Quintana Roo Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/quintana-roo/ Blog of a Traveling Coffee Addict Tue, 23 Dec 2025 08:53:34 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://i0.wp.com/caffeinatedexcursions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/wp-1555570621336.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Quintana Roo Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/quintana-roo/ 32 32 141833777 A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review: Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel And Bimini) https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/a-virgin-voyages-cruise-review-riviera-maya-miami-to-cozumel-and-bimini/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/a-virgin-voyages-cruise-review-riviera-maya-miami-to-cozumel-and-bimini/#respond Sat, 18 May 2024 17:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=36078 My friend Ismael and I recently booked a five-night cruise on Virgin Voyages out of Miami. Since this was our very first ocean cruise, neither of us knew exactly what to expect. But once we boarded the Scarlet Lady, saw our cabin, and had our first drink, we knew...

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A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review:
Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel & Bimini)

A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review: Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel And Bimini)

Published May 18, 2024

My friend Ismael and I recently booked a five-night cruise on Virgin Voyages out of Miami. Since this was our very first ocean cruise, neither of us knew exactly what to expect. But once we boarded the Scarlet Lady, saw our cabin, and had our first drink, we knew it would be an amazing time! From start to finish, Virgin Voyages’ Riviera Maya cruise was an absolute blast!

Ismael (left) and me (Kevin, right) in front of The Beach Club at Bimini, Bahamas

Why Did We Choose Virgin Voyages?

We took this cruise at the end of March, which coincided with my spring break. I work in education, so I didn’t have a ton of flexibility with my time off. With that in mind, we basically had two cruise options: this one with Virgin Voyages (VV), or a Royal Caribbean cruise leaving Port Canaveral that went to CocoCay and Nassau in The Bahamas.

Nassau, Bahamas

A couple of logistical details pushed us towards VV. First and foremost, the Riviera Maya cruise was one night longer than the Royal Caribbean one. In addition, neither of us had been to Cozumel or Bimini, but I had been to Nassau before. Finally, the VV cruise visited two countries, while the Royal Caribbean cruise only visited one. All of these factors convinced us to go with Virgin.

Sunset photo from my 2017 trip to Nassau, Bahamas
Paradise Island near Nassau, Bahamas. Photo from my 2017 trip

On top of that, Virgin Voyages is a newer company that markets itself as an innovator in the cruise industry. Eventually, I do want to try (and blog about) cruising with one of the big three cruise lines. However, Virgin Voyages seemed like a good fit for us this time.

Ismael and I are both avid travelers who lean towards off-the-beaten-path destinations. We also love amazing food from all over the world! Virgin generally gets high marks for cuisine offerings on board, so that enticed us as well. As a brand, VV seemed more aligned with our style of travel than Royal Caribbean.

What’s important to know about Virgin Voyages? First and foremost, their cruises are only for adults. As such, there are no venues or amenities on board the ship aimed at kids. Secondly, almost all food is included in the voyage cost. Finally, there are no gratuities that you are required to pay on board.

Beyond that, we were impressed by the stylish spaces on the Scarlet Lady. Each restaurant, bar, and entertainment venue was beautifully designed. It made exploring the ship so much fun!

The Cruise Itinerary

Below, you’ll find the daily itinerary for Virgin Voyages’ Riviera Maya cruise. It includes information about the port stops, “Shore Things” (excursions), and what we did during our days at sea.

Day 1: Boarding in Miami 🇺🇸

The first day of our cruise was all about checking in on the Scarlet Lady and getting settled. I flew from Chicago to Miami the night before embarkation, and we stayed at a budget hotel by the airport. The next morning, we woke up, did some last-minute shopping, and got lunch at a Peruvian restaurant. After that, we took an Uber to Port of Miami.

Peruvian food for lunch at El Pollo Inka, Miami

To board a Virgin Voyages cruise leaving out of Miami, passengers have to head to Terminal V (located here). Setting this as the destination for our Uber worked for us; we were dropped off in the right place.

Our designated check-in time was 4:30 pm, and Virgin requests that Sailors (their term for passengers) don’t arrive early to avoid crowding. To be honest, we disobeyed and arrived around 3:00 pm. That’s because I can’t stand the stress of running late! On top of that, we weren’t familiar with the layout of the cruise terminal, nor did we know how long the check-in process would take. I figured at worst, we might have to hang out and wait for an hour or so.

Luckily, staff at the terminal let us check in about an hour early. I think their advice not to arrive before your designated time is meant for folks who plan to show up, like, six hours before their assigned embarkation slot.

Checking in was straightforward. It took about fifteen minutes for the two of us. Terminal V is also a gorgeous, spacious building! It made a very positive first impression on me and served as a preview of Virgin Voyages’ focus on beautiful design.

Terminal V as viewed from the ship during departure. I wanted to take some pictures inside, but check-in was so quick that I didn't really get a chance to!

Stepping foot onto the Scarlet Lady was such a cool experience for me as a first-time ocean cruiser! There are so many bright, modern spaces on board, and the boat felt larger than life. Keep in mind, the Scarlet Lady has a capacity of 2,770 passengers, making it a very average-sized cruise ship. But to me, it still felt absolutely massive, especially on the first day of our trip!

The gangway between Terminal V (on the right) and the Scarlet Lady (on the left)

We found our cabin, dropped off our belongings, then headed to the top deck for some champagne during the ship’s sail away party. The open-air deck is one of my favorite parts of the Scarlet Lady! It was an excellent place to relax, sip our drinks, and enjoy the views of the Miami skyline before dinner.

After dinner, we attended a drag show, got a midnight snack at the ship’s pizzeria, walked around the top deck, and finally called it a night. If you’re curious about food on the ship or the ship’s entertainment offerings, click the corresponding link to skip down to those sections of this post!

A drag show we saw on the first night of our cruise

Day 2: At Sea 🌊

The second day of this cruise was entirely at sea. We spent hours exploring the ship, eating, drinking, lounging at the pool, and hanging out! Throughout Days 1 and 2, the Scarlet Lady sailed away from Miami, alongside the Florida Keys, and then alongside Cuba as it made its way towards Cozumel in Mexico. For a few hours in the afternoon, we were actually close enough to Cuba to see the island off in the distance.

During our days at sea, we participated in a number of organized events and activities. For example, we took part in things like coffee tastings, bracelet making, a cocktail mixing competition, and more. Some of these activities were free, and others required us to pay extra to participate. Some required reservations on the Virgin Voyages app, and others were first come first served.

A cocktail mixing competition on board the Scarlet Lady

Since these activities (or at least, other similar ones) should be offered on every Virgin Voyages cruise, I won’t be detailing all of them here. If you want to learn more about the ship and its offerings, skip down to that section of this post below!

Day 3: Cozumel, Mexico 🇲🇽

On the morning of our voyage’s third day, we docked in Cozumel. This Mexican island is part of the state of Quintana Roo. This state is home to famous tourist destinations such as Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum. By the way, the name “Riviera Maya” refers to Mexico’s Caribbean coastline between Puerto Morelos and Punta Allen (plus the island of Cozumel).

Before disembarking the Scarlet Lady, I went up to the top deck to check the weather, and unfortunately, skies were completely overcast. This would last the entire day, but at least it wasn’t chilly. In fact, even with cloudy skies, Cozumel was noticeably hotter and more humid than Miami and the Caribbean Sea during Days 1 and 2.

Virgin Voyages uses the Punta Langosta Cruise Terminal (at least, they did on our sailing). The island has between three and five main piers depending on what source you’re looking at, and Punta Langosta is right in the center of San Miguel de Cozumel, the island’s main city.

The very first view we had after leaving the Scarlet Lady. We were docked next to the Celebrity Reflection. It almost felt like being between two giant buildings.

A Review of Our Sailing and Snorkeling Excursions

We booked a Shore Thing in Cozumel about four months before the cruise, which meant we had a planned outing for Day 3. It was called “Sail, Snorkel, & Hidden Beach Escape” and cost $120 per person. This excursion included a catamaran ride to a snorkeling spot, followed by a visit to a private beach club near San José.

Checking in for our Shore Thing was easy, and it didn’t require us to leave the Punta Langosta pier. We were grouped together with people from other cruises on the catamaran. After everyone found a spot to sit, we took off. Our captain navigated around the Scarlet Lady, which provided an awesome 360-degree view of the ship.

A view of the Scarlet Lady you don't normally get as a Sailor

As we approached our snorkeling stop, Ismael got his gear on and prepared to dive into the water. I decided to just hang out on the catamaran and try to get some pictures. Unfortunately, with the weather still pretty grey, the Caribbean waters here weren’t particularly impressive.

Ismael said the snorkeling was fine, and some fish were visible. However, it wasn’t the best snorkeling he’s ever done. The captains also warned all of us that you need to be a decent swimmer to participate. In spite of that, some people jumped in and basically needed to be rescued right away. Everyone is required to wear a life vest, but don’t try to snorkel here if you can’t at least tread water!

One of my biggest complaints about this Shore Thing is that the drinks sucked. The description provided by Virgin Voyages says adult beverages are included in the price. The catamaran had unlimited beer and margaritas, but both of those drinks deserve very emphatic air quotes around them. The so-called margarita was extremely watered down; it tasted like lemonade. I don’t even think it had the slightest hint of tequila in it, to be honest.

The beer was better than the margarita, but that’s not saying much. It was either the lightest beer I’ve ever tasted, or it was diluted with carbonated water. Now, I understand where they’re coming from: the tour company doesn’t want passengers to become extremely drunk or unruly during the excursion. However, I’d much rather have a two- or three-drink limit on real margaritas and bottled beer versus an unlimited supply of very low quality drinks.

With the snorkeling portion of our excursion complete, we sailed for a little longer and then anchored at the private beach club. This area was decent, but not spectacular. I ordered a fish sandwich for lunch but immediately regretted it. Their burgers fresh off the grill looked a lot more enticing. We ate, strolled along the water for a while, and relaxed. Finally, we got back on the catamaran, which returned directly to Punta Langosta.

My overall feelings about this Shore Thing were mixed, if I’m being generous. I don’t think it was worth anywhere near the 120 USD per person we paid. Especially in Mexico, an excursion like this is worth at most 50 USD. Unless you’re willing to book your own activities, you’re going to pay a premium for booking through your cruise line. Even with that in mind, I don’t feel like the experience was worth such a high price.

Maybe I would’ve felt differently if we had nicer weather. Nonetheless, I will probably skip booking Virgin Voyages Shore Things on any future trip I do with this cruise line. I’ll admit, it takes more work to research activities at ports of call with independent third parties. There’s also an increased risk of not being dropped off at the boat in time. But we spoke with other Sailors who booked activities externally, and they seemed extremely satisfied with their outings. I can’t necessarily say the same for ours.

Exploring San Miguel de Cozumel

After being dropped off at Punta Langosta, Ismael and I had a few free hours. We decided to walk around San Miguel de Cozumel for a little bit to see what the town was like. It was nice, but I wouldn’t call it especially charming. Maybe I’m being uppity, but I lived in Mexico in 2018, so I’ve traveled to some of the country’s best beach towns. I would not consider Cozumel to be one of them.

I’m not trying to be disparaging, but I think this sentiment is commonly shared among cruise enthusiasts. I distinctly remember overhearing an avid cruiser say that they never get off any cruise ship when it’s stopped in Cozumel because they just don’t like it that much. Now that I’ve seen Cozumel for myself, I don’t need to go back.

We wanted to try one local restaurant before getting back on the Scarlet Lady, so we got snacks and drinks at Cocomama Tiki Room (address | Instagram). My steak tacos here were good, but the highlight here was the rum cocktails! They were amazing, especially compared to the bad drinks we had during our Shore Thing. When we were done eating and drinking, we headed back to the cruise ship to rest a bit.

The Best Part of Day 3: Scarlet Night!

Even though Cozumel was a little underwhelming, our evening on the Scarlet Lady made up for it. That’s because we celebrated Scarlet Night on our third evening! In case you didn’t know, every Virgin Voyages cruise has one night where the entire ship becomes a party. Sailors are asked to dress in red, and for multiple hours after dinner, there are events, shows, dance parties, photo booths, and performances throughout all common areas.

I’ll write up a more thorough review of Scarlet Night in my ship overview blog post [coming soon]! But until then, know that this is the biggest event on board the ship. Be sure not to miss it or forget your scarlet attire!

Day 4: At Sea 🌊

On this day, the Scarlet Lady turned around and sailed north from Cozumel to The Bahamas. We spent Day 4 very similarly to how we spent Day 2. After having overcast weather in Cozumel, it was nice to have clear skies again out on the open water.

Day 5: Beach Club at Bimini, Bahamas 🇧🇸

Our final full day on this cruise was spent in Bimini, a tiny archipelago in The Bahamas. This is the closest part of the country to Miami at a distance of only about 55 miles. I’ve wanted to visit Bimini for years, so I was very excited to finally do so with Virgin Voyages!

From what I can tell, almost every Virgin Voyages cruise based out of Miami stops at Bimini. I could be wrong about this, so double check your cruise itinerary if visiting this Bahamian island chain is a priority for you. VV owns and operates their very own private beach club in Bimini, which is probably why most (if not all) of their Miami-based cruises spend a day there.

Virgin Voyages' private beach club in Bimini

On a side note, I’m a huge fan of The Bahamas in general! If I had unlimited time and money, I’d spend months exploring the country’s more remote islands. With that said, I had high expectations for Bimini, and this gorgeous destination was everything I had hoped for!

Virgin Voyages docks at the Bimini Cruise Port, which is located here on the island of North Bimini. The cruise terminal provides free shuttles that make a loop between the cruise pier and The Beach Club. The shuttle takes about ten minutes each way, while walking takes about 25 minutes. Shuttles run roughly once every ten or fifteen minutes.

The free shuttle in Bimini

Exploring Bimini on Foot

Since we didn’t book any Shore Things in Bimini, we had the entire day to explore on our own terms. I really wanted to see the local towns: Bailey Town in the north and Alice Town in the south. Ismael and I decided to walk the entire length of the developed portion of North Bimini, which is a narrow strip of land. It takes about an hour each way.

As soon as you leave Resorts World Bimini (where the Virgin Voyages beach club is located), you’ll find yourself in the “real” Bahamas. If you want to spend your entire day in Bimini relaxing on the beach at the club, that’s totally fine. But I would say adventurous travelers should explore further south. Golf cart rentals are available on the island, but I’m not sure how much they cost. Walking is an option, but give yourself about two or two-and-a-half hours to go all the way to the end and back.

Bailey Town and Alice Town are both quiet, residential areas. I enjoyed leisurely walking through these communities to see local homes, businesses, and street art. When Ismael and I got to Radio Beach, we stopped for a few rum cocktails at an outdoor bar stand with a view of the water. Then we began heading back north. The ocean side of the island (the west) is much prettier than the marsh-facing side (the east).

Radio Beach, Bimini, Bahamas

Eat a Conch Feast

One of my favorite things about The Bahamas is the national dish: conch! It’s a chewy type of seafood, somewhat reminiscent of calamari. However, the flavor is very light (and in my opinion, not fishy at all). This makes it easy to prepare in myriad ways, which is why you can enjoy it as a salad, in a burger, as a stew, and in many other ways.

While walking in Bimini, we passed by mountains of conch shells on certain parts of the coast (shown above). It’s an integral part of Bahamian culture. In fact, sale and trade is strictly limited in the US. Some sources online say that conch meat can be sold in the US, but that it must be imported. I’ve never seen it on a menu anywhere in Florida, which is why I savor it in the Bahamas, where it is very common and readily available.

Fried conch with fries from Joe's Conch Shack

Bimini has no shortage of conch stands, and each one specializes in different conch-based dishes. After comparing reviews and menus, we decided to get lunch at Joe’s Conch Shack. We went all out and ordered fried conch with fries, conch stew with rice and beans, conch fritters, and conch salad. We also ordered two rum punches that really packed a punch! Since we were walking and not driving a golf cart, it wasn’t an issue.

Conch stew (left), conch salad (right), and conch fritters (background) from Joe's Conch Shack

Every dish we got at Joe’s tasted amazing! The fried conch really stood out, especially with a pink sweet and savory sauce to dip them in. I also loved the conch fritters, and the conch salad was similar to ceviche.

In addition to great food, Joe’s Conch Shack has such a fun atmosphere. It’s decorated with dollar bills, plus there’s a pile of conch shells right next to the picnic tables you can eat at. If you are looking to try conch on Bimini, this is a great place to do it. Just be aware that Joe’s takes cash only (I’m pretty sure).

Despite an overload of conch for lunch, I still wanted more. Specifically, I craved a conch burger, which was not on the menu at Joe’s. We stopped one more time down the road at Bowleg’s Food Truck (location | Facebook), where I was able to order one. It came out piping hot! Conch burgers are a little tough to eat since the meat is so chewy, but that’s part of this unique experience!

The Beach Club at Bimini

Even after walking the entire length of the island and back, we still had a few hours to relax at Virgin Voyages’ private beach club. This venue is absolutely beautiful! This spacious club has pools, lounge chairs, bar service, and a pristine stretch of sand with clear blue water. It’s owned and operated directly by Virgin, not a third party partner. I consider that a good thing!

The Beach Club also serves lunch, and I’ve heard many people say it’s amazing. However, as far as I could tell, Virgin Voyages does not serve conch here. That’s why we left Resorts World Bimini and had lunch further south. If you want to try conch but don’t want to leave the beach club, check with VV staff to make sure. If they aren’t offering it at the beach club, the closest local restaurant that serves conch appears to be Smitty’s Beach Bar & Restaurant.

Our Day 5 began with partly cloudy skies. By mid-afternoon, however, the sun was shining brilliantly. This made the glistening blue sea even more spectacular!

After a refreshing swim in the ocean, it was time to head back to the Scarlet Lady. Setting sail and watching Bimini slowly disappear over the horizon was the perfect end to my favorite day on this itinerary. We were also treated to the most impressive sunset of our cruise right before dinner.

Day 6: Return to Miami 🇺🇸

By the time we woke up on Day 6, we had already arrived in Miami. It was bittersweet for our cruise to come to an end! We finished packing, went to The Galley for coffee and breakfast, and I did one final walkthrough of the upper deck to admire the Miami skyline.

About a day or so before arrival, the Virgin Voyages app prompted us to pick a disembarkation time, so we chose the last one (which I believe was 10:30 am). This allowed us to sleep in a little bit and have a leisurely breakfast. If I remember correctly, the earliest you can leave the ship on Day 6 is 7:00 am or 7:30 am.

Disembarking was generally self-explanatory. Ismael and I just went to Deck 7 and left through the same door we boarded through back on Day 1. There was a line to leave that snaked through the lobby, but it never stopped moving. After a short and simple immigration procedure in the terminal building, we were free to go.

Since we didn’t have a rental car, Ismael and I called an Uber from Terminal V. We encountered a bit of a bottleneck with so many people trying to catch a ride at the same time. Luckily, we eventually found the right vehicle, and then we were off.

Port of Miami

Our Day 6 on this cruise fell on a Friday, so Ismael and I spent the weekend in Miami before flying back home. If you’re also planning to check out the Miami metro area before or after your cruise, be sure to consult my separate blog post about things to do there!

Miami Beach, FL
Ocean Drive in Miami Beach, FL

Food & Restaurants on the Ship

As I’ve mentioned above, Virgin Voyages does a phenomenal job with dining on board the ship! It’s one of the top reasons to book a cruise with this company. There are some important details to know when it comes to VV restaurants. For example, food is almost always all-inclusive, but alcoholic beverages are extra.

Lamb shank from Razzle Dazzle, one of the restaurants on the ship

Fortunately, I’ve written a separate comprehensive Virgin Voyages food review! It includes information on all the restaurants we ate at, all the meals we enjoyed, snacks, beverages, and more!

All About the Scarlet Lady

I wrote this blog post for travelers who want to know all about Virgin Voyages’ Riviera Maya itinerary. If you’re curious to learn more about the Scarlet Lady, check out my separate blog post [coming soon]! It will include the following:

  • Review of our stateroom
  • Common areas on the ship
  • Entertainment and activities

Final Verdict on Virgin Voyages Riviera Maya Cruise

Here’s my short answer: I wholeheartedly recommend this cruise, and I love what VV is all about! As a travel enthusiast in my late twenties who’s a newcomer to ocean cruises, I can say that Virgin Voyages was a great fit. I think Ismael really enjoyed it too, and I will admit I’ve routinely been browsing VV’s upcoming sailings and daydreaming about booking another one!

Here’s my longer answer: the reason I liked this cruise so much was because of what Virgin Voyages did, not because of Cozumel. This Mexican island is a hub for cruise ships. I found it to be a pretty unexceptional place to spend a day. Maybe it’s much prettier when the sun is out? If you’ve been to Cozumel on a sunny day, leave a comment below and let me know how it is!

Parque Benito Juárez, Cozumel

In contrast to Cozumel, Bimini was stunning. Luckily, most Virgin Voyages cruises stop here, so you’ll probably get to see this amazing Bahamian island if you’re booking a VV cruise out of Miami.

View of Bimini from the top deck of the Scarlet Lady

I would gladly book another cruise on Virgin Voyages (and probably will someday within the next few years). For my next one, I have my eye on Roatán, an island in Honduras. I’d also be open to stopping in places such as Puerto Rico or Grand Turk.

Have you been on a Virgin Voyages cruise before? Are you considering booking one? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading, and have an amazing cruise if you’re about to embark!

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This post was published on May 18, 2024

The post A Virgin Voyages Cruise Review: Riviera Maya (Miami To Cozumel And Bimini) appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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Holbox: Mexico’s Most Stunning Beach You’ve (Probably) Never Heard Of https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/holbox-mexicos-most-stunning-beach-youve-probably-never-heard-of/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/holbox-mexicos-most-stunning-beach-youve-probably-never-heard-of/#comments Sat, 09 Feb 2019 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=5015 In this post, I’m going to share with you one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets: the island of Holbox! Located off the northern coast of Quintana Roo, Holbox is fairly large island with an absolutely breathtaking beach that even most avid travelers and Mexico enthusiasts haven’t yet heard of...

The post Holbox: Mexico’s Most Stunning Beach You’ve (Probably) Never Heard Of appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

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Holbox: Mexico’s Most Stunning Beach You’ve (Probably) Never Heard Of

Published February 9, 2019

In this post, I’m going to share with you one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets: the island of Holbox! Located off the northern coast of Quintana Roo (the same state in Mexico that’s home to famous destinations like Cancún and Playa del Carmen), Holbox, pronounced “hol-bosh,” is home to a breathtaking beach that many avid travelers and Mexico enthusiasts haven’t yet heard of.

From Cancún, Holbox is about a two-hour bus or shuttle ride away, but it’s well worth the effort to visit. In addition to its unbelievably beautiful beach, Holbox has a little town that’s cozy and welcoming. There are a couple of activities you can do here if you like, but in general, this island is the perfect place to slow down, read a book, and relax on the beach.

At least for now, Holbox seems to attract mostly small groups of French and German travelers, but I suspect that the island is likely to be discovered by Americans and other tourists in the next five or ten years. There’s already a lot of development taking place here, which made me really question whether the island will remain as beautiful and unspoiled as it is now. At the end of this post, I discuss those thoughts in more depth.

For now, let’s dive into what makes Holbox such a wonderful and idyllic place to visit! This is a longer post since I took so many pictures here, so feel free to skip to any of the sections below that pique your interest!

  1. The World-Class Beach
  2. Activity Ideas
  3. Places to Eat
  4. Logistical Hints (How to Get Here)
  5. Thoughts on Development on Holbox

Holbox's World-Class Beach

The main beach on Holbox, which runs all the way along its northern shore, is probably the best beach in Mexico, and quite possibly the best beach in the greater Caribbean. The beauty of it is absolutely unreal; it’s like something out of a dream. What makes a beach unique to me are the combination and gradient of colors in the water, and the shallow water here has some unmistakable greens and turquoises that I don’t think can be found anywhere else in the region, for example in the Bahamas or the Greater Antilles.

Another fascinating thing about the Playa de Holbox is how shallow it is. There are dozens or hundreds of acres of sand right off the shore that are covered in water that only goes up to your ankles. This means you can wade out to sea for multiple minutes and still only have the water come up to your knees.

Because the beach is so shallow, there are also a bunch of expansive sandbars, especially if you head east past the last resort in the Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone).

It’s no wonder that with relatively few beachgoers and white, puffy clouds above, the beach at Holbox ends up looking and feeling so atmospheric.

Activity Ideas

As I mention at the beginning of this post, Holbox isn’t exactly the kind of place where you’ll be booking a bunch of activities. I wholeheartedly recommend leaving noon to 6:00 p.m. each day totally unscheduled to relax on the beach, rest, or sip some beachy cocktails! However, there are at least two guided tours that you might consider doing at some point during your time here: the bioluminescence tour and the “three islands” (tres islas) tour.

Bioluminescent Plankton at Punta Cocos

This is a totally unique natural phenomenon that you really must see if you’ve already made your way to Holbox. While you technically don’t need a tour to see this, I recommend that you book one, and I explain why below.

What is it?

I’m in no way qualified to explain what’s going on here, but simply speaking, there is a large concentration of bioluminescent plankton living in the water surrounding Punta Cocos (you can see it on the open ocean side, but it’s supposed to be better on the lagoon side, located here). If the water is disturbed, for example by your hand or foot, by a swimming fish, or by a big enough wave, these plankton emit a momentary bit of light that collectively look like a bunch of dim sparks in the water.

Do you really need the tour?

The short answer is no, but I recommend it anyways. I didn’t book the tour, and I still got to see them (for free), but the roads on the western side of the island were really muddy, and in many areas were totally flooded. There are also almost no street lights here, so biking or walking from town to Punta Cocos in the dark is kind of a struggle. While safety didn’t appear to be an issue on Holbox, it may not be the wisest decision to walk all the way out to the beach (especially alone).

Now just imagine this with only starlight (ok, and a phone flashlight) to guide your way.

For these reasons, I’d recommend booking the tour, if only because they can provide a ride from the center of town all the way out to the beach and back. I’m sure the guides would also be able to explain what’s going on scientifically, but if you’re curious and want to read more on your own, you can check out this blog here. I think you should expect to pay about 200 pesos per person, but I’m not completely sure.

Unfortunately, it’s not “Instagrammable.”

I have to admit that one thing that disappointed me a little bit about this experience is that it was totally impossible to capture with a camera or video recorder. I think I just assumed it would be the perfect spot for an amazing photo since many of the booths advertising bioluminescence tours have pictures of people swimming in brightly lit water. Those Photoshopped signs are simply not what the actual experience is.

In order to see the water light up, you have to disturb it (i.e., splash in it with your hand or foot), and it only remains lit for a fraction of a second. Trying to record this as a photo or video would be ten times harder than trying to capture a field full of lightning bugs. The truth is that it needs to be pretty dark for you to see the dim flashes of light in the water, and since the illumination isn’t sustained, there’s just not enough light to take any meaningful photo.

However, don’t let that stop you from going to see these incredible microscopic organisms! Unless you’re a marine biologist, this is probably unlike anything you’ve ever seen before, and you’re definitely going to remember it even if you can’t capture a shot of it.

On a side note, it’s recommended that you do this visit on a night with no moon (because the darker it is, the easier you can see the bioluminescence). I happened to do just that, and another really amazing thing about this outing is that you’ll be able to see the stars in the sky incredibly clearly.

Three Islands (Tres Islas) Tour

In contrast to the bioluminescence, the three islands featured on this boat tour are only accessible with the help of a guide and a captain, so if you want to see the attractions featured below, you’ll have to book this tour. My boat departed around 9:00 a.m. and returned to town at noon, so it’s a great way to start the day and still have the full afternoon to enjoy at the beach.

Like most other tours offered on the island, the three islands tour is advertised in literally hundreds of places around town, so just find a tour booth with someone working and ask for a ticket for the following day. I was told to try and get a price around 300 to 350 pesos per person, but was charged 500 and didn’t bother to try and bargain it down.

First Stop: Punta Mosquito

This is the first stop on the tour, which is basically the northernmost point of Holbox Island. It’s a quick stop where you won’t disembark, but the tour guide will briefly explain how this point got its name and says that visitors shouldn’t be walking this far down the beach because it’s a protected wildlife area.

Second Stop: Yalahau

The second stop is a bit more interesting, and it’s actually on the mainland (so it’s not really an island). You’ll get off the boat once it docks at Yalahau, then have a bit of time to explore the nearby “ojo de aqua,” which is small, bubbling spring surrounded by woods. If you want, you can swim here, but everyone who got in looked like they were freezing.

There’s also a little cafe here, which sold various snacks and drinks, including shark and manta ray empanadas. I tried one of each, and both just ended up tasting fishy, so who knows if that’s actually what they had inside!

Third Stop: Isla Pájaros (Bird Island)

The third stop on the tour is the tiny Isla Pájaros. It’s aptly named, because this piece of land is home to an insane number of marine fowl! Since it’s a protected space, you’ll pull up to a dock which is connected by wooden planks to two elevated lookout towers that are offshore. This way, you can still see the birds without disturbing them. Holbox in general is a sanctuary for seabirds, which thrive on the eastern part of the island that isn’t inhabited by humans.

Fourth Stop: Isla de la Pasión (Passion Island)

Last on the list is Isla de la Pasión, another small piece of land that’s much closer to the town of Holbox than Isla Pájaros. There’s not really anything too special about this one, but your tour guides will give you about half an hour to explore this island on foot.

Bioluminescence and Tres Islas are the two tours I recommend considering for a trip to Holbox. There were also a number of signs for horseback riding tours, and in the summer months, you can take a tour to see the whale sharks that pass through this part of the Caribbean. All this activity will probably you pretty hungry, so read on to learn about the dining options once you get back to town!

Culinary Options

I’ll be the first to admit that Holbox’s main attraction is its beach, and the food simply didn’t compare to the culinary experience I had on my recent trip to Oaxaca. With that said, there are still a bunch of interesting places to try in town, and most of the seafood I had here ended up being pretty good. Food prices here seemed to be a bit higher in general than in other places in Mexico, but that’s not too surprising since most ingredients probably have to be be brought to the island via truck and ferry.

Beachfront Bars

The easiest and most touristy option for meals is to eat (and drink) at one of the many bars or restaurants along Holbox’s beach. It’s pretty much what you’d expect: sort of expensive but well-made drinks along with burgers, wings, and standard seafood offerings. I’d say try one or two of these establishments, but remember that there are also a lot of restaurants near the main square!

My Favorite Beach Bar: El Sabor de las Nubes

My favorite beachfront restaurant was El Sabor. I just had a couple of mojitos followed by a burger here, but I really liked their outdoor seating with a great view of the water as well as overall vibe. Give it a try if you can’t decide on a place!

Lobster Pizza

This is Holbox’s signature dish, which is served by a bunch of different restaurants on the island. I tried it at Edylyn’s Restaurant, which claims to be the original creator of the dish. A glass of white wine went perfectly with this simple yet satisfying pizza!

Eateries in Town

The other area to look for food besides the beach is the center of town. Holbox is centered around an outdoor performing arts stage, a basketball court, and a park; the town is small enough that you really can’t miss it. If you’re looking for a place to have a sit-down meal, consider some of the following.

Viva Zapata for a Casual Dinner

This large restaurant with tons of seating seemed to attract a lot of families. I ended up trying a shrimp dish with chaya, a local leafy vegetable that is native to the Yucatán Peninsula. If you’re looking for a simple, straightforward dining experience, this is the place to go.

El Cafecito or Básico for Breakfast

Básico is a chic little restaurant that offers an extensive breakfast menu complete with tons of fresh-squeezed juice options, coffee, and food. I ended up trying a pesto egg toast with egg, which was pretty tasty.

Another breakfast option is El Cafecito, which I liked more as a cafe than a place to eat, but they do have a food menu. I didn’t really see any other coffee places on the island, so if you want a latte or cappuccino at any point in the day, head over here.

El Chapulim: A bit overpriced, but still good

This restaurant received mixed reviews online, and perhaps that makes sense: they boast not having a fixed menu and only using whatever seafood and ingredients are available fresh that day. The restaurant definitely looks interesting from the outside and will attract the attention of anyone walking by, so I decided to take a risk and try it.

After I was seated, I tried both of their house cocktails: a rum-based mango flavored drink and a mezcal-based one. I liked both, although the mango one was really unique and refreshing. For dinner, they had four different options: shrimp, lobster, fish, or steak. I went with the spicy shrimp and thought it was pretty flavorful. It was served with some fruit that were marinated in a spicy sauce mix that was also very good.

It ended up costing a lot (even by Holbox standards), but if you’re willing to splurge a bit, I’d say give this place a try!

Logistical Hints

1. Getting Here

The best way to get to Holbox is by shuttle van or bus. If you’re coming from Cancún International Airport, you have a couple of options, but most tend to depart in the morning. I used this list of buses and booked a 5:30 p.m. shuttle from downtown Cancún and took it without problem. Note that the shuttles and buses will drop you off near the ferry port in Chiquilá, so you’ll have to take a ferry to get to the island (more on that below). To return from Chiquilá, simply book a return shuttle at one of the many tour or information booths on Holbox, ideally the day or two before you leave. One-way tickets between Cancún and Holbox seemed to be 350 pesos regardless of which company you book with.

On Holbox, they’re going to tell you to take the ferry thirty minutes before your shuttle departs, which only arrives into port a couple of minutes before your bus or van takes off. Because there are a number of companies offering shuttle services, be sure to find the correct one! When asking for help locating your ride, show the ticket that your received when you purchased it; otherwise, you could be directed to the wrong bus. If you want to be extra safe, take the ferry from Holbox to Chiquilá one hour before your ride, that way you won’t be in a rush to find the vehicle you’re looking for.

2. Taking the Ferry

The ferry to and from Holbox is pretty straightforward. You’ll have to pay 150 pesos for a one-way ticket, and the ride lasts about 25 minutes. They depart from both Holbox and Chiquilá every half hour, and run from early in the morning until 9:30 p.m. (I think). This appears to be the only ferry route in the area, so you shouldn’t have to worry about specifying where you’re headed.

3. Taxis & Golf Carts

Once you arrive to Holbox, most things will be within walking distance. If you’re carrying a lot of luggage or are staying at one of the hotels or guesthouses that’s farther away from port, hire one of the many golf cart taxis cruising around the island! Like many small islands in the Caribbean, Holbox’s main mode of transportation is golf cart, so you’re going to see many more of them than actual cars.

4. Don't Miss the Sunset!

This isn’t much of a hint for how to make your way around Holbox, but be sure to catch the sunset while you’re here! At least in February, the sun set over the ocean in the west, so crowds gathered on the docks each night to watch. It was a great way to end each day, and it’s finally a chance to cool down.

In spite of all its natural beauty, Holbox has an undeniable sense that it is developing and commercializing – fast. Throughout the center of town, there’s a lot of construction, and if you walk just a few blocks, you’re bound to see bulldozers and construction workers diligently building countless new structures. Most look like new hotels or luxury condos.

Nowhere is this rapid growth more obvious than on western part of the island, where dozens of tall, white boutique hotels tower over the dense, green vegetation and often-flooded dirt roads below. Despite their thicket roofs and attempts to seem “tropical,” these ostentatious, shabbily-styled McMansions (or condos, or hotels) look wholly out of place, since this part of the island has almost no homes or other businesses.

So many questions swirl in my mind. Who is paying to build these hotels? Are locals being hired to construct them, or were contract workers brought in from other parts of the country who will take their earnings back home once the buildings are complete? Will the hotels hire local residents as receptionists, chefs, and housekeepers, or will outsiders move to the island to fill these positions? What effect will it have on locals if Holbox becomes a playground for wealthy vacationers and retirees who drive up prices of everything from food to rent?

Holbox has already undergone one transformation, from a fishing village to a small but growing center for tourism. I can’t say for sure, but I don’t think that this has totally destroyed the local culture of the island. Residents may now guide boat tours instead of fishing for lobster or shark in order to make a living. And in some ways, economic changes can be beneficial, e.g., environmentally. I’m not sure if this is true, but one person here said that the shift from fishing to tourism has actually been good for the local shark population, which now is a major attraction for visitors in late summer and early fall.

Another obvious question is: what role do travel bloggers play in publicizing lesser-known places such as Holbox? What about the average traveler, who is bound to show off how beautiful the beach is on Facebook or Instagram? Of course, bloggers want to expose our readers to stunning new places and inspire them to visit. But once we publish a post, we can’t control how many people it influences, or whether the people we encourage to visit end up being conscientious visitors that support local businesses and respect the local wildlife.

So what does it all mean? It’s simplistic to say that things like development, growth, and tourism are either good or bad, but it does make me a bit melancholy to think that in 10 years, Isla Holbox may not be the lush, green and blue paradise that it is today. Would these beaches be just as gorgeous if they were crowded with ten times as many people as there are today? What about a hundred times? It’s hard to say.

Even though development on Holbox may result in the western half of the island eventually looking like a miniature version of Cancún, I’m hopeful that as long as the beach is maintained and properly cared for, it will remain a beautiful and breathtaking place for many generations to come. Visitors to this small community should aim to support the families that call Holbox home and be mindful of the impact our presence has here.

Holbox was undoubtedly one of my favorite beach destinations in Mexico (the other would probably be the lagoon at Bacalar). If a trip defined by huge tourist crowds, nightclubs, and all-inclusive resorts sounds like a drag to you, then Holbox should absolutely be your next tropical destination!

For my next post, I’ll be discussing what it was like to go from this sleepy beach town to one of South America’s biggest and most dynamic megacities: Buenos Aires! Keep an eye out for that, and until then, stay warm, friends!

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This post was published on Feb 9, 2019

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How To Cross The Mexico-Belize Border By Land: December 2018 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-cross-the-mexico-belize-border-december-2018/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-cross-the-mexico-belize-border-december-2018/#comments Wed, 12 Dec 2018 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=4236 Crossing international borders on foot is always an unusual experience, and even avid travelers rarely get the chance to do so. In the case of Mexico and Belize, information published online in 2017 was already out-of-date...

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How To Cross The Mexico-Belize Border By Land: December 2018

Published December 12, 2018

Crossing international borders on foot is always an unusual experience, and even avid travelers rarely get the chance to do so. This was especially true at the border between Mexico and Belize; I did my research on how to best handle it, and information published online in 2017 was already out-of-date. In this post, I’ll explain how I crossed both ways in December 2018. There are a couple of things you can do to make sure it’s a smooth process.

Who might be interested in coming to Belize this way, and what lies on the other side? Well, I wanted to add a new country to my list (I’m currently at 24) and get a dose of Belizean culture without taking a day off from work. The first town you’ll encounter after crossing into Belize (Corozal) is beautiful, relaxing, and the perfect tropical getaway you’ve almost certainly never heard of. The process of crossing the border is different depending on which way you’re going, so I’ll start by sharing how to cross from Mexico to Belize, then explain how to cross the opposite direction.

Before you go, you’ll want to quickly familiarize yourself with the geography of the region. On the Mexican side is the city of Chetumal, which happens to be the state capital of Quintana Roo. The actual border crossing itself is a few miles west of here, and on the Belizean side is the town of Corozal, about a 15-minute drive further south.

The town square in Corozal, Belize

For whatever reason, flights between Mexico City and Belize City are always very expensive, whereas flights from Mexico City to Chetumal are usually between 100 and 200 USD roundtrip. For any travelers wanting to go between the two countries (especially to/from Mexico City or other major metropolitan areas), crossing this border by land may be your most economical option.

Part I. Mexico to Belize

You’ll want to start your border-crossing journey in Chetumal. Since I only gave myself one weekend for my trip, I flew to Chetumal airport on Friday night, stayed in an Airbnb there, then crossed the border on Saturday morning.

To get to the border, simply hail one of the city’s official cabs and ask for “la frontera.” From most parts of the city, the taxi should charge 100 pesos. They should drop you off at the location below (the Secretaría de Gobernación Instituto Nacional de Migración), and you will be able to approach the immigration kiosk on foot. Note that you should be crossing via Avenida México, not the adjacent highway shown in yellow on the map below.

Some resources online mention a 533 peso “exit tax” which I did see the officer charge French and Swiss tourists. Mexican citizens did not seem to have to pay the tax, and as a “residente temporal,” I wasn’t asked to pay it either. If you’re a tourist in Mexico though, be prepared to pay it in cash (pesos).

Once you’ve officially cleared immigration, you can proceed forward, where you’ll cross the Hondo River using a pedestrian and vehicle bridge. This river functions as the border between the two countries, so once you reach the other side, congratulations, you’re officially in Belize!

After you arrive, you’ll find the option to enter the “Belize Free Zone” to the left which appears to be a fenced-in duty-free shopping area (with a few sketchy looking casinos thrown in for good measure). It’s my understanding that if you don’t leave the Free Zone, you won’t be required to go through Belize immigration, but I’m not completely sure.

It's a kind of bizarre area...

I assume most travelers intend to continue on, in which case you will need to go through immigration. Unlike on the Mexican side, you need to cross in a vehicle and not on foot. Keep an eye out for cab drivers right after crossing the Hondo River. I was charged 500 pesos (approx. 25 USD) by the driver, who drove me to the immigration checkpoint located here, dropped me off, and waited for me pass through before taking me into Corozal. If that seems too expensive, you could try bargaining it down, but I didn’t see a ton of taxis to choose from.

Getting my passport stamped was fairly routine, although the Belizean immigration officer questioned why I was only going to Corozal for two days. After getting my passport stamped, I found my taxi driver waiting for me on the other side. We drove into Corozal, where he dropped me off at my hotel.

The guesthouse where I stayed in Corozal, which was lovely.

WARNING: There are resources online claiming that travelers can get on buses in Chetumal that will cross into Belize and go all the way to Belize City and beyond. I tried to find a bus, but there didn’t appear to be any options (at either the new or old ADO bus terminal in Chetumal). My taxi driver in Belize seemed to believe that the information in this blog was correct, namely that there have been diplomatic problems and arrests of bus drivers, causing bus companies to stop offering service between Chetumal and Belize.

In order to continue traveling further south of Corozal, my taxi driver recommended going to Corozal’s bus terminal. I did see some buses near the Free Zone with signs claiming they were going to Orange Walk, but I didn’t see anyone necessarily boarding them. Corozal to Belize City looks to be about a two-hour ride, but in order to find out the schedule you’d have to inquire in person at the Corozal bus terminal. Know that bus transport within Belize is likely to be in school buses, not Greyhound-style coaches.

UPDATE: According to a reader who commented on this post, one might also consider Marlin Espadas private bus tours, especially for crossing the border without so much hassle. I can’t comment on the experience since I didn’t travel with them, but it could potentially save some time if you’re in more of a rush.

Part II. Belize to Mexico

This border crossing was much more straightforward, mainly because the guesthouse I stayed in (The Waterfront SeaBreeze Guesthouse) had a driver I was able to hire to take me back and across the border on my return trip to Mexico. He charged 25 BZD (13 USD, see more on currency below), which was about half the cost of my first taxi driver in Belize. Talk with your hotel or Airbnb about arranging a driver if you need one.

Immigration was exactly the same in reverse, except there was a 40 BZD exit tax which had to be paid in cash and in Belizean dollars. There are a couple of ATMs in Corozal, so be sure to withdraw that before heading to the border.

Once you’ve crossed over the river and cleared Mexican customs, you’ll end up at the exact same place you started (if you are making a return trip like I did). Taxi drivers will be waiting there to take you to the airport or wherever you’re headed in Chetumal.

Other Information

Currency and Money

Belize uses the Belize dollar (BZD). One BZD is equal to 0.50 USD, so just divide the prices you see here in half to see their American equivalents. If you’ve never seen them before, you’ll enjoy the wild animals and scenes printed on their back sides.

If you’re headed to Corozal, there are at least three or four 24-hour ATMs where you can withdraw BZDs. Although a taxi driver waiting on the Belize side of the border is probably going to accept pesos, be sure to ask and confirm the price before getting in. As I mention above, you need to have 40 BZDs in hand to leave the country, so be sure to obtain that in town.

Taxis (They Can't Cross the Border)

No matter which way you’re going, taxi drivers don’t appear to be able to cross the border with you. You’ll need to hire two separate taxis: one in Mexico and one in Belize. My first taxi driver in Belize accepted payment in pesos, but I would guess that taxi drivers in Mexico wouldn’t accept Belize dollars. Try to obtain some pesos before crossing into Mexico if possible.

In Conclusion

A Calm Border With Little to No Up-to-date Info Online

I was surprised by how calm and quick the border crossing was in both directions. Officers were polite and relaxed, there were no lines to wait in, and immigration forms were straightforward. It was a nice change from the ridiculously long customs lines and frustration that you are likely to encounter in major airports.

Now that you’re an expert in how to cross from Mexico to Belize or vice versa, you’re probably wondering what can be found in the surrounding areas. For one, Chetumal appears to be a fairly standard mid-sized city in Mexico, but the relatively close village and lagoon of Bacalar is absolutely worth a visit if you have the time.

Bacalar, one of my favorite places in Mexico

On the Belizean side, Corozal is a laid-back and quiet town that reminded me of some of the small settlements I encountered in the Bahamas. The food is delicious, the locals are friendly, and the water here is a very unique shade of green. To read all about it in my next blog post, click here! If you have any questions about the border crossing, please leave a comment below!

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This post was published on Dec 12, 2018

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How To Spend 24 Hours On Isla Mujeres, Cancún’s Island Paradise https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-spend-24-hours-on-isla-mujeres-cancuns-island-paradise/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/how-to-spend-24-hours-on-isla-mujeres-cancuns-island-paradise/#comments Thu, 08 Nov 2018 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=3728 Most people would probably want to stay home and rest after spending a week in Greece, but not me! I spent the following weekend in Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Mexico’s most famous tourist destination, Cancún. Isla is easy to get to and offers a totally different experience...

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How to Spend 24 Hours on Isla Mujeres

Published November 8, 2018

Most people would probably want to stay home and rest after spending a week in Greece, but not me! I spent the following weekend in Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Mexico’s most famous tourist destination, Cancún. Isla is easy to get to and offers a totally different (and in some ways more authentic) experience from the Zona Hotelera, or Hotel Zone on the mainland.

Anyone planning to spend some time in Cancún should schedule a visit to this charming little island. Although most people only come for a day trip, I would recommend spending one night here if you can. A full 24 hours will give you time to see the island in its entirety without having to rush.

I originally planned on spending all of Saturday and Sunday on Isla Mujeres, but I found that by early afternoon on Sunday I was ready to go back to Cancún, where I explored a bit on foot and enjoyed a leisurely early dinner before heading back to the airport.

A typical hotel in Cancún

In this post, I’ll share with you how to get from Cancún to Isla Mujeres by ferry, the three different “parts” of the island, and some helpful tips for those who may want to spend the night.

Getting to Isla Mujeres by Ferry

As far as I could tell, the only way to travel to Isla Mujeres is by ferry (the airstrip on the island is decommissioned). I’m not sure if there are public, state-operated ferries, but I ended up traveling via Ultramar, a private company offering regular (e.g. every hour or so) trips to and from Isla from morning until evening.

I was surprised to discover that the ferry ride was actually an amazing experience; even if Isla Mujeres doesn’t interest you, this ferry ride is probably still worth the money because it’s a perfect opportunity to see the stunning blue waters that Cancún is so famous for. Just look at these views from the deck!

I ended up departing from the port on Playa Tortugas, pictured below and located here. Ultramar offers advance online booking, but if you do, be sure to print a paper copy of your ticket before you get to the dock! I forgot mine and it was a huge hassle for them to verify my purchase even with a confirmation number and email on my phone. They also offer tickets for sale the day of, and the passenger ferries are large enough that I don’t think they’d ever be fully booked. Expect to pay about 20 USD for a round-trip ticket.

The journey lasts about half an hour and you’ll disembark at the passenger ferry dock on the north side of the island. Once you’ve arrived, it’s time to start exploring!

Parts of the Island

As you can see from the map, Isla Mujeres is a very long and narrow island running from northwest to southeast. In my opinion, the island has three unofficial sections: the northern part, which has the best beach; the central part, where locals live; and the southern part, which is home to a little park.

North

The neighborhood located on the northern tip of the island is where most passengers arrive, and therefore the nearby town has an abundance of bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, and hotels.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpfPuchBw6L/

Be sure to check out the Playa Norte, which is the most stunning beach on the island. There is ample space to swim here, and afterwards take a rest at one of the many beachfront bars to dry off and have a drink.

Central

This portion of the island appears to be where most of the locals live, and I would consider it to be the most “authentically Mexican” part of Isla Mujeres.

It may have character, but I have to admit that it’s not particularly charming. However, this is where I ended up booking my Airbnb, and there were a few restaurants nearby that I ended up liking quite a bit.

Mango Café

This little place with an outdoor, covered seating area was perfect for breakfast. I ended up getting a chile en nogada, a traditional Mexican dish (stuffed green pepper) that has already made an appearance elsewhere in the blog.

Caribbean Brisas

This cozy restaurant was a perfect place for dinner. They had a large menu with pizza, pasta, seafood, and more, and the shrimp pasta I tried was amazing. Most other diners appeared to be tourists, but don’t let this stop you from checking this place out!

Ice Bar: The Signs Are Misleading!

If you spend a bit of time exploring the island, you’re going to see huge signs for Ice Bar, including pictures of ice sculptures and a bar made out of ice. I can’t say if they ever do have those attractions, but when I visited, they didn’t. It still has a nice enough beach, shown below, but don’t expect everything that’s advertised.

South

This is the least developed part of the island, but I really enjoyed walking along the road adjacent to the eastern shore in this area. The views of the ocean here are just so pretty, although the water doesn’t look very suitable for swimming.

If you make it all the way down to the very southern point of the island, you’ll have the option to check out the Punta Sur park. It costs a few dollars to get in, but don’t miss out if you’ve already come this far! The park has interesting sculptures as well some beautiful rocky shoreline. This park is also home to the easternmost point in Mexico, which is marked by a sign.

Despite being less urbanized, the southern third of the island is home to a number of bars and restaurants. One bar I liked was The Joint, which had a fun reggae theme as well as a live band when I went. Their watermelon-jalapeño margarita was delicious and refreshing after a long walk from the central portion of the island.

There are a number of other options if you end up getting hungry while exploring the southern end of the island. I stopped into one restaurant on the western shore and tried some oysters, which ended up being quite good. Whether you want seafood or not, you’ll be able to find something to satisfy your appetite if you keep an eye out in this area.

Tips for Spending More than an Afternoon Here

I ended up staying for one night in an Airbnb in the central part of the island. The home itself was very comfortable, but the area looked like it might not be the best to wander around after dark, so I went to bed early after having dinner at Caribbean Brisas. I would suggest those who want to spend a night on Isla Mujeres look for hotels or Airbnbs on the northern part of the island.

The street my Airbnb was on.

Although I ended up exploring the entire island from Playa Norte to Punta Sur on foot, golf carts seemed to be the most common form of transportation. I enjoy walking, but most people would probably prefer the comfort and speed of a rental. I can’t recommend one company over another since I didn’t book one, but there were so many there that I’m sure you could find options online, or even book a rental upon arrival in person; there were salesmen waiting for passengers right at the ferry dock.

If you don’t want to walk in between towns but aren’t interested in renting a golf cart, there are taxis on the island that can be flagged down as they drive by.

One benefit of spending the night on Isla Mujeres is that you’ll get to see the amazing sunset. Since Cancun’s shoreline faces east, the western shores of Isla Mujeres make it the best place in the area to watch the sunset over the water.

This ended up being a pretty short post, but Isla Mujeres is a small and wonderfully uncomplicated place. The Playa Norte and the eastern shore are its most beautiful spots, although the Punta Sur park deserves honorable mention. For travelers looking for gorgeous Mexican Caribbean waters and a truly relaxed island vibe, Isla Mujeres is the answer to your prayers!

Keep an eye out for my next post covering another famous beach destination in Mexico, this one on the Pacific coast. Have any thoughts or questions on Isla Mujeres, or a suggestion on any destination you’d like to see in the future? Leave a comment below and let me know!

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This post was published on Nov 8, 2018

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Weekend In Bacalar: A Breathtaking Lagoon 20 Miles North Of Belize https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/weekend-in-bacalar-a-breathtaking-lagoon-20-miles-north-of-belize/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/weekend-in-bacalar-a-breathtaking-lagoon-20-miles-north-of-belize/#comments Thu, 26 Jul 2018 17:00:00 +0000 http://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=2303 Greetings amigos! If this is your first time visiting Caffeinated Excursions, welcome to my travel blog! Today I’ll be sharing one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets with you: Bacalar! This little village is located only half an hour’s drive north of Mexico’s border with Belize in the state of Quintana Roo...

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Weekend In Bacalar: A Breathtaking Lagoon 20 Miles North Of Belize

Published July 26, 2018

Greetings amigos! If this is your first time visiting Caffeinated Excursions, welcome to my travel blog! Today I’ll be sharing one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets with you: Bacalar! This little village is located only half an hour’s drive north of Mexico’s border with Belize in the state of Quintana Roo, which is home to internationally-renowned vacation destinations such as Cancún, Cozumel, Tulum, and Playa del Carmen.

What makes Bacalar a unique destination among these shining stars is the fact that it’s situated on the shores of a lagoon. Not only is Bacalar Lagoon a perfect place for outdoor activities, but its beauty rivals some of the most gorgeous beaches throughout the Caribbean. What’s more, it really has a low profile even within Mexico: some of my coworkers in Mexico City hadn’t even heard of it before. Although there were clearly a lot of visitors there, Bacalar didn’t feel at all overrun by tourists, tacky resorts, and the like.

This was my second excursion based out of Mexico City, and it very well may end up on my list of all-time favorite destinations in the country. I only spent a weekend here, but I felt like two days was the perfect amount of time to soak up the sun and the chill vibes of this little town! Even though it was a good place for a solo traveler, I hope to bring friends real soon!

The Lagoon of Seven Colors

Bacalar Lagoon will undoubtedly be the highlight of your trip. Normally I spend my weekend trips running around towns trying to absorb as much of the culture and atmosphere as I can in a 48-hour period, but not in Bacalar. Here, the lagoon is what took up most of my waking hours in some form or another. It is known in Spanish as “la laguna de los siete colores” due to the strikingly distinct shades of blue that can be seen on the water’s surface.

Since the lagoon is east of town, you won't see amazing waterfront sunsets. However, if you're able to wake up early enough, the sunrise is truly spectacular!

For a Truly Outdoors Experience, Try Camping

No matter what you do, stay at a lodging on the waterfront. There aren’t really public beaches on the lagoon, so it’ll be hard to access the beach if you stay elsewhere. It also looked like most hotels on the water offered boat tours, kayaking, and paddleboard rentals. Your best bet is to stay on the Costera, a road that runs south of town along the shoreline adjacent to Highway 307.

I ended up at a unique place on Costera called Blue Bird (shown on map above), which offered cabanas as well as tents for camping (tent reservations available on Airbnb). It was a bit rustic, but still a lot of fun! As far as campgrounds go, this one felt pretty luxurious (the tents had electric outlets, lights, and fans; the bathroom was indoors; and the showers were clean).

Blue Bird has a dock right on the lagoon shore as well as complimentary kayak rentals among other amenities. The water was super warm, so be sure to spend some time on/in the lagoon in some form or another!

Los Cocalitos (A "Public" Beach)

This was the closest thing I found to a public beach despite the small entrance fee to get in (35 pesos per adult). The views inside are definitely worth it, though. There is also a little café inside where I had lunch on Sunday.

Cenote Azul

If you travel further south on the Costera than Cocalitos you’ll eventually end up at the Cenote Azul. Cenotes are similar to blue holes, and this one functions as a freshwater source to the adjacent lagoon. You can get a good view from the parking lot up on the hill, but if you want to swim in it you have to pay 50 pesos.

The Cenote Azul in the foreground and the lagoon in the background.

It’s interesting and there’s a bar and grill past the entrance gate, but if you’re short on time I’d say you can skip this one. Cocalitos, which is only a ten or fifteen minute-walk from the Cenote Azul, is definitely a better place  to spend an afternoon.

The Center of Town

I honestly didn’t spend much time exploring the center of town. You may venture over here for breakfast or lunch, but a bunch of the hotels on the Costera have their own restaurants (more on food below) so you don’t have to if you don’t want to make the half-hour trek north. I had brunch at El Manatí, which I honestly liked more for its atmosphere than the fairly average molletes I ordered.

The other main attraction in town is a fort called the “Fuerte de San Felipe Bacalar.” It’s pretty typical as far as forts go, but there is one watchtower that has a pretty nice view of this portion of the lagoon. Entrance was 100 pesos for foreigners.

Restaurants

I would’ve tried another place in town or two, but many of the hotels near Blue Bird had good-quality restaurants (unfortunately, Blue Bird only seemed to serve drinks in the afternoon). My favorite was the Casa Tortuga, where I had a really satisfying burger and fries for a late lunch on Saturday.

I also liked the simple yet fresh breakfast I had at Casa Lahar, and the spicy shrimp I had at the Cocalitos was pretty good too. Feel free to have a drink as well – they’re cheap no matter where you go!

Fried shrimp served at another hotel restaurant along the Costera.

The map to Paradise

I was able to find a round-trip nonstop flight from Mexico City to Chetumal on Interjet that left on Friday night and returned on Sunday night. When you get to the airport in Chetumal, inquire about a shared taxi. It will only cost you 150 pesos and if you are the only one headed to Bacalar, you’ll still get a private taxi without having to pay more. 

On the way back, Blue Bird called a taxi to return to the airport which cost 300 pesos. The ride between Chetumal International Airport and Bacalar should take about thirty or forty minutes. Within Bacalar, you can take taxis if you want or need to, but everything of interest is within walking distance, especially if you stay roughly halfway between the center of town and Cenote Azul.

In Bacalar, you’ll find a laid-back town, welcoming locals, and a lagoon that is honestly prettier than most oceanside beaches. Like in Puerto Escondido, I never ran into any safety concerns but remained alert. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below! If you want to stay up to date with future adventures including explorations of the “real” Mexico, follow Caffeinated Excursions on Facebook and Instagram! Gracias y hasta luego!

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This post was published on July 26, 2018

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