Turks and Caicos Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

Why I Had Mixed Feelings About South Caicos

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Tue, 06 Mar 2018 18:00:00 +0000

Why I Had Mixed Feelings About South Caicos

Published March 6, 2018

South Caicos is an island that is slightly bigger than Grand Turk and closer to Providenciales. Like Grand Turk, it has some amazing salt salinas and its share of cool wildlife (e.g., donkeys). It feels more remote and disconnected though, since unlike Grand Turk, there is no cruise ship port. The natural beauty of South Caicos is hard to overstate and was my favorite thing about the island. However, the lack of lodging is its most significant drawback. The poor condition of Cockburn Harbour, the island’s only town, also made me wonder if the resorts there were helping the local economy.

While I was planning my island hopping adventure, I was mainly concerned with maximizing my footprint and seeing as many islands as I could. When I realized that I could squeeze in one night in South Caicos, I booked my ticket on InterCaribbean right away. My suggestion to you is: don’t do that. I highly recommend that you research lodging options before booking flights to smaller islands like Grand Turk, South Caicos, or Salt Cay. The following is a summary of what I liked, what I didn’t like, and some suggestions for anyone who has their heart set on this quiet and unusual island.

What I Liked

The majority of South Caicos has little to no development, so the natural areas outside of Cockburn Harbour are beautiful. If you rent a bike or car here, you’ll be able to see the whole island in one day. Like Grand Turk, some of the most unique and memorable parts of South Caicos are the remnants of salinas and the wild donkeys that wander the island.

Most of the island has a very rugged and dry landscape, without tall trees or dense forest.

Although I had issues with hotels which I’ll get into more below, the staff and even other guests at the East Bay Resort were all very friendly and accommodating. The bar there also made one of the best espresso martinis I’ve ever had. In terms of transportation, I was glad that East Bay provided complimentary bike rentals and complimentary airport pickup, so I didn’t have to go through the trouble of trying to rent a car on the island.

What I Didn't Like

My biggest complaint about the island is that there were only three very expensive hotels here, and the cheapest one I could find (East Bay Resort) still cost a whopping $330 for a single night. Needless to say, it was a very nice hotel, but hardly worth that much money. There appears to be one cheaper hotel (the South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort) that I would advise you to check before you shell out this kind of cash, but no rooms there were available when I booked.

As of February 2018, there doesn’t appear to be a single Airbnb on the island. This was a pity because Airbnb hosts are generally accustomed to solo travelers and act as a bridge between visitors and their home communities. In contrast, it felt a bit weird to stay in a resort as a solo traveler, since every other guest was there with a significant other or family.

I also felt a bit uncomfortable when I saw the disparity between East Bay and Cockburn Harbour, where almost all residents of the island live. Unlike the resort, most of the homes and buildings in town look pretty run down. Whether this was due to hurricane damage or an inability to pay for upkeep, it really made me wonder if the resorts take priority for resources that come to the island at the expense of residents. There didn’t seem to be much to do in town either, which made it feel very sleepy and melancholy.

Suggestions for Visitors

First, check Airbnb! My hope is that someone on the island will open one, which would give travelers a more affordable option and also contribute more to the local economy. If you don’t see any, call the South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort and see if they have any vacancies.

The Dolphin Grill on site here is a great place to eat (and drink some tropical cocktails) if you’d rather not pay for a ritzy meal at a resort. The Sunset Cafe is essentially the only restaurant in town, although I didn’t get to try it because they are closed Sundays.

I also suggest that you spend some time really absorbing the atmosphere of Cockburn Harbour even if you do end up staying at a resort. It’s a good opportunity to see an authentic island town and some of the challenges it faces, especially when tourism isn’t the primary industry (which I believe is fishing). You’re doing yourself a disservice if you leave the island thinking that the local community is as upscale as your hotel. You’ll also meet some of the friendliest people in the TCI who aren’t afraid to welcome a visitor to their community.

And lastly, be sure to check out the northern end of the island for some natural beauty! The single road on the peninsula runs along a calm shallow bay to the west, but try and make it over to the eastern coast as well to see some truly stunning reefs and the deep blue ocean.

Sometimes a trip can be bittersweet, which this island was for me. Even though South Caicos and Grand Turk share similarities, I must say that I had more fun exploring the latter. If you decide to come here, make sure you know what your options are for accommodation and transportation. And even if a place you visit isn’t a perfect fit, it can still be a great opportunity to learn about a new community and catch a glimpse of life in a unique corner of the world.

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This post was published on Mar 6, 2018

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

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The 24-Hour Guide To Grand Turk

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Mon, 05 Mar 2018 18:00:00 +0000

The 24-Hour Guide To Grand Turk

Published March 5, 2018

Although I only spent one night here, Grand Turk was probably my favorite island of the three I visited during my island hopping adventure in the Turks and Caicos. Despite being home to a major cruise ship terminal, Grand Turk was much less commercialized than Providenciales. It still felt more lively than South Caicos, and I was able to stay in a really amazing Airbnb with a great host.

For better or for worse, I don’t have a true list of attractions to recommend for Grand Turk. There were a number of things I wanted to see, such as the highly recommended Turks and Caicos National Museum, Her Majesty’s Prison, and the Historic Lighthouse. For various reasons, I didn’t make it to any of these, but I still really enjoyed the time I spent exploring the island.

Instead, I spent most of my time driving around the island in a golf cart and enjoying the amazing beaches and natural beauty of the island. In this short post, I’ll mention the areas of Grand Turk I explored as well as the things I missed this trip.

Things I Saw in 24 Hours

Beaches

It should come as no surprise that Grand Turk is home to some incredibly beautiful beaches. I found the water here much prettier than Grace Bay on Provo. What’s even better is that all of the ones I saw were completely undeveloped. The easiest beaches to access for visitors are the ones on the western shore of the island.

Grand Turk's Northwestern Peninsula

If you take a look at the map of Grand Turk, you’ll notice that the northern half of the island is divided into two peninsulas by a body of water called North Creek that’s connected to the ocean. The western one is home to a lot of wilderness, which was interesting to explore via the golf cart I rented.

At its northern end is a nice beach that I had all to myself. When I was there, I spotted some fun pirate decorations, but I’m not sure if they’re permanent installments.

Front Street

In the island’s town center, Front Street is the main thoroughfare that offers ocean views. Check out the distinctive pastel-colored souvenir shops, or read some of the many signs that explain the historical significance of the older buildings located here.

Restaurants

Since I only spent a day on Grand Turk, I basically only got to try two restaurants. For lunch, I went to the Salt Raker Inn and enjoyed the cracked conch I got there.

For dinner, I tried Barbie’s Bar & Restaurant on Front Street. I had a small dinner of conch salad and rum punch, which cost $10 in total.

Salinas

Like South Caicos, Grand Turk is home to quite a few salinas, which are man-made structures used to extract salt from the ocean. They look like shallow ponds and often appear in a grid-like structure. I personally found them to be prettier on South Caicos, but they’re still interesting to see on Grand Turk as well.

Things I Missed

Turks and Caicos National Museum

Grand Turk is actually home to the capital ‘city’ of the Turks and Caicos Islands, known as Cockburn Town. It’s a little unexpected because the settlement is so small, but this is probably the reason why the Turks and Caicos National Museum is housed here on Grand Turk. Almost all reviews of the museum online are glowing, so I was disappointed to find that it was closed for hurricane repairs when I was there. If it’s open while you’re on Grand Turk, be sure to go and leave a comment below letting me know how it is!

Her Majesty's Prison Museum

The prison is another historical relic that can be found in the center of Cockburn Town. If it’s open, it might be worth checking out.

Grand Turk Lighthouse

I’m a bit of a lighthouse fan (as random as that may be), so I was excited to go check out the Grand Turk Lighthouse even though visitors aren’t allowed to go inside or climb it. Unfortunately, my golf cart started experiencing technical difficulties on the way from Cockburn Town, so I lost an hour or two of exploring time and never got to see the lighthouse up close. I did however, see it from a distance when I was exploring the northwestern peninsula. It’s peeking out above the trees in the upper-right corner of the (admittedly out-of-focus) image below.

Grand Turk Cruise Center

I was also interested in checking out the cruise terminal, but I drove up to what looked like a security gate at some point on the main road heading there. I didn’t get out and ask if I could drive my golf cart through, but I suspect that it might be off-limits to non-cruise visitors.

Other Info

Airbnb

One of the highlights of my short stay was the Airbnb I found. Faith Anne and Ed were such welcoming hosts, and the studio above their home they rent out is beautiful. To see the listing on Airbnb, click here.

A Short yet Picturesque Flight

As I mentioned in my general Turks and Caicos island hopping guide, the domestic flights from Providenciales to the other islands are incredibly beautiful. On the way there, be sure to sit in a window seat on the left side of the plane for the best views!

Getting Around by Golf Cart

Most tourists here rent golf carts since the island is only 7 miles from north to south and 2 miles wide. Golf carts won’t protect against rain and I experienced some technical difficulties with mine (I was given a partial refund for the trouble). I booked through my Airbnb host and was told the standard rate on the island is about $80 per day. I highly recommend paying for roaming data in case you get stranded on one of the island’s further corners and need to call someone to pick you up.

I’m hoping this post has convinced you that you should consider visiting Grand Turk if you’re heading to the Turks and Caicos! The island does receive visitors, but most probably only stay for a few hours while their cruise ship is docked for the day. If you can spend a full day or two on Grand Turk, you’ll get a more complete picture of this small yet beautiful island.

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This post was published on Mar 5, 2018

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

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Providenciales: Your Home Base For Island Hopping

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sun, 04 Mar 2018 18:00:00 +0000

Providenciales: Your Home Base For Island Hopping

Published March 4, 2018

The Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) are perfect for island-hopping (see 5 reasons why). But regardless of your travel plans, you’ll probably spend some time on the island of Providenciales, home to the country’s main international airport. As the center of tourism, Provo (as it’s informally called) has the most development and commercialization. However, there are numerous opportunities to get away from the resorts clustered in Grace Bay and see some really beautiful hidden spots. You’ll need to reserve a rental car before you arrive in order to get around (I recommend Grace Bay Car Rentals). If you do decide to island-hop, one or two nights on Provo is sufficient to get a sense of the spirit of the island.

Read on to discover the touristy spots I liked, some amazing tucked-away areas, and where to stay without splurging on lodging.

Touristy Stuff

Most of the tourism infrastructure is centered around Grace Bay, which has a long white-sand beach and dozens of high-end resorts. Spend an hour or so walking along the beach just to say you’ve been, but I honestly didn’t think it deserved the hype it gets. There’s public parking at this location if you’re coming by car.

If you’re looking for a good breakfast in the area, you can to go to Caicos Bakery. When I arrived, the nicest lady with a strong French accent helped me pick out exactly what I wanted. And man, the pastries were good! It looked like they had coffee, but I decided to try the Lemon2Go Coffee Shop instead, which was a bit expensive but their iced latte was very refreshing.

One restaurant I went to that clearly catered to vacationers but was still quite good was Las Brisas. They are located at the Neptune Villas overlooking Chalk Sound, which in my opinion is a much more beautiful area than Grace Bay. I just had a burger, fries, and a drink, but they were all delicious. The nearby Sapodilla Bay Beach is also worth a visit.

This restaurant is also a short walk from one of my favorite hidden spots, which brings me to…

The Road Less Traveled

My absolute favorite spot on Provo is literally off the beaten path; you’ll have to climb up a hill through brush on a trail that barely exists anymore, and the sign marking the trail head was lying flat on the ground when I went, but the views from the top are absolutely worth it. I’m talking about Sapodilla Bay Hill, which offers 360-degree views of Chalk Sound to the north, Sapodilla Bay to the west, and the open ocean to the south.

Another interesting place is Blue Hills Road. It only takes a few minutes to drive along, but it felt like a local stretch of homes, businesses, churches, and other buildings relatively untouched by tourism.

If you’re looking for local cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere, consider da Conch Shack. Like the Bahamas, the Turks and Caicos Islands are famous for conch, so don’t leave without trying some! This place has a lot of outdoor seating and is a few miles away from the main hotel strip, so it wasn’t crowded at all for dinner the day I went.

There are also a bunch of hole-in-the-wall places scattered across Provo. For lunch one day I ended up eating a grilled fish combo at a mom and pop restaurant a few blocks from the airport. Visit one or two if you’re feeling adventurous and looking for something closer to a homecooked meal!

Where to StaY

As I mention in my other post, the Turks and Caicos Islands aren’t really a cheap destination. With that said, there are still some options if you’re trying to avoid the high prices of beachfront resorts. First and foremost, check Airbnb. I couldn’t find anything for less than about $100 per night, but you might be able to find a better deal.

If you have an island hopping “layover” in Provo (e.g., you arrive in the late afternoon and leave for another island early the next morning) and you don’t want to rent a car, you might stay at the Sunset Ridge Hotel. It’s a bare-bones hotel that’s literally a two or three-minute walk from the check-in area at the airport. You might have to walk a bit to find food, but there are some restaurants further down Airport Road to the east. It still cost me $175 for one night, so consider the cost of a rental car when making your decision.

These are just a few ideas for a stay on Providenciales! It’s a beautiful island and one that most visitors to the Turks and Caicos will at least pass through. Be sure to check out some of its more remote corners! And if you’re going to come here, you might as well make the short journey to another island as well! My recommendation is Grand Turk (read more here).

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This post was published on Mar 4, 2018

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post Providenciales: Your Home Base For Island Hopping appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

5 Reasons To Go Island Hopping In The Turks And Caicos

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 03 Mar 2018 18:00:00 +0000

5 Reasons To Go Island Hopping In The Turks And Caicos

Published March 3, 2018

Despite its reputation as a laid-back Caribbean paradise, the Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) is a perfect destination for travelers seeking adventure! Comprised of two tiny island chains southeast of the Bahamas, this British Overseas Territory is easy to get to from the US and perfect for island hopping. Flights from one end of the country to the other are only 30 minutes long, and each island has its own unique spirit. Once you land, you can rent a car, golf cart, or bike depending on the island and start exploring right away.

I flew in on American Airlines (direct from Charlotte) and flew home on Delta (with a layover in Atlanta) for about $330 round-trip. All major US carriers fly to the international airport on Providenciales (PLS), so shop around and don’t settle for outrageous airfare! Once you’re there, you can island hop using InterCaribbean Airways or Caicos Express Airways. I spent four nights in the TCI and in that time I visited three islands: Providenciales, Grand Turk, and South Caicos.

So why forego the comfort of a resort? After all, you’re going to have to do more planning as an island hopper. The short answer is that visiting the remote islands is a different experience than staying in Grace Bay, the area of Providenciales (often called ‘Provo‘) where most resorts are clustered. So without further ado, here are five reasons why you should definitely go island hopping in the Turks and Caicos!

1. It's easy to explore on your own terms (with a little preparation)

The TCI is great for on-the-go adventures because each island is small enough that it can be seen in one or two days. They’re also very close to one another, so flights between the islands are short and sweet! Unfortunately, the islands lack public transportation, so you’ll have to arrange rental vehicles (and be sure to book beforehand). Luckily, I’ll tell you what worked for me on each island.

Provo

You’ll want to rent a car, as the island is about 13 miles long from east to west. You’ll drive on the left side of the road like in the UK, but you may receive an American-style rental (with steering wheel on the left) or a British-style car (steering wheel on the right). This might sound scary, but I found that driving a British car was much more intuitive than I thought it would be. I had good experiences with Grace Bay Car Rentals, which cost about $65 per day. They conveniently offer airport pickup and drop-off.

Grand Turk

Most tourists here rent golf carts since the island is only 7 miles from north to south and 2 miles wide. Roads are a little rougher here than on Provo, but are still navigable. Golf carts won’t protect against rain and I experienced some technical difficulties with mine (I was given a partial refund for the trouble). I booked through my Airbnb host and was told the standard rate on the island is about $80 per day.

South Caicos

The hotel where I stayed (East Bay Resort) offered complimentary bicycle rentals. Although South Caicos is fully accessible by bike, prepare to be exhausted by the end of the day! The bicycles weren’t in pristine condition and you may have to ride on a dirt road or two. Paved roads also have some potholes, so be careful.

Once you’ve booked all your vehicles, you’re ready to go exploring! My favorite spot was Sapodilla Hill on Provo. You’ll start at what appears to be a wooded hillside, but if you duck under branches and follow what looks like the remnants of a forgotten foot trail, you will find yourself on a very overgrown path. Keep working your way up the hill for 360-degree views of the surrounding Chalk Sound, Sapodilla Bay, and the open ocean to the south.

Two other cool areas were the northwestern peninsula on Grand Turk and the northern peninsula on South Caicos. Both areas were very relaxing and almost completely devoid of human activity. Blue Hills Road in Provo was also a scenic beachfront drive that had some interesting architecture. As long as you’re willing to venture away from the touristy spots, you shouldn’t have any trouble making your own discoveries!

2. Try conch in its many forms (and other delicious cuisine)

Conch is a true delicacy that you have to try during your trip! It can be found on menus in almost every restaurant and comes in many varieties: cracked conch, steamed conch, conch fritters, and conch salad. My favorite is cracked conch, which reminds me of calamari. A great place to go on Provo is da Conch Shack, which has a combo on their menu consisting of cracked conch, fritters, and a really good dipping sauce. As always, you can’t go wrong with a side of peas and rice!

The steamed conch I had at the Dolphin Grill in South Caicos was also a delicious and hearty meal. If you’re looking for something fresh and light, go with a conch salad, which is usually prepared with diced tomatoes, onions, and cucumber.

3. The scenery is amazing (especially from a plane window)

As I’m sure you can tell by now, there’s beautiful places to discover all over the islands. Turn a corner and you’re bound to stumble upon a beach that looks like it belongs in a travel magazine. But I think the most breathtaking views are actually seen from the air. If you take a domestic flight on InterCaribbean or Caicos Express, you will take a small propeller plane like this:

These planes fly at low elevations compared to commercial jetliners, so you’ll have some really incredible views of the geography of the islands as you fly over them.

Take a look at a map of the TCI, and you’ll see that when flying from Provo to any other island, you’ll want to sit in a window seat on the left side of the plane for the best views of the islands. When you fly back, sit on the right. Since InterCaribbean has open seating, you should be able to get your pick as long as you’re in the front of the line to board!

One of the most striking things I noticed was the stark contrast between the turquoise color of the shallow waters surrounding the islands and the rich, navy blue of the deeper open ocean. This is especially apparent if you fly to Grand Turk, but can be seen even if you fly within the Caicos Islands.

4. Wild animals abound on the more remote islands

If you’re an animal lover, this is a prime reason to check out an island other than Provo! While on Grand Turk and South Caicos, I saw wild donkeys, horses, cows, dogs, cats, lizards, fish, and tropical birds. Donkeys that roam the islands are a remnant of the bustling salt industry of centuries past. They are not afraid of humans or aggressive, although if you get too close to take a picture, they will trot away.

5. The sunsets are gorgeous!

This is pretty self-explanatory, but check when the sun sets and position yourself on a western-facing beach 10 or 15 minutes before that. Relax, take it all in, and cool down after a long day.

So there you have it! Hopefully I’ve enticed you to at least consider the Turks and Caicos Islands for your next getaway. If you’re looking for more information about each island, click one of the links below to learn more:

Additional Information

Here are a few other tidbits of knowledge that might make your trip smoother.

The currency of the Turks and Caicos Islands is the US dollar. Cash is good to have on hand especially if you want to check out some mom and pop shops, but resorts and touristy areas will accept credit cards.
I recommend withdrawing extra cash from an ATM on Providenciales before flying to smaller islands. Read more about ATMs here.
As a budget traveler, I have to warn you that traveling the islands is expensive. Rental vehicles are a must, and budget accommodation is hard to find. Expect to pay at least $60 a day for a vehicle, and at least $100 a night for lodging (even at Airbnbs). Overall, I think the total cost of my trip for 5 days was about $1800.
Residents of Caribbean countries tend to be devout, so most businesses will be closed on Sundays (some restaurants may open for lunch after church). Take care of shopping and errands on Saturday to avoid conflicts.

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This post was published on Mar 3, 2018

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post 5 Reasons To Go Island Hopping In The Turks And Caicos appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Turks and Caicos Archives - Caffeinated Excursions

Why I Had Mixed Feelings About South Caicos

What I Liked

What I Didn't Like

Suggestions for Visitors

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The 24-Hour Guide To Grand Turk

Things I Saw in 24 Hours

Beaches

Grand Turk's Northwestern Peninsula

Front Street

Restaurants

Salinas

Things I Missed

Turks and Caicos National Museum

Her Majesty's Prison Museum

Grand Turk Lighthouse

Grand Turk Cruise Center

Other Info

Airbnb

A Short yet Picturesque Flight

Getting Around by Golf Cart

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Providenciales: Your Home Base For Island Hopping

Touristy Stuff

The Road Less Traveled

Where to StaY

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5 Reasons To Go Island Hopping In The Turks And Caicos

1. It's easy to explore on your own terms (with a little preparation)

Provo

Grand Turk

South Caicos

2. Try conch in its many forms (and other delicious cuisine)

3. The scenery is amazing (especially from a plane window)

4. Wild animals abound on the more remote islands

5. The sunsets are gorgeous!

Additional Information

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

Recent Posts

Meet Your Caffeinated Blogger: Kevin!

Where I Am Now

Categories

Where I’ve Been

Upcoming Trips

Archives

Click To Follow!