the whole day and included pick-up, drop-off, and lunch. The food they served was amazing, and it was one of my favorite meals of the trip.

In all honesty, my one complaint is that the pace of the tour was a bit slow. It was interesting that the boat was traditional (i.e. had no motor) but this meant we moved along at a snail’s pace and really didn’t actually see that much. It was relaxing for sure, but I almost wish I had brought a book or something, because I was sort of bored towards the end of the trip. However, I still recommend seeing the Backwaters if you have time. They’re a famous part of Kerala and a world apart from the busy streets of Kochi.

Vypin
വൈപ്പിൻ

The district of Vypin is directly north of Fort Kochi and is easily accessible by ferry. The area offers a few additional points of interest if you’ve already seen everything mentioned above.

Waterfront area

The south-facing waterfront of Vypin is small but significantly less touristy than its Fort Kochi counterpart. There’s a little church here with a picturesque courtyard, as well as a couple of Chinese fishing nets.

Vypin Lighthouse
വൈപ്പിൻ ലൈറ്റ്ഹൗസ്

I’m a bit of a sucker for lighthouses, so I wanted to go check this one out. However, it’s too far from the Vypin Ferry Jetty to walk, so you’ll need to hire a tuk-tuk to get to it. If I remember correctly, I had to pay 120 rupees. However, I didn’t see any tuk-tuks pass by when I wanted to go back, so I had to call an Uber. If you’re willing to deal with all that, by all means go check it out during open visiting hours.

The views are pretty nice from up top, but it’s far enough away from Fort Kochi that you won’t see any of the historic district. You’ll be able to see the ocean, the nearby village, and palm trees for miles.

Ferry

The ferry from Fort Kochi to Fort Vypin only lasts a few minutes and runs all day. It also only costs 3 INR (equivalent of a nickel!) per trip. Have your camera ready to take a picture or two of the fishing nets or Fort Kochi from a unique angle.

Mattancherry
മട്ടാഞ്ചേരി

This is the neighborhood located directly east of Fort Kochi. It’s a bit more local, but still has a couple of interesting sites worth checking out.

Jew Town
ജ്യൂ ടൗൺ

Mattancherry is home to a small yet lively Jewish quarter. This area is famous for its shopping, so bring a bit of cash if you’re in need of some souvenirs or gifts. Many of the shops here also house cafes, so it’s a great place for a coffee break as well.

For whatever reason, this neighborhood is also home to quite a few antique shops. That’s not the most practical thing to bring back home, but it was still interesting to browse one or two of them regardless.

Paradesi Jewish Synagogue
ജൂത സിനഗോഗ്

I didn’t expect to visit a synagogue while in India, but it ended up being really interesting! They didn’t allow photographs inside, but take my word: the interior of the temple is a beautiful mix of Indian and Jewish motifs and designs. The floor tiles, which look like Portuguese azulejos, are especially intricate.

The entrance to the synagogue

Mattancherry Palace
മട്ടാഞ്ചേരി കൊട്ടാരം

Unfortunately, this famous palace museum was closed for a diplomatic visit on the day I was in the area, so I wasn’t able to check it out. If you’ve been, leave a comment below and let me know what’s inside!

Image courtesy of Holidify (click image for link).

Attractions You Can Skip

A few attractions in Kochi were a little underwhelming, and one was a straight-up disappointment. You won’t miss much if you don’t do the following three things.

Indo-Portuguese Museum

This small museum might be interesting if you’re a religious studies major or researcher, but I found their collection of Christian artifacts a bit lackluster. The museum only takes a minute or two to walk through, and it’s not free. If you don’t have time to go, don’t feel bad.

Dutch Cemetery

This graveyard was home to Vasco da Gama’s remains before they were transported back to Lisbon a number of years after burial (can you imagine, in the 1500s?). That sounds interesting, but unfortunately the cemetery is gated and locked (and this appears to be permanent). You can peer through the iron bars to see the view below, but you won’t be able to go in and see individual tombstones up close.

Kerala Kathakali Centre
കേരള കഥകളി സെന്റർ

Kathakali is an ancient type of theater performance that comes from Kerala. It involves really intricate makeup, song and dance, a form of sign language, and stunning costumes. When I booked a ticket to see a performance at the Kerala Kathakali Center, I was excited to see what it was all about. They even allow audience members to watch the performers do their makeup before the show, which was really interesting.

Unfortunately, it was all downhill from there. While the performance itself was good, the overall experience was completely ruined by the other members of the audience, many of whom were being shockingly rude. People were talking, getting up, and otherwise being disruptive. But the worst part was that dozens of people had phones held high to take photos and video, often with full brightness. There was even some flash photography. Since much of Kathakali is based on eye movements and facial expressions, this sea of bright, flashing lights in the audience completely distracted from the artform. I left feeling frustrated and disappointed.

The theater had a small sign in front saying, “no video recording or mobile photography,” but at no point did a staff member ever make a verbal announcement asking the audience to abide by that rule, and it was never enforced during the show.

If you’re really interested in theater and performing arts, I think you should still try to see Kathakali, but ask around to find a more local venue that won’t attract so many international tourists. Part of the problem here was that a massive European tour group comprised the majority of the audience that night, so I suspect that most of those people had no interest in seeing Kathakali and were only there because it was on their tour itinerary.

Food: So Good I Had to Write a Separate Post

Every meal I had in Kochi was an unforgettable experience. Plus, I’m sure you’re wondering if I got an upset stomach from eating local food in India! To read all about it, head on over to my Kochi food guide. Below are some of the dishes I’ll dish about!

Tips

Kochi ended up being a lot more straightforward than I expected in terms of where to stay and how to get around. This last section should answer any questions you may have.

Where to Stay

Fort Kochi has a bunch of homestays in addition to some more luxurious hotels close to the beach. I booked a private room at the Coconut Grove Homestay via Airbnb, which was both affordable and conveniently located.

My favorite part about staying here was the delicious breakfast that was served each morning (pictured above). The hosts, Antony and Rincy, were also incredibly knowledgeable and helpful; I was able to book my Backwaters boat trip directly with them. Although there are many homestay options in Fort Kochi, you don’t have to look further than Coconut Grove for a guaranteed great stay.

How to Get Around

Getting around Fort Kochi and the surrounding areas is cheap and easy. In addition to Uber, there are also an endless supply of tuk-tuks eager for your business. To cross the rivers, there are many ferry services that connect that various islands and peninsulas around Fort Kochi.

Here’s a tip: Google Maps will actually tell you how much to expect to pay for a tuk-tuk within the Fort Kochi area. Prepare to pay a bit of a premium (maybe 10 or 20 rupees above the price on Google) if you’re an international tourist, but at least you’ll know if a driver attempts to charge double or triple the price it should be. I only hired one tuk-tuk in Kochi which did have a meter, but I just agreed on the price verbally before getting in.

One final note: Cochin International Airport is surprisingly far from Fort Kochi. An Uber from one to the other will cost about 800 or 900 INR (approx. 12 or 13 USD). Give yourself about two hours and expect at least some traffic.

India: Kochi Is Just a Drop in the Bucket

If you love the vibe of countries like Thailand and Malaysia but are looking for something new, I think it’s time to start planning your getaway to Kerala! In fact, the state’s motto is “God’s Own Country,” and with such beautiful landscapes and rich history, I think it’s spot-on.

India is truly massive. You could spend a lifetime traveling within its borders and still not see everything it has to offer. I’m so glad I chose to visit Kochi first, but I can’t wait for my next chance to see another state or region of this beautiful country. Have you been to Kochi before? Did you enjoy it as much as I did? Or do you have any questions about a first trip to India? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading, guys!

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This post was published on Oct 23, 2019

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