South Caicos Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/south-caicos/ Blog of a Traveling Coffee Addict Sat, 10 Aug 2024 18:31:42 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://i0.wp.com/caffeinatedexcursions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/wp-1555570621336.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 South Caicos Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tag/south-caicos/ 32 32 141833777 Why I Had Mixed Feelings About South Caicos https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/mixed-feelings-south-caicos/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/mixed-feelings-south-caicos/#respond Tue, 06 Mar 2018 18:00:00 +0000 http://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=581 South Caicos is an island that is slightly bigger than Grand Turk and closer to Providenciales. Like Grand Turk, it has some amazing salt salinas and its share of cool wildlife (e.g., donkeys). It feels more remote...

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Why I Had Mixed Feelings About South Caicos

Published March 6, 2018

South Caicos is an island that is slightly bigger than Grand Turk and closer to Providenciales. Like Grand Turk, it has some amazing salt salinas and its share of cool wildlife (e.g., donkeys). It feels more remote and disconnected though, since unlike Grand Turk, there is no cruise ship port. The natural beauty of South Caicos is hard to overstate and was my favorite thing about the island. However, the lack of lodging is its most significant drawback. The poor condition of Cockburn Harbour, the island’s only town, also made me wonder if the resorts there were helping the local economy.

While I was planning my island hopping adventure, I was mainly concerned with maximizing my footprint and seeing as many islands as I could. When I realized that I could squeeze in one night in South Caicos, I booked my ticket on InterCaribbean right away. My suggestion to you is: don’t do that. I highly recommend that you research lodging options before booking flights to smaller islands like Grand Turk, South Caicos, or Salt Cay. The following is a summary of what I liked, what I didn’t like, and some suggestions for anyone who has their heart set on this quiet and unusual island.

What I Liked

The majority of South Caicos has little to no development, so the natural areas outside of Cockburn Harbour are beautiful. If you rent a bike or car here, you’ll be able to see the whole island in one day. Like Grand Turk, some of the most unique and memorable parts of South Caicos are the remnants of salinas and the wild donkeys that wander the island.

Most of the island has a very rugged and dry landscape, without tall trees or dense forest.

Although I had issues with hotels which I’ll get into more below, the staff and even other guests at the East Bay Resort were all very friendly and accommodating. The bar there also made one of the best espresso martinis I’ve ever had. In terms of transportation, I was glad that East Bay provided complimentary bike rentals and complimentary airport pickup, so I didn’t have to go through the trouble of trying to rent a car on the island.

What I Didn't Like

My biggest complaint about the island is that there were only three very expensive hotels here, and the cheapest one I could find (East Bay Resort) still cost a whopping $330 for a single night. Needless to say, it was a very nice hotel, but hardly worth that much money. There appears to be one cheaper hotel (the South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort) that I would advise you to check before you shell out this kind of cash, but no rooms there were available when I booked.

The pool and restaurant at East Bay Resort, an upscale but (in my opinion) overly pricey hotel on South Caicos.

As of February 2018, there doesn’t appear to be a single Airbnb on the island. This was a pity because Airbnb hosts are generally accustomed to solo travelers and act as a bridge between visitors and their home communities. In contrast, it felt a bit weird to stay in a resort as a solo traveler, since every other guest was there with a significant other or family.

I also felt a bit uncomfortable when I saw the disparity between East Bay and Cockburn Harbour, where almost all residents of the island live. Unlike the resort, most of the homes and buildings in town look pretty run down. Whether this was due to hurricane damage or an inability to pay for upkeep, it really made me wonder if the resorts take priority for resources that come to the island at the expense of residents. There didn’t seem to be much to do in town either, which made it feel very sleepy and melancholy.

The evening sun shines through windows of an abandoned, roofless apartment building in Cockburn Harbour.

Suggestions for Visitors

First, check Airbnb! My hope is that someone on the island will open one, which would give travelers a more affordable option and also contribute more to the local economy. If you don’t see any, call the South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort and see if they have any vacancies.

The Dolphin Grill on site here is a great place to eat (and drink some tropical cocktails) if you’d rather not pay for a ritzy meal at a resort. The Sunset Cafe is essentially the only restaurant in town, although I didn’t get to try it because they are closed Sundays.

Steamed conch, peas and rice, and mac n' cheese at the Dolphin Grill.

I also suggest that you spend some time really absorbing the atmosphere of Cockburn Harbour even if you do end up staying at a resort. It’s a good opportunity to see an authentic island town and some of the challenges it faces, especially when tourism isn’t the primary industry (which I believe is fishing). You’re doing yourself a disservice if you leave the island thinking that the local community is as upscale as your hotel. You’ll also meet some of the friendliest people in the TCI who aren’t afraid to welcome a visitor to their community.

And lastly, be sure to check out the northern end of the island for some natural beauty! The single road on the peninsula runs along a calm shallow bay to the west, but try and make it over to the eastern coast as well to see some truly stunning reefs and the deep blue ocean.

Sometimes a trip can be bittersweet, which this island was for me. Even though South Caicos and Grand Turk share similarities, I must say that I had more fun exploring the latter. If you decide to come here, make sure you know what your options are for accommodation and transportation. And even if a place you visit isn’t a perfect fit, it can still be a great opportunity to learn about a new community and catch a glimpse of life in a unique corner of the world.

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This post was published on Mar 6, 2018

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5 Reasons To Go Island Hopping In The Turks And Caicos https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/island-hopping-turks-and-caicos/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/island-hopping-turks-and-caicos/#comments Sat, 03 Mar 2018 18:00:00 +0000 http://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=498 Despite its reputation as a laid-back Caribbean paradise, the Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) is a perfect destination for travelers seeking adventure! Comprised of two tiny island chains southeast of the Bahamas, this British Overseas Territory is easy to get to from the US and perfect for island hopping...

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5 Reasons To Go Island Hopping In The Turks And Caicos

Published March 3, 2018

Despite its reputation as a laid-back Caribbean paradise, the Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) is a perfect destination for travelers seeking adventure! Comprised of two tiny island chains southeast of the Bahamas, this British Overseas Territory is easy to get to from the US and perfect for island hopping. Flights from one end of the country to the other are only 30 minutes long, and each island has its own unique spirit. Once you land, you can rent a car, golf cart, or bike depending on the island and start exploring right away.

I flew in on American Airlines (direct from Charlotte) and flew home on Delta (with a layover in Atlanta) for about $330 round-trip. All major US carriers fly to the international airport on Providenciales (PLS), so shop around and don’t settle for outrageous airfare! Once you’re there, you can island hop using InterCaribbean Airways or Caicos Express Airways. I spent four nights in the TCI and in that time I visited three islands: Providenciales, Grand Turk, and South Caicos.

So why forego the comfort of a resort? After all, you’re going to have to do more planning as an island hopper. The short answer is that visiting the remote islands is a different experience than staying in Grace Bay, the area of Providenciales (often called ‘Provo‘) where most resorts are clustered. So without further ado, here are five reasons why you should definitely go island hopping in the Turks and Caicos!

1. It's easy to explore on your own terms (with a little preparation)

The TCI is great for on-the-go adventures because each island is small enough that it can be seen in one or two days. They’re also very close to one another, so flights between the islands are short and sweet! Unfortunately, the islands lack public transportation, so you’ll have to arrange rental vehicles (and be sure to book beforehand). Luckily, I’ll tell you what worked for me on each island.

Provo

You’ll want to rent a car, as the island is about 13 miles long from east to west. You’ll drive on the left side of the road like in the UK, but you may receive an American-style rental (with steering wheel on the left) or a British-style car (steering wheel on the right). This might sound scary, but I found that driving a British car was much more intuitive than I thought it would be. I had good experiences with Grace Bay Car Rentals, which cost about $65 per day. They conveniently offer airport pickup and drop-off.

Grand Turk

Most tourists here rent golf carts since the island is only 7 miles from north to south and 2 miles wide. Roads are a little rougher here than on Provo, but are still navigable. Golf carts won’t protect against rain and I experienced some technical difficulties with mine (I was given a partial refund for the trouble). I booked through my Airbnb host and was told the standard rate on the island is about $80 per day.

South Caicos

The hotel where I stayed (East Bay Resort) offered complimentary bicycle rentals. Although South Caicos is fully accessible by bike, prepare to be exhausted by the end of the day! The bicycles weren’t in pristine condition and you may have to ride on a dirt road or two. Paved roads also have some potholes, so be careful.

Once you’ve booked all your vehicles, you’re ready to go exploring! My favorite spot was Sapodilla Hill on Provo. You’ll start at what appears to be a wooded hillside, but if you duck under branches and follow what looks like the remnants of a forgotten foot trail, you will find yourself on a very overgrown path. Keep working your way up the hill for 360-degree views of the surrounding Chalk Sound, Sapodilla Bay, and the open ocean to the south.

From Sapodilla Hill looking towards Chalk Sound (right) and Sapodilla Bay Beach (left).

Two other cool areas were the northwestern peninsula on Grand Turk and the northern peninsula on South Caicos. Both areas were very relaxing and almost completely devoid of human activity. Blue Hills Road in Provo was also a scenic beachfront drive that had some interesting architecture. As long as you’re willing to venture away from the touristy spots, you shouldn’t have any trouble making your own discoveries!

Wilderness on the north end of Grand Turk.
An empty, winding road on the island of South Caicos.
A view from Blue Hills Road in Providenciales.

2. Try conch in its many forms (and other delicious cuisine)

Conch is a true delicacy that you have to try during your trip! It can be found on menus in almost every restaurant and comes in many varieties: cracked conch, steamed conch, conch fritters, and conch salad. My favorite is cracked conch, which reminds me of calamari. A great place to go on Provo is da Conch Shack, which has a combo on their menu consisting of cracked conch, fritters, and a really good dipping sauce. As always, you can’t go wrong with a side of peas and rice!

Conch combo (left) and fries with black bean and chili sauce (right) at da Conch Shack.

The steamed conch I had at the Dolphin Grill in South Caicos was also a delicious and hearty meal. If you’re looking for something fresh and light, go with a conch salad, which is usually prepared with diced tomatoes, onions, and cucumber.

Steamed conch from the Dolphin Grill on South Caicos.
More cracked conch ordered from the Salt Raker Inn on Grand Turk.
If you're tired of conch, try a Cuban burger from Las Brisas restaurant on Chalk Sound, Providenciales.

3. The scenery is amazing (especially from a plane window)

As I’m sure you can tell by now, there’s beautiful places to discover all over the islands. Turn a corner and you’re bound to stumble upon a beach that looks like it belongs in a travel magazine. But I think the most breathtaking views are actually seen from the air. If you take a domestic flight on InterCaribbean or Caicos Express, you will take a small propeller plane like this:

You may even get to see the cockpit if you take a smaller plane, which seats about 15 to 20 passengers.

These planes fly at low elevations compared to commercial jetliners, so you’ll have some really incredible views of the geography of the islands as you fly over them.

Take a look at a map of the TCI, and you’ll see that when flying from Provo to any other island, you’ll want to sit in a window seat on the left side of the plane for the best views of the islands. When you fly back, sit on the right. Since InterCaribbean has open seating, you should be able to get your pick as long as you’re in the front of the line to board!

One of the most striking things I noticed was the stark contrast between the turquoise color of the shallow waters surrounding the islands and the rich, navy blue of the deeper open ocean. This is especially apparent if you fly to Grand Turk, but can be seen even if you fly within the Caicos Islands.

4. Wild animals abound on the more remote islands

If you’re an animal lover, this is a prime reason to check out an island other than Provo! While on Grand Turk and South Caicos, I saw wild donkeys, horses, cows, dogs, cats, lizards, fish, and tropical birds. Donkeys that roam the islands are a remnant of the bustling salt industry of centuries past. They are not afraid of humans or aggressive, although if you get too close to take a picture, they will trot away.

5. The sunsets are gorgeous!

This is pretty self-explanatory, but check when the sun sets and position yourself on a western-facing beach 10 or 15 minutes before that. Relax, take it all in, and cool down after a long day.

So there you have it! Hopefully I’ve enticed you to at least consider the Turks and Caicos Islands for your next getaway. If you’re looking for more information about each island, click one of the links below to learn more:

Additional Information

Here are a few other tidbits of knowledge that might make your trip smoother.

  • The currency of the Turks and Caicos Islands is the US dollar. Cash is good to have on hand especially if you want to check out some mom and pop shops, but resorts and touristy areas will accept credit cards.
  • I recommend withdrawing extra cash from an ATM on Providenciales before flying to smaller islands. Read more about ATMs here.
  • As a budget traveler, I have to warn you that traveling the islands is expensive. Rental vehicles are a must, and budget accommodation is hard to find. Expect to pay at least $60 a day for a vehicle, and at least $100 a night for lodging (even at Airbnbs). Overall, I think the total cost of my trip for 5 days was about $1800.
  • Residents of Caribbean countries tend to be devout, so most businesses will be closed on Sundays (some restaurants may open for lunch after church). Take care of shopping and errands on Saturday to avoid conflicts.
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This post was published on Mar 3, 2018

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