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Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 15 Aug 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas

Published August 15, 2020

If you’ve decided to visit the small town of Cunha in the Brazilian state of São Paulo, congratulations: you’re in for a treat! This small town offers stunning views and a relaxing getaway from the two nearby cities of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro (both within a 4 hour drive away).

While Cunha itself is incredibly picturesque, there honestly isn’t much to do in town. You’ll want to give yourself a day or two to appreciate the atmosphere, but most of the activities in Cunha will involve day trips further into the countryside. If you’re interested in learning about what makes the town of Cunha so special, click or tap the image below!

In this post, I’ll feature five day trip options: a lavender farm, a couple of waterfalls, an even smaller town nearby, a hike, and a massive church (one of the largest in the world, in fact). At the end, I’ll provide some tips about how to get around and which day trip I recommend most. Let’s go!

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1. O Lavandário

The first day trip I’ll mention is O Lavandário, a modest lavender farm a couple of kilometers south of Cunha. This is probably the easiest day trip to do, and will only take an hour or two.

This farm has a footpath that forms a small loop, some greenhouses, and a souvenir shop. Compared to other lavender fields on Instagram with rows of flowers as far as the eye can see, O Lavandário is admittedly a bit small.

Although the fields aren’t exactly sprawling, O Lavandário more than makes up for this with its stunning views. The farm is situated atop a pretty large hill that offers an incredible panoramic view to the north and northwest.

As of August 2020, it costs 15 BRL per person to get in. Also, check the operating hours on the website before you take the taxi ride out there: O Lavandário wasn’t open every day. This is perhaps because it’s low season right now, plus the pandemic may have further reduced hours.

Stop for lunch or a beer on the way back

On the way back into town, you’ll pass by a brewery called Cervejaria Caminho do Ouro. It’s hard to miss because it’s a pretty large building right next to the road and there’s nothing else nearby.

This is the perfect place to stop for a hearty lunch or a beer if you’ve already eaten. The food was a bit expensive given that it’s clearly aimed at attracting tourists, but the steak I got there was delicious nonetheless. They also sell bottled beer in addition to brews on tap.

2. A Pair of Waterfalls

This day trip will bring you out to a couple of waterfalls to the east of town. Unlike the trip to O Lavandário, the drive to the falls will bring you down a windy dirt road. Although both trips are roughly the same distance away, getting to the waterfalls takes almost 40 minutes, while Cunha to O Lavandário is only a 20-minute drive.

Cachoeira do Pimenta

The main attraction out here is Cachoeira do Pimenta (which means “Pepper Waterfall”). The view from the bottom is nice enough, but the more impressive falls are found a little further upstream. This is what it looks like near the parking lot.

On the right side is a dirt trail going up the hill. If you’re willing and able to go up, you’ll see a larger basin with a slightly more interesting and picturesque cascade.

The short trail from the middle to the top was pretty overgrown, but at least there was a wooden railing to hold on to. At the top, you’ll find this.

I personally like the middle portion most, but if you go up further, you’ll get a better view looking down. Just be careful: there aren’t any lifeguards here to make sure you don’t fall in. None of the falls seem big enough to be deadly, but a slip could obviously result in injury.

Cachoeira do Desterro

Visiting Cachoeira do Desterro (“Exile Waterfall”) is a bit more adventurous. The entrance is gated, and you have to walk a little ways further to get to it. It honestly sort of felt like we were trespassing onto private property, but no one told us to leave. Since getting to this waterfall is a bit odd, I would just check with your driver to confirm that they’re fine with going.

I think this one is most pretty when viewed from the bottom looking up, and luckily there’s a little path that will take you down.

A Shiitake Farm

One unexpected thing about Cunha is that it’s home to a number of shiitake mushroom farms. A lot of the upper-scale restaurants in town will offer mushroom appetizers, and all the ones I ordered were quite good.

One of these farms, Suzana Shiitake, is pretty close to both waterfalls. I wanted to check it out, but unfortunately it was closed due to COVID-19. I’m not completely sure if they offer a full restaurant service or if it’s just a place where you can buy the mushrooms, but it could be interesting to visit once they reopen. Leave a comment and let me know if you get to experience it!

3. Go Even Further Off the Grid...

This day trip is probably the most unusual, but I recommend it for adventurous travelers. If you look at a map of Cunha, you’ll see that a little winding road extends about 30 kilometers northeast to a little village called Campos de Cunha. The word “campos” in Portuguese means “fields,” but it is a bit more synonymous with the English “countryside,” so the town’s name basically means “Cunha Countryside.”

This name is apt for this tiny town of only about 3,500 residents, compared to over 20,000 in Cunha proper. Consisting of only about three main streets, Campos Novos is the place to go if you want a glimpse into truly rural life in the area.

The only real attraction I found here was another waterfall called Cachoeira do Mato Dentro. I decided to walk, which took about half an hour each way. I would maybe recommend just asking your taxi driver to take you out there, because it would only be about five minutes by car. The waterfall was nice enough, but not as impressive as the other two mentioned above.

Beyond that, there was honestly nothing to do in Campos de Cunha. I spent about five hours here, exploring every street and walking along each dirt road snaking out from the town center to admire the views. However, I was ready to leave after about three hours.

There was only a single restaurant in town that appeared open for lunch: Restaurante da Família, a grungy yet endearing place with a wild west saloon-vibe that actually made a pretty good plate of chicken over rice.

Perhaps the best reason to go out to Campos Novos is that the drive out there is so beautiful. All of the day trips here include very scenic drives with stunning views, but this one is undoubtedly the best. In addition, the road is paved the entire way and is in great condition, so it’ll be smooth and comfortable. In fact, it felt like this road was constructed on the top of a mountain ridge, because there were incredible views out of both sides of the car almost the entire way.

4. Go For a Hike at Pedra da Macela

If you’re interested in going for a hike, head on out to Pedra da Macela. In all honesty, I made this stop as I was moving from Cunha to Paraty; if you’re traveling between the two towns, you could stop here as it’s about halfway between them.

Your driver will have to stop and wait for you at this tiny parking lot because a gate prevents cars from going further up the mountain. From here, you’ll have to walk about 1.4 miles uphill to reach the peak. It was definitely a workout for me seeing as I haven’t hiked in months. The path is paved though, and you’ll basically be surrounded by forest the entire time.

Even though the hike up is tiring, I can basically guarantee that the view from the top will reinvigorate you. Just check out these shots!

The focal point of this panorama is the Pedra Macela (which means “Macela Stone”), a barren rocky structure with three peaks jutting out from the otherwise green mountains. Off in the distance you can see hills and coastlines for miles, and if you look to the southeast, you’ll see the town of Paraty. Pedra da Macela is less than 20 miles from Cunha, yet in that very short distance, the change in landscape couldn’t be more dramatic.

My one warning about this trip is that the dirt road that you have to take from the main road out to the trailhead is pretty bumpy. If you get carsick easily like I do, just keep that in mind. You’ll probably also want to bring a bottle of water with you.

5. Aparecida, Home of the Second Largest Church in the World

Last but not least, the last day trip option from Cunha is to a town about an hour away by car called Aparecida. This little town has historical significance because it happens to be home to the second-largest church in the world.

In fact, I think Aparecida has enough to see and do that it’s worth a couple days’ visit for those who have the time. If not, the church can be seen in a single day, but you’ll want to probably leave in the morning and aim to be back in Cunha around dinner to give yourself enough time not to feel rushed. To learn more about the town of Aparecida, click here. To read all about the truly incredible cathedral, click the image link below!

Is Guaratinguetá worth a visit?

If you’re looking at a map of the region, you’ll see that there’s another larger city next to Aparecida called Guaratinguetá. If you’re wondering if this would make a good day trip, my honest answer is no, I don’t really think so. I spent one afternoon walking around the center and honestly couldn’t find anything to do. This may have been due to COVID-19, but I just got the vibe that there was little of interest; in fact, it even felt a tiny bit less safe than neighboring Aparecida.

This was just my first impression after exploring on foot for an hour or two. Perhaps there is more to see and do on the other side of the river that divides Guaratinguetá in two, but I’d say that you’re much better off seeing the cathedral in Aparecida than spending a day in this neighboring city.

Additional Info

How should you get around?

As someone who loves exploring on foot, let me first say that unfortunately, none of these trips are really close enough to walk from Cunha. Even if you’re willing to do a long hike to get to one of them, I don’t recommend it. That’s because you won’t have cell service and there is nowhere along the way to stop for food, a bathroom, or anything else you might need.

With that in mind, your only real option is to hire a taxi. Since Uber doesn’t operate in Cunha (as of August 2020), you’ll have to ask your hotel, accommodation, or Airbnb host to refer you to a local driver.

The prices may seem a bit steep (between 100 and 150 BRL per day trip mentioned here). That’s because for all of them except Aparecida, your driver will have to wait for you, so they’ll basically be “on the clock” for multiple hours. Even if Uber does eventually operate here, I wouldn’t recommend using them because you could end up stranded with no cell service and no driver to bring you back into town. To go to Aparecida, you can hire a taxi from Cunha to take you there and use Uber to return. Expect to pay about 80 BRL each way.

Where should you stay?

Cunha seems to have a lot of guesthouses (called “pousadas”) out in the countryside, but I’d recommend staying in the town center. I almost always use Airbnb to book long-term rentals, and I found a cozy little studio on the south edge of town for a great price. The best part by far was the balcony, which offered a stunning view of the sunset over a little valley to the west every night.

Which day trip do I recommend most?

Most visitors to Cunha will probably only stay for a couple days, so you may not have time to see everything listed here. If you have to choose just one, I’d say go with O Lavandário. It’s quick and easy, and the views can’t be beat.

Cunha: An Amazing Small Town

Cunha is a great example of why I love small-town travel so much. It’s unlike any other place I’ve been since I started blogging in 2018, but after just one or two days it already started to feel like home.

No matter which day trip you decide to do, you’ll be treated to amazing views as you ride along the country roads. And as you can see from this post, there is an incredible variety of terrains, from forests to fields and valleys to more jagged peaks off in the distance.

If you have any questions about any of these day trip options, leave a comment below! I always love hearing from readers, especially if they were able to use my blog as a resource. Be sure not to miss my other post about Cunha town if you haven’t read it already! Thanks for reading and see you next time!

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This post was published on Aug 15, 2020

Hi, I’m Kevin! I’m a coffee addict from Seattle, and my life revolves around traveling! Caffeinated Excursions is a record of my trips over the past seven years. Since I started blogging, I’ve lived in Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, and the US. I just moved to Australia and plan to be here a full year. Thanks for checking out my blog!

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Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Thu, 06 Aug 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha,
A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Published August 6, 2020

I’m of the opinion that we travelers haven’t fully experienced a country, state, or province until we’ve seen both its urban centers and its rural districts. This is especially true of São Paulo, Brazil: the city itself and the surrounding countryside are two completely separate worlds. If you’re interested in visiting South America’s largest metropolitan area and you plan on staying more than a week, I highly recommend spending some time outside city limits.

Although there are dozens of interesting towns and cities within a three-hour driving radius of São Paulo, Cunha (pronounced “Kun-ya” or “Cuña”) is perhaps my favorite I’ve been to so far. This little village of only 22,000 residents is surrounded by rolling hills on all sides, and its best feature is undoubtedly its jaw-dropping landscape. Another interesting thing about this region is its similarity to the American West, complete with locals wearing cowboy hats and the occasional person going about their business on horseback.

In this post, I’ll feature some of the highlights of Cunha’s town center. Many of the nearby attractions require an afternoon or day trip further into the countryside, so I’ll dedicate another post to those activities, which you can check out here! Otherwise, read on to learn about the town of Cunha’s points of interest!

Magnificent Views

If your idea of a perfect vacation is spending hours a day exploring on foot and taking pictures, then Cunha is the destination for you! As you can probably tell already, the town is very hilly, so keep that in mind. However, the valleys make for some amazing panoramic views and many vantage points offer miles of visibility.

Mountains

One of the main reasons Cunha is so beautiful is because it’s surrounded by hills on all sides. There is an incredible variety in the topography, with some sections being covered by forests and others with wide open fields. Since logging appears to be a major industry here, I can’t claim that the landscapes are completely “natural,” but they are still breathtaking regardless.

Architecture

Although the mountains surrounding Cunha are incredible, the other piece of the puzzle is the town’s traditional architecture. Specifically, the houses have an almost-European style to them, and many of them have beautiful pastel colors and iconic red tile rooftops. From a distance, a cluster of houses on a hillside come together to form a burst of yellows, blues, pinks, and reds that stand out against the duller browns and greens of the terrain.

Where to see the best views

In my opinion, some of the best views can be seen from this little section of Road 459 (on the southern end of town looking north), from the northern end of Rua Alcides Barbeta that turns into Rua Sete, and from Alameda Francisco da Cunha Menezes (a view of the ranches directly to the north and northeast of town). However, this is definitely not an exhaustive list!

Old VW Beetles

A blog post about Cunha wouldn’t be complete without a mention of arguably the city’s most unique cultural icon: old-school Volkswagen beetles! According to one article, there are about 1,300 VW vehicles in the city (one for every 17 residents).

You can’t really walk for more than a few minutes without crossing paths with one, and in the vast majority of cases, they look pretty old (on the order of decades). The article mentioned above claims that there is no verifiable reason this particular car is so popular here, but it suggests that perhaps the car’s durability makes it ideal for the steep inclines in the city as well as the dirt roads surrounding the town.

You’ll also notice that Cunha has dozens if not hundreds of small auto repair shops. Given how old all the cars seem to be here, it makes sense that they would all need constant maintenance!

Churches

Cunha has three prominent churches: the Igreja do Rosário e São Benedito, the Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, and the Igreja Metodista Central em Cunha. They are all pretty standard as far as Brazilian churches go. Nonetheless, I always like checking out churches when I’m traveling, especially in small towns.

Igreja do Rosário e São Benedito

Luckily, all three churches in town are within just a ten or fifteen minute walk of each other. This one, located furthest north, is clearly the oldest. I would’ve loved to see its interior, but it was never open to visitors whenever I walked by.

Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição

This church located in the main town square serves as a center point for Cunha. It is usually open for visitors during the day, but unfortunately the altar had a bunch of scaffolding on it, so my pictures of the inside aren’t great.

Also known as the “Mother Church,” this memorable yellow, blue, and white structure is surrounded by restaurants, cafes, and shops on all sides. It’s basically impossible to miss.

Igreja Metodista Central em Cunha

Only a short walk south of the main town square, this church doesn’t appear to be nearly as old as the two mentioned above, but I still enjoy its simple yet elegant architecture.

The Town Market

While you’re in the center of town, be sure to visit the Mercado Municipal de Cunha. They offer fresh produce, honey, cachaça (a Brazilian spirit used to make caipirinhas), souvenirs, and fresh fish. I’m willing to bet that you won’t leave empty-handed even if you only go in to browse!

Restaurants

Restaurants in Cunha offer excellent home-style traditional Brazilian fare. It is hard to go wrong, but here are some of the places I liked most.

Restaurante Casarão

This was one of my favorite places because it offered Brazilian dishes like rice and beans, roast chicken, and other treats. Casarão also has a huge salad bar, so I would always go whenever I felt like I needed a big serving of veggies.

Restaurante Dona Dita

This restaurant offered a combo lunch for a great price of only 15 BRL (approx. 3 USD as of August 2020). Dona Dita is both delicious and budget-friendly.

Restaurante Jeca Grill

At a price of only 12 BRL for a full plate of food, Jeca Grill offers even more bang for your buck than Dona Dita. If you choose to dine in, there is a semi-outdoor seating area in the back that was well-ventilated and well-lit.

Quintal da Cau

Unlike the three restaurants mentioned above, Quintal da Cau is a few blocks away from the main square. It also offers a lunch combo for a similar price (15 BRL), and the chicken I got there was so tender and juicy! This eatery is located at the bottom of a hill, but the delicious food and good service are worth the short leg workout.

Veríssima Bistrô

On the southern edge of town is Veríssima, which has a very classy ambiance and a semi-outdoor dining room. I decided to try a passion fruit cocktail, appetizer of locally-grown mushrooms, and a portafoglio de mignon with brie cheese, which was two thinly sliced pieces of beef with cheese inside, lightly fried. Everything was excellent; if you want to splurge a bit (approx. 25 USD per person), this is the place to go.

Bar Reale

This bar is associated with a brewery in town of the same name. Housed in the same location as another restaurant called Il Pumo, Bar Reale has a unique vibe as well as a very friendly owner. It’s a bit pricey, but definitely one of the higher-end places near the main square.

Bethlehem Cozinha Artesanal

I have to admit, I was intrigued by this restaurant’s unique name (Bethlehem Artisanal Kitchen). Located on the western edge of town, Bethlehem is also a bit of a splurge (approx. 20 to 25 USD per person), but everything I ordered was excellent. I decided to try a cold vegetable soup appetizer that was very refreshing followed by a filet mignon smothered in house sauce served with risotto de alho poró. The sauce had just a hint of sweetness to it that balanced all the flavors of this rich meal perfectly.

The other interesting thing about Bethlehem Artisanal Kitchen is its beautiful main dining room overlooking Cunha in the valley to the east. The sky roof, which was built to accommodate a tree growing through it, makes this dining space especially bright and memorable.

Local foods

Even if perishable items might not make the best gifts to bring back home, don’t let that stop you from trying some for yourself! The farmer’s market mentioned above is a great place to browse, but many stores offer local products like honey, pickled peppers, spices, coffee, and local beer and spirits. If nothing else, they’re great to just have at home as snack options!

Final notes on restaurants

Cunha doesn’t really have anything resembling international cuisine. Restaurant hours also seem to be a bit scattershot, so I’d recommend being flexible and checking beforehand if there’s a place you really want to try. Most diners (and stores) are closed on Sundays; I’d recommend picking up groceries on Saturday afternoon just to be safe. Finally, Cunha is not home to any fast food chains (as far as I can tell). Embrace it and support one of the many small businesses here instead!

Gift Ideas

Cunha is home to a number of different industries, including car maintenance (to keep all those old VWs on the road, I assume), lumber, farming, and ranching.

However, the industry that translates most readily into gifts and souvenirs is pottery. A lot of ceramic artists are based in Cunha, and many of them produce small pieces that make great gifts. I highly recommend checking out Casa do Artesão (Craftsman House), a huge gift shop that sells dozens of artists’ work for good prices.

There also appear to be a lot of smaller boutique shops along Rua Alcides Barbeta on the western edge of town.

Day Trips

As mentioned at the beginning of this post, a lot of the attractions near Cunha are far enough away that you’re going to need to hire a taxi to get to them. During my time here, I visited a couple of waterfalls, a lavender farm, and a nearby city, which you can read about here. Don’t forget about these options when planning a trip!

So... Is There Anything to Actually Do in Cunha?

If you’ve read this far and are thinking to yourself that Cunha doesn’t seem to have very much to do, I’d actually agree. This quiet yet picturesque village is not probably not the place to go if you’re looking for a very exhilarating vacation. With that said, Cunha is very atmospheric, and in my opinion, the landscapes more than make up for any lack of activities to do.

Since I’ve accidentally stumbled into the life of a digital nomad this year thanks in part to COVID-19, I’ll mention that Cunha is the perfect place for an extended stay for travelers working remotely. My Airbnb host warned that the WiFi here can be spotty, but I had a good connection almost the entire time I was there (for about a month). Just to be safe, I can always use a mobile hotspot in a pinch (and cell service is good where I stayed, although it cuts out completely once you leave town).

Cunha is basically halfway between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro: about three or four hours to both cities by car. Although it’s not the closest or most convenient town to either major city, the views here are definitely worth the drive. Would you dedicate three days of a two-week trip to Brazil to check it out? Have you ever been to Cunha? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading, stay safe and healthy, and have a great day, guys!

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This post was published on Aug 6, 2020

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The Comprehensive Guide To Aparecida, São Paulo, Brazil

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Mon, 27 Jul 2020 03:00:00 +0000

The Comprehensive Guide To Aparecida, São Paulo, Brazil

Published July 27, 2020

Have you ever visited a city or town where religious traditions are a major part of the local identity and culture? The question might evoke thoughts of historic cities in the Middle East, monasteries in Southeast Asia, or even a place like Salt Lake City in Utah. But in this post, I’ll be introducing you to an incredible religious town that you won’t want to miss on your next visit to Brazil: Aparecida in the state of São Paulo!

Aparecida’s focal point is the Santuário Nacional de Nossa Senhora Aparecida (Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Aparecida). This church is not only a gorgeous and stunning piece of modern architecture, but it also holds the title of second largest church in the world.

The church is certainly worth spending a full afternoon exploring, and I’ve written another blog post (click or tap here) all about it. In this post, I’ll be focusing on some of the other interesting things to see and do in Aparecida.

The Largest Church in the Western Hemisphere

Aparecida is a small town, so the main attraction is undoubtedly the Santuário Nacional. Its brick exterior may not look very flashy, but the inside is a burst of color with an unexpectedly modern design.

If you want to see what I’m talking about, use the link below to open up that blog post!

The Town's Vibe

After you’ve seen the Basilica, you’ll definitely want to check out the rest of Aparecida on foot. There are only a handful of main streets, so it won’t take long to figure out that layout of town. The main plaza (located here) is on the top of a hill, so there are a lot of streets nearby that offer good views of the surrounding mountains.

You also won’t want to miss the Passarela da Fé, a pedestrian overpass that connects the cathedral to the main street in town (Rua Monte Carmelo). It offers an especially nice panoramic view of the mountains to the northwest. I took the two images below while walking on the Passarela.

Aparecida probably counts as a hidden gem in terms of international travel, but it’s understandably a favorite destination among locals. Therefore, the town has its fair share of tourist infrastructure, including a large number of hotels and souvenir shops along the main strip. However, it’s not overly commercialized and still has a distinct small-town vibe.

Other Points of Interest

This section will feature some other things to visit in Aparecida, including two smaller churches, a hike if you’re feeling adventurous, a cable car ride, and an observatory. Unfortunately, the final two attractions were closed during my visit because of COVID-19.

Two Smaller Churches

In addition to the main Basilica, Aparecida also has two other churches worth checking out. Both are located in the town center and easy to walk to.

Igreja de São Benedito

This church is located on the north corner of town in front of the Praça Dr. Benedito Mereilles. It’s relatively small, but the white and blue color scheme reminds me a bit of Greece and Santorini.

Basílica Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição Aparecida (Basílica Velha)

This is actually the original Basilica of Our Lady of Aparecida. It was built to commemorate a statue of the Virgin Mary which was, according to legend, fished out of the nearby Paraíba River by some fishermen in the early 1700s. This statue attracted religious visitors for decades to come, and this yellow cathedral was built as a place where they could see it. (The newer Basilica was built between 1955 and 1980, and the statue is currently on display there.)

This church may not look like much compared to its newer rendition that sits on the world records list, but the inside is nonetheless stunning and boasts a beautiful colonial style which is totally different from the interior of the Santuário Nacional. Just like the blue and white Igreja de São Benedito, the Basílica Velha has a cohesive color scheme both inside and out.

An Adventurous Hike

Over the years, the distinctive statue of the Virgin Mary mentioned above became a cultural icon of Aparecida. You will likely see it dozens or hundreds of times in just a few days: on signs, lampposts, bumper stickers, restaurant menus, advertisements, storefronts, and more. Perhaps the most prevalent place you’ll notice the statue is on the top of a hill overlooking the town.

When I saw it, I knew I wanted to try and hike up to it, but figuring out how to do it was a little bit of an adventure. If you use Google Maps, the app will likely direct you to use this trail here. I initially tried that, but when I reached the trail head (shown below), it just looked a little too overgrown and isolated to go that way by myself.

I turned back and decided to try my luck by going to the end of this street, where some local residents directed me towards the beginning of a much shorter dirt path that also ended at the statue (which is not shown on Google Maps default view as of July 2020). This still felt a tiny bit sketch, but it’s definitely the way I’d recommend going. I don’t think that this little hike would be ‘dangerous’ per se either way, but I’d still recommend keeping your wits about you especially if you’re alone. If you can go as a group, I’d suggest that.

From the top, you’ll be able to see the Santa Nossa Senhora Aparecida up close. She overlooks a stunning panoramic view of the town below, including of the Basilica. Compare its size to the hotels around while you’re here; from the ground, it can be hard to comprehend just how big this structure really is!

The Cable Car (Bontur Bondinhos Aéreos)

The last major attraction in Aparecida is the cable car, which connects the Santuário Nacional terminal to Morro do Cruzeiro, a hill with a cross-shaped observation tower directly east of the town. Unfortunately, both the observatory and the cable car were closed when I visited Aparecida because of COVID-19. I’m sure both attractions offer some stunning views of the town. If you visit Aparecida and have the time to ride the cable car, leave a comment below and let me know how it is!

A Very Brief Food Section

Since I visited Aparecida during July of 2020, certain things in town were closed due to the pandemic. This included most restaurants, and the few that were open only offered takeout and delivery. Luckily, my Airbnb host arranged a daily lunch provided by Cavs Restaurante e Doceria, which was always pretty good. They also changed their menu every day, so I got a good variety of dishes. And best of all, each meal was only 14 BRL so it was very economical!

For dinner, I would usually cook at home, but if I was feeling lazy or running out of food, I would run over to Pizzaria Aldebarã. They also had pretty good prices and I liked that they made thin-crust pizza; normally pizza in Brazil is thick crust.

Where I Stayed

Airbnb is usually my go-to for long-term rental (I stayed for three weeks). In Aparecida, I really lucked out with a two-bedroom full-kitchen place all to myself for frankly phenomenal price. Even the decor inside matched the overall theme of the town!

Unique Gifts From Aparecida

Last but not least: souvenirs! Most towns in Brazil offer pretty standard souvenirs: postcards, tee shirts, magnets. In contrast, every gift shop in Aparecida sells mini figurines of Our Lady of Aparecida. These make some unique gifts, so I’d recommend doing some shopping here.

Quality and price vary greatly, and it seemed like in general you get what you pay for. You can also buy this iconic image in almost any form imaginable: keychains, magnets, pins, larger statues, small glass paperweights, and the list goes on and on. The Basilica has a gift shop, but prices there are definitely inflated. You’ll find much better deals in the little family-owned gift shops all over town.

Closing Tips & Thoughts

Aparecida may not have the scale or grandeur of São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, but if you’re traveling between the two largest cities in Brazil and need a place to stop for a few days along the way, Aparecida is a great option. You’ll get to see a little corner of this massive country that few foreigners even know exist, and it’s surprisingly accessible from both cities (a 170 km drive from SP and a 260 km drive from RJ).

There’s enough to see and do in Aparecida that I’d recommend staying two or three nights. A day trip from São Paulo is possible, but you’ll probably only have enough time to see the Basilica and do a quick walk-through of the town unless you arrive really early in the morning.

Since I stayed for three weeks, I can confirm that it’s a fine enough place for digital nomads to settle down for a bit longer, but these attractions would probably stretch out to about a week even with the most leisurely pace. I spent a fair amount of my time there relaxing and working, so this was no issue for me.

Have I convinced you to at least consider Aparecida for your upcoming trip to Brazil? Let me know in the comments below! It really is a quaint little town that I highly recommend!

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This post was published on July 27, 2020

Bangkok (Sept)
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The post The Comprehensive Guide To Aparecida, São Paulo, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

How To Visit The World’s Second Largest Church In Aparecida, Brazil

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 25 Jul 2020 03:00:00 +0000

How To Visit The World’s Second Largest Church In Aparecida, Brazil

Published July 25, 2020

Most travelers probably know that the world’s largest church is St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, but did you know that the second largest isn’t even in Europe at all? On the contrary, it can be found in a tiny town about 170 km northeast of São Paulo, Brazil! Santuário Nacional de Nossa Senhora Aparecida (Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Aparecida) is a truly awe-inspiring structure not only for its size (it can seat 30,000 people), but also for its uniquely modern architecture.

In fact, this gargantuan cathedral isn’t hundreds of years old. It was actually completed in 1980, and the architects clearly wanted to combine traditional building elements with more innovative artwork and interior designs.

This post will feature a bit of background information, followed by a review of the interior of the Santuário Nacional as well as a number of attractions around it. Scroll down further to see some additional tips. For information about other things to do in the town of Aparecida, check out this separate post! Despite being small, Aparecida is a unique town worth visiting for a few days if you can.

A Bit of History

So why might this small town that has almost no name recognition outside of Brazil be home to a church big enough to be on the world record list? It all dates back to a small statue of the Virgin Mary that was reportedly found by fishermen hundreds of years ago. In fact, the name of the town (Aparecida) literally means “Appeared,” referring to the statue being discovered.

That particular statue, with its distinctive regal shawl, gold crown, and dark skin is a cultural icon of the town and can be seen everywhere. Seriously, if you spend just two days in Aparecida, you’ll probably see Our Lady of Aparecida hundreds of times, on business advertisements, on bumper stickers, in gift shops, lit up on street lamps, etc. The town of Aparecida, the Basilica inspired by what many would say is a divine discovery, and the religious history of the region combine to form a fascinating and unique experience unlike anywhere else I’ve been before.

The Interior of the Cathedral

The church’s basic design consists of a huge central altar area with four different seating sections extending perpendicularly from it. This more or less forms a square cross floor plan, although additional smaller enclaves are nestled between each main section for more people to sit in. The center of the sanctuary and the massive dome is undoubtedly my favorite part of the church.

As you can see, this church is not pretending to be centuries old. Everything about it, from the bright colors and modern artwork to its glossy tiles suggests that the Basilica is a modern wonder of architecture. The extensive use of brick on both its interior and exterior helps to emphasize this as well while also contributing to its unique blue and orange color scheme.

Patterns and Tiles

Be sure to take a couple moments to appreciate the beautiful tiles that can be found throughout the sanctuary. Much of the artwork here is inspired by nature: bird, plant, star, sun, wave, and even frog motifs adorn the towering walls of the church. This beautifully balanced combination of natural elements and geometric patterns might be a reference to the Garden of Eden.

The Seating Areas

Although the four areas where the congregation would sit are made mostly of brick, all of them boast a giant arched stained glass window that changes its shade of blue depending on where the sun is in the sky. That’s another amazing thing about the Basilica: a striking amount of natural light illuminates the sanctuary at all times of day. Sunlight passing through these windows bathes entire portions of the church in a sapphire glow, giving the whole place a very relaxing vibe.

Smaller Chapels

The cathedral’s interior also has a couple of smaller, sequestered areas that may or may not be open depending on which day you visit.

Devotional Area

I visited the Santuário Nacional de Nossa Senhora Aparecida about half a dozen times during my stay in Aparecida, and this little area located on the church’s northeast corner wasn’t open every time I went. When I saw it for the first time, I loved the low lighting and all the candles along the wall. Be sure to check it out if you can!

Things to See Around The Church

At this point, you’ve only seen half of what the Santuário Nacional has to offer. Its massive grounds have a number of other interesting attractions you won’t want to miss!

The actual cathedral building

As you can probably already tell, the exterior of the church is also a sight to behold. You could easily spend half an hour walking around it and admiring it from all angles. Although its exterior is much more traditional from an architectural perspective than the art and decor inside, the sheer size and scale of the structure is one reason you’ll want to see it from as many vantage points as possible.

The bell tower

Unlike most churches, the Basilica’s bells aren’t hidden in the upper reaches of any steeple or dome. Instead, the standalone bell tower is located on the very corner of the church lot closest to town.

The pedestrian bridge into town
(Passarela da Fé)

A long elevated pathway connects the Santuário Nacional to the town center. This is not the main entrance to the Basilica, but it is one quick and easy option if your hotel or accommodation is located near the entrance in town. The point where the path connects to the church can be found right here.

Although this passarela is probably the quickest way to walk from the cathedral into town or vice versa, I don’t think it’s open at night. However, the town of Aparecida is pretty easy to navigate because it’s so compact.

This walkway also offers pretty incredible views of the town, as well as the surrounding mountains and countryside.

Morro do Presépio

A picturesque little garden on a hill complete with a collection of statues, a waterfall, and a pond can be found behind the Santuário Nacional. This is also a great place to take photos of the church, especially during the early evening when softer natural light helps illuminate the church’s western-facing side.

The gift shop

The cathedral also has a gift shop, and although it’s worth browsing, there are dozens of other souvenir shops in town that will probably offer better deals. I talk a bit about gifts in my post about Aparecida, which you can read here.

The clock tower and museum

Unfortunately the observatory at the top of the church’s massive clock tower was closed due to COVID-19, but I’d love to come back someday post-pandemic and see what can only be a stunning perspective of the church’s dome and rooftop.

Bontur Bondinhos Aéreos

Last but not least, Aparecida is home to a cable car. This was also closed due to the pandemic, but if it’s open during your visit, check it out and let me know how the views are from it!

This cable car connects the Basilica to Morro do Cruzeiro, a hill overlooking the town which is home to another observatory shown in the picture below.

Tips & FAQs

There is no entrance fee.

I was never charged to enter the cathedral or the grounds. Unless there’s a special event or something else going on, the Santuário Nacional should be free to visit. However, I would expect to pay a fee to ride the cable car.

How to Arrive (on Foot)

The main pedestrian entrance is located here, although there are other ways to get in and out (including the passarela mentioned above). This main entrance is also pretty close to the town center, which is northeast of the Santuário Nacional.

Why is it so empty in these pictures?

Since I spent time in Aparecida during the COVID-19 pandemic (July 2020), I was one of only a handful of people to be on church grounds whenever I visited. I made a one-day return trip from a neighboring town in August 2020, and it looked like things had already opened up quite a bit more even one month later. I’ve been told that under normal circumstances, the cathedral is a very popular and often crowded attraction.

Where to Stay

As a long-term traveler, Airbnb is my go-to, especially since they almost always offer weekly and monthly discounts. I found a beautiful Airbnb for a great price shown below.

Feeling Intrigued?

Learn about what else the town of Aparecida has to offer!

The Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Aparecida is reason enough to visit this little town, but Aparecida has more to offer than its religious centerpiece. To learn a bit more about the town and its other attractions, check out my other blog post! Among other things, Aparecida offers some beautiful scenic views as well as a uniquely ‘country’ vibe.

Now that you know about the second largest church in the world, is it going on your post-pandemic bucket list? If you love architecture, religious history, and art, I can’t recommend it enough. What do you think of the Santuário Nacional de Nossa Senhora Aparecida? Leave a comment below and let me know! Stay caffeinated, friends and travelers!

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This post was published on July 25, 2020

Bangkok (Sept)
Istanbul (Sept)

The post How To Visit The World’s Second Largest Church In Aparecida, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

Restaurants You Need To Try In Ubatuba, Brazil

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 11 Jul 2020 03:00:56 +0000

Restaurants You Need To Try In Ubatuba, Brazil

Published July 11, 2020

One of the surprising things about the beautiful beach town of Ubatuba is its impressive selection of restaurants. The vast majority of dining options in the city are family-owned, so there are countless unique dining experiences to choose from! This post will feature some of my favorites. It’s divided into four main sections: beach kiosks, sit-down restaurants, fancier options, and pizza places.

Disclaimer: I spent the month of June 2020 in Ubatuba, which means I was there right as the city was partially reopening during the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s worth noting that many restaurants remained closed during that time, so this post will feature the ones that were open. Part of my goal in writing this post is to help promote these businesses, so if you find this post helpful be sure to share it!

Disclaimer For My Food Guides When patronizing restaurants, bars, and cafes for my food guide blog posts, I always pay full price. I never request discounts or free menu items in exchange for being featured here. As such, all opinions are completely my own!

Beach Kiosks

The most common and iconic type of restaurant in Ubatuba is the beach kiosk (or in Portuguese, “quiosque”). They typically serve a complete menu of alcoholic beverages and a small or medium-sized menu of food, often specializing in fish and other basic meals like chicken or beef with rice and beans.

Quiosque Aloha

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 475, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/alohaubatuba.quiosque
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ivanserranoskamarakas/

My favorite kiosk was Aloha, but I have to admit that this might have been influenced by the fact that my Airbnb was only a couple minutes away. They made an excellent prato executivo (set lunch) with a choice of beef, chicken, fish, or sausage served with rice, beans, fries or potatoes, and a salad.

Quiosque Aloha is pictured below, but most of these beachside kiosks look similar. The three main beaches in Ubatuba are home to dozens of kiosks like this, and during the month of June, it looked like about half of them were open. In addition to COVID-19 this year, June is also the low season for beaches in Brazil (being the middle of winter), so that could’ve also contributed to so few of them being open.

Kiosks such as Aloha are also the perfect place to pick up a cold beer or a caipirinha, a traditional Brazilian cocktail.

Girassol

Address: Av. Gov. Abreu Sodré, 685 – Perequê-Acu, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/quiosquegirassol/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/quiosquegirassol92/

This is another noteworthy kiosk with great food and good service. Located on the city’s northern Perequê-Açu Beach, Girassol offered unique cocktails as well as delicious meals. The fajitas served with sliced baguette pictured below were excellent!

Girassol was good enough to go back to a second time. If I had stayed a little closer to Perequê-Açu, I probably would’ve eaten there once every few days. Their fried fish plate with dipping sauces and peppers was another meal to remember.

Mar Aberto

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 650 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000

Mar Aberto (Open Sea) is located just a short walk south of Aloha. I only went once but the fried shrimp I got there were good.

Quiosque Mirante

Address: click or tap here for Google Maps link
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Beach/Quiosque-Mirante-1792947057685109/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/quiosquemirante/

This kiosk is located on a small cliff overlooking two major beaches in Ubatuba: Praia Grande and Praia das Toninhas. Since it’s not really near any other restaurants or shops, I didn’t expect the food to be anything special when I stopped there for lunch one day, but the fish platter I ordered ended up being both delicious and beautifully plated!

If you’re exploring the beaches further south, this is the perfect place to grab lunch or a small refreshment.

Others

There are probably at least 50 oceanfront kiosks spread throughout Ubatuba, and I really hope that the vast majority of them are able to have a regular high season again by the end of 2020 and the beginning of 2021. If you find another beach bar you really liked that isn’t mentioned here, leave a comment below and tell me about it!

Sit-Down Restaurants

In general, the restaurants in Ubatuba also serve a variety of seafood as well as Brazilian classics. While I did find sushi and Mexican food, I’ll admit that there isn’t a huge international dining scene here. I would’ve loved to see a Thai or Vietnamese restaurant, but these were hard to come by even in São Paulo.

O Rei do Camarão

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 38 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Website: http://restaurantereidocamarao.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/orei.docamarao/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/oreidocamaraoubatuba/

textThis restaurant (King of Shrimp) is aptly named. Their entire menu features seafood with a focus on shrimp. I tried two of their pastas and a shrimp burger, and everything there was delicious.

Padaria Integrale

Address: R. Dr. Esteves da Silva, 360 – Centro, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Website: https://padariaintegrale.com/en/home-en/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/padariaintegraleubatuba
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/padariaintegrale/

Padaria means ‘bakery,’ but this particular bakery had an open-air dining space, so I tried it for lunch one day. The fish, quinoa, and salad I got was probably the healthiest meal I’ve had in recent memory.

As you can see below, they had about half of their tables blocked off to facilitate social distancing. In addition to good food, they also made an excellent mocha!

Restaurante Casa do Marmitex

Address: R. Dr. Esteves da Silva, 322 – Centro, Ubatuba – SP, 11660-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/cdm.casadomarmitex

This restaurant may look simple from the outside, but it ended up being one of my favorites in town! Marmitex is a style of food that basically means a complete set meal, usually for a good price.

This restaurant offers a couple of dishes every day, but also has a rotating menu. The second time I went was feijoada day, so I couldn’t turn that down! It ended up being amazing, especially because it had been so long since I had it last (a couple of months at least).

MaH Restaurante e Pizzaria

Address: Rua Guarani, 335 – Centro, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Website: https://app.menudino.com/mahrestaurante
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mah.restaurante/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mah.restaurante/

Based on their menu and promotional materials, MaH (not really sure how you pronounce that, to be perfectly honest) looked like it offered very fancy food pre-COVID. I stopped in for lunch twice and got their relatively simple yet satisfying lunch combos both times, which only cost a couple dollars.

Quintal da Villa

Address: Rua Guarani, 5 – e 6 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/QuintaldaVillaUbatuba/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/quintaldavilla/

This restaurant is a short walk down the street from MaH. The first time I went, I got a platter of fish and rice for dinner, which I found to be good but not necessarily amazing. When I went back a few weeks later, I got their steak lunch set, which was excellent. At most restaurants in town, lunches in Ubatuba will cost around 20 BRL (approx. 4 to 5 USD as of June 2020).

Taco Surf

Address: Rua Guarani, 746 – Barra da Lagoa, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Bar/TacoSurf-Bar-e-Cozinha-Mexicana-163009697147781/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/taco.surf/

It’s been months since I’ve last had Mexican food (and the few times I had it in São Paulo, it was never actually very good). That’s why I was so excited to try Taco Surf! This restaurant next to a small skate park has some Baja and maybe Tex-Mex vibes, and the inside has nods to both skating as well as the main sport of Ubatuba: surfing.

You guys don’t know how happy I was to finally get salsa, guacamole, sour cream, and yellow rice! These ingredients don’t really exist in Brazilian cuisine at all (at least not in São Paulo). I have to admit in all honesty that the food wasn’t 100% authentic, but after living in Mexico City in 2018, my expectations of Mexican food abroad tend to be a little bit too high.

Nonetheless, the food and service was very good here, and this will have to hold me over until I make it to Rio de Janeiro. I highly recommend it if you’re in Ubatuba and craving a burrito.

Okone Sushi

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 752 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SushiOkoneUbatuba/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/okonesushioficial/

Okone Sushi only offered takeout, but will hopefully be open for dine-in soon again. I decided to go with the special combo they had. I’m not sure if that was seasonal or temporary, but it basically included everything pictured below.

This is the first time I’ve had sushi as a full meal in Brazil, and I have to admit that it definitely had a little bit of a different overall flavor, although I can’t exactly pinpoint what it was. I also had a food coma after this meal, but I think that’s because it was meant for two people!

Luxurious Options

Jundu Restaurante Lounge Bar

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 810 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Website: https://www.junduubatuba.com.br/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jundurestauranteloungebar/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jundu_restaurante/

Both the price and the vibe of this restaurant suggest that it caters to tourists, but there’s nothing wrong with that! Jundu offers a similar style of food to many of the other restaurants in town, but it does have a slightly less casual vibe.

Restaurante Raízes

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 1281 – Sala 1 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Website: https://www.raizesubatuba.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/restauranteraizes/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/restaurante.raizes/

This massive restaurant with multiple floors of dining is the other one that stood out to me as catering mainly to tourists. Their huge dining room allowed for very generous social distancing between tables.

I tried their filet de dourado em crosta de coco, a fried fish with coconut flakes and a side of black rice and mandioquinha purée, a type of root vegetable native to South America.

Restaurante Terra Papagalli

Address: R. Xavantes, 537 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Papagali/206576329367564

This was probably my favorite place I splurged in Ubatuba. It has a very refined yet warm and welcoming vibe, and they have a nice little patio area facing the ocean.

The lighting isn’t great in the picture below, but I really liked the octopus pasta I decided to try for dinner. The most memorable part of the experience though was the fact that they offered a free dessert! I’m not sure if that’s because there was only one other family dining, and maybe the chefs were bored, but I wasn’t about to turn that down! Perhaps they also had a sixth sense that they would be featured in a blog post!

It ended up being a serving of raspberries and vanilla ice cream served in a hot sauce that reminded me a lot of German gluhwein. It felt very Christmas-y today, and despite being June, it was the perfect thing for a rainy evening!

Pizza Places

For whatever reason, Ubatuba has a ton of pizza restaurants. I honestly think at least 40% to 50% of restaurants in town serve pizza as one of their specialties. It makes me wonder if pizza is a food that Brazilians enjoy on holiday more than as an everyday meal. Although I only mention two below, there are many others to choose from.

Brothers Pizzaria

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 58 – Barra da Lagoa, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Website: https://brothers-pizzaria.negocio.site/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/brotherspizzaubatuba/

This pizzeria with a large dining room was noteworthy because they allow you to get four different flavors on one pie, and they have a massive menu to choose from. I’ll say that in general, pizza in Brazil is lighter on the tomato sauce and heavier on the cheese. You can see this in the picture below. It also tends to have thick crust, so in many ways it’s closer to American-style than authentic Italian.

Restaurante Senzala

Address: Av. Leovigildo Dias Vieira, 1030 – Itaguá, Ubatuba – SP, 11680-000
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/restaurante.senzala/

This restaurant offered a standard menu with a full range of dishes, but I had to go with their seafood pizza when I saw it. Unlike most pizza restaurants in Brazil, Senzala actually did have a much more Italian (i.e. thin crust) pizza, which was refreshing.

Ubatuba: More Than Just Beaches

Ubatuba is such a great town because despite its jaw-dropping beaches, it isn’t overly commercialized. The vast majority of restaurants here really are small businesses, so any visitor who dines out is genuinely supporting the local economy!

As I said before, I really hope that all of the businesses mentioned here can make it through this current low season and that Ubatuba will be able to safely host visitors during the upcoming summer season that will start at the end of the year. If you want to help these businesses out, share this article or engage with some of them on their social media platforms!

Have you been to Ubatuba before? Are you interested in going once this pandemic is over? Let me know in the comments below! And if you’re interested in learning about the city’s stunning coastline of world-class beaches or what it was like to be in Ubatuba during its initial reopening, click the respective link. Thanks for reading, guys! Have a great week!

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This post was published on July 11, 2020

Bangkok (Sept)
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The post Restaurants You Need To Try In Ubatuba, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

I’m An American In Brazil. This Is What Reopening Has Looked Like So Far.

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Fri, 19 Jun 2020 03:00:00 +0000

I’m An American In Brazil. This Is What Reopening Has Looked Like So Far.

Published June 19, 2020

Welcome to my travel blog, Caffeinated Excursions! This is a follow-up to my previous post that documented my experience social distancing in the city of Santos during the month of May. At the beginning of June I relocated to the seaside town of Ubatuba, where I’ve continued to social distance and enjoy the amazing beaches. If you’re curious about what a modest and partial reopening has looked like in this little corner of Brazil, grab a cup of coffee and read on!

How I Got Here

I moved from Santos to Ubatuba at the beginning of June. Both cities are located along the Atlantic coast of the State of São Paulo. If you’ve been following my blog for a while, then you know that I came to Brazil intending to teach English for about six months, but that plan was obviously disrupted by the pandemic. I’ve since started tutoring English online. Although I prefer teaching in person, it’s been a great way to stay safely employed.

I’m moving very slowly eastward along the coast in hopes of making it to Rio de Janeiro by August. That’s because I purchased a very cheap airline ticket from Rio to Lisbon for the middle of August. I’m aware that Europe may not be open to visitors by that point. If I’m not allowed to board, I’ll have to reassess and decide what to do: stay in Brazil longer, travel to another country that is open, or go back to the US.

The Virus Situation

Anyone who’s been following international news knows the COVID-19 situation in Brazil is… not good. In addition to a lack of testing, a lack of leadership from the federal government, and a healthcare system that can’t handle the outbreak, this month was marked by a scandal involving the government attempting to remove data from its own public database. The courts have gotten involved, and individual Brazilian states have continued to collect data, which means this cover-up effort has basically been unsuccessful. Nonetheless, the situation is still worrying for many who value transparency and accountability through this challenging time.

In spite of all of this, I really do doubt that the case numbers will ever surpass the United States. In my opinion, American media has focused heavily on Brazil, where the virus is taking an especially devastating toll on poor and indigenous communities, in part to draw attention away from the recent spikes at home. Nonetheless, the US has well over double the number of cases as Brazil despite having just 1.5 times the population. I’m not saying this to minimize the severe situation in either country, but I do think presumptuous American notions of Brazil being a lawless, almost war-torn region are affecting the overall perception of the situation here. I personally think the two countries are much more similar than different in terms of their handling of COVID-19 as of June 2020.

My Daily Routine

My daily routine is pretty similar to what it’s been the past few months. I usually work in the mornings, get lunch, go for a walk as long as the weather is good, come back for dinner, and then sometimes work in the evenings. As I’m sure is the case with many people, weekdays and weekends for me have really blurred together, especially since I do some of my teaching on the weekends.

My Amazing Airbnb

One of my favorite parts of my stay here in Ubatuba has been the great deal I found on Airbnb for a month-long rental. For 340 USD, I got this beautiful, massive studio loft for the entire month of June. It even has a kitchen and a private bathroom.

The really nice thing about this loft is that because it’s the entire second floor of a house, I don’t have to share any common space with the hosts who live downstairs. The loft even has its own private entrance, so social distancing has been easy!

Food: A Mix of Cooking and Restaurants

The month of May was the month I learned to cook. While in Santos, I ordered take-out only twice and made literally every other meal at home from scratch. This month, with more eateries open for dine-in and take-out, I’ve tried to do roughly half eating at home and half patronizing restaurants.

One thing that’s made it tougher to eat at home in Ubatuba has been that there aren’t any big grocery stores within walking distance. The one nearest my Airbnb has the basics, but is a fraction of the size of the supermarket I had access to in Santos.

In terms of restaurants, I’ll actually be writing a separate post featuring all of the ones I tried in Ubatuba. It may not be much, but I want to help showcase them for visitors who come back once Brazil goes back to normal.

Mitigation Measures

People have let their guard down (at least a little bit) when it comes to preventative measures. Beaches in Ubatuba are not closed, although they’ve never been crowded. If I go for a walk, I’ll bring a mask with me in case I need to pop into a store or find a restaurant for lunch, but I usually don’t wear it outdoors. It’s been pretty easy to maintain six feet of distance while walking in town or on the beach.

Although mask usage overall is down from last month, they are still required to enter any store. Most restaurants also ask customers to wear a mask while ordering food and paying bills. In most places, half of the dining room tables have been blocked off to increase physical distance between customers, as shown in the picture below.

My Own Thoughts About Reopening

First of all, I’m so glad to be able to support small businesses again! I know that there’s some risk of contracting COVID-19 every time I eat in a restaurant, but the protection measures I mentioned above do put my mind at ease.

A major question in Brazil (as in the US and other countries where the curve has not been flattened) is whether or not it’s really safe for things to reopen. Regardless, I can definitively say that people here have prioritized restarting the economy despite widespread transmission (on a national level). I’ve heard that the Brazilian government did not issue economic assistance, which makes me more sympathetic to business owners and employees who are putting themselves at some level of risk to go to work and earn a living.

The other thing that stands out to me is that the current situation can really only be described as a “new normal.” It’s clear that Ubatuba probably won’t go back to business-as-usual, at least until the end of 2020. Walking around town, I’d say that 50% of shops, restaurants, cafes, and bars are still shuttered. It makes me wonder how many of them have already gone out of business permanently. The stores and restaurants that have reopened are almost always empty; I’ve had many meals where I’m the lone customer in a large dining room.

The pandemic has also resulted in very random business hours. If it’s raining or cloudy, many businesses simply won’t open at all. Some restaurants appear to be open only three or four days out of the week. Sundays are especially quiet; I assume this was the norm even before the pandemic, but it’s even more noticeable now.

Since Ubatuba is a town that relies very heavily on tourism, I worry that many of the businesses here won’t be able to survive until the next high season (which will start around November or December). However, since lockdowns didn’t really start in Brazil until March, I hope that most businesses here had a normal high season in the first few months of 2020 and that this will hold them over until the holiday season starts.

Info About Ubatuba

Ubatuba is known first and foremost as a beautiful beach destination. That’s why I’ve written an entirely different post about some of the nicest beaches within walking distance of the town center! If you’re into surfing, Ubatuba is also a world-famous surfing hot spot that hosts international competitions.

Although it’s not tiny, Ubatuba definitely feels more like a town than a city, and I’ve really enjoyed that. The touristy waterfront is basically divided into two sections that are a short walk away from one another: Centro in the north and Barra da Lagoa to the south. There are also a fair number of restaurants, bars, resorts, and shops along Praia Grande beach.

Centro has everything you’d expect in the center of a small resort town. There are a number of historic buildings, including a beautiful old church (Paróquia Exaltação da Santa Cruz).

Another interesting attraction in Centro is the walking street adjacent to Praça Nóbrega. The paved tiles there have this beautiful tessellated fish pattern as shown below.

Barra da Lagoa is a nice part of town that clearly caters to tourists. For whatever reason, Ubatuba has a ton of pizzerias, and many of them are clustered in this small commercial area.

In terms of safety, I’m glad to report that Ubatuba feels like the safest place I’ve been to since I came to Brazil. Although I’m always aware of the risks of petty crime, I’ve never felt like I’ve had to keep my guard up here. I will say that the neighborhoods further inland (to the west) are probably residential without much to see, so I haven’t made an effort to go explore them and can’t comment on them specifically. Nonetheless, no part of town I’ve been to has given me a ‘bad vibe’ so far.

What's Next

My plan is to move to the small town of Cunha at the beginning of July. Although it’s not on the coast, Cunha looks like an interesting place to set up camp for two weeks. After that, I’m planning on spending the second half of the month in the famous town of Paraty in the state of Rio de Janeiro. If all is well, I’ll then be heading to the city of Rio, where I’ll be for two weeks before my flight to Lisbon leaves in mid-August.

If I’m allowed to go, I do plan to spend the entire fall in Europe. I’m looking at spending a month in Portugal, a month in France, and a month in Italy. However, if the pandemic situation appears to take a turn for the worse, I’ll be ready at any point to stay put in one place for as long as I need to or fly back home to the US.

How have the past few months been for you? Is your community slowly reopening, or are you still under lockdown? Do you have any travel plans for later in the year? Leave a comment and let me know! Stay healthy and stay safe! Thanks for reading!

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This post was published on June 19, 2020

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The Best Beaches In Ubatuba, Brazil

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 13 Jun 2020 17:00:00 +0000

The Ultimate Guide To Beaches In Ubatuba, São Paulo, Brazil

Published June 13, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

Welcome to Caffeinated Excursions, a blog of a traveling coffee addict! My name’s Kevin, and in this post I’ll be sharing some of the best beaches in Ubatuba. This small beach town is one of my favorite destinations in Brazil so far, and I highly recommend visiting if you can! Ubatuba’s stunning beaches and beautiful mountain views make it the perfect place to relax and reconnect with nature!

I’m hoping this post will be a helpful travel resource for years to come, but if you happened to read my previous post or saw that this post was published in June of 2020, then you’ll know that I’ve been riding out the COVID-19 pandemic here in Brazil. I’ve been lucky not to have symptoms but I’ve also been pretty cautious about staying away from other people whenever possible.

I’m excited to finally be writing about something that people from around the world will eventually be able to enjoy again someday (i.e., the beaches here), but the virus has still had an impact on my time here in Ubatuba. If you’d like to read more about my experience social distancing in Brazil, click here. If you’re curious what a partial reopening in Ubatuba has been like, check out my thoughts here! And finally, if you’re curious about some of the best restaurants in Ubatuba, click here to learn about your options!

About This Guide

This post features ten beaches that are all within walking distance of the Ubatuba town center, although the final two on the list are pretty far (about 7 miles). Beaches line the coast to the northeast and southwest on the outskirts of town. If you have access to a car, you could probably explore twenty or more beaches in a single day. This guide is designed for people who love to explore on foot (and is suitable for bikers as well). The beaches are ordered from northernmost to southernmost.

To skip down to any beach on the list, click or tap on the corresponding link below!

Praia do Perequê-Açu
Praia do Cruzeiro
Praia do Itaguá
Prainha do Cais
Praia do Tenório
Praia Vermelha do Centro
Praia Grande
Praia das Toninhas
Praia da Enseada
Praia do Perequê-Mirim

1. Praia do Perequê-Açu

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

This wide open beach on the north side of town is emblematic of everything that makes Ubatuba special: sand that isn’t quite white or black, views of deep-green rocky foothills, and water that’s a medium shade of blue.

Even though it probably looks pretty remote, Praia do Perequê-Açu is a short-ish walk from the town center. That’s another reason I love Ubatuba. It hasn’t been overrun with resorts and hotels, so most of the beaches have a very ‘undiscovered’ vibe.

2. Praia do Cruzeiro

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

This is the beach that’s closest to the center of town (Centro). It’s got a couple of unique offerings, like a boardwalk with a small lighthouse at the end where locals like to fish as well as a small plaza.

While Praia do Cruzeiro is nice enough, I recommend walking further south for much more impressive mountain views from…

3. Praia do Itaguá

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

My studio loft is closest to this beach, and I think I got lucky because of that. It’s probably my favorite because of the gorgeous views of the mountains that always end up looking layered in the sunlight, just like a painting.

For whatever reason, I’ve never seen anyone swimming or playing in the water at this beach. While there are some fishing boat docks further away, the water here doesn’t look polluted. However, the sand doesn’t necessarily look like the kind of sand I’d want to sit or sunbathe on. If you’re wanting to swim, I’d recommend checking out some of the beaches further south.

4. Prainha do Cais

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

If you have the time, I highly recommend spending an afternoon walking down the Estrada do Porto, which can be accessed by heading south along Praia do Itaguá. This small road features some gorgeous tiny beaches as well as a different vantage point of the Baía de Ubatuba.

There are a number of small docks along this road as well, so there are some great photo opportunities to capture fishing boats anchored in the bay.

5. Praia do Tenório

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

This beach is sort of tucked away, but its wide, flat white sand makes it an ideal spot to swim. There are security gates on most of the access points, so I’d imagine that this beach closes after sundown. However, as far as I can tell, it’s still open to the public.

6. Praia Vermelha do Centro

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

Praia Vermelha, which means ‘Red Beach,’ stood out to me as having the most picturesque water. The sand is less tightly packed and the beach slopes down at an angle, so it’s not the easiest place to walk, but it’s definitely still worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Ubatuba is also a major surfing destination, and the waves here looked perfect for advanced surfers. Although I’ve never tried surfing myself, this was a perfect place to get some action shots with my real camera.

Because of how big the waves were here, I’d say to exercise caution swimming here. I didn’t see a lifeguard, but I think the neighboring Praia do Tenório, which is only a short walk away, is a much better alternative, especially if you have kids or just want to get your feet wet, build a sandcastle, etc.

If you take a look at the map of this area, you’ll see that the peninsula east of Praia Vermelha has a trail leading out to “Ponta Grossa,” which I was interested in hiking out to.

However, when I saw that the trail looked like this and would take almost an hour one way, I decided against it. Ubatuba has always felt very safe to me, but I just figured walking alone on a heavily-wooded dirt path out to a remote point might be testing my luck. Whether it might be an opportunistic thief on a motorbike or an angry wild dog, I just didn’t want to be all the way out there in case something bad happened. If I had a rental car or was here with friends, I’d be much more inclined to check it out.

However, if you walk just a few minutes up the hill (to roughly this point), you’ll be treated with an amazing panoramic view of Praia Vermelha from above, as shown in the photo below!

7. Praia Grande

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

Praia Grande means ‘Big Beach,’ and that’s definitely a fitting description. I think the views from most of the other beaches further north are a bit more impressive, but this one is still nice regardless.

8. Praia das Toninhas

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

At the far end of Praia Grande is a small cliff that offers a very nice view of Praia Grande to the north and neighboring Praia das Toninhas to the south.

This area is also home to a small beach bar and restaurant, where I stopped for lunch one day. This is a great place to stock up on water or beverages if you’re in need of hydration.

I was expecting the food here to be so-so, but the fish combo I got ended up being really good! If you find yourself here during lunchtime, I highly recommend it.

To learn about other dining options in Ubatuba, head on over to this separate blog post! Further south of this outdoor cafe is Praia das Toninhas. This beach has a somewhat similar vibe to Praia Grande, although it definitely felt less busy.

9. Praia da Enseada

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

If you’re going to go further south on foot to Praia da Enseada, you’ll have to walk on the side of the main road (Rod. Dr. Manoel Hipólito do Rêgo) for about half an hour. It looks like this.

Praia da Enseada is another big, flat beach, but since it’s a fair distance away from town, it has an even more local feel to it than any of the beaches mentioned above.

Parts of Ubatuba have rural vibes, with unpaved dirt roads and the like. The neighborhoods near this beach are definitely like that.

10. Praia do Perequê-Mirim

Location: Click or tap here for Google Maps link

Last on my list is this small beach which felt almost like a lake to me, since it didn’t really offer a wide view of the open ocean. It was pretty quiet, and I’d say that you don’t need to walk all the way down here unless you’re like me and love walking for the sake of walking.

If you look at the map of the greater Ubatuba region, you’ll see that there are an endless string of beaches along the coast. If you wanted to continue further, the next beach south of Perequê-Mirim appears to be Praia do Lázaro. However, it’s a full hour away on foot and most of the walk would be on the side of the road (which isn’t quite a highway, but definitely has cars, trucks, and motorcycles zooming by). If you want to see a bunch of beaches but don’t want to end up walking fourteen miles in a day like I did when I went down to Perequê-Mirim, you could stop at Praia Grande and still get a good sense of what the beaches in Ubatuba are like!

Notes on Weather

June in the Southern Hemisphere is the beginning of winter, although as you can see from these photos, winter in Brazil looks and feels more like a South Florida winter than, say, a New York winter. Temperatures are usually hot enough to go swimming as long as it’s sunny during the day. In addition to COVID, I’m guessing that June is also the off-season, so most of the beaches have been beautifully empty (which has made it pretty easy to social distance).

There were a couple of cloudy days, and as you might expect, Ubatuba’s beaches are much less impressive if the weather isn’t good. I’d just say if you only spend one or two days in Ubatuba, there’s always the chance that you might be unlucky enough to get less-than-ideal weather.

Up Next for the Blog: Thoughts About Reopening in Brazil

Ubatuba is definitely a resort town, but I really like that it isn’t overly commercialized. Aside from a McDonald’s, Burger King, and a Subway, the town seems to have almost exclusively family-owned restaurants and small businesses. There are no huge resort hotels, and one of the highlights of my trip has been the beautiful Airbnb I found for a great price.

In my next blog post, I’ll be writing about what a partial reopening here in Ubatuba has been like. I think the phrase “new normal” is definitely fitting, especially given the sad fact that Brazil has yet to flatten the curve nationally. In any case, you can check that post out by clicking or tapping here! For visitors in need of dining recommendations, be sure to check out my Ubatuba restaurant list! If you liked this beach guide, use one of the sharing buttons below to post it to your social media network of choice! Thanks for dropping in, and stay caffeinated!

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This post was published on June 13, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

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The post The Best Beaches In Ubatuba, Brazil appeared first on Caffeinated Excursions.

What It’s Been Like Social Distancing In Santos, São Paulo, Brazil

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Sat, 23 May 2020 19:21:32 +0000

What It’s Been Like Social Distancing In Santos, São Paulo, Brazil

Published May 23, 2020

Hi guys! It’s been a while since I’ve written a blog post, but I decided to ease my way back into it. Given the uncertain future of travel in the next year or two, I might pivot to writing a bit more about travel-related thoughts rolling around in my head instead of featuring specific destinations. For example, I’m hoping to publish a list of 20 destinations I plan to see in the 2020s. Keep an eye out for that post coming soon, but in this post I’ll be sharing what social distancing here has been like!

How I Got Here

I came to Brazil in January with hopes to teach ESL for about six months. Non-essential businesses started to close here in mid-March, and so at that time I moved from teaching lessons in person to giving them online. As a teacher I always prefer in-person education over distance learning, but given the circumstances, it was really lucky to be able to make the switch. It was also a bit of a blessing in disguise, because I’m now fully location-independent. This will allow me to travel much more freely after the pandemic while still earning a steady income.

I stayed in the city of São Paulo from January to April. Social distancing was fine there, but I lived in a small rented room in a house that had other tenants, so I was always a bit nervous that someone might be COVID-positive and spread it to everyone in the house. On May 1st, I decided to relocate to the city of Santos and move into a studio apartment.

Santos is still in the state of São Paulo located about a 90-minute drive south of the metropolis. Despite being one of the most important shipping ports in South America, Santos feels much quieter and more relaxing than São Paulo city. It’s been the perfect place to self-isolate because the city has miles of oceanfront walkways that have generally not been crowded.

This post is not going to claim to be a comprehensive guide to the city for travelers post-lockdown. All main attractions are closed right now, including the city’s collection of historical and maritime museums. But since I imagine the number of foreigners who’ve decided to stick it out in Brazil is quite low, I thought it might be interesting to document what it’s been like here. This post will start with a section on everyday life in quarantine in Brazil, then move on to the parts of Santos I have been able to enjoy despite the widespread closures. Let’s dive right in!

Life In Quarantine

The Situation on the Ground, As I See It

I’ll start off by giving some opinions on what I’m seeing here in terms of the virus response. As many people probably know, Bolsonaro has received a fair amount of criticism for not acting quickly enough and taking the pandemic seriously. The numbers don’t paint a pretty picture for Brazil at the time being. While I’m skeptical that the official case count will ever surpass the United States (due to lack of testing here and due to the fact that the US is reopening despite not having flattened the curve), Brazil is already second in the world for confirmed cases.

Like in the United States, there have been protesters here decrying lockdown and demanding that the economy reopen (who are not abiding by social distancing standards, as shown in the video below). However, there have also been protests in opposition to Bolsonaro, which involve residents banging pots and pans or otherwise making as much noise as possible while leaning out open windows and demanding Bolsonaro’s resignation and/or impeachment. Political polarization is no stranger to this country, which in many ways shares similarities to the US.

Although Brazil hasn’t given a date for a proposed reopening, lockdown measures here seem to be somewhat lax. In São Paulo, many businesses that were definitely not essential remained open (for example, chocolate boutiques and protein powder shops). I’ve heard that Brazilians have yet to receive anything akin to stimulus checks, but that may have changed recently.

My Daily Routine

I’ve found that I’ve settled into a pretty set quarantine routine. I usually teach in the mornings and then make lunch (more on food below). As long as the weather is good, I go for a walk in the afternoon. Since this is basically the one time per day I get to be active, I typically walk at least two miles and have even made it up to eight or nine miles in a day. It’s easy to walk for hours without getting bored because of the beautiful ocean views!

By the time I get home, it’s usually already late enough in the afternoon to start thinking about dinner. If I need to, I go over to the nearest supermarket to pick up ingredients. Evenings are typically spent relaxing, watching movies, browsing social media, or playing Animal Crossing (the classic Gamecube version on a PC emulator).

Cooking: My Latest Obsession

Has anyone else’s life started revolving around food since they started social distancing? For me, it’s basically been a journey from knowing nothing about cooking (and also really disliking it) to embracing it and learning to play around with different flavors.

My go-to meals have included fried rice, yakisoba, pasta, and ravioli. Anything that can incorporate as many food groups as possible will float my boat, which is why something like fried rice is so great. You can basically chop up and throw in any veggies you might have in the fridge, and it’s bound to be delicious. It’s also fun to experiment with different spices like clove, peppercorn, curry powder, garlic, and chili sauces.

My apartment only has a mini-fridge with a tiny freezer compartment, so I’ve been forced to be creative and not just buy a bunch of frozen TV dinners. I also don’t have an oven, so I’ve been sadly deprived of things like pizza. Overall though, I think this has resulted in a much healthier diet than if I could just stock up on more junky alternatives.

Mitigation Measures

In general, only grocery stores are guaranteed to be open. Some restaurants are open for takeout and delivery, but many have just closed until further notice. I don’t really see a lot of people ordering takeout, so I think the restaurant industry has been hit hard here, especially since Santos is a resort town.

The beach has also been closed since I arrived. Sometimes the sidewalks near the water will have some metal barriers in place, but most people who are out for a stroll just walk around them. It’s not totally clear if those sidewalks are officially off-limits or not, but enforcement of any such rule seems like it’s not really a thing.

One thing I really appreciate is that masks are required while walking in public or to enter grocery stores. An employee won’t allow anyone into the supermarket without a mask, and although enforcement of mask-wearing outside isn’t super strict, I’d say well over 95% of people are wearing a face covering of some sort. Masks are widely available and can cost as little as 50 cents (USD). There are a variety of styles including reusable cloth masks and single-use disposable ones. I’ve even seen people wearing those plastic face shields when out and about, so people seem to have embraced this easy and affordable way to help mitigate virus spread.

More About Santos

As I mentioned before, this post is not designed to be a comprehensive guide to this seaside city. With most things still closed, I have basically only gotten to see a silhouette of the city. Nonetheless, I’ve still been able to enjoy the beautiful waterfront and will showcase it here.

The Waterfront

Beaches

Santos has a wide, flat, sandy beach that stretches from one end of the city’s southern coastline to the other. It has been strictly off-limits for the month of May and therefore been empty. However, I’ve read that the water here isn’t known for being super clean, so although walking along the beach is lovely, I’m not sure that I’d want to swim in the water even if it was open.

Waterfront Parks

A strip of green space that hugs the coast for multiple miles separates the beaches from the city blocks. Each section of this park has different statues, fountains, artwork, and monuments, which are interesting to check out.

Another thing I love about Santos is the prevalence of calçada portuguesa. This type of mosaic sidewalk can be found in Portugal as well as in other former-colonies around the world.

Basílica Menor de Santo Antônio do Embaré

This large cathedral across from the beach is the most notable in the city I’ve seen so far. It’s been closed, so I haven’t been inside, but I’ve still been able to appreciate its exterior every time I walk by.

Praça das Bandeiras

This plaza features all of the state flags of Brazil (I think), as well as a fountain and a historical model of a streetcar.

Praia do Itararé & Ilha Porchat
(Itararé Beach & Porchat Island)

This beach is technically in the neighboring town of São Vicente, but it’s within walking distance of Santos if you continue to go west along the water. It’s huge, and the sand looks a little more black here than on the beaches of Santos.

If you walk all the way down the far end of Praia do Itararé, you’ll eventually find yourself at Ilha Porchat (Porchat Island). This small piece of land is connected via a single road, so it doesn’t require a ferry to get to. Isla Porchat looks very luxurious and exclusive, being home to only a few very tall skyscrapers that I’m sure offer amazing panoramic views. I’ve ventured over once, but haven’t explored the island in depth.

Sunsets

Santos offers some amazing sunsets (at least from the far east end where I’ve been staying, called Ponta da Praia). Even if I’ve had a pretty lazy day indoors, I’ll typically go out for a few minutes to see the sunset with the beach only a few minutes away from my apartment.

Weather

The weather in Santos in May has generally been good, although sunny days aren’t always guaranteed. There was one day where it rained pretty heavily and the oceanfront drive flooded for about a day after that (see video below). In general, the weather has been pretty nice and comfortable though.

Things I Missed Due to Social Distancing

Since the city is home to a massive international shipping port, there are a lot of historical museums that I haven’t been able to visit. There’s even a coffee museum, which I’m really bummed about! (Coffee was a major factor in Brazil’s historical growth and economic development, which is why the museum is located here, where it was shipped abroad.)

There are also ferry services to the city of Guarujá on the other side of the Estuário de Santos river. These have actually been operational even now since many people use them to commute, but I’ve avoided them because I don’t want to contribute to additional crowding there.

Is Santos worth a visit after the pandemic?

If São Paulo is on your wish list for 2021 or beyond, and you plan to spend a week or more there, a day trip or overnight stay in Santos could be a great way to see more than just the city. However, it should be noted that Santos isn’t even considered one of Brazil’s best beaches, so if that’s what you’re after, I’ve heard that many of the beaches in the north of the country are spectacular.

I was warned by my former landlord in São Paulo to watch out for pickpockets in Santos, but so far I’ve never felt like someone was trying to take anything from me. That might be because there are no tourists here due to lockdown (plus it’s low season right now), but if you eventually want to visit, just keep that in mind. He recommended always staying in places with other people nearby. If you plan to mainly enjoy the waterfront, there will always be enough other people out walking and biking to discourage pickpockets (even under current circumstances).

What's Next For Me

With the virus continuing to spread in Brazil, I expect to be here for at least the next three months. I recently purchased a ticket from Rio de Janeiro to Lisbon for mid-August because it was super cheap, but I’m well aware that I may not be able to leave Brazil (or enter the EU) at that time and may have to stay longer. Nonetheless, I do plan to slowly work my way over to Rio and continue social distancing until the curve is sufficiently flattened.

How has social distancing been for you? Is your country opening back up, or remaining closed? What do you think the next few months will look like? Leave a comment and let me know! I’m curious about how other travel enthusiasts are feeling about their current situations. Thanks for reading, and welcome back!

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This post was published on May 23, 2020

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Should You Visit República, São Paulo’s Rough-And-Tumble City Center?

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 11 Mar 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Should You Visit República, São Paulo’s Rough-And-Tumble City Center?

Published March 11, 2020

The answer is yes, and this post will tell you how. República is one of three neighborhoods that make up the core of São Paulo (the other two being Sé and Centro Histórico). It’s home to some of the city’s most famous architectural attractions that you simply shouldn’t miss. At the same time, it may not necessarily feel as safe as most of the areas I’ve written about so far in São Paulo 360, a blog series about neighborhoods in the city.

In fact, República is a striking mix of incredibly ornate architecture and modern-day poverty. Homelessness and substance abuse are problems that affect many parts of São Paulo, but the former is especially visible in República. However, this shouldn’t scare you away from visiting the area as long as you exercise common sense.

I’ve divided this post into three main parts. If you consider yourself a novice traveler, you’ll want to read part one. Travelers who think they’d be comfortable exploring a bit more of República are addressed in part two. And if you’re a truly adventurous traveler, check out part three. Further suggestions and safety tips can be found after that (including one no-go zone). So without further ado…

Part I

For Novice Travelers

If what you’ve read about República so far is a bit of a turn-off, I totally get it. However, the neighborhood is home to one landmark that every visitor to São Paulo should see before leaving: Edifício Copan (The Copan Building). Located on Avenida Ipiranga, it’s very easy to Uber to and from if you’re concerned about safety.

Designed by famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer in the 1950s, this gargantuan S-shaped residential building is possibly the most famous structure in the city (if not the entire country). Edifício Copan has appeared in billion-plus views music videos and the popular Netflix series Black Mirror. Its ground floor is a modest shopping center open to the public, but the most impressive thing about it is its unique design and size.

At the time of writing (March 2020), rooftop tours of Copan are currently suspended to prevent possible spread of coronavirus (according to one unofficial source). Luckily, there’s another observation deck that’s open on a neighboring skyscraper: the Edifício Itália, shown in the two pictures below.

Admittedly, the view of Copan from the Edifício Itália observation deck isn’t amazing. There are large glass panes which prevent visitors from seeing the curvy building in its entirety.

Nonetheless, I highly recommend visiting because the views of the rest of the city from Edifício Itália are amazing. It’s impossible to comprehend how insanely big São Paulo is without seeing the skyline from an observation deck like this. An endless sea of white concrete skyscrapers extends as far as the eye can see in every direction.

In order to go up to the Terraço Itália on the 41st floor of Edifício Itália, you can eat in the restaurant (which looks quite expensive) or pay 35 BRL to visit the bar and order a drink (which are quite expensive in the neighborhood of 45 BRL per, so a minimum per person of 70 BRL). The cheapest and easiest way to visit is to pay 30 BRL to visit the outdoor terrace, which includes a free glass of wine.

As I mentioned earlier, you can easily take an Uber to and from the Edifício Itália (which has a ground-floor lobby with attendants where you can wait indoors). This is a great way to visit the observation deck especially at night, which is open until 11:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. depending on the day of the week. If you’re interested in seeing what else República has to offer and don’t mind exploring its biggest avenues on foot, read on!

Part II

For Middle-of-the-road Travelers
(Be sure to check out Part I as well!)

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Consolação

This massive stone church is located just a short walk down Avenida Ipiranga from Edifício Copan. It has both an incredible exterior and a beautiful interior with a stunning painting on the ceiling depicting angels in heaven.

Theatro Municipal de São Paulo

Built in 1911, the stunning Theatro Municipal is both a historical relic and an architectural icon of the city. It currently houses São Paulo’s symphony orchestra and is located here.

I’ve yet to take a tour, but a sign in the lobby indicated that tours are offered at 11:00, 16:00, and 17:00 on Tuesdays and 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:00, and 17:00 on Wednesdays and Fridays. The lobby also has a fancy-looking restaurant that offers a (fairly expensive) lunch buffet Mondays to Fridays.

República’s Nicest Avenues

The triangle formed by Avenida Ipiranga, Rua da Consolação, and Avenida São Luís is arguably the most upscale part of República. If you choose to walk this short loop, you’ll see beautiful green trees as well as a lot of calçada portuguesa (Portuguese pavement), a specific type of distinctive white and black stones that can be found in former colonies of Portugal around the world (as well as in Portugal itself).

Most of the area’s most impressive architecture is also located within and around this small triangle.

Eat

República is home to many typical Brazilian restaurants, but there are also a couple of interesting ones. My favorite burger place in the city is located here. The offerings at Holy Burger are delicious, and the decor inside is unique as well.

I also found the fanciest hot dog I’ve ever seen at Hot Pork, located almost across the street from Edifício Copan. The view of Copan from the restaurant is more panoramic than what you’ll see if you try to look straight up at it from the street it’s on.

I also like Modernista Coffee Stories, which has an especially chic and green dining area.

Part III

For Adventurous Travelers
(Be sure to check out Part I & II as well!)

Visit an art and antique market in Praça da República on Sunday

Praça da República (República Plaza) is one part of the neighborhood that isn’t super nice. This green space has a fair number of loiterers, and I would say there’s not anything too special about it on most days of the week.

However, on Sundays the plaza hosts an art and antique market that was interesting to wander through. There was an incredible variety of artwork for sale with a lot of vibrant colors. For whatever reason, many of the stalls selling antiques seemed to specialize in rare coins and bills (presumably Brazilian).

The adjacent Antiga Escola Normal Caetano de Campos also had some public performances as well as multiple street food vendors, so I picked up a delicious lunch of noodles and tempura.

You might be wondering: what’s so adventurous about an art market? Well, República is pretty quiet on Sundays. It’s not a complete ghost town, but most businesses will be closed and the streets will have fewer people. In my opinion, crowds are generally safer in Brazil than the lack thereof.

If you want to visit the Sunday art market without walking all over the neighborhood, the metro will drop you off right on Praça da República.

The Gallery of Rock and surrounding alleys

The most grungy part of República is the series of pedestrian walkways centered at the intersection of Rua Barão de Itapetininga and Rua Dom José de Barros. It’s not an unsafe area during the day and in fact is home to many shops and restaurants. Since it can get fairly crowded though, you’ll definitely want to keep track of your phone, wallet, and other personal belongings here.

The most notable shopping center here is the Galeria do Rock, which is home to multiple floors of rock- and grunge-themed stores. Home to record stores, eateries, tattoo and piercing parlors, and (for some reason) a lot of tee shirt printing shops, the unique theme of the Gallery of Rock matches its urban surroundings almost perfectly.

From street level, the unique design of the building is eye-catching even if you aren’t sure what it is. Its upper levels also offer great views, especially of the yellow church (Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Homens Pretos) pictured below located in the adjacent Largo do Paiçandu plaza.

And while you’re here, you might as well go check out the interior of the church if it’s open. The pastel blues, yellows, and pinks adorning the sanctuary of this historically black church give it a more inviting vibe than the city’s more massive cathedrals.

Go hunting for pixação

Pixação (also known as pixo) is a unique type of graffiti that is specifically Brazilian. Inspired by heavy metal album art from the 1980s, pixo almost looks like a foreign language. Its historical ties to socioeconomic inequality are fascinating (read more here).

As a form of protest, pixadores (pixo artists who are often from poor, distant suburbs) have targeted buildings in the center of the city that were traditionally occupied by the wealthy and powerful. That’s why pixação is so common in República, the part of the city center that used to be home to the elite.

Pixo is often scrawled onto seemingly impossible surfaces, like flat sides of tall buildings. Can you imagine how someone physically made it up there to paint, presumably under the cover of darkness because the act is a criminal offense?

Even though these are the most impressive examples of pixo, it can be found on surfaces high and low throughout República (in addition to other graffiti and street art). I recommend keeping an eye out for it!

Additional Tips

No-Go Zones

República is unfortunately next to São Paulo’s infamous ‘Cracolândia.’ As the name suggests, this part of the city is known for rampant drug use. It’s safe to say that you shouldn’t wander over, day or night. According to this website, ‘Crackland’ is roughly defined by “R. Mauá in the north, Av. São João in the south, Av. Dq. de Caxias in the west and Av. Ipiranga in the east.” In terms of neighborhoods defined by Google Maps, this corresponds with the two areas known as Campos Elíseos and Santa Efigênia.

The most important thing to remember if you’re visiting República is to stay south of Avenida São João. No attraction mentioned in this post is north of this major road.

Other Tips

As I’ve suggested earlier, São Paulo is best explored during the day. This doesn’t mean you can’t ever go out at night, but it does mean that you’ll need to exercise additional caution after dark. República is an area I personally wouldn’t walk in at night. Uber fares are quite cheap in Brazil so there’s no reason to risk your safety just to save a few dollars.

In addition to staying alert and watching out for your personal belongings, I would say it might be better to leave your camera at your hotel or Airbnb on the day you visit República. I haven’t tried to bring mine here, but I think that a large camera would attract a lot of attention that a smartphone wouldn’t.

In fact, every photo on this post was shot on my Google Pixel 3, which has a truly amazing camera. As a full-time traveler, the Pixel 3 is an amazing choice for getting crystal clear shots without having to risk having my nice camera snatched. If you’re interested in purchasing a Pixel 3 via Amazon, click here.

Conclusion

All travelers have a certain tolerance for risk, which is why I wanted to write this post with three different types of travelers in mind. As someone who has been forcibly robbed while traveling, I know what it’s like to be afraid of an unfamiliar place. I’m also always prepared for the chance of being pickpocketed (for example, by only carrying one or two bank cards and a small amount of cash).

In the end, República really isn’t that scary of a place. It’s seen better days, but it’s also seen worse days. As long as you stay alert and use common sense, a visit to this unique part of São Paulo should be an enjoyable part of your trip. Have you been to República? If not, how much exploring would you be willing to do? Let me know in the comments below!

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This post was published on Mar 11, 2020

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Tips For Visiting Vila Madalena, Home Of São Paulo’s ‘Batman Alley’

Kevin | Caffeinated Excursions — Wed, 04 Mar 2020 03:00:00 +0000

Tips For Visiting Vila Madalena, Home Of São Paulo’s ‘Batman Alley’

Published March 4, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

If you’re planning a trip to São Paulo, you’ll definitely want to check out Beco do Batman (Batman Alley), one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. The alley was named after a single mural of the famous DC Comics character that was painted onto one of its walls back in the 1980s. That, in turn, prompted other artists to paint nearby surfaces, and now the entire area is one of the most colorful, decorated areas in the city.

Beco do Batman actually sits at the intersection of multiple neighborhoods including Pinheiros, Vila Madalena, and the smaller residential area known as Jardim das Bandeiras. Since Pinheiros and Vila Madalena are fairly large areas, this post will focus on a three or four block radius surrounding the famous alley.

This post is a part of São Paulo 360, a blog series dedicated to sharing the city’s best neighborhoods with adventurous travelers such as yourself! To read about some other interesting areas to explore in the city, click here!

Points of Interest

Beco do Batman

This is the main attraction in Vila Madalena! Batman Alley is a short pedestrian walkway that starts here on Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque and ends here on Rua Harmonia. The narrow cobblestone alleyway is home to some of the city’s best street art. I’m not sure if this is the original Batman that inspired everything else, but the most prominent one today is located here and shown in the picture below.

One of the best things about Beco do Batman is the incredible variety of styles and topics. However, many of the murals here have an undeniable Batman theme.

Another thing to know is that none of the art here is guaranteed to be permanent. Since there’s a limited amount of space, artists and locals have agreed to allow Batman Alley to constantly be updated with new creations. In fact, I visited Beco do Batman three times to research and photograph for this post, and some of the artwork featured here is already painted over.

Most of what’s on display is fun and light, but other murals are quite complex or heavy. Since Beco do Batman is so small, it only takes a couple minutes to explore, even at a leisurely pace. I recommend taking some time to really think about what each artist was trying to say. For example, the piece below delivers a critical message. What might it be about?

Restaurants and Bars

As a popular tourist area that reminds me a little bit of El Caminito in Buenos Aires, Beco do Batman and the surrounding areas have a nearly endless supply of bars and restaurants to choose from. If you’re having trouble choosing one, consider Café Madeira located right on the intersection of the alley and Rua Harmonia.

I especially recommend Café Madeira if you haven’t had a chance to try a Brazilian per-kilo restaurant. You’ll find a large buffet-style area with dozens of dishes where you can pile on as much or as little as you want. You then weigh your plate at the cashier and pay per kilogram of food. It’s one of my favorite ways to eat in Brazil because you can get so much variety in one meal! Plus, as long as you’re careful, you can get just as much food as you want without having to throw any leftovers away.

Cafes

One thing I don’t love about São Paulo is its relative lack of cafes. Luckily, Vila Madalena is home to a couple of unique ones. The first one I’ll mention is located at the intersection of Batman Alley and Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque. RomeoRomeo Cafe is the kind of place that reminds me of my favorite coffee houses in caffeine-loving cities such as Seattle and Saigon.

When I went, I just had to try their coffee with orange juice because of how unique that concoction was. It actually wasn’t bad! I’d say it tasted like a watered-down cold brew with a subtle orange flavor.

The other cafe in the area I like is a bit of a walk from Beco do Batman. Coffee Lab has an inviting yet industrial vibe, and this is the kind of place that attracts both tourists and expats as well as locals. If you need help ordering, staff here speak English. It’s also a good place to sit down and login to a laptop as long as it’s not too crowded.

Cemitério São Paulo

This is the least touristy thing on my list, but I’m still including it here because I found it completely fascinating. This massive cemetery only one block south of Beco do Batman has tons of graves dating back to the 1800s, and many of them are incredibly ornate. It was also interesting to see a lot of Japanese surnames on the engravings, which is a testament to how long immigrants from Japan have lived in the city.

Despite being very close to one of the most touristy areas in the city, the Cemitério São Paulo was almost completely empty when I went. It’s open to the public, but it was devoid of Instagrammers and the like. If you decide to visit, keep a low profile and know that the few other visitors may be there to pay their respects to deceased loved ones.

Pinheiros and Vila Madalena

Outside of Beco do Batman, these two areas are upscale, residential neighborhoods. There are tons of restaurants and bars, especially in the few blocks to the southwest of Batman Alley. I plan to go back and try a few more, and if any of them are noteworthy I’ll come back and update this post!

tips

When should you visit?

The best time to visit Beco do Batman is on a weekday afternoon! As you might guess, the alley can get pretty crowded on weekends. If your aim is to check out the art and take pictures, then you’ll want to go when no one else is there, which is on weekdays during typical working hours. If you’re more interested in bar hopping, then the weekend or happy hour might be a better choice.

How to Get to Beco do Batman

Batman Alley is conveniently located a short (ten or fifteen minute) walk from the Santuário N.Sra. de Fátima – Sumaré metro station. It’s a slightly farther distance from the Vila Madalena metro stop, or if you’re arriving via the yellow line, you could get off at Fradique Coutinho and walk north for about twenty minutes. Uber is another option.

Are you ready to meet Batman?

As a very walkable, safe, and colorful area, Beco do Batman (and Vila Madalena in general) is the perfect place to spend a sunny afternoon in São Paulo! Since street art is one of the city’s most important highlights, you’ll definitely want to go hunting for it, and Beco do Batman is a great place to start! To learn about another part of São Paulo that has a lot of street art, click here.

I’m still deciding what to write about next for São Paulo 360, but I’m leaning towards the neighborhood of República. As the historical center of the city, this neighborhood offers incredible, almost ostentatious colonial architecture that can’t be found elsewhere. However, it’s not the safest place to explore (especially at night), so you may want to spend a few days getting familiar with the city before heading to República.

If you’re interested in learning more, check back in a week or two for the next post in the series! And if you have any questions and comments about Beco do Batman, be sure to leave a comment below! Enjoy your time exploring Vila Madalena!

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This post was published on Mar 4, 2020

This blog post was proudly created without the use of generative AI. It was 100% written and edited by a human, for humans. Enjoy, and thanks for your support!

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Things To Do In Cunha, São Paulo, Brazil: 5 Day Trip Ideas

1. O Lavandário

Stop for lunch or a beer on the way back

2. A Pair of Waterfalls

Cachoeira do Pimenta

Cachoeira do Desterro

A Shiitake Farm

3. Go Even Further Off the Grid...

4. Go For a Hike at Pedra da Macela

5. Aparecida, Home of the Second Largest Church in the World

Is Guaratinguetá worth a visit?

Additional Info

How should you get around?

Where should you stay?

Which day trip do I recommend most?

Cunha: An Amazing Small Town

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Experience Small-Town Brazil in Cunha, A Colorful Village In The Paraíba Valley

Magnificent Views

Mountains

Architecture

Where to see the best views

Old VW Beetles

Churches

Igreja do Rosário e São Benedito

Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição

Igreja Metodista Central em Cunha

The Town Market

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Restaurante Casarão

Restaurante Dona Dita

Restaurante Jeca Grill

Quintal da Cau

Veríssima Bistrô

Bar Reale

Bethlehem Cozinha Artesanal

Local foods

Final notes on restaurants

Gift Ideas

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So... Is There Anything to Actually Do in Cunha?

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The Comprehensive Guide To Aparecida, São Paulo, Brazil

The Largest Church in the Western Hemisphere

The Town's Vibe

Other Points of Interest

Two Smaller Churches

Igreja de São Benedito

Basílica Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição Aparecida (Basílica Velha)

An Adventurous Hike

The Cable Car (Bontur Bondinhos Aéreos)

A Very Brief Food Section

Where I Stayed

Unique Gifts From Aparecida

Closing Tips & Thoughts

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The pedestrian bridge into town
(Passarela da Fé)