Brazil Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/category/brazil/ Blog of a Traveling Coffee Addict Sat, 14 Mar 2026 04:57:56 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.3 https://i0.wp.com/caffeinatedexcursions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/wp-1555570621336.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Brazil Archives - Caffeinated Excursions https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/category/brazil/ 32 32 141833777 What It Was Like Returning To The US After Spending The Pandemic Abroad https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/what-it-was-like-returning-to-the-us-after-spending-the-pandemic-abroad/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/what-it-was-like-returning-to-the-us-after-spending-the-pandemic-abroad/#comments Sun, 25 Apr 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=16319 I lived in Brazil from January 2020 to April 2021, which meant I've spent the entire pandemic abroad until now. This post documents what it was like to return to the US (as an American citizen) during these unprecedent times, and it also includes a preview what you can expect for the blog moving forward!

The post What It Was Like Returning To The US After Spending The Pandemic Abroad appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

What It Was Like Returning To The US After Spending The Pandemic Abroad

Published April 25, 2021

It’s been a while since I’ve written a new blog post, and there’s a good reason for that: most of my energy lately has been focused on moving back to the US! After living for nearly a year and a half in Brazil, it was finally time to move back to my home country.

Me next to the Tom Jobim statue in Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, on my final day in Brazil

In this post, I’ll talk about my final month or so in Brazil. Then, I’ll include a section about what I had to do to fly back to the US under current restrictions. The last section will talk about what I’ve been up to since I arrived, and what you can expect for the blog moving forward!

My Final Month in Brazil (Mar-Apr 2021)

If you check back on my end of 2020 and sneak peek of 2021 blog post, you’ll see that my original plan was to travel along the Brazilian coast from Rio de Janeiro to as far north as Recife. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it so far, but I did get to see some cool cities and towns that weren’t on my original plan. Click or tap the links below to learn about some of them!

As most readers probably know, Brazil unfortunately experienced its worst wave to date in March 2021. My plans to travel along the coast were based on the assumption that cases in Brazil would continue to go down, and they did not. That’s why when I got to the Brazilian city of Salvador in March, I ended up doing a full month of lockdown along with the rest of the city.

I still went out for walks and got to see some of the city’s most famous attractions, including the Pelourinho (historic district), the Lacerda Elevator, and the Barra Lighthouse. However, Salvador is known for its festive atmosphere and hospitality, so seeing all of these attractions without any people was quite eerie.

Pelourinho, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil
Lacerda Elevator, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil
Barra Lighthouse, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil

Salvador is also known for its cuisine, but with so much of the city closed, I was limited to ordering takeout from a handful of restaurants near my rental apartment. What I was able to get was delicious, but I definitely didn’t get to try the full range of flavors and specialties that Salvador has to offer.

Returning to Rio & Departing Brazil

Because of the wave of cases in Brazil and the fact that the US was continuing to open vaccine availability, I decided to buy my ticket back to America in mid-April. After my month-long lease in Salvador was up, I took a 30-hour bus ride from Salvador back to Rio, where my international flight was departing from. Even with masks, the bus ride made me nervous as they didn’t require testing beforehand, and it was just so long.

A rest stop dining area where we stopped for lunch

I had just a few days scheduled in Rio, and really enjoyed walking along Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches one final time. During this time, I also took my very first COVID-19 test, which was required to board the flight to the US.

Getting a test in Rio as an American was easy. Most pharmacy chains appear to offer exams, and I scheduled mine at this branch of Droga Raia after inquiring at a different store and being directed here. The exam cost 120 BRL and results were ready within minutes. The pharmacist then signed and officiated a document for me to give to the airline at check-in.

My "rapid" COVID-19 test, which presented results within minutes.

Finally, I was ready to depart Brazil! After 462 days, it was time to say goodbye. I was honestly pretty nervous that somewhere along the process, an issue would come up. Obviously the biggest challenge would’ve been a positive COVID test, which would’ve prevented me from boarding the plane. I would imagine that if that had happened, I would’ve needed to contact United and move my flight back a couple of weeks. I’m not sure what kind of extra fees would’ve been associated.

A very empty international terminal at Rio's Galeão International Airport

Arriving in Chicago

Part of the reason this process was such an ordeal is that since the Biden administration took office, guidelines for Americans reentering the US have been a bit more strict than they were under the Trump administration. While these requirements are documented on the State Department website, specifics are not so clear.

For example, the CDC recommends quarantine, but as far as I can tell, this is not being enforced by US Customs and Border Protection or any other agency. Nonetheless, I was intent on not giving anyone a possibly virulent variant, which is why I booked a studio apartment for two weeks to quarantine in.

For a week, I did as strict a quarantine as possible. After that, I got another rapid test which came back negative. A few hours later, I got my first dose of one of the two-dose vaccines. At this point, I am still social distancing, but have loosened my regimen of restrictions just a bit. For example, I’ve gone to a few local restaurants and ordered food to go.

What About Seattle?

Another divergence between my original 2021 plan and what ended up happening is where I’m currently based in the US! I was originally planning on moving back to my home city of Seattle, but for a number of reasons that I won’t bore you with right here, I ended up in Chicago instead.

Chicago skyline

This is where I’ll be for the near future, and I’m so excited to start blogging about this city as it reopens for summer with vaccination rates on the rise. I’m especially excited to explore the very international food scene and to find delicacies from all corners of Asia, Latin America, and beyond!

What's Next

My next trip actually starts as soon as I finish up my two weeks of quarantine and social distancing. I’ll be headed to Arizona to see family who’ve all been fully vaccinated. It’s been over a year since seeing them, so I can’t wait for this reunion!

Since that’ll be a family trip, I can’t promise enough content to write an entire post about it, but will nonetheless be trying my best. I’ve never been to Arizona before, so a “first impressions” post might be the way to go.

After that, I don’t have too much set in stone for summer! I have to find a job in Chicago and am really interested in tutoring since that’s what I’ve been doing (remotely) while in Brazil, but will have to see. I’d love to use the summer to explore the metro area as much as possible and then branch out a little bit in fall, assuming that the pandemic situation continues to improve in the US.

Closing Remarks

If I’m being honest, Brazil was probably not the best country to be stuck in for the pandemic. It was tough knowing that case numbers were never low there, even between peaks. However, I’m still so grateful that I got to experience both the joys and challenges of Brazil, even in these unprecedented, crazy times. I absolutely intend to go back someday, because even though I got to know São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Espírito Santo, and Bahia, I only scratched the surface of this massive, super-diverse country.

If you’ve got any questions or suggestions for this next chapter in my travel blogging journey centered around Chicago, feel free to leave a comment! I’m really looking forward to finding my niche in this city and blogging about things that haven’t crossed other bloggers’ radars!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Apr 25, 2021

The post What It Was Like Returning To The US After Spending The Pandemic Abroad appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/what-it-was-like-returning-to-the-us-after-spending-the-pandemic-abroad/feed/ 6 16319
Where To Stay In Porto Seguro, Bahia, Brazil https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/where-to-stay-in-porto-seguro-bahia-brazil/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/where-to-stay-in-porto-seguro-bahia-brazil/#comments Thu, 18 Mar 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=15544 Porto Seguro is an absolutely stunning region on the Atlantic coast of Bahia, Brazil. If you’re wondering whether you should visit Porto Seguro on your next trip to Brazil, the short answer is yes. However, choosing a place to stay can be tricky! That’s because there are about half a dozen small towns spread out along the coast...

The post Where To Stay In Porto Seguro, Bahia, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

Where To Stay In Porto Seguro, Bahia, Brazil

Where To Stay In Porto Seguro, Bahia,
Brazil

Published March 18, 2021

Porto Seguro is an absolutely stunning region on the Atlantic coast of Bahia, Brazil. If you’re wondering whether you should visit Porto Seguro on your next trip to Brazil, the short answer is yes. However, choosing a place to stay can be tricky! That’s because there are about half a dozen small towns spread out along the coast, and it’s not easy to tell which villages have the best beaches using only a map.

This post won’t be a review of individual hotels or guesthouses, but it will discuss which area is best for your individual needs as a traveler.

I personally spent two weeks in the town center of Porto Seguro, then spent two more weeks in another town called Arraial d’Ajuda to the south. I’ll provide as much information as I can about some of the other tourist areas I spent time in. If you’d like to learn more an individual area, click or tap the link below to skip down to that section!

Should You Stay in Porto Seguro?

You might be thinking, “Wouldn’t it make sense to stay in the city center of Porto Seguro? Surely it’s easy to get around from there, right?” Well, not exactly. Directly to the south of Porto Seguro is the Buranhém River, which you have to cross to get to all the best beaches. You can use the public ferry, but this easily adds half an hour of travel time each way if you’re headed south for the day.

Staying in Porto Seguro is a good idea if you need quick, easy access to the airport or bus station. Other than that, I honestly don’t recommend staying here. That’s because the town isn’t so quaint, and in fact there are no beaches anywhere near the touristy boardwalk.

Should You Stay in Arraial d’Ajuda?

Arraial d’Ajuda is the largest village south of the Buranhém River. It’s got a great vibe, and there are lots of dining options to choose from. Arraial also has some stunning beaches within walking distance (unlike Porto Seguro) which you can read more about in my Porto Seguro beach guide [coming soon]!

As mentioned above, I spent two weeks in Arraial d’Ajuda, and I recommend you stay here too. Accommodation prices are generally reasonable, there are lots of restaurant choices, and it’s easy to find transportation and day tours heading to the beaches further south. I stayed in an absolutely beautiful loft that was a short walk to both the beach and the Arraial d’Ajuda town square.

The only problem with staying in Arraial is that you have to take the ferry across the river if you’re coming from the airport or the bus station. If you’ve got a lot of luggage, this can be a bit of an inconvenience. In addition, if you’re interested in checking out the beaches to the north, you’ll have to take the ferry back, then a bus or taxi.

Delicious shrimp with black pasta served at one of the many good restaurants in the Arraial d'Ajuda town center

Should You Stay in Trancoso?

Located about an hour’s drive from Arraial d’Ajuda, Trancoso is the next town south. It’s got wide open beaches that make this another good place to stay. Shuttle vans run regularly between Arraial and Trancoso, but they might not allow you on if you’ve got a ton of luggage. Alternatively, you might have to pay for the seats that your bags take up since the vans don’t have trunk space. It might be easier but more expensive to hire a taxi to get back and forth.

There’s also a famous “quadrado” (public square) here that’s worth checking out. Even if you don’t spend the night here, be sure to organize a day trip to Trancoso to explore the impressive Coqueiros Beach (Praia dos Coqueiros), pictured above.

Igreja do Quadrado (Church of the Public Square) in Trancoso

It’s worth noting that Trancoso is a bit more remote than Arraial d’Ajuda. Another downside is that everything is more expensive. There are fewer lodging options, so prices are higher on average. The same seemed to be true of restaurants. Arraial has dining options for all budgets, but food prices in Trancoso seem inflated.

Should You Stay in Curuípe?

This tiny town is further south of Trancoso. Unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be a regular van service between the Arraial d’Ajuda ferry terminal and Curuípe. If you choose to stay here, you’d almost certainly have to hire a private taxi. It’s also small enough that you probably wouldn’t have most of the amenities that you’d get in Porto Seguro, Arraial d’Ajuda, or Trancoso.

Why consider staying in Curuípe, then? Well, this area is home to Praia do Espelho, which is considered by many to be the best beach in the region and one of the top contenders nationally. It is easy to book a day trip from Porto Seguro or Arraial, but people who want to spend a few days or longer here should expect an all-inclusive resort experience.

Curuípe is great if you want to relax on a truly stunning beach. It’s probably not an ideal place to stay for travelers who want to explore up and down the coast though. I would also guess that this is one of the most expensive areas mentioned on this list for lodging and food, since options are very limited.

Should You Stay in Caraíva?

Caraíva is the little township furthest south that is still considered part of the Porto Seguro region. However, it can take up to two hours to reach by car or van from the Arraial d’Ajuda ferry terminal. Only a few passenger vans run between the two each day, so getting down there and back is not extremely convenient. Day trips are doable but you have to depart from Arraial d’Ajuda very early in the morning.

Once you make it to Caraíva, the town center is actually located across a small river that you have to board a small motorized water taxi to cross. This is pretty straightforward, but could be a hassle with a lot of luggage.

I’m not an advocate of staying this far south for a number of reasons. For one, all of the “roads” in Caraíva are made of sand, and the town has no cars. There were golf carts acting as taxis, but the lack of paved roads is a lot more inconvenient than you might think as a pedestrian, especially since the sand is scorching hot during the day. Hotels here do have WiFi, but cell service in Caraíva is really spotty.

Finally, the beach in Caraíva is nice, but not jaw-dropping. I found Praia do Espelho in Curuípe and Praia da Pitinga in Arraial d’Ajuda to be much more beautiful.

Should You Stay in Coroa Vermelha?

Unlike all the towns mentioned above, Coroa Vermelha is actually north of Porto Seguro. It’s a short Uber ride from the center of Porto Seguro, making it relatively convenient. However, the beach here was pretty unremarkable in my opinion. This area also felt the most like a tourist trap of all the towns mentioned on this post. After spending an hour or two walking around Coroa Vermelha, I was ready to move on.

Should You Stay in Santa Cruz Cabrália?

This small village even further north of Coroa Vermelha can also be reached by Uber, although rideshare availability can be unreliable up here. You might have to hire an old-fashioned taxi to get back to Porto Seguro. Santa Cruz has an interesting vibe and seems to be the least touristy of all the towns on this list. It honestly felt a little too quiet for my taste. However, if you’re looking to get off the beaten path, I would bet that there are some better lodging deals here than in Caraíva.

Tips & Closing Remarks

If this is a lot to process and you’d rather figure things out after you get settled, book a hotel or guesthouse room in Arraial d’Ajuda. From there, it’s easy to arrange day trips to most other beaches in the region. Unless you’re departing by bus or plane at a very early or late hour, it’s also easy to get to the airport or bus station. Just give yourself enough time for the ferry ride!

Although my accommodation in Porto Seguro was pretty nondescript, the loft I booked in Arraial d’Ajuda was such a unique place to stay! It was only a short walk from the town center, but it felt like staying in a jungle resort! I loved the interior design and the breeze of fresh air that flowed through the open windows.

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Mar 18, 2021

The post Where To Stay In Porto Seguro, Bahia, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/where-to-stay-in-porto-seguro-bahia-brazil/feed/ 14 15544
The Top 4 Things To Do In Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, Brazil https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-top-4-things-to-do-in-vila-velha-espirito-santo-brazil/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-top-4-things-to-do-in-vila-velha-espirito-santo-brazil/#comments Fri, 19 Feb 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=14642 If you’re thinking about visiting the Greater Vitória metro region in Espírito Santo, I have one piece of advice: go! There are two main cities on the central coast of ES: the state capital of Vitória, and the large suburb of Vila Velha to the south. Check out this post to learn about the four things you won't want to miss in Vila Velha!

The post The Top 4 Things To Do In Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

The Top 4 Things To Do In Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, Brazil

The Top 4 Things To Do In Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, Brazil

Published June 19, 2020

If you’re thinking about visiting the Greater Vitória metro region in Espírito Santo, I have one piece of advice: go! Although the city of Vitória is smaller than São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, there are a lot of unique attractions in the area. Plus, it’s not an international tourist hotspot, so I would argue that it’s the perfect place to see a side of Brazil that most tourists don’t!

A quick look at a map of the area reveals that there are two main cities on the central coast of Espírito Santo: the state capital of Vitória, and Vila Velha to the south of the Santa Maria da Vitória River. Although the two are connected by a couple bridges, the one you’re likely to cross is Terceira Ponte (which literally means “The Third Bridge”).

Terceira Ponte as seen from the northern (Vitória) side looking towards Vila Velha

Luckily, the four most popular attractions in Vila Velha are all near Terceira Ponte in the northeast corner of the city. You can technically see all four items on the list in one day, but I recommend scheduling two per day for a more leisurely pace. To skip down to any of the four attractions, click or tap on the corresponding link below!

  1. Convento da Penha (Penha Convent)
  2. Farol de Santa Luzia (Santa Luzia Lighthouse)
  3. Praia da Costa (Costa Beach)
  4. Morro do Moreno (Moreno Hill)

1. Convento da Penha

This convent on top of a hill is probably the most iconic symbol of Vila Velha. You can see it from various parts of Vitória towering above the skyline, so it’s really impossible to miss.

The entrance is located here, and the easiest way to get there is to take an Uber (unless you happen to be staying within walking distance). After arriving, you can either hike up for free or pay a small fee for a van ride. The hike is short: only about fifteen or twenty minutes, so I did that.

The entrance to Convento da Penha

Once you get to the top, you’ll be able to check out the church building as well as the amazing panoramic views. From one side, you can look north to see Vitória across the river. From the other, you’ll be treated to a view of Vila Velha and the Atlantic Ocean.

View of Vitória and Terceira Ponte from Convento da Penha
The Vila Velha skyline

A number of locals recommended doing this short hike in the morning. In fact, due to COVID-19, the trail closed (in January 2021) at 4:00 p.m., a couple of hours earlier than it normally would.

2. Farol de Santa Luzia

The second attraction I recommend is a lighthouse. Like the convent, it’s also free to visit and is pretty self-explanatory. You can call an Uber to go directly to the front entrance, which doesn’t require a walk or hike.

A visit to Farol de Santa Luzia only takes about half an hour. As far as I could tell, visitors are not permitted to go up to the top. I would guess this is because the lighthouse is active and not just a historical relic.

3. Praia da Costa

If you’re going to visit Farol de Santa Luzia, it’s a short walk and an even shorter Uber ride to Praia da Costa, the main beach in Vila Velha. Technically, there’s a little portion on the northern end called Praia Curva da Sereia, but Praia da Costa extends for miles and miles southward. It actually curves around, which is why it’s such a beautiful beach.

Praia Curva da Sereia

You definitely don’t need to walk its entire length, and there are plenty of amazing views in the beach’s northernmost section. While you’re there, be sure to check out Pedra da Sereia, a massive rock formation in the water that you can walk out to via a sandbar during low tide.

Pedra da Sereia

4. Morro do Moreno

The last thing you should do in Vila Velha is another hike. It’s a bit longer and steeper than the walk up to the convent, but the views are worth it! Just make sure you wear sneakers.

There seem to be a couple different pathways up this hill, but the entrance to the main one is located here. From the top, you’ll be able to see Vitória again. The only difference is that Morro do Moreno is to the east of Terceira Ponte, while Convento da Penha is to the west.

Look in the other direction (to the southeast) to see a panoramic view of Praia Curva da Sereia as well as the peninsula where Farol de Santa Luzia is located. This is also an amazing spot for pictures!

There is a small snack and beverage stand at the top, which is a good place to stock up on water. In terms of safety, people from Vitória mentioned that Morro do Moreno is a great place to watch the sunset, but that hiking back down after dark isn’t the best idea. I went on a weekend afternoon to ensure that the path wasn’t devoid of people, which I’d recommend for those who can.

Check out these related blog posts!

If Vila Velha looks interesting to you, be sure to check out my other two blog posts about Vitória! The two cities are a fifteen or twenty-minute drive apart from one another, so you should absolutely explore both if you’re headed this way.

What do you think of Vila Velha?

A trip to the Greater Vitória metro area simply isn’t complete without a day or two in Vila Velha. The views of the bay, the mountains, the city skyline, and the open ocean just can’t be beat. Have you been to Vila Velha before? Would you consider it for your next trip to Brazil? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for checking out Caffeinated Excursions!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on June 19, 2020

The post The Top 4 Things To Do In Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-top-4-things-to-do-in-vila-velha-espirito-santo-brazil/feed/ 13 14642
The Best Restaurants, Bars, & Cafes in Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-restaurants-bars-cafes-in-vitoria-espirito-santo-brazil/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-restaurants-bars-cafes-in-vitoria-espirito-santo-brazil/#comments Thu, 18 Feb 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=14633 Vitória is a relatively quiet, medium-sized city situated on the Atlantic coast of Brazil between Rio de Janeiro and Salvador. As the capital of the state of Espírito Santo, Vitória has a lot to offer, but the number one reason all travelers should check it out is its amazing food scene...

The post The Best Restaurants, Bars, & Cafes in Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

The Best Restaurants, Bars, &
Cafes In Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil

The Best Restaurants, Bars, & Cafes In Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil

Published February 18, 2021

Vitória is a relatively quiet, medium-sized city situated on the Atlantic coast of Brazil between Rio de Janeiro and Salvador. As the capital of the state of Espírito Santo, Vitória has a lot to offer, but the number one reason all travelers should check it out is its amazing food scene!

There are so many unique dining options in Vitória, and trying each one was so much fun! Most places listed here are located in the Praia do Canto neighborhood, but a few are a short drive north or south of there. Without further ado, here’s the list!

  1. Restaurants
  2. Cafes
  3. Bakeries
  4. A Cool Brewery

1. Restaurants

Alas Restaurante

Address: R. da Grécia, 228 – Santa Luíza, Vitória – ES, 29045-225
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/alasrestaurante/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alasrestaurante/

First on the list is an excellent Greek Restaurant that has an on-point dining space to match its delicious food. With a very large outdoor patio overlooking the Santa Maria da Vitória River, Alas feels like dining in Greece from the moment you’re seated.

In fact, this restaurant was so good that I had to go back a second time. They have a large menu of classic Greek dishes and wine. I recommend either the saganaki (fried cheese) appetizer or the feta platter, which comes with tomatoes, olives, and capers.

For the main course, I loved their medusa negra pasta with prawns. For a slightly more budget-friendly choice, go with the souvlaki kebabs, served with fries and pita.

Aleixo Restaurante

Address: R. Aleixo Netto, 1204 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-260
Website: https://www.dguests.com/aleixo
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/AleixoRestaurante/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/aleixorestaurante/

Located on one of the main streets in Praia do Canto, Aleixo feels like the perfect balance of fine dining and a relatively good price. In addition to serving lunch and dinner, they also operate a small cafe next door to the restaurant.

Aleixo Restaurante offers an interesting lunch combo (almoço executivo) for about 70 BRL that includes a starter, main, and dessert. The carne seca rice bowl they served with veggies and farofa was an interesting and memorable dish, and the bruschetta and salad appetizer was both delicious and beautifully plated.

Pier Aleixo Restaurante

Address: R. Aleixo Netto, 1702 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-260
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/restaurante.pieraleixo/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/pieraleixo/

This restaurant is only a few blocks away from the one mentioned above. They both have similar names, but it’s unclear to me if they’re owned by the same person or not. Regardless, I would still recommend trying both because they have different vibes and different menus. Pier Aleixo Restaurante is located on the northern end of Praia do Canto. If there’s a table open, you can sit right next to the Santa Maria da Vitória River under a covered outdoor dining area.

I decided to be fancy here and ordered their lobster with spaghetti which was really good. I haven’t had lobster since coming to Brazil, so it was definitely a treat.

Los Chicos

Address: Av. Des. Dermeval Lyrio, 56 – Mata da Praia, Vitória – ES, 29065-430
Website: https://www.flipsnack.com/cardapioloschicos/card-pio-los-chicos-2019.html
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LosChicosES/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loschicoses/

All fans of Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine should be sure to visit Los Chicos! It was better than any of the Mexican restaurants I’ve tried in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, which is saying something! In general, good Mexican food is hard to come by in Brazil, so it’s always amazing to find a place like Los Chicos that does a top-notch job.

Like Alas Restaurante, Los Chicos was too good to only go once. Everything I tried was spot on, from their creative cocktails to their nacho appetizers. If you’re having trouble deciding what to order, I really liked their soft shell tacos especiales, which you can get with carne asada, fish, or “messy pigs” (smoked pork).

Restaurante Papaguth

Address: Praça do Papa – Av. Nossa Sra. dos Navegantes, 700 – Enseada do Suá, Vitória – ES, 29052-150
Website: http://www.papaguth.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Papaguth/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/papaguth/

If you’re interested in trying local dishes, head over to Papaguth! It’s a little out of the way, but well worth the short Uber ride to get to. The restaurant itself is very modern with a large, open-air patio.

As you might expect, food from Espírito Santo (comida capixaba) is heavily seafood based. The most iconic specialty is moqueca, a fish stew that is popular throughout Brazil but has regional varieties. If you’re going to try it here, which you should, be sure to come hungry! It’s served with rice and pirão, a special type of gravy. In other words, moqueca is never going to be a light meal!

Ubud Cafe

Address: R. Joaquim Lírio, 189 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-460
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ubudcafe.vix
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ubud_cafe/

This is one of my favorite finds in Vitória because this boutique-style cafe is bursting with character, and they serve coffee, cocktails, and full meals! Just check out how beautifully both the inside and outside of Ubud Cafe are decorated!

In addition, you’ll notice that everything on the menu at Ubud is creative. No matter what you order, it’ll surely be a new and exciting culinary experience!

Lastly, this cafe is owned by women who’ve traveled extensively, and that influence can be felt throughout. Everything from the cafe’s name to the decor to the items on the menu will delight travel enthusiasts. I enjoyed trying their rice dumpling appetizer; Southeast Asian food is really hard to find even in Brazil’s biggest cities! The staff are friendly too and will make you feel welcome as a visitor to the city.

Balthazar

Address: Shopping Day by Day – R. Elesbão Linhares, 15 – loja 18 e 19 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-340
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/balthazarvix/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/balthazarvix/

If you’re looking to splurge a bit, Balthazar is definitely one place to do that. It’s probably the fanciest place on this list, but it should be noted that most of the places on this list are more expensive than your typical local restaurant in Brazil. (In general, an appetizer, main dish, dessert, and drink from any restaurant on this list will cost between 100 and 150 BRL).

With that said, Balthazar had some unique offerings, including a custard dessert called Montanhas de Minas Gerais, pictured below. They also serve a burrata with actual truffles (not just truffle flakes or truffle oil), which was my first time trying this famous delicacy.

To be completely honest, the main course I got (lingua no sous vide) was good but not nearly as interesting as the appetizers, drinks, and dessert. So if you’d like to try this restaurant without spending as much, you could perhaps plan more of a happy hour and then get a cheaper, small dinner afterwards.

Casa Graviola

Address: R. Elesbão Linhares, 41 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-340
Website: http://www.casagraviola.com.br
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/casagraviola
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/casagraviola/

I was honestly surprised to learn that this restaurant is a chain with locations in multiple Brazilian states because it felt so on-brand with the food scene in Vitória. With that said, it’s still on my list because the food and drinks here were pretty delicious, and everything seemed healthy and fresh. I especially enjoyed trying their vegan pad thai, which had noodles made out of veggies (i.e., those noodles aren’t noodles at all; they’re actually long strands of squash, zucchini, carrot, etc).

Be sure to save room for dessert at Casa Graviola! They have great brownies and fruit crumbles served with ice cream.

Don Camaleone

Address: R. Des. Sampaio, 263 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-250
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DonCamaleone/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/doncamaleone/

There are a lot of good pizza options in Praia do Canto that offer both American- and Brazilian-style pizza with a thicker crust as well as a more Italian-style with thinner crust. While the pizza at Don Camaleone wasn’t exactly what you’d find in Italy, this was probably my favorite that I had in Vitória. I saw burrata cheese on the menu here too, and couldn’t pass that up either!

2. Cafes

Urban Coffee Gourmet

Address: R. Neves Armond – Praia do Suá, Vitória – ES, 29052-280
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/urbancoffeegourmet/

This cozy little cafe in the Praia do Suá neighborhood is worth a visit if you’re passing through. They have great cappuccinos and cakes, and the owner, Erlan, is very friendly! This cafe is within walking distance of Restaurante Papaguth (mentioned above) and D’Belem – Doçaria Portugesa (mentioned below).

Café Teugrano

Address: R. Joaquim Lírio, 455 – Loja 1 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-460
Website: https://cafeteugrano.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafeteugrano
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafeteugrano/

This was my favorite cafe in Praia do Canto. They open early(-ish) and are conveniently located. They also have a large, semi-outdoor seating area at the entrance to a small shopping center.

The Teugrano menu is pretty standard, but one interesting thing you can try is their “orange coffee,” which is orange juice and coffee served together! I’ve seen this one other place here in Brazil but this is definitely a niche beverage. I actually do like it and find that the sweetness and bitterness sort of balance each other out! Would you be willing to try it?

Café Bamboo

Address: R. Afonso Cláudio, 254 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-570
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafebamboo
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafebamboo

The artsy vibe of this cafe reminded me a bit of some of the local coffee shops in my home city of Seattle, which is one of the reasons I liked it! I stopped in one rainy morning for a Nutella latte, which was the perfect way to start the day. It’s only a block or two away from Teugrano, so be sure to check it out!

Odara Pão e Café

Address: R. Aleixo Netto, 834 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-260
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odarapaoecafe

My Airbnb host recommended that I try Odara, and I’m glad she did because it was very good! I’m sure you could stop in for a quick coffee, but they also do a nice little brunch combo with eggs benedict, coffee, orange juice, and a tart for dessert.

3. Bakeries

D'Belem - Doçaria Portugesa

Address: R. Ferreira Coelho, 113 – Praia do Suá, Vitória – ES, 29052-210
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/docesalgadovitoriaes
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/docaria_portuguesa

This is one of the places on the list that’s a little out of the way, but you should absolutely take an Uber over to the Praia do Suá part of town to visit this Portuguese bakery. Whenever I see pastel de nata (egg tarts) here in Brazil, I make sure to get my fill as they’re not super common here. What’s more, the owners of this small bakery are actually from Portugal, so it’s the real deal!

Empório Joaquim

Address: Rua Elesbão Linhares, 15, Shopping Day By Day, Lojas 01 e 02 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-340
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/emporiojoaquim/

Empório Joaquim is an interesting place because it’s both a small restaurant and a deli where you can buy wine, meat, cheese, and other items to go. I stopped here for a quick coffee and a salmon on brioche sandwich on my last morning in Vitória.

4. A Cool Brewery

Vikings Cervejaria

Address: R. João da Cruz, 322 – Praia do Canto, Vitória – ES, 29055-250
Website: https://www.goomer.app/vikings-beer-and-burger-vv/menu
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/VikingCervejaria
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vikingscervejaria

Last but not least on my list is a brewery! I don’t know about you guys, but due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I feel like my alcohol consumption has been a lot lower than in years prior. Furthermore, proper breweries don’t seem to be so common in Brazil, which is why I had to check this one out when I walked by it.

In addition to having good beer, one interesting thing about Vikings is that they have self-serve taps. You load credit onto a card, then swipe the card on whichever brew you want and pay per milliliter. It was an interesting experience for sure!

The only caveat with this is that you basically have to know how much you want to drink beforehand. I suspect that they wouldn’t issue a refund if you had a couple reais left on the card. I’m also not sure if you could hold onto the card and use it some days or weeks later, but hopefully it doesn’t expire overnight.

Curious about Vitória? Check out these other posts!

If you’re planning to visit Vitória, congratulations: you’re in for a real treat! To see some other recommendations besides food and drink, check out one of the blog posts below!

Have you tried any of the restaurants listed here? Do you have any questions? Leave a comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading, and bom apetite!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Feb 18, 2021

The post The Best Restaurants, Bars, & Cafes in Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-restaurants-bars-cafes-in-vitoria-espirito-santo-brazil/feed/ 11 14633
Should You Visit Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil? Yes, And Here’s Why. https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/should-you-visit-vitoria-espirito-santo-brazil-yes-and-heres-why/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/should-you-visit-vitoria-espirito-santo-brazil-yes-and-heres-why/#comments Wed, 17 Feb 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=14578 Have you ever heard of the Brazilian state of Espírito Santo? If you haven’t, that’s okay; I didn’t know about it before coming to Brazil either, but I’m so glad I decided to check it out! The state’s capital, Vitória, should be on the bucket list of serious travelers who want to get to know Brazil beyond its tourist hotspots...

The post Should You Visit Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil? Yes, And Here’s Why. appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

Should You Visit Vitória,
Espírito Santo, Brazil?
Yes, And Here’s Why.

Should You Visit Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil? Yes, And Here’s Why.

Published February 17, 2021

Have you ever heard of the Brazilian state of Espírito Santo? If you haven’t, that’s okay; I didn’t know about it before coming to Brazil, either! I also didn’t know I’d be visiting until about a month ago, but I’m so glad I decided to check it out!

Espírito Santo is surrounded by two massive states (Minas Gerais to the west and Bahia to the north), the Atlantic Ocean to the East, and Rio de Janeiro to the south. It’s no wonder that many travelers overlook ES since all three states mentioned are popular tourist destinations. However, the state’s capital, Vitória, should be on the bucket list of serious travelers who want to get to know Brazil beyond its tourist hotspots.

There are a surprising number of unique attractions in Vitória, a medium-sized metropolis that might seem nondescript before you start exploring. Keep reading to see what you shouldn’t miss on your visit to this mellow seaside city!

An Amazing Culinary Scene

This might come as a surprise, but the number one reason I recommend visiting Vitória is its impressive collection of restaurants and cafes. Small and medium-sized cities in Brazil tend to have good food but not a lot of variety. Luckily, Vitória has both! Most of the boutique eateries I recommend are in the Praia do Canto neighborhood. In fact, the food scene here was so good that I wrote a separate blog post specifically about that! Be sure to check it out by using the image link below!

Neighborhoods

Below are some brief introductions to four parts of the city that you might spend time in as a visitor.

Praia do Canto

My first impression of this upscale residential area was that it was very quiet without anything to do. It is indeed calm, but it’s also home to many of the city’s best restaurants and is about as centrally located as you can get. Foodies will want to explore each and every street with eyes peeled for dining establishments that look interesting.

Given that “praia” means beach, it shouldn’t be surprising that this neighborhood’s eastern edge is a small beach with a palm-lined promenade. To learn more about Vitória’s beaches, check out the section about them below.

Ilha do Frade

This small island is connected to the mainland by a short bridge. It’s one of the most unusual parts of the city because it’s probably the wealthiest neighborhood I’ve seen in Brazil so far. Some of the houses here are really over the top, with massive walls and security guard booths in front. It’s honestly surprising that this isn’t a gated community, but visitors are free to enter. It’s hard to feel welcome though due to dozens if not hundreds of massive signs everywhere reminding you that you’re being filmed for security reasons.

If you’re willing to walk to the far end of the island, you can check out Prainha do Meio (the only easily accessible beach here) as well as the small park in the middle of the island. Even if technically the other small beaches on Ilha do Frade are public, they really don’t feel like it. I wasn’t interested in being accused of trespassing onto private property, so I stuck to walking on the main roads.

Prainha do Meio

Unless you’re really curious about exploring the entire island, I would recommend crossing the Av. Des. Alfredo Cabral bridge (which offers great skyline views of the city) and visiting the first two beaches you encounter, Praia da Ilha do Frade and Praia dos Barcos. These are very clearly public beaches where you’ll almost certainly see other people relaxing.

View of Vitória from the Avenida Desembargador Alfredo Cabral bridge (looking south)
Praia da Ilha do Frade
Praia dos Barcos

Ilha do Boi

Despite its name, this area is actually not an island but a peninsula directly south of Ilha do Frade. It seems pretty residential and has a couple of small beaches, but there’s really not a lot to do here other than walk. The main beach here is Praia Grande on the peninsula’s northern side.

Enseada do Suá (Praça do Papa)

In this area, you can find a waterfront park called Praça do Papa (Pope’s Square) which is a large open plaza with views of the city of Vila Velha to the south across the Santa Maria da Vitória River.

Praça do Papa

Centro

Normally “Centro” in Portuguese refers to a town or city’s downtown, but in Vitória, Centro is actually not centrally located at all. It should probably be thought of more as a historic and government center than the business or commercial center, which is arguably in Praia do Canto. In any case, Centro is worth a visit if you have the time but not an absolute must-visit.

The most notable attraction here is the Palácio Anchieta, a fancy government building with a history going back to the 1500s. They actually offer tours to visitors, which is a good way to learn a little bit about the building as well as the city’s history.

Another thing to check out here is the Catedral Metropolitana de Vitória, a grand church with gothic spires.

Centro is home to a lot of other interesting architecture as well as Parque Moscoco and the Espírito Santo Museum of Art. However, in all honesty, the area feels a bit run-down. Centro also really clears out in the late afternoon. If you’re going to check it out, aim to visit in the morning or during lunch hour and keep a close eye on your personal belongings.

Parque Moscoco

Vila Velha

If you’re running short on time and have to choose between Centro and Vila Velha, go with the latter! Vila Velha is actually a different city that’s separated from Vitória by the Santa Maria da Vitória River. It’s a sprawling suburb, so I’ve put together a separate blog post about the four things you should do there, which is linked below! Plan to spend between one and two days in “VV” depending on how tight your schedule is.

This is perhaps the most iconic attraction in Vila Velha. Check out that post to learn what it is!

Beaches

Vitória has three main beaches that are near each other. It’s easy to walk along the coastline for an hour or two to see all three of them.

Praia do Canto

This beach is located in the neighborhood that shares the same name. It’s bounded on the north by a few small boat docks and on the south by the Av. Des. Alfredo Cabral bridge. It’s a pretty calm shoreline that only takes a few minutes to walk the length of.

Curva da Jurema

Locals seemed to prefer this beach over Praia do Canto, located a short distance south of the bridge to Ilha do Frade. It does seem like a slightly better place to relax or swim, and there are a cluster of kiosks selling snacks, drinks, and fast food.

Praia de Camburi

Camburi Beach is a long, yellow-sand beach with bluer waters than the two mentioned above. It runs along the eastern side of the Jardim da Penha and Mata da Praia neighborhoods in the north of the city. It’s nice to go for a walk along this beach, but there are fewer restaurants and businesses in this area.

A Final Note on Beaches

In all honesty, the beaches in Vitória are nice but not spectacular. In fact, I think the main beach in Vila Velha is a lot nicer than these three.

Praia Curva da Sereia in Vila Velha

Another famous beach destination in Espírito Santo is Guarapari, a smaller town about 60 kilometers south of the capital. I would’ve loved to check it out, but I didn’t have time. If you’ve been to Guarapari, leave a comment below and let me know how it was!

Tips

How long should you stay?

I spent two weeks in Vitória but was working remotely some mornings and evenings, and I got rained in for about three or four days of the trip. In other words, you definitely don’t need that long to see everything. If you’re going at a leisurely pace, five days would probably be good. If you’re really efficient, you could probably see most of what’s mentioned here in three days.

Where should you stay?

The city itself is not massive, so everything I recommend in this post is a short (twenty minute or less) Uber drive away from everything else. With that said, I really recommend finding accommodation in Praia do Canto. It’s the perfect area: close to the beach, safe, upscale, home to most of the city’s best restaurants, and centrally located.

Vitória may not look like the most exciting destination at first glance, but I suspect that it will grow in popularity this decade and beyond. That’s because it’s ideal for remote workers, digital nomads, and long-term travelers. I expect all of these trends to take off post-pandemic, and I think international travelers will come to love quieter, more local cities around the world just like this!

What do you think? Would you spend a week or so in Vitória? Have you been here before? Leave a comment and let me know! Thanks so much for reading, and see you next time!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Feb 17, 2021

The post Should You Visit Vitória, Espírito Santo, Brazil? Yes, And Here’s Why. appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/should-you-visit-vitoria-espirito-santo-brazil-yes-and-heres-why/feed/ 10 14578
Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/lagoa-rodrigo-de-freitas-an-upscale-lakefront-district-in-rio-de-janeiro/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/lagoa-rodrigo-de-freitas-an-upscale-lakefront-district-in-rio-de-janeiro/#comments Wed, 03 Feb 2021 06:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=14049 Do you enjoy exploring cities beyond their tourist hotspots? If you do and you’re headed to Rio de Janeiro, you’ll want to make sure you spend some time on the shores of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas! This saltwater lagoon directly north of Ipanema is a safe, upscale part of the city that has lots to offer...

The post Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro

Published February 3, 2021

Do you enjoy exploring cities beyond their tourist hotspots? If you do and you’re headed to Rio de Janeiro, you’ll want to make sure you spend some time on the shores of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas! This saltwater lagoon directly north of Ipanema is a safe, upscale part of the city that has lots to offer.

Panoramic view of Lagoa in the foreground as seen from Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) on Corcovado Mountain. The strip of land behind Lagoa is Ipanema, and behind that is the Atlantic Ocean.

This post will feature the pedestrian path that goes all the way around Lagoa, a massive botanical garden on its northwest side, another nearby park that’s great for pictures, and some additional attractions (including restaurants). Let’s dive right in!

Walk Around the Lake

The easiest way to get a sense of Lagoa is to walk around it, and it’s a great way to spend a sunny afternoon in Rio de Janeiro.

Basic Info

A paved pedestrian and bike path goes all the way around the lake, and it’s pretty busy throughout the day. The total circumference is about nine kilometers. If you only want to walk a portion of it, I suggest the southeast quadrant. This part offers the best views of the city and the mountains.

One of my favorite things about walking around Lagoa is feeling like you’ve left the city. There is so much greenery surrounding the path, and there are lots of views of rugged, rocky cliffs and green mountain forests.

Birdwatching

Since Lagoa doesn’t attract the dense crowds that Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches do, birds tend to gather in this part of Rio. They aren’t very shy and you can often observe them up close!

Keep an eye out for the “common gallinule,” which might also be referred to as a moorhen or a “frango-d’água” in Portuguese. Although they can be found throughout wet climates in North and South America, Lagoa is full of them. They have these beautiful, distinctive red frontal shields that make them easy to identify.

I Spy... Cristo Redentor

Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) can be seen from various parts of Rio de Janeiro, but Lagoa is one of the best neighborhoods to get a pretty clear view of the iconic statue.

Dusk and Night

I’ve gone on little strolls in Lagoa during dusk and in the early evening a few of times. It’s a pretty place to watch the sunset with the light reflected on the water. Lagoa is generally a safe area, and the pedestrian and bike path is still pretty busy after dark. With that said, exercise caution and stay alert if you choose to go for a walk here at night. (The same can be said for basically all parts of Rio de Janeiro.)

Jardim Botânico

This massive botanical garden (location | website) is one of Rio’s top attractions beyond its beaches. Nature lovers won’t want to miss this impressive collection of tropical plants!

The row of super-tall palm trees along the garden’s front side is a great place to take pictures, although there are lots of interesting photo-ops throughout Jardim Botânico.

Be sure to keep your eye out for animals in the park as well! Based on a quick internet search, the creatures pictured below are black capuchins (but don’t quote me on that). When I photographed them, there was a huge group running around and exploring.

Parque Lage

This is another park on Lagoa’s northern side (location | website) not too far from Jardim Botânico. It’s much smaller, but there’s no entrance fee.

The most interesting landmark here is the Escola de Artes Visuais do Parque Lage (Parque Lage Visual Art School), a building with Roman elements set in front of the rocky façade of Corcovado Mountain.

Inside is a cafe with a reflecting pool and an open-air courtyard. It’s one of the city’s most popular Instagram spots. If you go, it’s free, but you will almost certainly have to wait in line to take a picture.

If you don’t have time to wait for a photo like the one above, you can also get a good picture in front of the school itself. If the side room is open, that’s another interesting spot.

There is a trail that goes from Parque Lage to Cristo Redentor, but I never attempted it. Lots of travelers actually recommend against it. That’s because it doesn’t seem to be adequately guarded and robberies are common along it. As such, I would suggest staying in the lower part of the park where the Visual Art School is.

Other Attractions in Lagoa

Mural Area

A beautiful collection of street art can be found on Rua Oliveira Rocha and on Rua Jardim Botânico between the entrance to Parque Lage and the Hospital Federal da Lagoa. There are lots of different styles represented, and it’s quite a cool find.

Like Parque Lage and Jardim Botânico, this little mural area is another great spot in Lagoa to take a picture or two.

The Best Places to Eat in Lagoa

Lagoa is home to some of Rio de Janeiro’s fanciest restaurants, including international options. While you can still find cheap and casual restaurants here, expect to pay more for meals here than in other parts of the city. Below are four of my favorite restaurants to consider in Lagoa.

Didier Restaurante

Address: Av. Alexandre Ferreira, 66 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-220, Brazil
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/didierrestaurante/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/didier_restaurante/

This French restaurant is one of the best places in Rio to splurge on top-quality dining and drinks!

Didier Restaurante does an excellent job with appetizers, so be sure to try at least one! Even their house bread, served with tapenade, butter, and cheese, is amazing. I recommend trying their cheese sampler (tábua de queijos) or the escargot.

In terms of main dishes, their duck (magred de canard) is my favorite. And for dessert, you absolutely have to try their île flottante (floating island). This French specialty is an absolute delight, and Didier is the perfect place to try one if you’ve never had it before!

Mr. Lam

Address: R. Maria Angélica, 21 – Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-202, Brazil
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mrlamrio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mrlamrj/

For Chinese fine dining, head straight to Mr. Lam. This was the only place I’ve found in Rio that served dim sum. The crispy duck and Mr. Lam’s Noodles are both delicious and filling main dishes, and they serve a wide variety of fancy cocktails. Expect to splurge here too, but it’s worth it!

Taj Mahal Restaurante

Address: Rua José Joaquim Seabra, 19 – Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-130, Brazil
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tajmahalrio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tajmahalrio/

The food at this Indian restaurant is incredible, and I can’t recommend it enough! I loved every dish I ordered here. Don’t get me wrong: Brazilian food is full of flavor, but sometimes I crave the spice and fragrance of good Indian food. Taj Mahal’s naan, curry, rice dishes, and lassi are all amazing.

Guacamole Cocina Mexicana

Address: R. Jardim Botânico, 129 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22470-050, Brazil
Website: https://www.guacamolemex.com.br/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/guacamolemex/

This restaurant probably serves the best Mexican food I found in Rio (Mexican food is not all that common in Brazil). Although Guacamole is technically a chain with locations in multiple Brazilian states, they have a large menu of options and a fun vibe. I recommend their tacos, especially the “ribs Tex-Mex” and the “camarão com cogumelos.” When I first went, I assumed the tacos would be small like they are in Mexico, and ended up ordering way too much food!

Go Visit Lagoa!

The neighborhoods that encircle Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, especially those on its northern side, are a relaxing and green part of the city. If you’re in Rio and want to explore beyond the beaches, this is an excellent area to check out!

Have you been to Rio de Janeiro before? If you have, did you walk or bike along the shores of Lagoa? Leave a comment below and let me know! Thanks for reading!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Feb 3, 2021

The post Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas: An Upscale Lakefront District In Rio de Janeiro appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/lagoa-rodrigo-de-freitas-an-upscale-lakefront-district-in-rio-de-janeiro/feed/ 4 14049
Tortuga Tur & Saveiro Don Juan Tour Reviews (Arraial do Cabo, RJ, Brazil) https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tortuga-tur-saveiro-don-juan-tour-reviews-arraial-do-cabo-rj-brazil/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tortuga-tur-saveiro-don-juan-tour-reviews-arraial-do-cabo-rj-brazil/#comments Wed, 27 Jan 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=14532 Arraial do Cabo is known for its sparkling Caribbean waters and laid-back vibe, but a couple of the town’s best beaches are only accessible by boat tour. This post will review two boat tours I went on, compare them, and at the end I’ll provide a quick summary of a jeep tour, which is another way to get to know Arraial...

The post Tortuga Tur & Saveiro Don Juan Tour Reviews (Arraial do Cabo, RJ, Brazil) appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

Tortuga Tur & Saveiro Don Juan Tour Reviews (Arraial do Cabo, RJ, Brazil)

Tortuga Tur & Saveiro Don Juan Tour Reviews (Arraial do Cabo, RJ, Brazil)

Published January 27, 2021

Are you the kind of traveler who loves going off the beaten path and exploring local communities that friends back home have almost certainly never heard of? If you are, then you need to make a note of Arraial do Cabo for your next visit to Rio de Janeiro! This small town located about 160 km east of Rio is known for its sparkling Caribbean waters and laid-back vibe.

Arraial do Cabo (pronounced “ah-hai-OW du CA-bo”) is compact and walkable, but a couple of the town’s best beaches are only accessible by boat tour. This post will review two boat tours I went on, compare them, and at the end I’ll provide a quick summary of a jeep tour, which is another way to get to know Arraial.

If you’re curious about the town itself and what you can expect overall, check out my comprehensive guide using the image link below! Otherwise, let’s get started on these tour reviews!

Boat Tour #1: Don Juan Tour

This company also goes by Saveiro Don Juan. Their booking office is located here, and the price of the boat tour per person is 100 BRL per person (as of January 2020). I’m sure you could purchase tickets online, but I bought mine in person at the office. One thing I loved right off the bat is that the office doubles as a cafe. Even though you have to be there early if you opt for the morning tour, you can get coffee and a small breakfast before heading over to the docks as a group.

When you get to the dock, you’ll need to bring cash to pay the 10 BRL marina tax. This is true no matter what company you book with, and employees should inform you of this when you buy your tickets.

A tour guide will direct you to the boat. Since there are a lot of different companies and vessels at the dock, it’s best to keep a close eye on your guide until embarking. You’ll have to submit the slip of paper you got when you paid the 10 reais as tax, so don’t throw it away until you get on the boat.

The vessel operated by Don Juan Tour

Stop 1/4: Praia do Farol

On this tour, our first stop was Praia do Farol (Lighthouse Beach). Because this beach is located on Ilha do Farol (Lighthouse Island), it’s one of the beaches that can only be accessed by boat tour. It’s also possibly the most picturesque spot in Arraial do Cabo, nestled between the lightest shade of ocean water you’ll find in this region and gently sloping sand dunes behind it.

Note that you’re not allowed to bring anything except a phone (and a mask during the pandemic) to this beach. That’s because it’s a protected natural reserve, so even flip flops aren’t permitted. If you’re going to bring your phone, you might want to purchase one of the waterproof necklace-style cases that are sold around town and at the marina for between 5 and 10 BRL.

Stop 2/4: Gruta Azul

After this stop, the boat will bring you around to Ilha do Farol’s rocky southwestern coastline to see some grottos in the rocky shore as well as the Fenda de Nossa Senhora, a massive break in the rocky cliffs that shelters a statue of a saint. At this stop, we didn’t disembark or swim, so have your cameras ready.

Fenda de Nossa Senhora

Stop 3/4: Praia do Pontal do Atalaia

Next, you’ll be given some time to explore Praia do Pontal do Atalaia. This beach is on the mainland. Based on Google Maps, it looks like it might have some dirt roads and hiking trails that lead out here, but it’s much simpler to see this beach as part of the boat tour.

At this stop, you can purchase drinks or snacks from a number of vendors, so bring some cash with you if you’re interested.

Stop 4/4: Praia do Forno

The fourth and final stop on this tour is Praia do Forno. This beach actually is easily accessible on foot from the town center, but the boat will drop the anchor somewhere in the bay and allow guests to swim for a bit. In comparison to the two beaches mentioned above, this one isn’t as spectacular, but it’s still nice to be able to get into the water to cool off for a bit.

Finally, the boat returns to the docks and passengers can go on their way.

Boat Tour #2: Tortuga Tur

The itinerary for the other company I tried called Tortuga Tur was very similar to the one for Don Juan. They have a corporate office closer to the docks where you can buy tickets. This tour was cheaper at only 70 BRL per person (in January 2021). Although they were just slightly more conveniently located, Tortuga Tur did not have a cafe at their meeting point.

No matter which company you book with, remember to bring cash for the 10 BRL marina tax. The boat for Tortuga is shown below. One thing I really liked about this one was that it had an upper deck, which Don Juan’s vessel did not. This, along with the cheaper ticket price, meant that Tortuga offered a better deal, although the 30 BRL difference is only about 5 USD and some change at the time of writing.

Just by coincidence, I booked my Tortuga tour in the afternoon and did Don Juan in the morning. I’ll talk a bit more about which one I recommend in the section below. Under normal circumstances, most companies appear to offer both time slots to choose from. Note that availability may be reduced due to COVID-19.

On this tour, our first stop was the rocky grottos and sea caves on Ilha do Farol. It was the same deal: a quick stop for pictures but not enough time to check it out on foot or go for a swim.

After this, we disembarked for a while on Praia do Farol, followed by Praia do Pontal do Atalaia. And just like with Don Juan, the final stop was also the opportunity to swim or relax while anchored offshore near Praia do Forno.

Praia do Farol
Looking towards Praia do Farol
Praia do Pontal do Atalaia
Praia do Forno

General Information

Regardless what company you book with, you’ll want to dress as if you were headed to the beach. Bring flip flops, a swimsuit, sunscreen, a mask during the pandemic, and possibly a towel or a change of clothes. Don’t expect to stay dry unless you’re okay never leaving the boat, which is technically an option.

In order to get from the main boat to shore at Praia do Farol and Praia do Pontal do Atalaia, all tour companies use small motorized dinghies. Note what your dinghy and your tour guide look like. There are going to be a handful of them on the beaches and it can be easy to lose track of them.

Furthermore, pay attention to how long you have on each beach. Employees appear to do headcounts before moving on from each stop, but you don’t want to be the person to hold up the boat because you lost track of time. If you don’t understand the announcements in Portuguese, ask for help! Employees will almost certainly be able to translate into English and Spanish!

Snacks and drinks, including alcoholic beverages, are served for an additional cost on board both companies’ boats. You can also purchase something to eat from a vendor at Praia do Pontal do Atalaia.

Expect the boats to have a professional photographer or two, but know that they are contractors who you have to pay if you want to purchase any of the shots they take. They are unfortunately not there to take pictures of you with your phone. I personally just asked other passengers to take photos free of charge.

A Comparison of the Tours

In general, I really liked both tours. I can’t really say that one was better than the other, but Tortuga was slightly cheaper and their boat with an upper deck was an added bonus. I don’t think you could go wrong by booking with either of these companies.

Another interesting question is whether you should book a tour in the morning or afternoon. Although there are tradeoffs for both, I have to say I think morning is better for a number of reasons. Although being out the door by 7:00 a.m. was a little rough, the beaches are less crowded in the morning. It’s also still a bit cooler for the first hour or two of the tour, although by noon it can already be quite hot.

If you care about taking pictures, the natural light is definitely better on Praia do Farol in the morning. In contrast, it’ll be easier to take good shots on Praia do Pontal do Atalaia in the afternoon. In my personal opinion, the color of the water in the bay is a little more impressive in the morning. It’s a stunning light blue all day long, but it tends to be just a shade darker in the afternoon.

Praia do Farol
Praia do Pontal do Atalaia

The main drawback to booking a morning tour is that you might wake up to cloudy weather. For an afternoon tour, you have the option of trying to buy tickets once you’ve confirmed that it’ll be a nice day, although this might be more difficult if you’re trying to do so on a weekend.

Jeep (Buggy) Tour Summary

Don’t forget that buggy land tours are also a common offering in Arraial do Cabo! I chose to do one with Tortuga Tur, which cost 200 BRL. However, the Jeep looked like it would accommodate up to three passengers, so if you’re in a group you could split that cost. Here’s a quick overview of what we did.

After leaving the Tortuga Tur main office, we drove to the edge of town to see the southern end of Praia do Pontal. This is too far from the town center to walk, and I wouldn’t have thought to check this beach out on my own, but it was pretty amazing. The dark blue water here is totally different from the beaches that are part of the boat tour itineraries.

We continued to go further north along the shore before eventually heading back.

The last stop was Mirante da Boa Vista, a scenic viewpoint overlooking Praia Grande on the western side of town. Although you can technically get to this lookout without a tour, it’s on the edge of a small favela. If you’d like to visit the Mirante without a buggy tour, I would at least recommend hiring an Uber to get there and back instead of walking up and down the hill.

After this, we headed back to the office. This Jeep tour was nice but I would personally say that it’s optional. In contrast, I highly recommend doing at least one boat tour during a visit to Arraial do Cabo.

Enjoy Your Tour!

I hope that this post will help guide visitors to Arraial do Cabo in the right direction! Are you in town and shopping around for the best deal? Have you been to Arraial do Cabo before? Leave a comment below and let me know! If you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them! Thanks for reading, and bon voyage!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Jan 27, 2021

The post Tortuga Tur & Saveiro Don Juan Tour Reviews (Arraial do Cabo, RJ, Brazil) appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/tortuga-tur-saveiro-don-juan-tour-reviews-arraial-do-cabo-rj-brazil/feed/ 5 14532
Arraial do Cabo: Crystal Clear Caribbean Waters In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/arraial-do-cabo-crystal-clear-caribbean-waters-in-rio-de-janeiro-brazil/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/arraial-do-cabo-crystal-clear-caribbean-waters-in-rio-de-janeiro-brazil/#comments Mon, 25 Jan 2021 03:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=14308 One thing I love about the Brazilian state of Rio de Janeiro is that it has much more to offer than the world-famous city of the same name that serves as its capital. Along the state’s coastline are dozens of idyllic small towns that all have unique vibes and stunning beaches. Arraial do Cabo is about a two or three hour drive east of Rio...

The post Arraial do Cabo: Crystal Clear Caribbean Waters In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

Arraial do Cabo: Crystal Clear Caribbean Waters In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Arraial do Cabo: Crystal Clear Caribbean Waters In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Published January 25, 2021

One thing I love about the Brazilian state of Rio de Janeiro is that it has much more to offer than the world-famous city of the same name that serves as its capital. Along the state’s coastline are dozens of idyllic small towns that all have unique vibes and stunning beaches. To the east, you can find the historic gems of Paraty and Angra dos Reis (Ilha Grande). Further west of the city, you’ll find the resort towns of Cabo Frio, Armação dos Búzios, and Arraial do Cabo.

A four-day visit to Arraial do Cabo was my first exposure to the southeast corner of RJ state, and the beaches here are better than what you’ll find in Angra dos Reis or Paraty. That’s because the water is such a light shade of blue that you’ll think you were somewhere in the Caribbean!

Arraial do Cabo (pronounced “ah-hai-OW du CA-bo”) is about a two or three hour drive east of Rio (the city). If you’re planning on spending two weeks or longer in RJ state, I highly recommend scheduling two or three days to check out one of these coastal towns, and you can’t go wrong by choosing Arraial do Cabo. This post will explain what to expect and why you should go! I’ll highlight some of the beaches, mention a few tours, give my opinion of the town, talk about restaurant options, and end with a few tips.

Beaches

If you look at a map of Arraial, you’ll notice that there are about half a dozen main beaches. Some are only accessible by boat tour (more on that below), but most are easy to get to from the town center on foot. Here’s a quick overview of four of them.

Praia dos Anjos

This beach is adjacent to the town’s marina, and admittedly is the least impressive of all the ones mentioned here. Take a quick walk along the water, but don’t spend all day on this beach. Every other one mentioned below has nicer waters.

Praia dos Anjos behind the Arraial do Cabo town docks

Praia do Forno

Praia do Forno, which means “Oven Beach,” can be reached by walking along a short hiking trail that starts near the marina and ends on the beach’s southern side. It takes about fifteen minutes each way, and there are some steps. The only other way to get to this beach is by boat as it’s surrounded by forests and no roads lead to it.

Normally, I’m quite cautious about hiking in Brazil because it’s notorious for being unsafe due to thieves, but this short hike has enough people walking along it throughout the day that it’s not dangerous. Arraial do Cabo has a lot of other hiking trails, but I wouldn’t recommend doing any other treks without consulting a local.

Prainha

Of the four beaches listed here, this one (pronounced “praiña” and meaning “Little Beach”) has to be my favorite! It’s easy to get to, and the color of the water is stunning!

A number of hotels are built right along the sand, and they all seem to set up umbrellas and chairs for their guests. I imagine some are also available for the general public to rent for the day. Because Prainha has beautiful water but isn’t a huge beach, it’s more crowded than the others in town.

Praia Grande

As the name suggests, this is the largest beach in town. In fact, it technically stretches on for miles and miles uninterrupted, well beyond the city limits of Arraial do Cabo. There’s a little scenic plaza right here that offers a good view, or you could venture down to the beach itself.

Since Praia Grande is the only west-facing beach in town, it’s undoubtedly the best place to catch the sunset. This is a much more pleasant time to visit anyways, since the beach is wide open with no shade. During the day, the white sand here can actually get pretty hot to the touch.

All About Tours

As mentioned above, a couple of the town’s best beaches are only accessible by boat tour. This is why you simply can’t miss booking one during your visit to Arraial do Cabo! I did two different boat tours to compare the experience between companies, which are discussed in a separate post.

The other type of tour you can do in Arraial is a buggy (jeep) tour. I’ve covered this in my separate tour review post as well. In short, the buggy tour is nice to do if you have an extra day with nothing planned, but it’s not a must.

The Town

This is the one less-than-positive comment I’ll make about Arraial do Cabo: the town itself isn’t super quaint. It’s by no means bad, but there isn’t really a historic center or anything like that. Don’t let that stop you from visiting, though! The gorgeous beaches more than make up for it.

Dining Options

In terms of food, I found that the town had pretty standard Brazilian options. Needless to say, there were quite a few seafood restaurants. Everything I tried there was good, but I did notice while browsing online that a fair number of places had many negative reviews. I always take online reviews with a grain of salt, but it does suggest that restaurants in Arraial do Cabo could be hit or miss.

Here are a couple of the places I recommend.

1. Restaurante Casa da Piedra

Address: R. Santa Cruz, 4 – Praia dos Anjos, Arraial do Cabo – RJ, 28930-000
Website: https://casadapiedra.com.br/home/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/casadapiedra
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/casadapiedra/

This was a great place to grab dinner, and its location right next to the town’s boat tour dock is convenient. I enjoyed both the fish with rice and shrimp sauce and fresh mango salad I ordered.

Casa da Pedra has a nice open-air patio and even offered live music after nightfall. For good food and a casual atmosphere, this is the place to go.

2. Restaurante Saint Tropez

Address: Praça Daniel Barreto, 2 – Praia dos Anjos, Arraial do Cabo – RJ, 28930-000
Website: https://www.saintropez.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/restaurantesainttropez/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/restaurantesainttropez/

If you want a sit-down dinner experience that is still fairly casual, check out Saint Tropez. They offered a very extensive couvert (appetizer platter) complete with mussels, quail eggs, salami, cheese, butter, and bread. I also tried a fish curry with mango and yellow rice, which was very interesting and fragrant.

3. Quiosque Flor do Caribe

Address: Praia dos Anjos

Sometimes these beach kiosks can really miss the mark, but this one on Praia dos Anjos was quite good! I ordered fried fish with pirão, a kind of orange fish-based gravy that is often served with seafood in Brazil. Adventurous eaters should definitely try it if they see it on a menu, or it may automatically come with some dishes. You’ll often get fries and/or a salad with a lunch combo like this, too.

4. Restaurante Tio Dorp

Address: Praça Daniel Barreto n10 – Praia dos Anjos, Arraial do Cabo – RJ, 28930-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tiodorp/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/restaurantetiodorp/

I wasn’t sure if this restaurant would be good or not because it was pretty empty when I went, but it ended up being one of my favorites! I ordered octopus which was cooked perfectly and served with just the right combo of grilled potatoes and onions, white rice, and a small salad to balance out the meal perfectly. I also tried a cocktail and an appetizer of fried cheese, which were both equally good. Don’t pass this one up if you’re in the general area near Praia dos Anjos!

Tips

A visit to Arraial do Cabo is pretty self-explanatory, but here are just a few tips for a smooth visit.

Where to Stay

The town is fairly small and compact, so I don’t think there’s any “wrong” answers here. However, I stayed in a guesthouse a short walk from the marina and I’m glad I did, because boat tours leave early in the morning from here. If I didn’t stay here, I would’ve probably chosen a place near Prainha or Praia Grande.

Entrance to the marina

Safety

In general, the town of Arraial felt safe to me as a solo traveler. There are some favelas but if you stick to the main streets in Centro and near Praia dos Anjos, you shouldn’t accidentally wander into one. Favelas are almost always located on hills and are easily distinguished from other parts of towns by their colorful cube-shaped brick houses, so this shouldn’t be a point of concern.

Walking around the main streets in Arraial do Cabo after dinner also felt safe, but I tend to stay in after about 9:00 p.m. if I’m in a town I’m not very familiar with in Brazil.

How to Get to Arraial do Cabo

I’m sure that there are many bus options to get to Arraial do Cabo from Rio de Janeiro, but due to COVID-19 I took an Uber both ways with windows down the entire time and masks on. Each ride cost about 300 BRL and took between two and three hours.

Who should visit Arraial do Cabo?

Rio de Janeiro has so many seaside towns near the capital that choosing only one can be tough. Options include Paraty, Angra dos Reis, Ilha Grande, Cabo Frio, Armação dos Búzios, and Arraial do Cabo. (This list doesn’t even include popular weekend getaway destinations that are further inland.)

What kind of a traveler should choose Arraial do Cabo? If you love amazing beaches but don’t need a historic city center, this is the destination for you. Words can’t describe how beautiful the water is here, and pictures don’t do it justice. It’s something you simply have to experience in person!

What do you think? Would you set aside a couple of days on a visit to Rio de Janeiro to see Arraial do Cabo? Leave a comment below and let me know! And if you’re headed out this way, be sure to check out my boat and buggy tour review post, too! Thanks for reading!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Jan 25, 2021

The post Arraial do Cabo: Crystal Clear Caribbean Waters In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/arraial-do-cabo-crystal-clear-caribbean-waters-in-rio-de-janeiro-brazil/feed/ 7 14308
The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon” https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-visitors-guide-to-santa-teresa-rio-de-janeiros-little-lisbon/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-visitors-guide-to-santa-teresa-rio-de-janeiros-little-lisbon/#comments Sun, 03 Jan 2021 18:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=13796 The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon” The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon” Published January 3, 2021 This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support! […]

The post The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon” appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon”

The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon”

Published January 3, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Did you know that Rio de Janeiro has a little slice of Europe tucked away on one of its suburban hillsides? Santa Teresa is a beautiful area that will make you feel like you’re in Portugal until you come across one of its many scenic lookout spots, reminding you that you’re still in Brazil!

If you’ve already spent some time in Rio enjoying the beaches, visiting Christ the Redeemer, and riding the Pão de Açúcar cable car, you should check out some of the lesser-known parts of the city. Santa Teresa isn’t the only option, but it is a place you definitely won’t regret spending a sunny morning or afternoon. This post will explain how to get there and what to do when you arrive!

Where exactly is Santa Teresa?

This is a question worth asking, and the answer isn’t immediately obvious! Other travel blogs might recommend spending an afternoon in this hilly, upscale neighborhood without explaining where to go. Google Maps isn’t exactly helpful, either: it shows a miles-long, weirdly-shaped area stretching from northeast to southwest. Perhaps these are the official boundaries of Santa Teresa.

The answer is that Santa Teresa is centered at Largo do Guimarães (Guimarães Plaza), located here. Once you arrive, you can explore the surroundings at your own pace, and there is no shortage of interesting things to discover nearby. Listed below are three different ways to get there: on foot, by trolley, or using Uber.

Option 1: Walk from Escadaria Selarón

Escadaria Selarón is a famous alley that was transformed into a massive work of art by Chilean-Brazilian artist Jorge Selarón. It’s another must-see for any visitor to Rio, and will be covered in more depth in a future post about the area where it’s located, Lapa.

Escadaria Selarón

If you climb all the way to the top of the stairs, you’ll find yourself on a road called Ladeira de Santa Teresa. Turn left and continue up the hill, and when you come to the T-intersection, turn right. Follow Rua Dias de Barros, which turns into Rua Alm. Alexandrino, and you’ll find yourself at Largo do Guimarães.

Option 2: Take the tram

The old-fashioned yellow tram is a symbol of Santa Teresa and one of the reasons this neighborhood feels so much like Lisbon. Riding the tram is an easy way to get from Centro (Rio’s downtown) to Santa Teresa. It starts at the Estação de Bondes de Santa Teresa, passes over the Carioca Aqueduct, and runs along Rua Joaquim Murtinho, which merges into Rua Alm. Alexandrino at Largo do Curvelo.

The trolley moving across the top of the Carioca Aqueduct

The final stop of the tram line is here. After a brief stop, it turns around and goes back towards downtown. I have some more comments about the tram as a tourist attraction at the end of this post, but if you’re using it as a means of transportation, I recommend staying on until it reaches the terminal stop and turns around. You can get off at Largo do Guimarães on the return trip.

Option 3: Use Uber

Uber and other similar apps are the most straightforward way to make it to Largo do Guimarães. However, it’s the least scenic means of transportation.

Largo do Guimarães

Enjoying this post? Follow me on social media to stay up to date!

Enjoying this post? Follow me on social media to stay up to date!

Points of Interest in Santa Teresa

Now that you know how to get there, let’s take a look at some of the things that make Santa Teresa such an interesting part of Rio de Janeiro.

Traditional Architecture

This area is reminiscent of Lisbon due to the traditional Portugese architecture and the winding cobblestone streets with trolley tracks. If you look at a map of Largo do Guimarães, the whole thing can end up looking pretty maze-like, so it’s best to just arrive and get a sense of the layout on foot.

Largo do Curvelo, another tram stop in Santa Teresa

In terms of architecture, Santa Teresa has a lot of bright colors, typical red tile rooftops, azulejos (Portuguese ceramic tiles that are often but not always blue and white), as well as the occasional castle motif.

It’s clear that at least in the vicinity of Largo do Guimarães, Santa Teresa is a pretty upscale residential area.

Bars and Restaurants

A quick walk around the neighborhood is all you need to know that a lot of trendy bars and restaurants are clustered near Largo do Guimarães. Here are three that I tried to give you an idea of what’s available.

Café do Alto

I will never turn down cuisine from the Brazilian northeast, so I had to get lunch at Café do Alto when I passed by it. The fish with farofa and mashed plantain I got was amazing! So was the roll cake (bolo de rolo) for dessert, which is a specialty from Pernambuco.

Térèze

This high-end restaurant connected to the MGallery Santa Teresa Hotel offers a creative, modern menu. I enjoyed the vegan moqeuca I ordered and the pavlova cake served with passion fruit and ice cream for dessert.

Explorer Bar

This bar with a large outdoor patio had a unique selection of cocktails inspired from Brazil and around the world. Their food menu includes some international dishes, so I’m hoping to go back and see if they make a good nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice) or satay chicken. The two drinks I tried were delicious, so I imagine the food would be good, too!

Scenic Viewpoints

Be sure to take some time while you’re in Santa Teresa to admire the panoramic views of Rio from the neighborhood’s many lookout spots. Here are four that I found, but I’m sure there are others as well.

Mirante do Rato Molhado

This one has a funny name that means “Wet Rat Lookout” in Portuguese, but the view of Niterói to the southeast is amazing, especially with the domestic airport and the area known as Glória in the foreground.

Rua Joaquim Murtinho

Follow the trolley tracks from Largo do Curvelo down the hill a bit to see a relatively close-up view of the city skyline, including a good view of the Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião (the cone-shaped cathedral) and the Edifício Sede da Petrobras (a corporate building that has a unique checkerboard design).

Rua Dias de Barros

This quiet little lookout that you’ll pass by if you’re walking up from Escadaria Selarón offers a unique perspective of Botafogo and Pão de Açucar looking directly south.

Rua Alm. Alexandrino

From Largo do Guimarães, this road snakes its way to the southwest along the crest of a hill ridge. It offers some incredible views of downtown Rio and Guanabara Bay to the north. It also will allow you to see some favelas without having to enter them.

I’ve been as far south as the final trolley stop (located here).Walking along this part of the road didn’t feel dangerous, but it was a pretty quiet street. Staying alert is never a bad idea. You could also ride the trolley down to this point and then walk back; below is a bit more information about that.

Review of the Santa Teresa Tram

As mentioned above, the tram is a quick and convenient way to get from Rio’s Centro district up to Santa Teresa. However, you should be aware that it’s not exactly the best tourist attraction, and here’s why. The trolley moves pretty quickly and whisks passengers through the center of Santa Teresa without giving them much time to take anything in. There’s also no tour or narration, so it’s not a great way to learn about anything you’re seeing.

Furthermore, the trolley route starts downtown, ends at a fairly random stop, then returns to the city center along the same route. If you’re not paying attention, you’ll end up exactly where you started! That’s why I recommend getting off at Largo do Guimarães on the return trip. Adventurous travelers who want to enjoy the views along Rua Alm. Alexandrino can alternatively get off at Dois Irmãos trolley stop and walk about half an hour back to Largo do Guimarães.

Is riding the tram a cool thing to do? Yes. Are you missing out on an integral experience if you don’t have time for it? No. From downtown, tickets can be purchased at the station here and cost 20 BRL for a round-trip.

Would you visit Santa Teresa?

Travelers who are only spending a couple days in Rio de Janeiro may not have time to check out Santa Teresa. But if you’re staying for a week or longer, you should absolutely spend an afternoon over there on a clear day. The views are stunning and the bohemian atmosphere is a nice change of pace from the crowded beaches.

What do you think? Does this lesser-known part of Rio interest you? Leave a comment below and let me know! If you are heading that way, enjoy your time at Largo do Guimarães! Thanks for reading!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Jan 3, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

The post The Visitor’s Guide To Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro’s “Little Lisbon” appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-visitors-guide-to-santa-teresa-rio-de-janeiros-little-lisbon/feed/ 12 13796
The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-cafes-in-rio-de-janeiro-brazil-where-to-get-your-caffeine-fix/ https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-cafes-in-rio-de-janeiro-brazil-where-to-get-your-caffeine-fix/#comments Fri, 01 Jan 2021 15:00:00 +0000 https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/?p=13779 As a travel blogger, I’ve lived in both Vietnam and Brazil, the two largest coffee-producing countries in the world. After living in Rio de Janeiro for almost four months, I’ve found the city’s best places to get a latte, mocha, or espresso. This blog post will feature some of my top recommendations!

The post The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>

The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix

The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix

Published January 1, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

As a travel blogger, I’ve lived in both Vietnam and Brazil, the two largest coffee-producing countries in the world. While Vietnam has more coffee shops than you can ever dream of, they’re much harder to come by in Brazil. Luckily, this hasn’t stopped me from looking! After living in Rio de Janeiro for almost four months, I’ve found the city’s best places to get a latte, mocha, or espresso. This blog post will feature some of my top recommendations!

A coffee-themed mural in Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro

1. Tiny Cat Café

Address: Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 308 – loja B – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22020-001
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cafetinycat
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cafetinycat/

Tiny Cat Café is at the top of the list because it’s my favorite coffeeshop in Rio. Their decor and branding are on point, and of course, they make a great cup of coffee! I’ve been a regular customer for months and tend to order their vanilla cold brew. They also make great lattes and other hot drinks.

The staff at Tiny Cat are also really friendly and welcoming. (Just be aware that this cafe doesn’t have actual cats roaming around, like some cat cafes in Asia do.) If you’re in Copacabana near the Cardeal Arcoverde metro station or Belmond Copacabana Palace hotel, be sure to check this place out!

2. Confeitaria Colombo

Address: R. Gonçalves Dias, 32 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20050-030
Website: http://www.confeitariacolombo.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ConfeitariaColombo/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/confeitariacolombo/

This massive, famous establishment in Centro (downtown) is an absolute must-visit for coffee and dessert lovers. Confeitaria Colombo has a gorgeous Portuguese dining room lined with huge mirrors, glass cupboards, and traditional floor tiles. If you’re a fan of egg tarts (pastéis de nata), this is a great place to get a few.

You can also order a full meal here, and it’s my understanding that the upper floor is reserved for customers dining in for lunch. During peak hours, you may have to wait a bit to be seated.

3. Bendito Cookies Brownies Café

Address: Condomínio do Edifício Pilar – Rua Hilário de Gouvêia, 88 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22040-020
Website: https://benditocookies.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/benditocookies/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/benditocookies/

I have to admit that Bendito Café is more of a cookie shop than a coffeehouse, but don’t let that stop you from visiting! Tucked away in the interior of Copacabana a few blocks in from the beach, this little store serves their cookies hot, and they truly melt in your mouth. I can’t remember the last time I had such amazing store-bought cookies!

If you’re going to get a cookie or two, be sure to order a latte or mocha to go with it! The coffee and sweets from Bendito go great together.

Bendito Cookies Brownies Café has a few other locations around Rio de Janeiro as well, but their website doesn’t list exact addresses as of January 2021.

Enjoying this post? Follow me on social media to stay up to date!

Enjoying this post? Follow me on social media to stay up to date!

4. Mini Joe Café

Address: Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana, 300 – Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22020-001
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/minijoe.cafe/

This sleek, modern coffee shop is actually right next to Tiny Cat. If you’re staying in or near Copacabana, you might as well check out both! Mini Joe has a creative menu with unique offerings such as coffee infused with orange and cinnamon. They also make a good cold brew.

5. Fika Cafés Especiais

Address: R. do Carmo, 58 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20011-020
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fika%20Cafes%20Rj/233948600847463/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fikacafes/

I am actually not sure if the name “Fika” refers to Swedish coffee culture or is a reference to the very common and versatile Portuguese verb “ficar,” which means to stay. Either reference would be fitting, as Fika Cafés Especiais is an ideal place to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee for a while.

As you can see, they’ve got a very Instagrammable umbrella theme going on both inside and out, although I’m not sure if that’s permanent or seasonal. Fika is located in one of the narrow alleyways of Centro (downtown), so you could check it out after a visit to the nearby Museu do Amanhã or Ilha Fiscal.

The most notable thing about this place is its huge menu with pages and pages of coffee and tea selections. I just chose one of their menu iced latte options, and it was both smooth and rich.

6. Mô Café

Address: R. Santa Cristina, 181 – Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20241-250
Website: https://mocafesanta.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mocafesanta/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mocafesanta/

This is the perfect place to caffeinate if you’re visiting the beautiful neighborhood of Santa Teresa. Mô Café is small, but it’s got a wonderfully casual vibe. You can also check out the gift shop of the same name next door while you wait for your drink.

7. Rishikesh Café (Govardhana Hari Restaurante)

Address: R. Rodrigo Silva, 6 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20011-040
Website: http://rishikesh.com.br/about-us/ (or http://govardhana.com.br/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Govardhana-Har%C3%AD/690272131077964
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/govardhana.restaurante/

This cafe is actually the second floor of a vegetarian Indian restaurant that I will absolutely be featuring on my international cuisine and restaurant guide for Rio [coming soon]. The lunch combo they serve in the restaurant is amazing, but head on up to the second floor for a bright and open yet cozy cafe!

This is one of the only places I know in Rio that serves Indian chai, but they also do standard lattes. There are also some gifts and souvenirs for sale here, too.

Note that as of January 2021, Google Maps lists this restaurant’s name as “Veggie Govinda Sabor da Índia,” which is not accurate. Perhaps they renamed at some point, but don’t let this confuse you! The address and physical location on Google Maps is correct.

8. Empório Jardim

Address: R. Visc. da Graça, 51 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22461-010
Website: https://www.emporiojardimrio.com.br/en/home-2/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/emporiojardimrio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/emporiojardimrio/

This little cafe in the neighborhood of Jardim Botânico is well known for its breakfast, but it’s also perfect for an afternoon coffee break. Like most other cafes featured in this list, Empório Jardim has a meticulously designed interior; it feels sort of woodsy and outdoorsy.

When you see their pastries and cakes on display at the counter, it’ll be hard to resist one. The fruit tarts here go perfectly with their iced lattes.

If Jardim Botânico is a bit out of the way, Empório has a second location in Ipenema that’s easy to get to via the metro. That one is called Empório Jardim na Praia (Empório Jardim on the Beach).

9. Casa Cavé

Address: R. Sete de Setembro, 137/133 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20050-006
Website: http://www.casacave.com.br
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/confeitariacave
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/casa.cave

This one is actually more of a bake shop than a cafe, sort of like Confeitaria Colombo except that it’s a small fraction of the size. It’s housed in an elegant, eye-catching corner shop that is sure to pique your curiosity whether you know what it is or not when you walk by. What’s more, this happens to be the oldest bake shop in all of Rio de Janeiro, founded in 1860!

Walk inside and you’ll see a small dining room before turning left to order whatever sweets or coffee you may be craving. Confeitaria Colombo and Casa Cavé share a couple of interior design elements, including large mirrors on the walls and ornate floor tiles. If you’re interested in checking out a historic, culinary icon of the city, don’t miss this gem of a bakery!

10. Dark Coffee Centro Rio

Address: R. Beneditinos, 22 – Centro, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 20081-050
Website: https://www.darkcoffeebr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Darkcoffeerio/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/darkcoffeerio/

This final recommendation on the list is a large cafe near the famous Museu do Amanhã (Museum of Tomorrow) on Mauá Plaza. Housed in a long shop on one of the area’s quieter side streets, Dark Coffee isn’t a place you’re likely to find by accident. However, it’s definitely worth checking out if you’re spending the day in Downtown Rio!

They have a large menu of food and drinks, so I decided to try one of their cakes. I was also immediately intrigued by their cookie cup, so I decided to order that with a cappuccino inside it (shown in the photo below with the dollop of whipped cream on top). It was a very interesting, with the inside of the edible cup being glazed with a thin layer of chocolate to prevent the edible cup from crumbling and the coffee leaking out. I’ve never seen anything like that before, and I recommend trying it!

Well, that wraps up my list! Have you been to any of the cafes listed here? Do you have any other coffee recommendations in Rio? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading and see you next time!

Share This Post With Fellow Travelers!

This post was published on Jan 1, 2021

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

The post The Best Cafes In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Where To Get Your Caffeine Fix appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

]]>
https://caffeinatedexcursions.com/the-best-cafes-in-rio-de-janeiro-brazil-where-to-get-your-caffeine-fix/feed/ 13 13779